MMI Enterprises
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Posts posted by MMI Enterprises
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Eric.. My thoughts..
Good sprayer..
-Look into getting appropriate tip is all for the stain consistancy your using...
-Make sure your pole is the extension type and use one of the durable pad gizmos on end that won;t fall apart. I luv the big whister brush too.
-No need to back brush rough sawn fencing.
- If you are going to try and use only one line for both waterborne and oilborne then for sure clean it each time with laqcuer thinner then the degreaser or cellosolve. otherwise your looking at a big clog if you try and use just mineral spirits.
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On the innitial questions I would echo Ken for the sake of drips and tone..not necessarily for any reasons of the latter lapping topic brung up.
When it comes to AC I got hardly an issue at all and I backbrush the horizontals with either the big whister or a small pad on long pole for sake of smooth/clear tone that lets you see the grain rather than being so opaque..
On the lapping I got to echo Dan and mention to Tony that Dans likely analogy/complicating things with talk of painting is very reasonable direction to turn for sound advice because painting deals more with a coating/mil thickness usually more prone to the term lapping. There is another thread last year of this talk as well. I get out of such issues by way of blending/feathering the spray if I am cutting in. I only cut in with brush on very small tight spots or places that the plastic or cardboard messed me up. Lately all my jobs get the plastic/tape gun method same as my concrete deco jobs. Overspray concerns are via plastic tarp.
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Have heard of this person...but I admit I know not for sure their history. Rumour has it they from the industry or some such.
Rick, tell us more or link us to any writeup results of the AC/ ipe thing. I have a someone interested in going more than the 6-9 month they been getting from other hardwood/exZotic type products. For life of me I can't think of a single reason just now on how a lite film of drying oil locking things away could be a bad thing on such a wood. Heck its able to take a heftier dose of washing so any of the familiar complaints of removal of drying oils are almost moot point. Its all gonna fail at some point from extractives but when exactly is that gonna be with AC? Only some nationwide test results are going to say is my feeling. I assume at least 1-2 year if not 3. AC's oil combo may indeed be more suitable to handle issues of extractives or whathave you trying to force and boil their way on out.. What ya think? :)
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Vincent,
What if you intend to put down a different type of stain, similar color, but different type? No on different types. Stick to waterborne (acrylics) on waterborne and oilborne on oilborne or you risk delamination from either mechanical grip or moisture transfer from underneither. Water will infiltrate from above once film barrier is compromised from foot traffic, temp cracking, etc. and effect the two exposed products at different rates..bamm it peels off!.. Exception is when your to do a solid stain of thicker mil as an actual coating..you can then use like an alkyd oilborne primer between types to lock things away like on exterior siding or house painting. Tried on horizontal decking though and you get what I consider a decking atrocity as eventually everything fails. Stripping solid coatings from horizontal decking is nighmare. I just don't go there myself. For verticle work though you can either prime or use the Provt (waterborne) self priming when you know not exactly what your dealing with and want to ensure a lasting finish.
I am presently stripping a deck done with Sherwin Williams natural waterbourne semi-transparent. I am getting between 90-95% of it off. Do I need to get every spec of it off to re-apply with ready seal natural cedar semi? Got to take it all off or the parrafinic itself will likely cause the waterborne synthetics to fall off. Since only a 5-10% of the surface would be sealed it will also fail once the oils of the new start to deminish from process I descibe above of moisture infiltration.
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Charlie, ..many ouchy hours perhaps the answer..That's alot of work :)
I had 300' ipe deck lead today. Can't say I would go with same product or methods though.
Mike, I am sure it's a fine job as a labor of love usually works out swell in the end!! Have a cool one and ENJOY!
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I agree with Tony on Armstrong and contractors alike bennefiting from a 'Contractor Showcase' type of outlet on Armclark.com. There are some other things that I talked with Jake about concerning the site also. Unsure if anything has changed or not...
Regardless to anything of the site, color options/mixed pic availability, giveaways, etc., ......I just simply luv the stuff, it's the bomb!!
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So it mainly the about page hu?.. The main page is totally dif and you have a big leg up there.. I would spend too much time on it.
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Hey people!!.. been working some and have been all lost and addicted to mafia wars.. :o
Missed you all.. so I pay a visit.
Care to summize what's been going on lately in the Scene??
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With those great pics and all that said.... I can hardly get over the KellyMoore guy stressing to me that a deck has to be stripped every time.. Some just can not be helped as they do not listen to what your saying. All the guy could think on was Cabot acrylic..cabot acrylic, cabot acrylic.. due to his training of course.
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Kevin, IPE verticals will last 2-3 years with most stains. It's the horizontals that's the problem.Oh yea for sure.. this topic is about ipe after all and I forgot that on that second post in thinking about waterborne products. One thing I tend to do when thinking of a fairly decent waterborne for wood in general is to think of Omax..
Now but to move onward. I wonder what exactly this synthetic is in the Defy product. I've noticed that many times the manufactures turn to synonym use so that a products ingredients do not sound like the same old ball of wax or to not scare folks that have certain ideas about a ingredient in their heads. Two such fear inducing ingredients would be the use of epoxy or urethane. Doesn't Defy market their product as having epoxy in it?.. foregive if mistake, at least one of the products did anyways. In another field of floor care I tend to prefure products 'fortified' with just a tad of flexable urethane myself. For wood I'v only noticed it listed a time or two.
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..just a little warning..
Not gonna speak to these two products but just bare in mind folks that when we are after something to work better or faster- aka clean by way of product mixing we generally are asking it to speed up the reactions or oxidizing or releasing of a chems power faster or different than what the chem or product was designed for or how it was meant to be used on its own. Therefore alot of them incompatability info's or warnings listed for a chem go out the window as the warnings have to respect it's listed use. Many things can be mixed to beneficial results but that said, mixing can be dangerous course to take as well. I mean you go releasing the stored power all at once and ya make a cloud of poisonous chlorine gas or something. ...I would only urge mixing things if it is well documented as being ok to do so.
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A loving/professional effort will always be appreciated and inspire the same from those that experience it. Keep up the good works!!..
Hey what I miss?.. somethin inspire this thread? :)
ps- umm err..Chris just posted.. what ya go and do Chris?. inspired some mushy forum feelings didn't ya?.. haha
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Was Omax considered for this test?. Would liked to have seen it go against Defy. It is on some fence I done over past two year and it still looks great.
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Beth I have seen blue or green-blue wood but it wasn't anything to do with stain removal as it was on bare wood and assume it is due to wood treating process or reaction before a finisher gets their hands on it. That said, there is a blue portion of coloring that is involved in reaching some stain and paint colors that we can't see when the color is whole and maybe it is harder to remove or maybe it can seperate out or penetrates deeper into some woods...although I don't recall it being all that common or in high percentage in the most common colors.
I'll assume you have some basis for yer blue thingy as I feel anything is possable when it comes to wood getting stained by treatments. All it takes is a ph reaction to metalic salts. For instance copper (copper sulfate, or cupic chloride) makes blue and all yer green colors when reacting or oxidizing and is used for concrete staining. We also know that it's taken role in products for it's ability to prevent algia, mold, or insect damage.
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Well Mud that's not really correct. It is toxic and is a poison. Just not all that strong. Keep away from dogs, kids, and expecting mothers is best bet. Google 'borax toxicity' if ya like... there is some info floating around that mentions as little as 5gram can kill a child..
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Just get the tip to match whatever it gonna go through..yon yonk..
In other words, many setups work. I use standard pressure gun setups sometimes with short angled wand and sometimes a long 8 footer ball valve setup used mainly for bleach application.. But I moslty just use an airless 3 footer wand from Lowes. Just don't drop it..breaks easy.
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I can only say that borax repels spiders..unsure how strong it needs to be to actually kill the multitude of different species. With all that said about harming plants or being used in soaps it should be said that it should not be used around expecting families and that should tell us something about being too cavalier in its use in general....
Only thing i know of it for insects for sure is that it gets carried back to roach nests and dries the eggs out
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Yea funny stuff..lol
But let me ask ya this folks.
Does Jake have the word 'trustable' written all over his face or what?
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Needs some trophy deer heads or game birds on the wall..
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Somethin outta Little House on Prairie by chance eh Beth?
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I agree Rick..no presumption here on what component the writer is calling a drying or non-drying oil.. Just addressing topics or thoughts posed here. I imagine the product has a multitude of seperate raw ingredients.
ps- btw, Jake said I was square on..anyone think that using that kinda language makes him one?..haha :)
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Do it..should work. I have right angle orbital on air, just haven't gotten around to trying it as I tend to only break out the air for the palm nailer or straight chem applications.
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No Office here.. they are resource hogs, take up too much space, take over everything, and hard to get rid of.. :)
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"Linseed is a drying oil" Yes, that's what is being said and that is what I said. The term can be as cut and dry as ya like....lol :)
PS- Here ya go James: Drying oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
..note how it's all about air oxidation/polymerzation rather than moisture evaporation that some may think about or write in articles..
Semi-drying oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
----more references----------
Lin-Speed.com - Gunstock Finish & Care Oil for Valued Gunstocks New & Old
"Ordinary linseed oil never really dries. The "GB" Lin-Speed refinement process removes the non-drying linseed parts (called Foots)."
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"Pure linseed oil is a non-drying oil, and therefore is not a practical finish for wood. This type of oil may be available in health-food stores, but is not intended for wood.
Boiled linseed oil is not actually boiled, but has been processed (by oxidation, or adding metallic thinners) to speed its drying time. The remainder of this page refers to "boiled" linseed oil."
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..note yer polymerized via heat only is what is called 'stand' oil or 'polymerized'... Doesn't dry like a boiled/blown version. Is also what I have always suspected as the problem behind that fiasco of another stain manufacture.. Never did hear a reasonable answer to why all that went down..
But anyway the order would go as such on the dry scale:
Pure unprocessed linseed oil (flax seed oil..doesn't dry)
Sun thickened (artists did this long ago..drys fast enough to do a painting over time)
Heat thickened (polymerized/stand oil..long dry times)
Boiled or blown (includes metalic dryers and or is oxidized)
Hope this helps...foregive if something is off, I am but a layman myself in this.. :)
AC Semi Solids
in Wood Cleaning & Restoration - Decks, Fences, etc.
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I luv the sequoia...although hardly any are picking it here based on the chips. They see the other chips showing more grain and tend to go with the sierra or toner.