Jump to content

MMI Enterprises

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content count

    3,057

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Posts posted by MMI Enterprises

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Seems like the beating of an old dead horse. Guess we got to turn Ron into glue since he can't spell. :p

    Nah..here some advice perhaps worth noting..

    Maybe we learn the words acceptance, compassion, and go drink beer.. :)

    That said.. Hey Ronny boy, yer spelling and sentance composure sucks worse than a dyslexic monkey hooked on phonics!!

    Well it for sure worse than my own or I'm drunk from fruity wine coolers. :lgsideway

  2. Posted · Edited by MMI Enterprises · Report reply

    Can someone let me know what angle tip and their distance to the ground the Hydrotek's are working best?

    I bought the gut parts (bar and swivel) to stick in my DIY surfacer and apparently they too close to ground. Is striping and runnin pretty rough as if the spin is cuttin through water. The bar was bending more than my hand made pipe bar I been using and was hitting the shroud. Had to stick swivel up from underneith....Looks like I got to go shop for larger castors and or do some shimming. Would help if I had some stock measurements to go off. If someone could run a straightedge across their castors and then measure up to tip that should suffice..thanx!

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Matt, I have one of those about a year now. Use it on the vehicles and wood all time and, knock on wood, it hasn't broken yet. Is trial and error going there though. Last two things that didn't last was a pump and a pneumatic air chisel.

    Rick, I guess since it pretty much fact then I'd be showing that 20 year old up pretty good then..haha :) But regardless of usefullness of a swing machine buffer setup on open areas it has been my experience that younger folk are not at all conditioned or experienced enough to do many chores as fast as someone that has done it their whole life.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    God God Brian, yer lucky yer still around!!. Likewise as others I have almost stepped off into bad situations...worst I suffered from my cleaning career was a dislocated toe almost two decades back from running around a counter while doing floors. I kicked into a wall pretty hard. It was totally backwards in my shoe while finishing the job. A chiro xrayed it and but just said he couldn't touch it. Hours later I froze it and then clicked it back in.

    But man..broken elbows??.. you musta felt useless. Hope that guy paid ya and sent flowers.

  9. Posted · Edited by MMI Enterprises · Report reply

    Hi Brian...can't help to ask how ya broke both elbow and whether it involved washing chores or not..yikes!..Dude I know it must hurt and all and is rather at your expense but I can't help chuckling at imagining how that went down...I mean were you trying to pressure wash while roller blading or what? :).. ahh never mind... I find humor in every thing.

    I wish you the best at getting well and at washing!

    ps- I suggest taking a break (no pun) and or just strapping the thing down during transportation. No reason ya can't just leave it in back of truck all the time that way if you already have enough hosing and reals.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Do you have schematic to know and see how the electric loop works? Have you gained access to the fuel nozzle area..doing so can easily confirm fuel and spark?

    Some ya can drop the spark transformer, yank fuel nozzle, and rig quikly enough for a test firing...BUT really there are other ways to confirm things. Like you can put hand up top to see if blower is turning. If it is upon trigger pull then you generally have a complete circuit going through the spark igniters and such also pretty much eliminates flow or pressure switches too. What that would imply is you got no fuel coming out nozzle due to nozzle clog, line/filter clog, or broken fuel solinoid or fuel pump. Comes down to deduction but I certainly wouldn't go buying parts and stabbing at it...For instance, rather than waiting on a fuel filter just unhook brass line going from fuel pump to the igniters and aim it into a jar to see what ya get.

    Here is generic schematic:

    typicalburnerwiring.jpg

  11. Posted · Report reply

    TSP could get you in trouble..as you may know it really really cleans and but it also really really can etch a paint job to prepare it for new coating. Can also leave nice film on wndows..

    Listen to Ken..nothing better than using something made to not harm a finish or wax job yet still clean and rinse well..

  12. Posted · Edited by MMI Enterprises · Report reply

    Make sure thermostat is up.

    Check to make sure the little reed thing on the flow/pressure switch is not loose and not sliding in and out from vibrations. Don't mean to scare ya but, Make sure blower is blowing when it does fire and but goes off when not firing as the blower usually mechanically powers the fuel pump. If the fuel solinoid is miswired it may be activated without the igniter prongs firing. IMHO any machine wired as such would be an accident waiting to happen as you can have fuel flooding your whole boiler making for an ugly sight once the ignition issue is fixed. Remember this is only IF machine is wired incorrectly...Just the same I would stop spraying with heater circuitry in the 'on' position until your sure the blower is not blowing and solinoid not activated.

    So anyways, you can bypass the flow or pressure switches temporarily or anything else electricaly in the loop until you figure out which is causing issue. If your really stressed for time take it to a shop.

    Could be electical things specific to that machine but really sounds like a sporadic switch or fuel nozzle/spark prong adjustment situation to me.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Not sure these pics of the Rubermade catalog can be read but maybe it help:

    100_2425.jpg

    100_2426.jpg

    I show the micro applicators for acrylic floor finish as they may transfer directly to the wood staining. Again, probably depends on what it made of and whether they can handle spirits cleanup.

    btw..for thin waterborne floor acrylics I really need to switch over to the microfiber. I feel like an old dinosaur or something in using mops. I hear there is no comparison between a synthetic rayon mop head or loop ended applicator and an 18" micro. I really did not care for my first experience with the loop ended version of applicator as it was too heavy and took a lot of product to get it going. Was sorta like using a wet dust mop basically. Lambs wool was always silly too if not using specialty finishes.

    My janitorial supplier is pushing another brand on me though rather than rubbermade that supposedly levels and flows out product more predictably. Replacement pads are in $7 range and the handle/pad holder setup runs about $50. There is a rectangular bucket on wheels with a screen installed to push out excess product but unsure if it would handle solvent or not. On flat floors ya can just pour out a beed of product from container..can't do that with staining planks.

  15. Posted · Edited by MMI Enterprises · Report reply

    Yea I melted a cheap walmart one with spirits. Plastic bristles just shriveled up. Them china bristle in the paint brushes for oil don't do that. Although I have deco crete supplier just up street that I work for on occassion I've neglected to note what type bristle is on their finishing tools. I would imagine the norm would be an organic bristle like found on the better push brooms. I'll go take a pic of what I got..

    ps- Ok..on left is the 4" china for oil from Ace that has the screw off handle, then the gunfighter cut in brush that I really luv. On right is cheap melted vehicle brush and I threw in what I think was a latex brush that I obviously muffed up by using it for oil.

    100_2418.jpg

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Been weeks now since some souped up stripper went through some dumb Body Gloves I was using while mixing. I threw the glove off and rinsed within seconds but it didn't matter. Wrist looked horrible and eaten at and was about the size of a silver dollar within a day or two. Now it just a little flaky and tingles abit. After said and done the scar is gonna be about dime sized so I lucked out.

    Now more importantly I wonder about the foot issues mentioned above. First off is there or can there be anything to idea of toxins making their way down to the feet rather than just footwear and moisture issues being to blaim?. Could it be that things breathed or ingested end up there. Maybe we've all seen that infomercial product where ya attach these films onto yer feet overnight and they pull out all the toxins? My first impression was that it is bogus and that it is just dead skin cells coming out peoples feet but then again I have heard that fingernails and hair are parts of the body that hold concentrated stuff the body wants ot get rid of... maybe there is something to this whole gravity/feet/toxin thing...

    My issue is that on one arch of my foot I have had severe itch that didn't involve any redness on the outer skin. Started maybe a month back. It was like internal up until just the other day. Although the itch has died down quite abit, now there is an ever so slight pealing/blistering going on. Is odd that there is no inflamation or redness. WTH do I got? Around time this came up I don't remember having wet feet from pressure washing or from stripping floors. I wear waders while washing actually. The one main thing that correlates is that about a week prior I intoxicated myself with some solventborne acrylic. Had forgotten my respirator during second coating a deco floor..gotta admit it was not a smart situation and I muffed up bad.

    Any ideas?..maybe I should goto doctor and hope lamasil is all I need.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    HD-80 has a great surfactant package. Don't need to boost it for Penofin.

    Have you stripped Penofin with HD-80? I have not taken Penofin off with F-18, but I still would bet you don't need to boost it. I know for a fact you don't need to with HD-80.

    Beth

    Nope Beth..I don't use it.

    Since it "has a great surfactant package" your, by logic, adding a 'boost/surfactant' each time you reapply it to keep it wet..aka-"keeping it wet w/ product". Regardless if talking acrylics or oil the usual is that just keeping wet with mist or water spray for longer dwell is sufficient. By the very fact of reapplying the chem no one can say that a finish only takes 8oz, etc. as when the water evaps to point of almost being gone you've then not only used more and but higher concentrations have been at play.

    Frankly by using more product your relying on burning the finish off.

    I know for FACT all to well that in coating removal it is not all about caustic strength. Wetting is key. So much so that in using acrylic strippers over the years I can confirm there be a difference between cheap caustic stripper and higher tech/boosted versions. The one type ya are forced to turn up concentration by way of turning down the amount of water involved and the other actually relies on more water than most would think makes sense. The surface sees the same amount of heat but ratio has you putting down alot more liquid. If it were just caustic it be better off letting it evap some for to get strength as if you add water it don't have the same surfacting action as a "" boosted version. Some anufactures I know that make such stuff would balk or have a cow if they heard of folks mixing their stuff stronger. When someone has problem of the best stuff on the market costing over $20 per gal not working they immedietly ask what ratio they used. I also know for fact that some go ahead and plan for such mistakes of over concentration by cutting the stronger mix to a level that it will work. Sounds crazy but that is the nature of surfacting. Instead of like 20:1 they make it 6:1 so a fella that likes to put a whole gal in a bucket can still get it to work.

    So in summation if you boost yer product but then dilute it well you'll end up using less caustic..

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Instead of thinking of it as a boost Beth have you ever thought to try reversing the roles of the chems and viewing the hydroxide as the boost?

    Honestly the way the surfactants are portrayed sometimes seems to be saying that they would be doing damage or should be thought of as a lesser ingredient of participation.

    I contend that the whole thing of dwell and keeping wet directly relates with the role of the booster/surfactant. Why you think you need so much heat of hydroxide on a little rosewood oil could be a valid question.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Ought not blaim fur or fuzzies on the pressure or washer. Some wood just does it while giving up the ghost. picture them particles as fingers sticking up that were holding the dead gray wood or finish... Pressure damage comes in the form of gauges or splintered wood.

    Some fur can fall off over a few week or they can deck brush it, or 3m pad it, or sand it. Depends on how much being left is tolerable.

×