Jump to content

MMI Enterprises

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content count

    3,057

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Posts posted by MMI Enterprises

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Can you say boosted S/H ?

    http://www.wolman.com/pdf/datasheets/P_27_117.pdf

    Should be powerful but as Beth is getting at...is it cost effective compared to other availables?

    Whatever the case, Wolman has earned it's place in the market and the eyes of the consumer..they invented pressure treated wood you know..(wolmanized)... I'm Wolman Wood Care Certified Contractor and I think they do good work...(psst. most every woodie here is.lol).. :)

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Gel cells in starting battery format have been a disappointment for me in industrial equipment applications. They cost too much generally and lasted me no longer. They must be charged slower and at lower voltage to not be damaged. But that was in starting battery format so..

    The newer/better alternative for light deep cycles is AGM (glass matt) batteries.

    In regular flooded acid batteries the absolute best deep cycles are Surrette/Rolls, Crown, and then Trojan period.

    The Trojan is really your best choice between quality, price, durability, and weight for most applications commercially as the Rolls is more for long term power (15-20 years) storage like in huge arrays of solar alternative energy.Thing to note though is they weigh heaps and that is key. The plate abuse from the lead conversion back and forth beween charged and discharged is what wears batteries out. Before long lighter cheap batteries loose their materials and it falls to the bottom...

    The heavier the battery the longer it usually last as the plates are thicker.

    If ya can't afford quality of a Trojan 12 volt then just get a Sears deep cycle. They last 2 to 3 year in daily use.

    Also, if you want your batteries to last their longest you do three things...Charge them immedietely after use, use an auto charger that does not over charge in regular use(loose the acid), and then once in a while every month or so you equalize the stratified electrolytes between the cells by bubbling/over voltage charging them for a half day...(10% higher voltage)..my disertation for the day.. :)

  12. Posted · Report reply

    The problem is indicative of all your pines which is your PT. Also indicative of the alive part of the tree, the sapwood rather than the heartwood. Perhaps you'll have lesser amounts or longer periods between the leaching if you soak and clean the offending boards with turpentine. That is your remover for sap/pitch. Perhaps it will help the boards to be unclogged so to speak and allow it to come out evenly and unnoticed. Maybe they clogged like a big old zit from past coatings....just two cents.. :)

  15. Posted · Report reply

    umm. when you water them down your trying to rely on water to clean some the product away as if water is a suitable solvent for oil or oil based solvents. Part of the product as well as any mineral spirits used for cleanup of brushes, etc, are still there to evaporate out especially if your not using degreaser. Just rinse tarps if ya like before folding them and either throw rags in can if not too bad or rinse them in spirits and wring them out before placing in can. The goal is only to remove pigments and resins from them to reuse. You will be able to reuse as soon as they dry of the spirits. Take the can out of rig and place away from buildings with lid off to get things to dry.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    We got our pails and they were PERFECT with a capital P.

    Packed to pail perfection with no punctures. Pails were placed in plastic pouches (bags) with tight closures and packing paper filled in around them, then placed in boxes and packaged up tight. (did I get enough words that begin with "P" in there?)

    Way to go Scott Paul!

    Beth

    p.s. will report tomorrow on what I brushed on two boards.

    sounds about same packaging methods with plastic and all that that other "p" fella Peirce does with the RS.....Must be almost as much work as doing these "p"'s

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Kevin - it's what I mix the Raw linseed oil with - and I have tried my recipe with 4 or so different brands of Raw linseed oil. It's not a deck stain - but more of penetrant that's meant to soak into the wood. But it sure does look like a beautiful stain at first. Maybe I will try putting some trans oxide tints into - to see what happens.

    pssst..can't say for horizontals but many old painters swear by 50/50 boiled flax and TWS :)

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Next time, get it in writing. If there is no contract, you have little to go on.

    Rod!~

    I think since he has to have some sort of receipt when he paid and then a dated order for them to stop the ad that it will be up to them to provide a breakdown to a judge of exactly what service they provided to earn the full amount of funds. If there is no contract then I believe it be in Newheights favor. The ad people I delt with last week do not offer receipts via fax but my credit card charge will work just fine as such.

    Hey one other thing here..sometimes sales people are trained to use verbage that implies no refund but really all they mean is that THEY can't approve refunds and you will have to speak to a manager or the correct accounting branch of their company... People are sneaky at times..

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Yes you should be mad if you were not informed of a final editing deadline..

    If you paid by credit card maybe you can recover since for one your not getting what you were told you were going to get in final edit approval and heck they haven't provided and printed the later ads yet. Has to be some sort of cease and desist order you can do to prevent them false advertising you. Small claims should recover what wasn't provided after that point. You didn't sign any contract saying refunds for services not rendered will not be given..It requires agreement to not pay people back what they paid for but were not compensated for in the way of service or product is my feeling..

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Painter wear white cause in old days that was the main color and it didn't show.. it sorta stuck after awhile. My father always wore white and but was aways rather clean no matter what color he was using. His hair was always speckled though..

    I have been getting the orange V at the neckline lately from over atomization of my spray. Seriously thought about going orange outfits but I am scrapping the idea. Would look like an escapey from the prizon or Cal Trans workers. Gonna stick with white.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Anyone got a form showing a variety of selectable services offered that can be faxed or emailed to clients to fill out and send back? Maybe something letting them select a prefurred time frame for to give estimate or even an approval for doing a casual stop at their location as time allows.

    I got some people playing phone tag and email tag with me and need them to commit more to the process. Think such a form would also let folks know that your not ignoring them when ya just can't seem to hook up. PM's and Real Estate folk maybe the worst offenders. Probably weed out the non serious price shopper people that don't get it that our time, advice, marketing efforts, estimating efforts are not a game and costs us.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Well my goal here was to help people not hurt themselves is all..you know like in the field. Can't speak to shipping classifications or help you on that. But as far as the flash point thing goes it directly relates to how quik and how much the product gives up it's flammables in evaporation/turning to a gasious form...aka-volatile.. VOC content would relate to the topic.

    Check it out as a side note/trivia..you know a peanut will burn but it won't flash at normal environmental conditions right? They are high in carbs (energy)/peanut oil is why they burn. Will it combust? pretty sure at some point...just harder then regular vegitable oil. That why chinese folk and turkey deep fryers use it. During a spill with regular oil air combines with it to combust/burn at lower temps.

    Perhaps in getting back to topic we can agree maybe the best wording to use for RS is that it is not greatly flammable.

    Am not gonna throw a match in a fiver to see what happens as I've already tested a tablespoons worth and it puts out a nice mellow flame..nothing like gasoline or lacquer flashing though.

×