MMI Enterprises
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Posts posted by MMI Enterprises
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Best I got there is 53gal for $2.20 with $40 deposit. I looked and couldn't find anybody near you really but one would think there has to be. Did you check with Ace as some sell them in cases. Other than finding an actual chem supplier your best bet probably 10% from walmart.
Don't know much about the air thing.. :) I just use the regular twin full face for some jobs and then a half twin while burnishing floors.
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Goto Napa Auto and get the white Tyvek suit.They are cool and you will look really cool in them... :) ..or some of them carry the semi-used overalls.
I have a battery powered full face posative air respirator I would probably part with. I'll stick it on the Ebay if ya like. Likely to go for a c note on there though so it might be a bit pricey for ya.
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The type of oil that it is made with (baby oil) is not combustible. It doesn't have mineral spirits either. Like I said though call Peirce (I think that's his name) to be sure. I have hear rumor through the grapevine that some things have changed. I don't use it.wow there... it is so combustible!...says so right on the label in fact. Stick a match partway to it and you'll find out. ..burns just like a kerosene lamp it does. :) Spraying it could result in a more serious flame once you get air into it.
Anyone that uses oil based stains and solvents should always keep the rags, sheets, etc. outside away from buildings and actually have both a fire extinguisher and a lidded metal fire can (trash can) on board during transportation to store them in. Many solvents can self combust in the right conditions!!
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Scott, Thanx for clarifying what I meant on the pitched ends. ..Ln. Ft. x the triangles height /2 ... then add that to the main rectangles area below. :)
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Also, If you want to figure the pitched ends multiply the ln.ft. of the wall in question by the peak height and divide by 2. :)
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let's call him in middle of the night..lol
email pdf it to me Ron..cheaper that way
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its agaist the law to solicit in most areas? at least in my city it is.you can get permit to solicit. they are daily.
Yea I've heard they got some such thing round these parts too for at least the residential..doesn't apply to the act of dropping sales materials far as I understand it.
Applies to knocking on doors and actual meet and greet attempts.
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You shouldnt believe everything you readLowball rates thats funny, Cali & SC are worlds apart
No Jeff we are not worlds apart...Was meaning to be funny..I don't do 3 cent buildings...thaz just nuts. :)
Way I see this job is approx. 336 ln.ft. per building x 25' (height and eaves) x about $.07. I'd be nice and disregard pricing in the balconies or the pitched ends. I'd do 2 buildings per day with a helper and gross $1176 per day for 5 days...I'd ladder the balcony since it two story and shoot the rest from the ground.
3 story another ball game..
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Think some use an inhibited coil cleaner cycled through only parts of the system. I cycle diluted hydrochloric myself for a very brief period of like less than a minute and then flush real good with clean water. Fear being it will eat the metals...
Note this is a loop made only through the coil or directly through just the main hose and/or downstreamer. Am not brave enough to put it through the unloader or pump.
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come on ,he's pulling yer leg. :) .. chemical is gonna be half penny...what about gas, mickey d's, and pepsi? He musta meant half a dime..Jefffff....yer killing us with them lowball rates!! lol
ok... I'll go down to $.03
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Does it fail anymore so as an undercoat below a solid than anything else might?
I'de be inclined to take it off to avoid potential grip failure of the new stuff if it really comes off as easy as Rod says.
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I just talked to Jeff.. he said $.005 per s/f. (half a penny)My price would be $6997.77
you lie like a rug Ken...ROTFLOL :)
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Yes lol. no didn't mention pressure washing but it been in my blood a few year now as a tool for cleaning. Mostly that what people want is things clean and shiny. Tomorrow it will be a small concrete bird bath with the hand tools and exterior lacquer and then next week it will be 15k' of concrete floor with auto equipment and waterbase..oh the life of doing the grind....God we need help shooting the breeze here everyday don't we?..You do know most folks are so busy working they have no time for resumes.
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Doubt I can be much help but to further the topic can you tell us how many buildings, how many stories, is the 68k a single story interior measurement or did you already figure ln.ft. into sq. ft. to come to that ?
Depending on configuration and actual amount of wall footage I'd think job could be anywhere between $2k and $8k or more even.
I mean you could have actual sq.ft. only 20k or 40k with 10 single story bulidings 12' high or you could have double that with two stories.
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Think you really got to know your cost of materials per sq. ft. before you can consider being competative with using a sq. ft. method of pricing. Maybe you'll have to use 200 gal, 400 gal, or double that for two story..surely the condo king Jeff will jump in... shoot him a pm..
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Ken Thanx for tttt...
I like the way it is written to inspire. Does anyone pick up on or see a relation to the idea that we are not really selling jobs?. The 'selling benefits' or ourselves over competiton is the end game. I don't want to sell a job. I want callers that are already sold on getting job done and have some decent amount of prior knowledge on what things cost if that not too much to ask please..haha.
Hey Ken do you happen to know of or heard of this sales guru guy that goes around on talk radio explaining in depth the conflicted idea that you can't really 'sell' an item.? I am a bit uncomposed in being able to explain it so therefore I could use it...maybe shoot the guys name out if you ever run up on it.
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Does anyone read these threads or is "how much TSP should I add to bleach?" the more interesting topic. Just curious.Smart folks read them Ken or those that hang around....many others just don't have time as they be out there doing the grind.
I for one totally appreciate your business insight..Marketing and strategy seems to really be your element.. :)
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Ken,
Thanx for the background.. Wasn't questioning it though. Remember you brung theory into this concerning my experience...Since were offering resume's.. I've personally serviced commercial office, warehouse, retail, indistrial clients in route janitorial cleaning, floor care, carpet care, and widow care for over 20 years. I humbly would think you understand what kind of experience is gained from attending to such various types of locations night in night out(150+ arrivals in a month alone). I've serviced fine dine-in establishments, daycares, paint manufactures, salons, nastiest grease joints imaginable,parts warehouses. Way too much to list let alone remember.
Use what you like and what works for you or doesn't get you in trouble is my best suggestion...
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Ken, I'll take that as a friendly chop busting...and yup thanx for the congrats, The new one will make 4 (far as I know for sure anyways) :)
But back to topic..I really don't know what the deal though with you in refusing to understand there are indeed more than one or two tools for a job. I've already pretty much said my say on this trailer thing. I've explained I would prefure to see Jim try a car wash type product first cause in basic terms it may not be that bad. Your talking about theory and windows and gutters when, as I've conceded, we don't know what all is involved. Its a office trailer with grime. Hey if it's shiny or has many windows then don't use the tsp if ya like... :)
Far as our experience goes, I probably could guess at yours as well and claim all you say is theory.
True I haven't spent my carreer in exterior cleaning but whipty do da..lol
I bought my first 50lb sack of tsp 22 years ago for interiors and prior to that grew up watching my old man use it in his carreer as an exterior painter.
No real need to enter into appologetics for tsp on my part nor has there been much need to photograph its results. I could say however that your welcome to share up all them pics of tsp damage floating around. Just realize when I see them I will be asking what it looked like prior to cleaning, the strength used, etc...Have no idea or would not profess to know how it works on gutters.
Btw, last time I used tsp on a comparable application was last week to remove very heavy road grime/deisel soot from my shiny white trailer before painting it. Sorry I did not take a picture for you but I assure you it was still shiny as I messed up and did not mix strong enough to actually bite. It turned out really clean and white but I ended up sanding it to get some bite.
Other then that I used it in my deck mix for the recent arbor job pictured in my avitar.
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Thaz ok I'll pass...you can have at it since it on yer mind apparently.
Besides, Last I heard the magic in the air round here is blessing me with another one on the way. :)
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sounds like Amazon :corn:
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Yet another thesis on pressure washing from Mr.WizardI do aim my wand to please.. :)
ps.. hows that for a slogan/tag line?
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"Chem theory takes a back door to real world experience"
What's theory got to do with the topic? Last I heard it was fact that hydroxides can and do attack paint, butyl swells and softens vinyl and rubber, and professional painters and degreasing experts of all sorts of industry been using tsp for decades if not centuries actually.
As you always like to mention Ken it is all about dilution and proper use methods. :)
My experience tells me that when grime is so rough on a painted surface to where butyl based degreasers don't succesfully disolve it at a common sense dilution and the paints adhesion is in question due to multiple coatings over the years then I am presented with two choices.... I can go stronger with it and risk damage or I can use tsp and watch it disappear in a flash and a rinse with no damage beyond that which needed to come off anyways. Hypothetically a surface so heavily oxidized and dirty that a strong dilution of something is needed to remove is not a situation where we could expect a beautiful wax job underneith to all of a sudden be exposed.
But honestly I would just use a carwash first on this project cause really truly as fas as we know a mild surfactant hasn't even yet been tried. If case be his 'recipe' is SH alone then that answers the question. Bleach don't make a good degreaser..
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I doubt they do it out of neither your suggestion Scott but rather by way of giving a fella some credit. Credit in that a fella likely already knows most any chemical can do harm with the wrong procedures or dilution and credit in that since the fella mentioned "recipe" they likely already be using the chemical mentioned (aka-'the sauce') and have a grasp of dwell times, etc.. Facts are yes phosphates can damage and so can the three you mentioned. Sure at some point the use of some products may inspire a fella to give application and dilution disertation at great length but for most part it is not mandated here nor usually offered due to the nature of the chems we use not specifically being made for the expressed purpose of what we contemplate cleaning. Maybe the fella ought to just use trailer cleaner if he can find it.. :)My feeling is that much of what we do here on advice is open ended and demands further education or prior knowledge..i.e- "Use them sparingly and do not allow them to dwell long"..this of course is very open ended and begs for more clarification. Like one mans oz. is another mans cup or cup of tea.. :)
p.s.- Btw Scott, Can you say what's in F13?
Jim, Butyl based degreasers, such as some the purple type stuff', are not usually recommended for painted surfaces as they attack and strip. Butyl also swells and softens vinyl and rubber....I still use on some things though.
You might want to try some Armor All type car wash that is marketed to not hurt finishes.
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maybe stronger with the tsp for the road grime..
Advice spraying Ready Seal? 1st day Tommorow... Pics Attached
in Wood Cleaning & Restoration - Decks, Fences, etc.
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Ken,
Am just the messenger here. I didn't write it on the label..RS did...
Was not going to be the one to knit pick on the differences between a flame, a combustion, a spontanious combustion, or an explosion. Just gonna respect it.
But so you know, spontanious refers to reactions that will happen whether you do anything wrong or not.
As to your question about whether spraying makes something more combustable rather than flamable.. Combustion is when you introduce oxygenor other gas so answer is really both. You get flame from the mix of oxygen and the solvent.
Hey if someone wants to be picky about it we could refer them to the gasolene combustion engine versus the deisel combustion engine. Different flash points yadda yadda but they still combust. One by a spark the other by heat and pressure.
So anyways, Ken your the pressure guy.. you know the difference between a combustion and an explosion.. :)
ps- I used the term 'spontanious' when speaking to the overall picture of dealing with 'many' solvents and not perticularly relating it to RS. So not sure why you imply I said such..