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MMI Enterprises

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Posts posted by MMI Enterprises


  1. I sorta got away from even using the toolbox methoc much. I throw some the items above into the plastic map pocket of my doors.

    Here's what I carry:

    needle nose plyer

    regular plyer

    few screw drivers

    couple crescent

    couple open & boxed end wrench

    mid szed vice grips

    couple pipe wrench

    a few various gauged peices of wire for seal picking and nozzle cleaning

    utility knife

    puddy knife

    oh and most of all.. the brightest best headlamp available

    (my pipe fitting bucket has a multi purpose hydrant wrench, faucet chuck key, and large pipe wrench)

    socket set and hammer rarely get used so are stored away.


  2. PW but I still would like to get first hand opinion on what the pro's use especially in regards to durability and parts availibilty

    From one pro to another I can tell you the pro's use every brand that you will end up hearing or reading of...This pro would say the fence leans towards Deublin on the rotary union part as far as respect which is probably earned via their durability, specs, and real world speeds. My underated Deublin ran a couple year at good speed.

    Availability for a branded surfacer or parts thereof should be as simple as contacting and having a relationship with one of the vendors on these boards. Any reputable local supplier will carry this or that but question would be what is junk and what isn't....hence myth dispelling and sharing of any lists or logged info.

    I can tell you that it is a special thing to run across a vendor that only sells what they know to be the best since they have to accomodate both thrifty disposable minded folk and high end at all cost folk. If I had to pick who has highest respect of trying to push only good stuff it would be Bob at Ptstate.


  3. None taken Bill...kinda hard to be offended by someone/anyone that has no experience with topic at hand. So you know, I pretty much deal in facts and but wise enough to know when a product has no cookie cutter standards that there is room for theory to be examined or elaborated on into known fact by those in the know. Sometimes it takes a sharing of book learned knowledge by those that may show up as much so as experience. Personal experience of what one saw is often different from what another saw...just look to the criminal witnesses/justice system to see how everyone sees things different. But if it is only experience yer after make sure to hang around the boards as pro's with 20+ years are bound to show some time or other...

    My advice to you would be to learn the search button, cummulate many opinions or hard facts of the various makes, gain some respect for math cause it applies to pretty much everything, oh and don't take no wooden nickels.. :bouncy:


  4. Brand--good question, is more about parts used and/or wheel layout and overall design

    Size--debatable depending on how fast ya want to go and again parts used

    You can start off by examining what a few others are using or getting away with. Check out my latest work page 6 to about page 9 found here: Login

    Info and examples put the numbers into perspective via use of a simple formula I came up with E=U/C

    (where E=effectiveness, U=units(gpmxpsi), C=circumference)

    The way it works is that if you decide on a level of effectiveness and are confident someone elses known results or choice in brand of rotary union, bar, etc. is able to put out good speeds/efficiency then you can plug in the numbers to get to same results with various washers or size surfacers.

    This helps to calculate your circumference: circumference calculator

    Keep in mind you may want to change your surfacer tips to larger size so your psi comes down between 3000-3500 so as to prevent damage to soft or fresh concrete skim coats. This would take your 16k units down to more like 14k units for figuring a size or effectiveness. Quik figuring tells me you'll be good somewhere's between 19"-25" of diameter depending on parts and effectiveness goal.


  5. Thanks for the perspectives and the link...

    Hard to say whether this perticular kid shows much ADHD but rather it could be classified more as ADD if anything. I know the pro's have had to rethink how they classify ones disorders as for one the drugs they liked to prescribe for the symtoms didn't always work out as benneficial for all. Big difference between a kid that is hyper and one that doesn't focus on what he is supposed to be focusing on. Probably all my kids will show as the ADD. With my oldest it accompanied his somewhat milder case of tourettes. None of them really seem to be overly latchy though other than it just being a stage they go through. The one in question will hug all over his mamma at times but generally he seems very independant and well balanced when I see him in a school setting. Just maybe a little more sensitive in general than some. This is the first I heard of him having problems at school. I worry his symtoms may worsen to where it effects his schooling or relationships. He is well liked and popular for a 6 year old at school. Kids of all ages walk by acknowledging him by name saying hi and all..is kinda funny. Besides the hugging I did just also hear the other day (half way through the school year) that his fluency (reading) is not upto speed. That would suck if he gets left back... gonna have to crack down abit and get him reading faster for sure. Am torn on the hugging thing though being he got all teary eyed when I explained he can't be doing that to people outside the family.


  6. Ok this is crazy...My 6 year old is like one hug or kiss away from getting written up at school... What do I do with him?. Do I threaten him with bodily harm for crawlin all over girls like a mammas boy or do I hug him and ask him nicely to stop hugging or kissing on people? Told my wife that I kinda want him to get in trouble for it just so we can tease him about it when he is older or so we can goto principle office and get all serious about hugging and kissing rules applied to a 1st grader. The term sexual harrasment was mentioned..we are like wow, hu, that's nuts. Think I'll teach him to hit people when he feels like hugging or kissing. That'll fix things..


  7. Rando, There is nothing valid about that 4" per gal figure. For a two tip setup on even an average rotary union/twin bar a 5" or more figure would be more appropriate. On a good setup 6" is surely doable. Regardless though, the nature of circumference in relation to diameter by figuring pi doesn't even really allow such a figure/factor to stay accurate. Is just an approximation.


  8. Am not yet familair with the idea or need for this valve on an air diaphragm pump. I was under impression that it is perfectly fine for a stall in that pressure is trapped and the air pump part just bypasses to open air. Think we need info on if there is some sort of issue with wear or lapse of pressure, flow, or overall efficiency without this shuttle valve installed?

    One of my little Wildens may have this directly built in or taking place of the air pumps main inlet block. I don't use that perticular pump yet as it has a built in proportioning system and just haven't the need yet to mess with it. The air inlet does look different compared to a stock pump though and may be this exact same thing. Have to dig it out and get a better look...

    ps- But then again I don't see how this could be applicable on the air inlet. Would seem to me only useful as being the same thing as the bypass I mentioned above. Regardless, wouldn't the chambers have to stop working due to the design of these pumps?

    pps- I don't think this valve meant to do anything for stalled pump. Here's the additional info for that valve:

    Shuttle Valves

    Act as a special check while connecting two different inputs so that only one output is on at a time.

    Check ball moves away from inlet port with the greatest pressure (10 psi minimum to effect shuttle change).


  9. Thank you for the reply Kevin.

    Will the Simer pumps' seals last pumping out the wastewater (soap, mild degreasers, etc) from this tank? Should I be looking for Viton only?

    One problem I am having is finding a submersible pump that will fit through the 5" opening at the top of the tank. I saw this small pump for use in parts washers from Little Giant. Any thoughts?

    Yea the hole size can be problem. The idea of sticking a drain on that 1" and gravity flowing it back to vacuum boom tank for to use it's evac pump sounds best to me. If that doesn't suit for some reason you can gravity the water down to a bucket holding a pump. Here's a Little Giant I use for all sorts of things: Little Giant Pump Company#


  10. Tell him you've given him some time and if he still needs more time to scrape funds together that you'll set him up with a payment plan instead of taking him to court. But condition him that he needs to put some money up to hold you off and that he needs to stay current to the schedule.

    ..likely a pipe dream though as people with integrity and charactor would have explained to you whatever issue they have. Scum of the Earth I tell ya...this type stuff keeps food from babies mouthes and suffers people. Needs a beating I tell ya!


  11. No mercy mang! Call the guy when you know he is in there and leave message that you'll be over in 30 minutes for your "" meeting. Get a few big rough looking guys with hoodies on and have them park their Continetal across the street when you know he up and around. Have them stand there staring at his house for a few hour. Then you come and make a bunch of motions to them as if your telling them what ya want done. They should be shaking their heads and shaking your hand and comforting you. Pay them a C note right there if ya like...LOL

    Then hook up with him when he heading to work, going to store, etc. and tell him in private he needs to pay up or them guys are gonna straight up ruin his life in unbelievable ways...

    Personally I'd say just tell him the facts of what's gonna happen and tell them ya know where they live or that a restraining order doesn't actually keep them breathing..lol

    I'm a big enough scary guy to get away with it myself..unsure about you so... Trick is to talk really weird and crazy not in a threatening way but in a factual way. Helps to let them know that your not one to take it to the judge or to be taken advantage of. Could explain to him that your principles just do not allow you to forget this and that you'll have to get him in the most imaginitive ways when he least expects it. Sure fire method of getting paid is to walk up to his wife somewhere and tell her what's gonna happen to her wonderful husband that doesn't pay the bills.

    Collections are best handled off the record.


  12. Doesn't seem too assinine as it is probably an original poor cement mix issue...

    I think it is more about getting rid of the poor quality crete all the way down to and surrounding the underlying metal reinforcement structure, clearing up any corrosion found on it, and then repouring with proper crete mix before sealing. Being reinforcements are to be like at least 2" deep to prevent deterioration of it's protective layer I can't picture the process you described as being a full fix/restore. Seems unlikely they went deep enough for an actual inspection of the metal but perhaps they did test section or know how deep the proeblem was. Sounds like method they used was to just seal it up with better/denser crete and a seal which would be helpful. Prevent water and oxygen from getting in and there can be no corrosion is how all that works. Problems start after about 50-60% moisture I think.

    Maybe ask Jim over at ***..


  13. Must be totally clogged up good to where all water is bypassing then.

    Pressure switch is usually off unloader which is before coil and I would think you could get some initial kick with one of those and a trapped unloader but it sounds like ya got a flow switch or flow type unloader....Regardless, what does burner kickin on or not have to do with anything?. Water still is to go through boiler. Ya said the coil is clogged with rust...why is that? somethin wrong there that needs attention.

    Hook the 'in' hose of the boiler (the unloader output) to the boiler outlet to see if pressure unclogs it...or try blowing it out backwards with an air compressor.

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