MMI Enterprises
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Posts posted by MMI Enterprises
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Good to hear of the durability Jeff. I've used the 5 year and it is good stuff for some situations. Among other reasons I like it for verticles and for its wide color selection. The dark colors tend to not show off the grain sometimes though.
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What amount does it attract Rick? How many Cali users are on here?..Can only assume since the product comes from here in Cali that most the sales are here and they haven't had much need to tread elsewhere. Realize we are like our own economic world out here and most folks in these cleaning,staining, or construction trades are out there workin under a different type of business plan of large construction situations. When a large commercial painter out here needs something they usually goto the store. And when a stain manufacture needs to make sales they probably goto a store as well. There are thousands of stainers and painters that don't even bother with internet for either their customer base or supplies.
What I can confirm is that Armstrong-Clark only just recently considered or realized a market of pro users hanging out on the net. Whatever the case..try it, test it for yourself.
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Stop by before he starts and drop a hint that a turbo nozzle is the only way you would go about getting all those decks done in time..or while he there workin all dead dog tired barely on his feet let him know how much they were willing to pay you until he lowballed the job. :lgbounces
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Yes far as I know glycol ether is same as 2 butoxy and also as well as butyl cellosolve. I like purple power from walmart for certain applications. Has different qualities than the castrol. Thats not to say it better but is just different.
Disclaimer- butyl has had a history of causing vinyl swelling and such cleaners can remove paint if too strong or dwelled long enough.
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Longevity? In worse case scenario it couldn't be worse than some others. Heck it would then fit into some folks idea of a business plan of servicing every 1-2. By the way it went on in I can tell that there isn't a chance for it to chip off like a top coat could. Similar to woodrich.. Only time will tell of course but I suppose we could check with the ski resort up in Tahoe...think it either Kirkwood or Heavenly up at 7k' but I could be mistaken.
I think this one may be really coming on in the near future.Is here now.... think I heard for 7 or 8 year..
who ya talkin about anyways?.. Jim?
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I'd like to give props to Jake Clark of Armstrong-Clark Company for the utmost in professionalizm and customer service. Innitial testing went real well. Product has a good balance of qualities. Held verticles well with not much need for backbrushing, if any, and pigmentation was swell. It was also very friendly on the nostrils and sprayed as perfect as any other. It is a combo product with both curing oils and penetrating oils.
The color sample fans and sales flyers are second to none and are above par with picks of bright blue sky and mountain ski resorts. I talked to Jake on a weekend and had my product by a Tuesday evening UPS shipping. The product is also carried in some Kelly Moore or Sherwins I believe so between quik mail order and local availability the product is real attractve to me...
Thanx Jake!!
Could use some better lighting here but below is example of Sierra Redwood. Is abit richer in person and was perfect match for a Superdeck color that had failed all over:
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Matt,
How long have you been applying the RS out here on the redwood?
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Couple test spot on horizontal with a couple strengths as well as a couple on low exposure areas of the rail system where the spindle meet the rail will let ya know. If the horizontal comes right off but the other is tougher it can still work out easy enough if ya plan for some spot stripping with meth cloride or straight stripper after the innitial strip....just take maybe an extra 10 min to an hour to get it...If it seems the rails not come off hardly at all during a test then I sell it as a resolid. Sometimes rails are done on purpose at some point in a decks history with a tougher product on rail areas. Like I might use a urethane or acrylic fortified or solid oil on rails or pergola but then use a paraffinic on the deck below. I pity the fool that goes in half cocked down the road on those.
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I don't think so. It may come right off without extreme measures. Just a matter of getting it wet through and through with surfactant as the gray that is surely underneith will give it all up rather easy. Some butyl or tsp along with percarb should do. Covering them plants might be sound advice though..
This was just with garden hose in a somewhat controled acidified bleach experiment. Not nearly as thick as what you got Matt but it just goes to show how weak the stuff can be to get off:
Although not same gross buildup this deck did fine with boosted NaOH and didn't kill any flowers or plants that were overgrown all over the railngs.The first pic is the test section with garden hose and I ended up diluting about half during actual job. The stair rails looked same as Ricks pic:
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Can't entirely agree with the logic posed of not sealing Ipe from get go.
I see it that there are many things to consider..
For your consideration I point to conversation in Rick's ipe thread below.
Letting it season only rings true to me if it can be proven that a deck that was sealed from get go every year or so is STILL a very fickle character compared to the one that went 6 month or so before it got it's first.
I just can't say I've seen a shread of evidence saying either deck would not be well situated to take stain a few year in so I have to relate the topic to being about trying to save money rather than providing initial asthetics.
Thanx Rick. I see what yer saying and figured the months that other deck held the stains work out to 7 mon. and then 9 mon.... but are you saying your deck is way older and underwent a couple cycles before ya aged it all free of stain for that year?I would think one of those stains lasting better than another would be due to both the stain itself and the deck history/amount of seasons.
Just want to clarify the age differences and seasoning as heck for sure a 7-9 mon. versus a full year or more is a worthy thing to confirm. I mean in the long term over 30 years that is only 30 services versus 45 services....although we all know full well eventually after only a few or more year they both will have about same seasoning and end up getting a year off a stain. Especially considering the one that fails early will end up seeing more age time due to folks being more likely to let it go a few month being bare if not due to economics then due to deck work seasons not meshing with when it actually needs done. Can't do a deck if the snow is still falling..
Think I would go ahead and stain for aesthetics and count on things catching up eventually. This doesn't even allow for possability of aging from get go by stripping. Isn't that what Rod or others are doing?.....Hello, Anybody gettin a year or more off a 2 year old ipe to verfy the possability of not aging for a year??
Russell, you said heaps here mang!! very smart thing to point out... "In a sense you can think of them as "oiled down" versions of Wood-Tux but in reality, only the percentage of oil to resin changes. The percentage of pigment and other solids is virtually identical. "
JOgden reacted to this -
Matt,
Oh Holy Hell!!.. I always screw up something or other in the numbers by way of writing the ratios wrong...please forgive.
My 1:5 is incorrect and supposed to be refuring to 4:1 (20%) downstreaming. 2.5gal= 5 tot parts when the one part of chem is .5 gal
..see the following thread where Eric and I went through this before: http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/residential-pressure-washing/6857-sil-o-wet-plexmaster.html
Also, perhaps the "/" I use to show division one moment and then to show a fraction the next is confusing. Is why I tried to write the fractions out.
Whether yer using a downstreamer, xjet, or predilution by hand doesn't matter...they all are a way to cut or dilute.
The formula does work if you put figures down correct...
Good luck guy!...
ps--please correct if wrong..lol
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i am not sure what exactly you need to drive this program but here it is:Excel or Open Office
Sheet assumes using that product and bleach
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It a 2.3gpm but apparently when not under pressure ya pump abit more.
If your pumping close to or want to call it 2.5gpm then could look at figures as such:
2.5/.5= 1:5 (is 20:100, 20/100, .20, 20% injection) edit: sorry, should say it is 4:1 or 4 to 1 downstreaming. The translation to percentage is partially correct in that it comes from the chem being 1/5th of the tot 2.5 gal pumped...but then of course you did imply you maybe closer to doing 3 gal so it probably off regardless..:lgbonk:
If you first cut or preproportion your chem in half before injection then your injector will make it 10%.
By calculator I just use the decimal forms of whatever I am starting with and wanting to end at.
This case it would be .20/.10=2 (is 1:2, 50:100, 50/100, .5, 50% predilution)
ps- I always get these things wrong so don't quote me.. :)
Can also use formula worked out for cutting found here: http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/residential-pressure-washing/10204-12-5-sh-quesiton.html#post100185
Formula being C x (t/b)
C=desired cut percentage, t= tank volume, b= starting bleach, etc. percentage
example- .10 * (1gal/.20)
..or on paper can be written as:
.10 X 1 = .10 = .10/.20= .5gal chem in a 1 gal container
1----.20--.20
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Don't let the one incident of perceived overcharge result in your not discounting or providing services. You do after all owe him at least your professional availabilty for use of the space..Just do work as you can fit it in and without effects to other customers or your bottom line.
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files above aren't workin fer me now.. Beth?
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Post it up Dan...we'll call it "Danno the Manno's SES" (surfactant enriched stripper)
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My best advice for you would be to go with a premixed stripper. Message earlier on was that it takes more than the raw chem alone. You can hurt yourself if you don't know how to handle the raw dry stuff.
BTW, neither is acidic but rather are alkaline.
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Looks like the psc is siloxane and who knows with the vseal. Don't see it on their site or any msds for that matter on anything. Some product says what they are like the acrylics and but others like the 20 year concrete sealer is not all that candid on what it is. Is it silica, is it lithium based densifier? I mean what gives..can't use it if I don't know what it is or how much it costs. And really no thanx on the calling them thing. Don't have time or inclination to log down what they could make handy in a sentance or two on their site or product description. My feeling is they could take a lesson from other sites and be more clear.
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Maybe on monday if the gals are sending one out and they dont mind me taping i can.Can't wait Ron..knowing yer past offerings it should be a good one.
Mine goes as such:
I open my last quote and goto a tab that applies either customer or internal note before or after line items. I grab a terms paragraph from it into my clipboard and then note the quote number. These quotes are in almost the same format as an invoice but the cell inclusion and order is customized.
Now I start a quote,drop those two above infos in, and save.
Then off the quotes customer box/drop down list I create a new customer by copy/pasting from email or estimate form. Normally that would be off a main tab listed as customer or vendor maintenance and is just easier to do off a quote or an invoice.
So now the quote is almost finished but for doing my line items. Again a drop down lets me at my inventory which is a huge variety of items. Some are fixed rate some are sq. ft. Depending on how I expect bid meeting to go I print out a couple version to offer customer. Like one will be for clean and stain of decking and railing or one may be for stripping of deck and porch/pergola, etc. But for a word or two and the actual price there may not be much difference in the items. If the location has not been measured the price is already listed and but quantities are left blank and I total stuff up on the spot. My feeling is customers appreciate knowing I am working the bidding process off an already set price. This way the customer can sign on the spot or least they know what the amounts are. Later on within a day or so I email or fax them over version with the quantities and totals filled in by computer.
Since inventory is ready for the taking and the terms paragraph includes tentative start/completion dates, stain color choices, and signature/acceptance lines it usually takes less than a couple minute start to finish to make a new customer quote that turns into a contract. About as long as it takes to read this... :) This past Friday I received call for bid as I was about to head out the door to a bid meeting in same area of town. I walked my old lady through the above quote process as I was busy with hygene and getting dressed (don't ask). Loading test chem/stain samples can take time...lol
I get about 5 line items on quote without the quote itself extending into two pages. Other pages such as terms sheet, reference sheet, ins. are provided as sutiable.
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And the sealer ya end up using is?
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Yup..I'de prefure the brushless models in highrider format such as the 640...packings may last longer too.
These type of airless along with reversable tips and the 24" extension wand will make yer day..(Costco for the commercial wagner and Lowes for the wand!!, cheapest)
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Fair enough Dan..thanx. Since I use another stripper all I can do is go off what others say. Ken says ya can get the half tub in so....
Dry volume measure complicates things.. I should go less and count more on the other ingredients. Burned my wrist the other day and it kinda hurts. :o
ps-- if it were straight hydroxide we could use the following link to see that half lb of hydroxide (8oz.) converted to dry volume is closer to 3/4 cup than what is listed on ESO faq for hd80. For hd80 they say 2/3 cup.
Here ya go, pick a chem: Weight to Volume conversion online.
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Joel, surely that is not the limit.For instance you can get lbs. and lbs. of NaOH in a gal.
There is a faq on bottom of this page for hd80: Extreme Solutions - Quality Restoration Products ..
extended info-
Extreme Solutions - Quality Restoration Products
..btw, you need to know your DSratio/factor before you settle on 20oz of anything.. i.e- 1:5 (20% streamer) = 6x .. so 20oz/6= 3.33oz per gal TTW
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Ron, I am ready for another youtube summary video showing you doing yer contract/quote start to finish....thanx :)
Stripping Penofin??? Not coming off...
in Wood Cleaning & Restoration - Decks, Fences, etc.
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You got boost?