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MMI Enterprises

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  6. Posted · Report reply

    About every couple month or so I set out an assembly line using 32oz. plastic cups, a wash bucket, and spray can of silicone wire dryer. One cup I put 50/50 mix hydrochloric and water, another I put a cup of baking soda and water, and then the wash bucket with clean water.

    I dunk most my fittings, tips, spray bars, downstreamer, etc. one by one through the line and then spray them with silicone. When the males look funky I rub them with 220 grit. When I feel real frisky I'll add water and then run the left overs through my coil with a flojet and dump the baking soda on my battery terminals. I don't perticularily do this for sticky quik connects but for to clean the mineral buildup out the insides of the barbs. :)

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Link to strengths and evaporation speeds of common solvents used in the painting and staining trades:

    solventreducerstrengthandspeed.jpg

    ICS on Thinner

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------

    Solvents, Thinners, and Diluents

    Solvents, Thinners, and Diluents; What's the Difference?

    Not a lot . . .if we're only concerned about liquids that evaporate. However, ask a paint chemist and you will be told that thinners thin or dilute and solvents dissolve other substances.

    Water, for example, is a solvent for sugar and salt. That is, water will dissolve sugar or salt. However, water is not a solvent for latex paints . . . it is a thinner or diluent. Water doesn't dissolve the latex resin; it simply thins or dilutes the mixture of paint ingredients. Likewise, water is neither a solvent nor a thinner when mixed with cooking oil. Chemists say the two are immiscible - they don't mix (remember the old adage, oil & water don't mix). Oil won't dissolve water and water won't dissolve oil. In this case, water is neither a solvent, thinner, or diluent.

    When paint chemists discuss solvents, they discuss the ability of liquids to dissolve other liquids or powders . . . such as the resin or binder in paint formulations. Paint chemists are also concerned about evaporation rates. If the solvents evaporate too fast, the paint will skin over before it cures. Wrinkles may form or a haze may form on the surface. If the solvents evaporate too slow, the paint will surface cure and trap the solvents inside, resulting in bubbles and blisters.

    Evaporation rate and flammability are closely related and the chemist must pay close attention when developing paints for commercial and do-it-yourself use. It only takes a small spark to ignite paints made with fast evaporating solvents.

    Paint chemists are also concerned about solvent costs and will often use more than one "solvent" in an attempt to balance expensive solvents with less expensive diluents. The chemists walk a fine line optimizing the paint's performance and cost.

    The chemists also consider other performance factors when deciding which solvents to use. They look at flow and leveling, affect on gloss, sag resistance, blush, bloom and haze resistance.

    Many of the solvents in today's paints and coatings are derived from crude oil during the refining process. These solvents are often referred to as petroleum distillates. Mineral spirits is probably the most widely recognized "paint thinner" which is refined from crude oil.

    The most common "solvents" include: Denatured Alcohol, Lacquer Thinner, Toluene, Acetone, VM & P Naphtha, Paint Thinner, Mineral Spirits, Xylene and M.E.K.

    Before we discuss each of these "solvents", we need to talk about strength in a little more detail. Solvents are rated according to their power or KB value. The name - KB - comes from a test known as the Kari-Butanol test which measures relative strengths. The higher the KB the more powerful or "hotter" the solvent and typically the more expensive.

    Most of today's paints are supplied as thin or thick as they should be for proper application. However, most labels do give instructions for thinning and/or clean-up. Its important to make sure you are properly informed about thinning paints. If the wrong amount or type of "thinner" is used, the paint will simply not deliver the expected performance and EPA regulations will most likely be violated. Ensure you use the right "solvent" by understanding each product and its recommended use(s).

    Denatured Alcohol is ethanol which has been modified with wood alcohol and other solvents to make it unfit for human consumption. Denatured alcohol is a solvent for shellac and a few less widely used natural resins. It may be used as a lacquer thinner, in small amounts, or as a clean-up solvent for paint removers used in wood refinishing. Other uses include glass & metal cleaning or as a fuel for marine stoves.

    VM&P (Varnish Makers & Painters) Naphtha is a petroleum distillate which resembles regular Mineral Spirits or paint thinner in strength. A low flash point and fast evaporation make it generally unsuited for air dry solvent borne architectural coatings. It behaves much like lighter fluid and can be used for cleaning up certain residues like masking tape or stickered labels - but be careful of the flammability.

    Lacquer Thinner, also a petroleum distillate, is a blend of solvents for use in nitrocellulose lacquers as a partial replacement for the more expensive Toluene. It is also used in some epoxy and automotive finishes, as well as in gravure inks for printing. The mixture is reasonably strong and fast drying. In addition to its stated use, lacquer thinner is sometimes used as a clean-up solvent for "oil-based" products and makes a good brush cleaner.

    Paint Thinner or low odor Mineral Spirits is made from petroleum distillates. Mineral Spirits is a general purpose solvent used in the manufacture of most oil-based trade sales paints. It is excellent for thinning oil-based paints, degreasing tools and general household cleaning since its flash point is above 100° F.

    Xylene, similar to Toluene, is also strong and fast acting but evaporates at a much slower rate than Toluene. Many oil/alkyd resins are made with Xylene and it is frequently used in aluminum paints to promote leafing. Even though its evaporation is slower than Toluene, it is too fast for most brush applications. Consequently, its use is really limited to paints applied by spray gun and as a clean-up solvent.

    Acetone, and other ketones, are not naturally occurring products . . . they are manufactured from petroleum distillates. As a group, ketones are versatile and efficient . . . usually imparting low viscosity very quickly. Ketones are often used in maintenance paints like vinyls, phenolics, acrylates and chlorinated rubber coatings. Acetone is a strong, fast acting solvent, cleaner and remover for inks, resins, adhesives and contact cement. It may also be used as a clean-up solvent after fiberglass projects.

    M.E.K. is essentially equivalent to Acetone in power, but is less soluble in water and evaporates slower. It is a strong, fast acting solvent, cleaner and remover for inks, resins, adhesives and contact cement.

    Turpentine is derived from steam distillation of pine sap and is the oldest solvent used in coatings. Paints around the turn of the century were made with white lead pigment, linseed oil, Japan drier and turpentine. Turpentine has limited use as it is more expensive than typical solvents. Plus it has a narrow range of solvency and possesses quite an odor. Like kerosene, its use in coatings is very small.

    Kerosene is a petroleum distillate that is used only when extremely low solvency and slow evaporation are desired. Possible uses might include paste wood fillers and putties. Old timers incorporated a little kerosene in interior and exterior "oil-based" house paints to supposedly improve brushability, wet-edge and flow by slowing down the over-all evaporation. With today's technology, its best use is as a fuel oil for kerosene heaters, stoves and lanterns.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Yea they make heaps of products now..maybe the goof off 2 is sufficient.

    I'd be careful with using butyl based cleaners or strippers near vinyl as industry discovered a number of years back it can swell it.(again..floors in perticular)

    ps- can someone verify what the original Goof Off is composed of? ...Acetone or Lacquer thinner..I forget..

    Link to solvent strengths and evaporation speed: ICS on Thinner

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Ok - I am ending this discussion with exactly what that is. And the reason I know because it is all over the deck boards on my new utility trailer. Those are little specks of iron from when someone did some metal grinding next to the wood. Even though it looks darkish - that's just the reaction with the rust and the chemicals in the pressure treated. If they scratch some of those spots - they will notice there is nodule or speck of something in the middle of each stain. And if they are lucky to scratch a big enough one - they will reveal the more pronounced reddish color that we all associate with rust. Tell 'em to use oxalic acid and it will clean it right up - mixed with a surfactant to emulsify it somewhat. Ok don't all run up at once with praises of genius.

    I don't think Ken's pics are of PT, but have seen what you describe when boards lay around on things like sheet metal or concrete. Not sure the effect necesarily points to iron but perhaps more to minerals in general that feed the growth..

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Don't think Goof Off is recommended on vinyl anything. If not mistaken it is acetone and will etch it.(does on vinyl flooring anyways)..

    What you been doing apparently is melting into it ever so slightly to remove the stain and by wiping it off you effectivley both mechanically and chemically end up resurfacing the vinyl to a shine. If you were to leave it on straight without wiping your likely to eat right on through it leaving a deglossed/pitted surface attractive to dirt. You'll be buying new siding in that case..

    How about mineral spirits/paint thinner?..think thats what folks use for oil base cleanup on most things. Hitting siding or latex with some soapy water after that is not a bad idea neither.

    P.S.-- if the shine is near the edges it could also be that you cleaned oxidation off and exposed some clear silicone type calking material that had been smeared..just a thought. :)

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Thats what they told me at BB and I bought the reader but the problem is, the photos are in the flash memory. I didn't want to unscrew the camera to ruin it (even though a 5 MP HP isn't worth a helluva lot) Can I remove the flsh memory or should I just wait for the cable to arrive?

    (Kev, sorry about the thread hijack)

    ah no prob long as we end up with more pics.. I'd say it depends on camera. Even some the cheapest things have a chip burried under a battery.

    I'd ask you to show us a pic of the cameras output jack to confirm it is a problem child but ummm you can't likely do that right now..lmaof :)

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Seems familiar out my way in that sometimes there will be all this airborne yellowish pollin floating around and sticking to things and then when it is swept or washed away you get this stuff where things had been moist. Seen it on cardboard and pieces of paper just as often as on 2x4's..

    P.S.- does look just like mildew as Beth says.. .. you know like on a window sill.. :)

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Rich,

    In my mention of past practices of aging wood abit before finishing being outdated I was refering to practice of waitng months not weeks to finish PT. Days or weeks unfinished is fine and is, as you mention, a recommended thing for wood subjected to the mechanical mill glazing. It is also recommended for to allow some lumber yard treatments to evaporate. Can't find specific info on that right now but I know Wolman talks about it somewheres in their literature while going through their certification and product education.

    As I understand it we have two or three things to worry about with new wood. Good old fashioned paraffin wax used during manufacture of PT, lumberyard treatment with preservatives, and mechanical mill glaze. I do not know how such conditions are placed upon the various areas of the country..Wouldn't doubt some portion of the talk below is Wolman tooting their horn and many lumberyard woods are raw..

    "The Wolman technology extends beyond pressure-treated wood.

    Wolman Wood Care Products is the industry leader in the protection of fresh cut

    timber, supplying sawmills with special coatings for raw lumber. In fact, there is a

    good chance you already have Wolman Products in your home now. Over 60%

    of the sawmills in the United States and Canada use Wolman Products. Leading

    window and door manufacturers apply Wolman millwork chemicals to strengthen and

    stabilize the wood used in their products. And homeowners can enjoy the beauty and

    protection that Wolman weatherproofing finishes give to their outdoor wood structures.

    From start to finish, understanding the wood market is Wolman® Wood Care Products’

    business and specialty."

    --------------------------------------------

    "Surface Preparation

    Q: If my wood is new, why do I need to clean it?

    A: Today's pressure-treated wood is made with more paraffin wax to protect it when it is stacked at the lumberyard. This additional wax results in a thicker waxy build-up on the surface. Cedar and Redwood species are often subject to a condition called "mill glaze", a burnished surface glaze that results after the fresh cut lumber is planed at the mill. The presence of these surface barriers prohibit a finish coating from properly penetrating the wood. Without proper penetration, exterior wood coatings cannot give optimum protection, and poor coating performance may result. Uneven finish appearance, premature fading or shortened water repellency life-span are common consequences that would normally not occur if a finish coating is properly absorbed. WOLMAN wood cleaners are specifically formulated to remove surface barriers from new wood, so that protective finishes can be applied immediately to prohibit any damage from water absorption, mildew growth and UV exposure. "

    -------------------------------------

    "For New Wood: Prepare the Surface!

    New wood installations may appear clean, free of contaminants and ready to

    coat, but appearances can be deceiving! Just as in the restoration of old wood, it

    is necessary to prepare the surface of the new wood before coating. Preparing the

    surface involves cleaning the brand new, uncoated surface in order to open the

    wood pores so that a coating can properly penetrate and adhere to the surface.

    Also, some new wood species, such as Cedar and Redwood, can harbor an invisible

    surface barrier called “mill glaze” that will impede the penetration of a top-coat.

    Mill glaze appears as a burnished surface, and is often present on new Cedar lumber, a

    result of the planing process it goes through at the lumber mill before shipping out to

    the wholesaler or retailer. By cleaning the glazed surface, wood pores are unclogged

    and opened, allowing for better coating penetration and adhesion, and ultimately

    longer, better performance."

    ----------------------------------------------

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Think it is said that the bleach cleans or gets rid of mold by way of the chlorine gas so go figure... maybe it like that saying 'ya can't have one without the other'.

    Ammonia is like a kicker or catylist and sets things off like all at once.. or something like that. If and when the dawn is mixed with percarb it can foam like nuts and cause an explosion if enclosed.....pssst , not a chemist, don't quote me.. :)

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Can't speak to WTW specifically but.. Although its been past practice to let some types of wood age a bit outdoors before sealing, most current wood care advice goes that it is best to get things stained and sealed the moment it is exposed to the elements to protect against dimensional changes. Some wood comes out the mill with a mild form of protection/glaze coat so surely that could be a factor on things.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Yes, big Big BIG PITA, but the results speak for themselves.

    Great jobs guys.

    Here is ours from another link.

    http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/attachments/wood-cleaning-restoration-decks-fences-etc/7657d1181300551-ipe-brazillian-cherry-furniture-ipepergola.jpg

    At least we could walk on it to do the top. No spray booth-ability for us. The whole area was flagstone patio below.

    Rod!~

    Mental note to self...everyone is speaking in singularity or past tense...lol.. CAN YOU SAY PITA?? :)

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