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MMI Enterprises

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Posts posted by MMI Enterprises

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Scared to hear what Fenner will say but I think it about right. Some circles I not doubt it be way too much though considering it only take a couple hour max. At some point customer expects to see standard flat rate pressure washing rates due to their perception that the specialized expertise of a woodie is not needed. We know different though and can attest to damages done by splash and dash/blow and go/same as washing anything else type mentality..

    The more you go towards restoration/construction/painting and full service in offering all in one deal the higher the premium you can get for all the individual items your offering.

    With that said I would not doubt Fenner can get $120 a board..(half the price of reskinning)...haha...just kidding/but not kidding..:cup:

  8. Posted · Report reply

    As often as repairs or new hoses are needed I go have it done with professional hydrolic equipment. They must cost a pretty penny to buy.. be interesting to find out how much here.

    If it aint high quality equipment though I don't think I would want to trust it..A person can get majorly slit open from the wires of a flailing hose and bleed out if they come undone. Can get burnt real good on a hot water machine also.

    Napa or other auto stores sometimes have the equipment as they deal with high pressure hosing for hydrolic applications..think up to like 10k pressure or there abouts.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    "fences are being stained with western cedarwtw. will I still get 200sq.ft per/gal, or will I need to lay it on more like 150sq.ft, per/gal."

    Depends on type of wood or how dry or new it is and then method of spray.(how much loss).Order of spray equipment efficiency would go something like such; true air atomized HVLP (90 something % efficient), then shurflow low flow type hvlp(bucketster), then shurflow high flow/pressure hvlp(dual pumping), then airless sprayer (80 something %), then paint padding/rolling.

    Over all the last project I used it on I averaged 160 with the dual pumping and no thinning.

    Is extremely fast method of applying stain and but tips have to be in good shape and you have to be quik and efficient with the hands. I like both true hvlp and the shurflow/bucketster method.. You should for sure get 200 or better with newer wood and efficient application methods though...just my humble opinion.. :)

    One coat western cedar on cedar picket with dual pump flojets at about 180 sq. ft. gal. coverage:

    100_1066.jpg

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Epoxy?...cleaning epoxy flooring doesn't need hardly any pressure as it is a smooth top film. If it is dirty greased then you just need a little chemical and a tad bit of heat otherwise you can surely ruin it. If it is dirty greased that is penetrated then you and customer in a world of hurt already as it is failed and likelky chipping?....Almost have to assume your actually wanting to rip it off, if that case then walk away.

    You could use a fresh turbo nozzle with the 0 degree orifice to do some damage though if your inclined.. :)

    Personally I grab the autoscrubber for epoxy flooring.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Kevin, I'm using behr... no clue how it will perform over time...

    Actually started out to use what was claimed as superior product but was not in stock, so I went to the big box and got what was, for a rush job.

    So far, all I can report is that it applies easily.

    abt 200sqft per gallon.

    Would be a nice looking fix for the stains shown here.

    If a downside becomes apparent, I'll post it.

    r

    BEHR- semi transparent acrylic stain ?...sounds cool.

    Have only tried their masonry silicone stuff to pretty good success. Blue bottle..

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Well I explained the options to the HO and she decided just to even out just that one section. I prepped it with oxalic to even it out and sealed it lear with a H&C clear seal. I was expecting the seal to leave a more "wet" finish look. It is in deed a good water proofer but it did not change the appearance of the flat work.

    No darkening then?,that good to hear..got us any more pics?

    If you want gloss then you can go with something like Glaze n seal 2000 (laqcuer).

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Unplug each spark plug wire with protected plyers while running under load..should hear a difference with each.

    Hook up a direct water supply off tap...could have blockage.

    Then do Alan's 'pump head' check.

    Maybe take each check valve out and tap them in and out to see how they respond and that they seat.

    Look at each O ring to see if torn..they are real thin.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Menu buttons and logo layout seems to waste some top space. I'de like to see things uncentered and busier. Margin space both left and right on main home page could use something. Maybe some side menus with testimonies or talking about yourself or links to videos.....you hood guys are big on videos right?

  21. Posted · Report reply

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  23. Posted · Report reply

    Well proper adjustment of the new unloader could be worth a recheck. Other problem that may or may not be obvious is that of running on only one cylinder on your Kohler...rpm or engine speed may seem proper but half horsepower is gone...happened on a Briggs of mine. Unplug spark plugs one at a time to make sure that is not problem.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    You may be getting yourself in and over your head and your customer overbudget if you go towards solid staining or top coating. Most clear top coats will darken the crete abit and perhaps that is not what you or they are after. Perhaps they just wanted a cleaning, rust removed, and some protection to make it easier to clean and for it to not stain so easy...Get ahold of the Vseal guys and ask if their impregnator type seals will darken the crete and explain the benefits of not top filming it...You need penetration.. :)

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