Jump to content

MMI Enterprises

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content count

    3,057

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Posts posted by MMI Enterprises

  3. Posted · Report reply

    yEA is a good idea to employee proof it. You never know when you might get a burner fire.. Not normal thing to happen but it does.

    My unit has the verticle boiler and so it is really close to the top...so close that I can barely fit it in trailer or get an angled piece of vent up in there. Turns out it is not needed in my case as long as I have the vent hole above. My trailer is all steel though.. :)

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Pricing for general janitorial work can vary heaps depending on size, location, and schedule. Rule of thumb past decade or so for big business was about $12 per hour or 5 cents per month on the larger daily serviced type locations. On smaller it goes more towards your rates plus floor work/carpet work. Floor rates go from .10 to .30 stripping again dependant on size.

    I always took a healthy medium between hourly and sq. ft. in figuring.

    To do the hourly you should know how long each cubicle/desk area, restroom, break room, trash can dump or office section takes on average for complete cleaning and then it also doesn't hurt to break that down more into the vacuum chores, sweep/mop chores, and then the trash/dusting chores. It's actually the exact opposite order in performing them tasks BTW and you put different people on each.

    But anyways, after it is all said and done..you should be able to hire $8 help, pay for equipment upkeep, and still make 20-40%. Stripping, burnishing, carpets, restroom products are usually extra but if you really want to play with them big boys like Janiking or the 3rd party Johnson Control outfits you gotta throw in some freebies...talk about lowballers..some bigger places are like 4 cents a month last I heard regardless of the higher min. wages..Can you say undocumented labor?

  9. Posted · Report reply

    seriousley feel yer pain ken..lol.. I just know that you can get any number of products/chemicals from the raw chemical before it almost similar to mineral oil coming from kerosene. If your poisoned from Ethylene Glycol,the wikipedia mentions giving alcohol to the person cause it attaches to the glycol molecules rendering them harmless. It also mentions how inside the body you end up with oxalic acid from the glycol....funny hu?

    Now the news of the day on poisoning is all abou them thousands of Chinese food manufactures doing their food up with dangerous stuff right?,. so scroll down to bottom of this glycol varience to see the poisonings over the years, June 2007 is already listed concerning Chinese Colgate toothpaste. Makes ya wonder don't it!!

    Diethylene glycol - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

  11. Posted · Report reply

    That synergist word is along right lines I think ken but again it could be possable that the term is misused or misapplied. It should mean that they work together to boost or react more. Would either glycol boost?. I can't say..my memory is truly shot..Again I turn to soaking in factor as I know that is very key. My floor stuff uses the mea and I assume it is mainly for buffering and soak factor and may not be the synergistic activation producing element...so I would ask what is the 2-butoxy element?. I have to assume it is the activator and is the same as ethylene glycol.

    Only three ingredients in what I am refering to..

    In yours Ken you may be doubling up without need. Maybe the mea is a cheaper solution doing same..Don't know..

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Ones toxic and the other less toxic apparently. Chaz, Second paragraph I mean to say that manufactures mix things to be stable..

    Ken, I think it is partially true what you heard from Russell in that I think various makeups of the glycols will not produce the kick we're after but with that said I do not know that standard ethylene glycol fits that bill. There is some confusion that I can't clear up in trying to address kicking off/catylizing the stripper element cause I am not a chemist. What I do know is that we can easily be confused between soak in factor versus reactive factor when adding chems together..The mea I mentioned would be example of giving soak in factor.

    We need Russell or Philip..LOL

    Ken, what is the purpose in having both the safer stuff and then the butyl in yer mix? Like are you under impression one does something the other does not or do you think the butyl is safe or different than standard glycol?

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Butyl Cellosolve

    note the confusing synonyms...again this be one of the few in my floor stripper..am assuming it be the standard toxic antifreeze or similar.

    ps. -Interesting quote from Wikipedia- "Ethylene glycol has seen some use as a rot and fungal treatment for wood, both as a preventative and a treatment after the fact. It has been used in a few cases to treat partially rotted wooden objects to be displayed in museums. It is one of only a few treatments that are successful in dealing with rot in wooden boats, and is relatively cheap."

    Now if I track down the exact name of what's in my stripper it is number nine down on the following list of glycol ethers in parenthesis (2-butoxy----) Glycol ethers - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia but of course the warehouse that produces the stripper is full of standard 55gal drums labeled ethylene glycol.

    So it has three ingredients: Potassium hydroxide, monoethanolamine (mea), and the glycol kicker. The mea is a buffer if not mistaken and when they mix it all together the potash is the heat, and the other two kick it off and allow it to soak in and emulisfy the gunk. This stripper although meant for other use than wood is the second most hottest I ever come across in 20 years on floor work. It is equivelent or better then anything in the general retail market/Johnson type acrylic strippers. The best stripper beyond that I ever found besides going to the obvious paint strippers (meth chloride type gels) is made by a company called Surtec out of Tracy, Ca. Not sure what additives they got in it but it was only solution that made it through a 20 coats plus concrete job one time for me. Did take double strip in parts... we tested about a half dozen products on that job prior to going to my old standby in Surtec..lol..but realize these I speak of are premixed and we can make our stuff hotter... within reason of course.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    In case some the droppings relate more to pitch/sap....For what it's worth off the Wolman site:

    "Pitch stains, or crystallized sap, found mainly around the knots of pressure-treated wood, can be removed with turpentine or simply scraped away. Turpentine will not harm an existing coating. Pitch is a non-water soluble, organic wood extractive material found in species such as Ponderosa, Southern and White Pine."

    Since your case may differ somewhat.. just maybe try a mild neutral ph cleaner like a car wash.

    What Charlie says should also be correct unless too much is used or other additives are in the mix.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    oooo..one my fav topics!....yes in my research it was Sierrahttp://www.sierraantifreeze.com/sstores.html /Peak found at Kragens, etc. http://cskauto.com/StoreLocator.aspx that wins out in the balancing act of pricing and availability. But you can go here for synonyms (meth): Propylene Glycol , Polyoxyethylene Nonylphenol

    ..manufactures often pick uncommom synonyms to help protect their recipes.

    I have an interior floor stripper that I use from a company only about 3mi. from my place. The raw ingredients we talk about for the wood is same and they are in 55gal. drums from a chem supplier that escapes me right now.. Sounds sorta like Chem store but it isn't. I'll get it next time I go in there. They have to be way better priced then Chem store rates or retail.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Accidents can really play heck with ya if your in the cycle where you only put a little good faith money down and then get upside down in the schedule being to long. You'll owe way more than they give ya and then ya still got to come up with a new downpayment.

    On the depreciation..one with actual expenses method, one with miles deduction...Can you say sitting pretty with heaps of receipts? :)

×