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MMI Enterprises

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Posts posted by MMI Enterprises


  1. This one was ugly and thick. Took two strips and major defelting afterwards.

    You know it will be tuff when part is shiny and thick:

    100_2571.jpg

    and other parts are dry and flakey:

    100_2576.jpg

    But don't let the flake fool ya as ya still have to disolve it to get underneith it. The above light brown sections of acrylic still took two strip.

    100_2573.jpg

    100_2575.jpg

    100_2578.jpg

    I threw hydroxide, gylcol, and butyl at it and let dwell 10-15. Helper kept it wet throughout as acrylic luvs to go back solid.

    Scraping through the gunk with a stick to bare wood lets me know when it ready:

    b93dd4d1.jpg

    Got to be ready for piles of goop.. This one filled a fiver:

    100_2589.jpg

    You know ya got it all, or close to all when the wood turns dark from the water and chems getting in the wood:

    100_2584.jpg

    Downside to such aggressive acrylic stripping is likely furring of the wood:

    100_2594.jpg

    Here is after we countersunk the nails with palmnailer and defelted with low speed swing buffer:

    100_2629.jpg

    I won't kid ya none, this job was tuff and there was a tad collateral damage. Lost a little of the solid trim at the house as it was inset lower than deck and the first foot of plants at edge received some goop as well as some needed trampling in order to get in there and stain. Oh and no we did not strip it all off the verticle fascia boards. AC stain followed and worked out for both verticles and horizontal.


  2. Ya forgot pics..here I'll substitute one for ya..lol:

    (edit- nevermind..pics to large and intrusive.)

    Been seeing same thing with high end customers being way too loyal to their high end painters. Eventually the painters have to concede that doing decks is not at all same as painting houses. This last one pictured took two strips and I have no idea exactly what the painter had put on it. Maybe conversion varnish for all I know. He found me and recommended me to the HO which I guess I should be thankful for.


  3. Rick, You get the percentages direct from AC? If there is that much linseed to paraffinic in there it sure doesn't look it. Wonder what the total percentage is that lets it penetrate so well. Overall it pretty much looks absent of solids.

    On the cleanup it can go either way in needing spirits. If ya catch it right away regular cleaner works fine. I spilt a few cup on aggregate and was able to absorb it out with rag and then followed up with purple power. That said, linseed content can be noticed while cleaning lines and buckets. I just know once the stuff dries it is tough stuff.

    In using a sprayer I almost had same result as you did with the house cutting in but quikly noticed that properly triggering off while still in motion prevented puddeling of the pigment. I also went back and backbrushed. I then caught that wet edge just very lightly with same triggering off method standard to spraying most products.

    Last job seemed really thirsty for more pigmentation so I did second and third wet on wet coats of rustic brown to where it all looked evenly wet for a longer time after. Although other jobs took one coat fine with Sierra Redwood and no need for backbrushing I just couldn't leave the Rustic Brown one alone. Coulda been the level of strip I had to give it or, more likely, it coulda been lack of patients on my part as I know these stains need time to settle in and acheive their final color but I kept applying anyways. Mind you I was using the semi trans where as Alan shows us the semi solid. That was more like I was after.

    To be honest I would have to say that AC is not 100% foolproof and can need some backbrushing if more is applied than is supposed to be. There is sticker on lid I believe saying not to overapply though so go figure...


  4. Sounds like moisture underneith or finish lift/pop. In assuming this coating is the solventborne variety, the xylene will fix it or situate it for a proper recoat/touchup. It shouldn't remove it persay. Spray hefty dose early on a cool morning and it will melt the finish allowing moisture to escape or for it to bind to the surface. Parts that don't totally show as fixed should look fine by proper recoat of solventborne acrylic. Removing such solvent coatings are a job for paint removers and lacquer thinner, or grinding, or blasting. Regardless, whether using xylene to fix or harsher stuff to remove, be prepared to give it a good pressure wash to remove any imperfections that might crop up. Can save time by planning the wash for last usually as sometimes it just turns out like new with no need for wash.


  5. Can't say exactly how much it weighs but I throw it in the back of the truck on my own most the time simply due to fact that I don't pull trailer to job sites except for wash days. Not sure I could do that with James' 130lber. Seems about same weight as aircompressor when the boy and I lift either of them in and out. If doing vinyl or concrete jobs with it I just roll it up ramp with the larger scrubbers. This model is a Clark 20" Floor Maintainer. Older and heavier the better I say as the motor will likely be more heavy duty and withstand abuse and torque.


  6. Well, you said the government (assuming the feds, but maybe you meant state and local too) made more money with higher gas price. I mean the whole shootin shabang..and not just consumer sales based/pay at the pump revenue that you seem to be focusing on. Other than the 7 states listed who charge a percentage based tax on gas, the state and federal governments do NOT make more if gas prices go up. Adds up to 47 cent US avg by a sublink of your link: http://api.org/statistics/fueltaxes/upload/Jan08MFTNotes.pdf Old figures mind you.. As I stated earlier, if anything, they make LESS because the higher gas prices go, the less gas people are going to be buying. Who are these people?...People playing or people workin to keep the country workin? If usage has curbed or will be curbed when do we see lower prices? They're going to cut down their usage, which in turn means the feds (and 43 states) receive LESS tax revenue on gas. That only considers the consumer tax and I don't see anything to make me believe the useage is curbed enough to where the 18.4 cent excise loss would outweigh the income tax that is generated.So where is the motivation for the government to encourage, support, promote, etc, higher gas prices? Well I mainly meant that they would not be inclined to act against.

    Where do the state and local governments capitalize off "huge money of the oil/gas industry", other than collecting the same, or less, tax revenut from gas sales that they always have? Consumer/pay at pump is not only tax. You don't seem to want to recognize that the more they make the more they pay on their end which by nature came from us.

    Yes, you live in California, which is one of the states that does charge a percentage based gas tax. So if gas goes up, they make more. Some, and possibly all that increase will be offset by decreased gas sales. No way..sorry to have to disagree.

    If gas consumption stays the same, the federal government collects the exact same gas tax revenue when gas is $4.00/gallon as it would if gas were $40.00/gallon.

    Here is sublink on Earnings from your link:

    EXXON MOBIL CORP - XOM Annual Report (10-K) INCOME STATEMENT

    Again these are old figures before this huge increase..

    If we are to believe the figures of Exxon before the increase it reads that they had over 400 billion in sales, costs of 334 billion, showed income of 70 billion, and paid income TAX of about 30 billion in 2007.

    So since prices are up this year the income tax may goto like 60 billion if they not too brave at doctoring up the write offs. The meat of it is deeper in the numbers though of course on how all that 400 billion was spent. Surely it goes to those in the industry that pay income taxes in round about way. So the money comes out of peoples savings where they already paid tax and it goes into the goobermints hands by being recycled and sucked from us. What the sales be this year for them?.. maybe 800 billion?


  7. Mike, Thanx for them links... I don't see these conversations limited to fed tax or sales tax. Your links aren't helping a case for goobermint entities not capitalizing off the huge money of the gas/oil industry in my opinion especially when I live in Ca where we are paying $4.45+ per gal of gas at the pump. Where you think the price difference between what oil per gal used to be on world market and the current $3.20 goes? It just lines the oil baron/sheiks pocket or do those they beholding to are profiting as well?. We are to think whatever goobermint entities they workin under are gonna let them slide without getting their share?. Or you by chance gonna elude the money is not profit at all but now suddenly goes into R&D or something?. That would be magical. Is all a big game of hide the money, now ya see it now ya don't.. like first it was in our pocket and now it not in anyones pocket.


  8. Just can't see trying to defelt the large flat deck areas with itsy bitsy hand grinder equipment if job suits so we videod another option I've mentioned before..

    This deck furred up pretty bad after removing multiple coats of acrylic. I'll save the strip pics and videos for another thread..

    100_2594.jpg ..still a little wet mind you, but furry none the less

    For a mild defelting we first mounted a mild nylon brush on the 20" machine for mainly the edges.. Helps to have the weight involved of this larger/older Clark model. With this type brush or a more aggressive Nylogrit or Stratagrit brush (Kev's Velvet Elvis) the torque involved to user is substantial so I do no advise for small people.

    [yt]D1_U0yRZQLI[/yt]

    Enter a better option with same machine:

    Enjoy!

    [YT]9U6ApOIrido[/YT]

    We were utilizing what is called a 3m HiPro black pad driven by the brush. They are very open weaved and are the roughest pads made(for wax stripping usually). When new the bite is abit much but since we run them on vinyl or concrete strip jobs abit first we can get away with them on decks. They pretty much mildly sand the floor or knock off the fur real quik. One pad, one 1k sq. ft. deck and it will still do plenty more work. Nails were sunk with palm nailer to be able to use the pad, otherwise ya got to stick with brush.

    When pads are used (and handle adjusted correctly) machine torque is minimized. I would not advise under a 17" machine.

    Con's you ask?..

    1. You must be able to get it on the deck which can be a challenge if there are no walks.

    2. The bigger stronger the motor the more likely you'll flip breakers.

    3. You'll want to use it all the time...

    One defelted deck:

    100_2629.jpg


  9. The amount of government tax on a gallon of gas doesn't change because gas went from $2.50/gallon to $4.00/gallon.

    Last time I heard, taxes paid on products are taxed at a percentage. Some types of tax are even listed on pumps. So until you show some sort of proof negating that I will continue to believe more revenue is going to the goobermint than ever.

    I have no problem with believing what ya say..Just please point us to some sort of proof. Thanx Mike!


  10. So we take every gal sold, divide by every person vested in mutuals, times it by 6 cent, and call them all retired. Guess everyone vested in mutuals will see a 50% profit this year...lol :)

    ps- Joe, not far off the mark....every gal sold equals higher tax profit to goobermints. So why do anything when they just gained what is basically a new commodity/thing to count on?

    Far as what each barrel of oil could make..not sure anyone knows exactly what it could be but I doubt it anything near the figure you heard. A 55 gal drum is 44 gal but oil is based on 42 gal. Oil to Gasoline


  11. Here I'll gripe abit...Some say it all about demand but demand of industrializing coutries such as China and India supposedly driving prices up doesn't make sense to me unless there is shortage of it being available. I heard it said countries or speculators are buying and stock piling it up for profit minded resale at later date and is what is fueling the out of control hikes. Apparently even OPEC is calling for checking things as they know they are bound to loose some their customer base (countries that are gettin the shaft) if too many get on board and decide to dump money into development of alternative energy sources.

    I tired of hearing about demand...there has always been means to keep pricing down of things that are automatically needed by everyone. They (whow ever that is) like to use the word in my opinion to side track us and belittle the real issue of pockets getting lined with big fat money. Another way of saying "demand" can be that there is "competition to be a customer" and that in my my mind makes no sense if the oil be flowing. And we all know it is, isn't it??.. In considering the word "competition" it may automatically remind some folk that the word most usually applies to compettion on a seller/producer end. I say there are forces at work that are meant to eny us a right to blaim the seller/producers. The oil industry surely has things aligned in a monopoly type plan and some fat pig goobermint entities have no reason to even try and fix the sudden pricing hike, which is a shock and very burdensome to many, when their pockets or their main constituants pockets are getting filled.

    Our country as well as other countries are dropping the ball in that not only should being more self sufficient be on agenda but also some sort of revamp/adjustment of the oil industry in general that changes the obvious monopoly situation going on.

    Anyone ever hear of the big oil demand countries considering a get together/coalition effort to do something?. Like yea right.. the leaders and folks with money are just redistributing the money towards their own pockets and have no reason to do anything different for the masses at this point when there is plenty of middle class bank accounts and retirements still full of money. I don't hesitate to say that there is plenty of folks that gas prices just don't effect as much as it does others. Not only do some such folk not even drive much but they don't care if they will have to pay abit more for distributed and manufactured items. The fat cats holding all the cards been purposely moving things in general offshore setting the people of the United States up into dependacy relationships for years and years. The plan is all coming together to rake people over the fire and suck America dry of its great wealth which was built off homebased ingenuity and oil. We got to bring it home people, we got to rid the red tape, we have to declare war on energy devolpment and keeping our own house in order...sorry for being so long, more to say but dinner calls..


  12. Thanx Scott..

    Dan I view it as such.. is similar to when I shoot my vinyl floor stripper over other stuff that didn't quite cut the mustard. First stuff softens and gets it going then the secondary stuff along with water kicks it over to emulsion. My suppliers always stress that ya got to have enough water for it to happen. Is not unlike when yer trying to disolve a chem and ya have to get to the saturation point.. :)


  13. Hi MJ,

    Hello,

    I live in the Des Moines area, and my deck is on the north side of the house. The deck is approximately 2 years old, and constructed of cedar (beams, handrails, and spindles), composite (decking), and pt (joists and posts). The deck has never been stained nor sealed. Of course, the cedar has grayed (see pictures). I wish to clean, stain, and seal the cedar and PT. The composite just needs a light cleaning, and I do not want to stain or seal the composite. The deck has approximately 80 linear feet of hand railing.

    I have been reading through these forums and others, and would like to get some advice on products to use, and opinions on what I think the process should include. In general, I would opt for less caustic/toxic/potentially harmful options. Here is my plan so far:

    1) Clean using a percarbonate based solution.

    Since there is no previous stain or sealant, this type of cleaner should suffice, correct? Should be fine. Any recommendations on a particular product (EFC-38, RAD, wood deck cleaner from the chemistry store, other)? Goto closest bulk chem supply and buy the percarb..some tsp not a bad option neither if ya keep it on wood (lowes or chem supplier)

    Do I need to use a pressure washer to wash off the solution? Would be best...need decent gpm up past 3gpm though to be speedy though and ya gotta do math and change tip orifice sizing to be at only 500-1200 psi depending on softness of wood.Would a hose and brush work? People try, then they call a pro with tools. I’m unsure if it is required or just easier/faster with a pressure washer. I believe it required to do job the best as well as fast.

    2) Brighten.

    Can I just use citric acid or a mixture, and what product would you recommend (citralic, RAD, or straight citric acid from chem. store)?straight citric from the bulk chem supplier works for me and is safer than oxalic. Mixes involving both, such as citralic, are good but citric again is safer.

    Oxalic is better for removing nail bleads or other stains but some feel it can leave wood color unnaturally too light. When staining it doesn't matter. I tend to like a light colored canvas to work off for everything I resurface. So it comes down to situations, protections, and personal preferrance.

    How dry must the wood be before starting this step? In other words, how long must I wait between cleaning and brightening? No wait

    Do you wash off the brightener or just let it dry? conflicting opinions here...wood stains may do better if going on an acidic surface but their color can also be tainted at some level from acids or bleaches.. I call it a minor concern and usually been leaving it. As water evaps the acid concentration can go up and give lighter look. In the concrete field it has been said that the sun works on the oxalic and make crete whiter as the days go by.

    3) Stain and seal.

    I’ve spent considerable time searching on various options. I’ve used a linseed oil base product on a fence before, and it turned into a nightmare. That's what ya call too much resin, no mildewcide, or incorrect prep.I’ve helped friends strip other types of solid stain and waxy horror shows; thus, I want to choose a quality product. Acrylics forming too much topical coat with no penetrating oils or long oils involved can make for unfun..:)

    Obviously, I am looking for something that holds up well, but also will not be a huge project for subsequent maintenance or removal. I would like a light stain with a color similar to natural cedar with a little more red. As examples, Ready Seal med red or Wood Tux western cedar. I suggest a combo type product such as Woodrich (woodtux+timberoil) that consists of both oil and resin to lock it in. Another product coming on strong is Armstrong-Clark that I been using lately.

    I have been leaning towards Wood Tux, or Ready Seal because they seem to be of high quality, the general consensus is positive, and they seem to have the fewest failures.My understanding that RS requires total drenching to have chance past a couple year. This may or may not be a concern for you. Many other products are single coat.On another forum, Wood Tux was being discouraged because of difficulties in application (some parts shiny others parts dull). Can Wood Tux be properly applied by a homeowner? What is the process?Yes it can, just can't over do it by going past using a single coat or not backbrushing the areas that aren't penetrating.

    What other stain/sealers would you recommend?

    Another general question I have is if I can apply the cleaner, brightener, and sealer with brushes or pads. It is very windy in my area, and if I use a sprayer, I would have to cover a large area of the house on two sides of the deck, and two levels. Also, given that I am only doing handrails and the support structure, spraying would be rather wasteful. Well after you start using the washer you will realize you'll want to clean everything. The cleaner is gonna leak all over deck composite anyways so just brush it on everywhere after doing a test area. As professionals we use various sprayers and are informed on what can be used in them safely so I can't in good conscience tell you to go that route with raw chems. Only if you go wth a readymade product can you use a spray method. Always follow manufacture recommendation. Such could be an airless or a pumpup garden type sprayer, etc..

    Plan on sealing the composite with what the manufacture recommends.

    Good Luck!

    Sorry, for the long post, and I appreciate any advice or comments. Thanks,

    MJ

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