Jump to content

MMI Enterprises

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content count

    3,057

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Posts posted by MMI Enterprises

  1. Posted · Report reply

    If your using a film based (at any level) you will want to rinse the acid from the deck. An oil like Ready Seal doesn't require it becuase it forms no film therefore the salts cannot be trapped under the finish.

    Brighter under a film finish can cause a white haze to come through the finish. We had it happen on of all things a log home before when using Menwood and the only solution we could come up with is to strip and refinish.

    That along with what Russle said pretty much says it..is same reasoning why I must keep interior flooring neutral before acrylic coating..

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Sounds like a situation to learn from thats fer sure. I don't know how similar house siding is to vinyl flooring but Goof off products do etch into vinyl and butyl based strippers will warp. They got away from that by changing stripper mixes and/or vinyl makeup for years now. Since he has to not make matters worse yet still has to remove stains he has to use some type stripper blotted on real carefully only where the stains are. Potassium hydroxide is main stuff for vinyl flooring..personally I would lightly try Mr.Clean's Magic Eraser.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    In case the inside of coil tubing is being refered to.....

    How often is subjective to amount of use. Unhook a line and see if there is any buildup on the inside of tubing. Might want to clean it with coil cleaner if it gets thicker then say a thin finger nail or if there is noticable flow differenece or noticable heating difference. Personally I just hook a flojet up as a loop and cycle about a 20% mixture of hydrochloric through for but a minute or two.Then I change the fluid out and do it again until it comes out clean. I follow up with a fresh water flush before hooking lines back up...

  11. Posted · Report reply

    How about a review hijack..... :)

    Got my Honey sample yesterday.... tried it, and must say it sure is nice in many ways. Unlike some say, it is thinner compared to some others I been trying. It penetrates decent and seems to have high amount of pigment. Sits on surface abit more then some and but looks very even and highly pigmented. Very similar to Penofin or Cabbot Aussie on how it flows and spreads but doesn't stink near as bad as Penofin. The Aussie is thinner and I don't think it is geared to last as long. This WTW smells more like a nice interior paint to me. It shows the grain off on both rough or smooth redwood without over darkening it and one coat is way plenty on cedar. I won't mention how the overall look compares to another stain common on this board cause I am almost embarrssed for it at this point.

    But speaking about tips..I am all ears and wonder about thinning for lighter color or cross mixing colors...and then interested how it works for people using hvlp..

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Back to topic...

    To summize I see that it took awhile but it became apparent that paraffinics come by way of oil kerosene on into mineral oil which does not have to have parafin (wax) byproduct included. As RS website FAQ explains some products use the wax to bead water but that it is unnecessary and it evaporates away on first hot sun lit day anyway. The real barrier to element traffic into the wood is the oil and or binders/resins.

    Russell,

    In knowing that alkyd's are modified/changed condition of normally non-drying type oils into drying ones (boiled linseed) to create a film element to keep out the elements I get interested in the binder=resin discussion posed by Rick and how it applies in waterbased alkyds.

    At some point resins/binders have to be leaned towards emulsion to become supposed waterbased clean up and so I ask what can you tell us about the use of synthetic (hydrocarbon) resins in exterior waterbased stains? Does WTW contain urethane and how common is it in the market in other brands?

    From what I understand there are modified oil alkyds and there are modified oil based/water based alkyds and there can be much confusion between products. For instance can WTW be pinned into such designation much like Olympic Maximum 5 year deck,fence,siding stain(brown label/not green waterproofer) or the Cabot SPF24 can be designated into such a class?

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Keith, I been doing up samples on new dog eared cedar & redwood fence boards. One thing for sure is that the oil type products like RS on Redwood don't always show huge differences between hence like others seem to say you may only need a couple few colors...especially on old wood... What I did for my samples was I sanded one side smooth that way with any color I have a total of 4 different looks that can be seen on two boards. I spaced the colors every 3" and am upto over a dozen now (minus Woodtux..Honey sample hasn't showed up yet). Labels don't stick so I staple them to side of boards.

    Hijack...Anybody know of a paraffinic that gives a lite look like that of the alkyds on older wood?

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Been doing plenty of testing these past few weeks with various oil and waterbased stains through hvlp, flojet, and pumpup spraying methods. Was real eager to try out the 5 year semi transparent Olympic Maximum (brown label) which is an oil/waterbase modified alkyd (emulsion) for decks,fences, siding. Is not what some are trying in the 3 year Waterproofing Sealant product they also offer.

    First I chemically low pressure cleaned and brightened part of my fence last evening and then this morning shot the Omax through the flojet. Tried a 25020 and then a 25055 and had dismal results at trying to atomize the product with either. It showered out totally to my disliking and I ended up backbrushing and wetting fence to try and even out. Haha... I must say I like hvlp spraying by far and am better suited to that and so I can't blaim Omax really. I feel if I would have achieved an actual spray that the time messing around would have been minimized.

    When it goes on it looks like a solid which made me really want to get a real even coat. Found it impossable with what I was using. Is no wonder why HO's trying it with a pumpup could get blotchy results.

    Cleanup was a pure PITA... soap and water cleanup yea right!!. Got to get it real fast if you want clean up like standard waterbased products is my feeling.. What a sticky mess. Much rather cleanup oil with spirits then this stuff. Results stink but I include pics for your pleasure just the same :)

    This product needs two coats and/or a good spray while applying is my feeling.. Do like the color though....

    Now I really want to hear if anyone has had good results of putting this waterbase product through a wand/pump setup as Shane uses. Diluting it down with water by 50% or more may work since it did start to spray better while flushing my hose line and wand...

    Results of one watered down backbrushed coat stink but I include pics for your pleasure and to see what the natural cedar color looks like:

    post-2209-137772178989_thumb.jpg

    post-2209-137772178995_thumb.jpg

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I had same setup until I changed some parts such as the vac type heater switch. Had so many problems with it firing that I went to a much more reliable flow based switch. But anyways the vac type come with a restrictor inside a hose barb right there where everyone says about checking your filter.

    Check that also for a clog and check your hose clamps..can't be sucking air..

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Also interested in more info and a supplier on this wand setup. No way I could ever question this things ability in the hand of a master as Shane but it may help some of us to know if it at times it may put out a drip or two from the tip while spraying with certain pump flows or psi ratings. I fear how much drip and over spray protection to plan for. I want to spray and not shower things. With hvlp adjusted properly I can get almost no overspray and 0 drips via thorough atomization. Whether the Shane wand/pump setup sprays or showers I surely see the production value and reaching ability of it...Just need to know what to expect is all.

    Seems if I decide to use various stains through a fickle system that I could have problems. Not saying it is at all fickle cause I never yet tried it of course but from what I see in hand brushing sample boards and garden type sprayers and noting product thickness difference between stains I can say I am considering not offering too many product choices to customers. As example, Cabot aussie oil is way thin and runs pretty good and but Spf is way thick. Omax a bit fickle on the runs also. Just takes more time to adjust system to be error free I would think.

    The smelly Penofin and RS type parrafinics seem the easiest to apply without runs or laps..

    Shane, can you offer any more advice on what does or doesn't work with your wand/pump setup?

×