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MMI Enterprises

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Posts posted by MMI Enterprises

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Did you try to. It let me pick the three i wanted to

    thought it deselected..must not have.. :)

    Hey about these 3 "no hose" people.. Who you be?..

    There is some major validity in going that route. You can just hang them on one hook or better yet on two hooks horizontal (like a vacuum cleaner) when you make the loops real long like 6'. Lot's of gardeners and drywallers do that out here. They just walk them out or in on shoulder.(10 loop= about 150').

    Although the guys get hella dirty they are able to drop 200' or pickup 200' quiker than a manual rewind.

    In terms of going around angles they way got us manual reel guys beat.

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Except fer that np9/nonylphenyl stuff (possably the same as the banned stuff in Europe) yer recipe is sorta similar to what I mentioned in MAS (Kev's modified apple sauce).

    Can anyone confirm it is same banned stuff???

    well anyways...

    Tambasco Sauce = Sodium percarbonate/sodium carbonate(washing soda/filler/oxy clean), tri sodium phosphate (tsp), polyoxyethylene nonylphenol (np9)

    MAS= Sodium percarbonate, tsp , muleteam borax (likely does similar to the sodium cabonate far as ph stabalizing, etc.)

    Works good on waterbased acrylic floor finish but so does potassium hydroxide and 2-butoxy at a more emulsified/deeper level.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Since yer game I'll add further....

    Deck is small and no rails and low environmental issues of damaging plants so you boost the hd80 with a suitable booster (safe antifreeze, etc....research via the tgs search function), lay it on good and thick, cover it with plastic sheet for a few hours or overnight, then powerwash it off as high as wood will let you go without causing damage. (maybe 600psi, maybe 1k psi..?). If it firs up then break out the orbital or belt sander after it dries a bit...acid neutralize after of course before staning.

    If this don't get it all then go with methylene chloride product such as 'jasco epoxy remover' on the left over spots. If the hd80 didn't do as well as ya hoped for and it still pretty bad then you could do the whole thing in the meth since it small deck..

    You could even go there right off the bat with the meth and no pressure washer but have a fiver of lacquer thinner handy to both water it down or for easier cleanup of resultant goo. Pour a gal or two in a mop bucket and goto town on it with a mop after remover has dwelled a few. Don't let it dry...

    My further feeling is you will want to have all the old stain off and go with semi-transparent penetrating stain. You try to sand down them thick edges of the existing stain and yer bound to be back after it continues to peel. It just doesn't seem in good enough shape to go over top of...

    ...wear protection, don't fall in it, and good luck..you can do it man! :)

  6. Posted · Report reply

    I'll point out that the topic hasn't defined a specific industry persay. I mean feedback to stain manufactures or pressure washer manufactures is one thing but really no matter how big we think we may be we are such a tiny drop compared to the retail world or the commercial world that pays hardly a hair of attention on their scalp to these internet happenings.

    The manufacture and R&D industry make the products based on sales and feedback from everyone. Yes, if all internet bbs people were on same page then it would be what?..a drop in the bucket compared to industry,retail, goobermint buys and feedback..

    So I guess I saying we aint all that and a bag of chips..we but users of products already made and pushed to us. Is like TV compared to the computer. One is mush pushed but invited and luved by the masses and the other interactive and informative for those that care to take an active role.

    ...sorry, I am rambling on...carry on :)

  8. Posted · Report reply

    John,

    Ok you mean the wood toner titled 'waterproofing sealant'. The 5yr-dark brown label is the semi-trans 'deck, fence, siding stain' . Is alkyd emulsion base that is tintable to whatever ya want.

    Can ya tell me is the cleanup with that green label easy or is it sticky mess?

    The semi-trans is full of it with their easy water cleanup idea in my opinion.

    I might have to concede and call it the toughest stuff out there though.

  11. Posted · Report reply

    I agree.....anytime we do pool decks.... especially marble,travertine, flagstone... we add shark scale....or 60 grit anti slip.....I buy my stuff from specialty products however they do have similar products at home depot/lowes. Its clear crushed glass beads and you add it to the clear seal...creates a sandpaper-like surface

    HAHA.. coincidence has me talking elsewhere about that same stuff right before you did..too funny man. :)

    I should be more specific with other reasons why I discourage it's use in general... (This speaks to the small containers of the glass beeds only)

    ..In some installations such as decorative crete in hair salons the floors become slick in same amount of time as usual when it put in regular acrylic sealer. Situation is that of sprays and loose hair polishing (abrasion) the surface and after but only a month or less it is back to square one on resistance. It really should not be advised for use in the non permenant coatings is my experience and debatable in the permenant as well. If you picture a microscopic 'hill and valley' situation the hills have no choice but to wear down eventually due to the increased traffic posed on them compared to the valleys. After the top points of hills that dig in to shoes are gone then what you end up with is actually less traction due to less contact/friction points of the shoe traffic.

    I prove it regularly on both floors with the beeds or without by the act of burnishing (heat melting) the acrylics or urethanes to gain more resistance. Yup it is true, a flatter/smoother surface is actually more slip resistant. When shoes seem to smooth a floor they actually create microscopic scratches that lessen contact/resistance..

    With all that said... if it situation like outside around a pool apron there will not be heavy shoe traffic and it will hold up good in a permenant coating. Commercial forget it...harder grit materials are available for such.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    With that said I'll stress the importance of slip resistance of a product...they not all equal at all and the coating is what in the end makes the slickness. Measured it is called slip resistance coefficiency and some product have info avalable, some don't. There is no need these days whatsoever to think that if something is shiny that it has to be slick or slippery. Uncoated concrete, stone, vinyl..you name it can be made to have better characteristics for both wet or dry via coatings....scary though is that they can also be made worse with a coating... i.e- I have a Behr product meant for sealing that you would never ever ever want to place at an entryway less you like to hurt people and have lawsuits against you..

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Ok..good eye Charlie..Some that gray in B) is both dead gray and stain and some parts I can see where it started to get clean or lighter.

    What I run into on shaded areas or bbq areas is that no matter how clean, stripped, or sanded..the covered area still always has more natural wood color/oils left and it taints the end color different. Is like with our amount of sun the decks get like driftwood color as if soaked in water till every last ounce of coloring is gone..different then silvery dead gray if ya know what I mean.. Is a very interesting topic aside from this thread I wish we could address properly. Was sorta tackeled in another thread about bbq areas on a deck but it ended up being situation of old finish still present. One fella told me they blend it with pads but in using different stains and all I don't really see it working on light stain jobs.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    There are guys here that can tell you about being able to strip via the chems through the washer...

    20 minute is pretty quik..too quik in my opinion especially considering most professionals will also neutralize the deck after with an acid spray down. This also happens to be the part of the process that brightens or lightens the decking.

    Charlie, how you get that covered part to match? you mean you can get it to match before staining or after?

    ps- here an example of stripper through machine method:In case you were still on the fence regarding DS'ing decks

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I concure with the other fellas..

    Although Olympic has various offerings I believe the one your refering to may have curing oil properties to it which will not be friendly to the RS oil feeding type stains. "When the ready seal fades over the next 6-12 months can the underlying stain bleed through?".. yes is likely..The new stuff could also cause flaking and failure of the old stain like a continuation of the stripping process. Sometimes you can indeed use same type products over each other if they were same type but this isn't the case here. Have placed RS over other penetration type stains to decent looking success but failure down the road is untested...best to strip All old off. You won't be able to get the exposed wood to match the covered persay but your guy should be able to remove all the old stain and that mildew/grease to the right of the bbq.

    Think you need to allow the wood condition/buildup conditions themselves dictate what the wood will need in way of final prep after it is fully stripped.

    Contractor should have allowed for that and shoudl be open to adjustment of it needing some sanding prep if need be...

    Perhaps most important thing I want to convey to you is that full stripping this deck will not and should hardly ever include a stronger more aggressive use of the actual powerwasher. 600-1k psi with proper wide angle tips are generally used to prevent wood damage. To finish this up contractor needs to either just do one more strip cycle of same strength or a slightly stonger strength if what we see is not the worst areas.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Ken,

    One thing I noticed when doing the percapita on my areas is that we be poor ..ahha.. Maybe looking at the county info rather than all the little city would offer folks enoug overview to decide whether they want to be in an area...

    Speaking of such...how come with yer sales ability you not out here.? I mean I am nowhere near their level but I know guys running plain old commercial janitorial with payrolls a tad bit under your 75k a month but they surely deal with a lot less stress than that of a woodie or pressure washer. You would probably clean up big time.

    Wondering what the population differences are though....hmmm..might change things..unsure

  23. Posted · Report reply

    My limited experience with the hvac ones are that they'll rust up pretty fast but won't melt.

    Currently I am without any type a stack for neither the burner or the engine. Since I am in an all steel trailer and there is a standard trailer vent opening just offset from the burner top the heat comes out fine with no danger of melting anything. Without the metal trailer I don't think I would have been able to take things a step further in making my machine a fully portable unit that can go in and out regularly as now it is too high in there to really mount any sort of a stack at all. If I pry it I can get one little piece of cut off hvac register up in there. Found that it just not really needed in my case anyways...I made a lift up type utility door along side of trailer and I open when running so that ends issues with the engine exhaust pretty much all together.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Chaz, no those figures I listed are not from a site persay. They are from figuring my known costs and personal labor time involved and then what I want to make for that time and effort expended. There is also a dose of respect to both the desire to keep faces fed and what my competition charges of course. The ranges I gave are due to the respecting what others are able to get elsewhere or for complications. Realize it aint for heavy strip of an acrylic lets say....

    Delco was mentioned recent but so was contractor.com...couldn't tell ya off top of my head what Delco list says for decks right now.

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