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MMI Enterprises

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Posts posted by MMI Enterprises

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Alright.. below is pic of the real King Kevster's 20" Velvet Elvis. I use it on vinyl and concrete flooring to scrub or strip acrylic. They come in most sizes to mount to an industry standard floor polisher/buffer. They come in a few different grits with the bristles being impregnated with abrasive. A medium level one or a worn out one will work great on wood without leaving an abundance of swirls. Pads can also be used but they shread when they hit unlevel spots and don't last long...This thing will last you years and years and they goby the trade names stratgrit or nylogrit..

    About the best source or price for one is from another King:

    CleanKing.com : Product Details : vacuum cleaners, janitorial supplies, floor machines

    post-2209-137772178801_thumb.jpg

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Ok so being inspired by Chris and his 'Apple Sauce' and Don and his 'Phelps Wand' I thought I would challenge myself to come up with a rename of a common product I luv and hold dear that also happens to be under utilized in the deck restoration field. You know sort of a claim to fame so to speak...:lgwave:

    The product I speak of addresses the need for a fast and efficient way to defurr/defelt/develvet/depeachfuzz/etc. large open decks following heavy chemical stripping. Until this product was found out by none other then King Kevster(the original Me Myself & I by the way) folks had to use sanding blocks, Ozborne brushes, random orbit sanders, angle grinders, screen sanders, and floor polish machine mounted scrub pads, etc. etc.

    I been into this item religiously and cleaned with it for near on 15 years of my 20 year career in the interior floor care business... Here it is... the 'King Kevster's 20" Velvet Elvis' ...unveiled for the first time ever for your commercial use. Just mount it to your favorite hook and loop sander of choice and you to can be like the King :lgmoneyey :

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    post-2209-137772178795_thumb.jpg

  9. Posted · Edited by MMI Enterprises · Report reply

    WHY YOU NEED 30 GAL?. THAT IS A BIG APRON!!...

    About a cup per gal. straight.... For downstreaming you have to work the numbers based on your downstream draw ratio. So with a 20% (5:1) downstreamer you'll need like 5 times the amount of oxalic in yer supply tank. Problem you may find is that of getting the water to hold that much chemical.

    If you don't have a shurflow/flojet setup then you can use an all plastic pump up sprayer of even one of them plastic plant watering pitchers for the garden to get it on straight...

    Formula for figuring stuff would be as such:

    "take c (desired tank percentage) x the flipped fraction t (desired tank volume) over b (starting chemical percentage) "

    Formula being C x (t/b)

    for you it be something like this: c= 500% (considering downstream dilution), t=30 gal., b= 6.25% (1 cup per gal converted to percentage)

    which would = 4.8 gal of oxalic to 30 gal water..

    I could be way wrong though with the numbers..sorry

    http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/residential-pressure-washing/10204-12-5-sh-quesiton.html

    -------------

    p.s. 7/13/09

    WTF!..wish I knew what I was thinkin when writing this. Although the formula listed works for cutting stuff it appears I stuck wrong numbers in or in wrong places for concentrating the acid for downstream use. Thinking figure shoulda been like 9.35 gal if making an enormous 30 gal batch of concentrate.. But that could be wrong as well, LOL. How come people don't say somethin if they know math and it's use is wrong?

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Great write up Russel!!! Have never heard it all in one place like this before. Truly supreme work!!.... Do you mind if I tack some of that info onto the ph level thread I did of common chemicals in the 'chemical section'?

    "This is an unnatural state for the wood and in a short time the natural colors in the wood will migrate or shift away from the surface of the wood. This can result in an uneven or splotchy appearance. In some cases the shift can be such that the wood will take on a whitish “dead” look."

    My RS test boards on redwood show a little white as described above... our main wood out here is redwood and cedar.

    Also, Russel.. I still have not received my samples????

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Let's say someone handed you a job. They already sold your expertise, commanded a nice dollar for the the job and customer wants to book with you or whomever is qualified and wants the lead. How much would you pay for that? Please be serious about your answer. You have no marketing expense, no time spent estimating, no sales call.. nothing. Everything is done for you.

    For a non reoccurring one time job the salesmen usually gets 5-10%. If job is perticularly lucrative and salesmen really outdone theirselves then upto 20%.

    If job is reoccurring and to be on a new contract that you must actually sell to client then 3-5% per time. This amount usually gets padded into the new contract amount and so not you, your salesmen, nor your client is shorted.(of service)

    If job is reoccurring existing contracted job then company A can sell job to company B for some fair market value. Common is 3 to 6 times a monthly invoiced type job. (labor portion likely only apply in this field)

    Leads, one timers, and routine work are all different animals. Salesmen make bank on reoccurring stuff

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Paul,

    To help head Larry's wrath off at the pass I'll advise you that you might have misread him. I think he neutralizes/brightens but doesn't rinse it off is all..

    Only reason I rinse it off on the little bit of wood I have done is cause for one I've mixed it real strong and was using as a cleaner/pore opener prior to pressure washing very light graying or dirt off easy wood jobs. (Why use cleaner if it is already clean was the point..) And for two cause I have seen plenty of non rinse related issues with interior surface coatings. If these deck jobs that a bunch of you do were of the film forming type I'd about bet the house that most would see some ph issues. Just doesn't seem to matter to some here so maybe I won't bother rinsing the penetrating stain jobs.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    For 2x8 the factor is closer to 1 :

    ..to correctly figure a 2x8 10' long you have to first convert the underlying inches ( 1.75 x 7.75) into decimal.... .14583 and .6458 . So then take 10' x .6458 x 2 sides =12.916' + 1.4583 exposed edge x 10' = 14.3743' per joist. A 200 sq. ft. deck- 20' x 10' deck having about 14 joist would be 201.24 sq. ft. of joist which is almost same as top or bottom sq. ft.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Ken, that sure is a power point..haha... couldn't resist the pun :)

    Seems valid enough way to consider a bid to me if ones sq. ft. rate is decent.

    When I bid other type of work I usually get very close to competition by taking an average between differing bid methods. If an average hourly production rate for Sq. ft. size is known or minute based production rate per item can be formulated we can average between the two. Apply the figure to a workmans hourly wage and we get job labor cost. Add overhead, taxes, and material costs onto that as a percentage and we get total job cost. Add this industries perticular profit margin as a percentage and we get total bid amount...But you know and practice all that for sure..

    Been 60%,10%,30% fer me in other fields but this industry has higher material & labor costs with a differing profit margin so I got to change the figures a bit...

    For instance daily janitorial of 10k or larger offices had been based between 4.5 to 6.5 cents per sq, ft. per mon. In considering low wages of about $7 the total bidding was about $12 an hour for many years. So in that field if folks wanted contracts they would average between sq. ft. and hourly to get close to others bidding.

    Every time Ken speaks I learn a little more it seems. He dishes out all the important factors .. :)

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Daniel,

    After sleeping on it a bit I come back and immedietly think I see reasons behind the discolor besides the resins/tannins lasting better near the house due to more shade...

    In first picture it seems roof line has no gutter. The rain runs (or blows) right off onto deck if this is true and coats it with none other than good old fashioned asphalt oil. Second picture shows that roof design/pitch wouldn't call for any gutter but it seems to me that the roof still to blaim. Being the ladder is in the way it is hard for me to tell if area to the right is just as dark as near bbq. What time of day did you take pics? Did you have to wait for sunlight to fill deck in or did it fill in after? What direction does deck face? Depending on the time you snapped them maybe we can say that deck gets plenty of sun. Shadows of the railings and underneith would point to them being morning pics if it a North facing deck. Still not Summer yet so pics I took recently of North side decks show a shadow almost all day right now..Just makes me think even more that weathering is not main problem and the roof is to blaim..

    A water sprinkle test for absorbtion along with hydroxide test (oven cleaner) perhaps could have told you to strip the deck as Ken mentions....

    Not meant to be harsh... I think we all should help each other best we can and that's all I got.. :)

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Seems the shaded area has more natural tannins/resins and it either causes ph reaction or a stacking of the stain. Can anything be done other then sanding?.. Heck will that even work? Maybe a 2 coat wet on wet spray of the faded area blended over to a diluted single coat on the shaded area would look different..Or maybe less neutralizing of the faded area...I don't know, I don't see drips Rod sees and think it looks decent..so..

    I

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Robbie,

    Below is part of a FAQ via The Brick Industry Association Bia Offices and the South Western Brick Institute. Perhaps it will help you understand the differences and requirements that should be present in selection of a sealant, stain, or paint in allowing outbound water vapor trasmission versus inbound moisture transmission. Mind you no one is saying that it must be sealed though.

    Genuine Fired Clay Brick

    Should brickwork be painted?

    A brick wall may be painted, provided the correct preparation is done and the proper paint is applied correctly. Generally, new brick walls are not painted. But they can be. However, the wall should be allowed to fully cure for 28 days and shouldn’t be cleaned or treated with acid solutions. You’ll need to use alkali-resistant paints. You may also need a zinc chloride or zinc sulfate solution to neutralize the surface.

    Painting brick doesn’t compensate for improper construction and detailing practices. Any deficiencies -- surface deposits, broken brick, inadequate flashing and weep holes, and cracked, loose or missing mortar -- should be corrected prior to painting. In addition, the brick should be thoroughly cleaned and given ample time to dry before applying paint.

    For brickwork to function properly, the wall must resist moisture penetration and be permeable to vapor from the structure. Any paint applied to the wall must also have these same characteristics. In addition, the inherent features of a brick wall that channel water out, such as weep holes and vents, must not be clogged by paint or caulk that would inhibit the flow of water.

    Latex and Portland cement-based paints perform well on brick walls. Oil-based, alkyd, rubber and epoxy paints don’t allow any vapor in the wall to escape and, consequently, shouldn’t be applied to brick. Prior to painting, the brick should receive a prime coat suitable for the paint application, per the manufacturer's instructions.

    Should a water repellent be applied to a brick wall?

    Generally, water repellents are only an interim solution to water penetrating a brick wall, since they lose their ability to repel water one to 10 years after they’re applied. It’s also important to keep in mind the inherent nature of water repellents.

    There are basically two types of water repellants: films and penetrants. Films, such as acrylics, stearates, mineral gum waxes, urethanes and silicone resins, form a thin membrane over the brick. Penetrants, such as silanes, siloxanes and blends, actually penetrate the brick surface. Films are good at repelling water, but poor at permitting water vapor transmission, which allows the wall to breathe. Penetrants, on the other hand, are good at both. They usually have a matte finish, while films may produce a higher sheen. Penetrants also allow any water present in the brick to exit the wall. However, penetrants will not provide graffiti-resistance to a wall, while some films will.

    Applying a water repellent does not compensate for improper brick construction and detailing procedures. Any deficiencies in a brick wall, such as inadequate flashing, weep holes, mortar joints or broken brick, should be corrected prior to the application of a water repellent. The wall should also be cleaned and allowed to thoroughly dry before using a water repellent.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Best advice I ever did ever hear ever.. !! :)

    The only thing left to talk about on it is how adding gpm creates higher size requirements of accessories like hose, gun, persons arms...lol..j/k

    No but really it is worth noting that with a cold version or dc burner setup you can get away with less engine size to run the larger pumps. Data formula sheets are available online to figure it...maybe on Hot Water Wizzard or Delco.

    For instance I am about maxed out with an 18hp running an AC-Diesal burner on a 5gpm. It requires generator that takes a few of the hp from pump. If I was dc I could maybe push a 6gpm.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Simply put...

    A professional is a person that achieves the most in the least time.

    All else is technicalities of what a perticular job title is charged with achieving.

    p.s... therefore I am unable to vote in this poll..to be clear, everyones position demands image, social & conversation skill, and actual labor/duty skills...trust me I learned the deeper point of how an actual supperior result (as it relates to time) equals a professional through much delving and conversations with professionals from many fileds..trust me :)

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Ken, If I may comment within to help clear up misunderstanding...you have me backwards due to the simple little word "monthly"..

    Originally Posted by Pressure Pros
    Originally Posted by MMI Enterprises

    Don't kid yerselves too much...ACCOUNTS AND ROUTES CONTRACTED OR NOT ARE ALWAYS WORTH MONEY.. A business up and running that can show gross receipts with proper profit & loss info and an active ongoing schedule is going to be worth at least it's depreciated asset value plus some factor of it's monthly gross receipts. (3 to 6 is common).

    (EXAMPLE- A 120k per year gross business = 10k per mon. "monthly gross receipts".... so common accounts value is at least 30-60k)

    I want some of what you're smoking. I offer one times a company's annual gross and that's if it is an established bricks and mortar retail operation. -(Here I agree and say your right on if established and can run on its own with management..If let's say yearly profit for service business is somewheres between 20-40% then we get these figures:

    120k

    20%=24k

    40%=48k)

    I have always used that formula. Some businesses might be worth more, but I wouldn't buy them. (because it becomes about speculation?.. which was my main point) You might be thinking of 3 times net earnings? (Net earnings at 20%=24k x 3= 72k or at 40%= 48k x 3= 144k ...so no for me since I was speaking of really only the account value. It be close for you though as a fully intact self supportive business that requires only a little bit of baby sitting. Equals about what you would pay- 1 times the gross of 128k as you state above) For a service business I would probably offer .25 times its gross earnings if the company ran tight with good margins. (Don't understand this at all as it conflicts- 120k x .25 = 30k = not even it's account value)

    Originally Posted by MMI Enterprises

    To say that a business without much size has no name value would not be true. It's customers and it's potential customers of its service area place a name value to it.

    Yes, but not much value. A business has value when:

    • It has been narrowed down to a group of hands-off systems.

    • When every problem has been solved before it arises.

    • When management and internal structure are honed and efficient. (ie every job title is defined) (I sort of agree in the sense that for a business to be worth more then it's assets it must be self supportive to the point of being able to withstand trying times or be able to limit or manage tangeable or untangeable market effects..They all have problems no matter the size)

    Originally Posted by MMI Enterprises

    Profit is profit and in the end when someone is buying a business the end numbers is what matters as to whether it is profitable to buy.

    Not totally true.. More important to me (ie more valuable to me) is how well an investment generates income with minimal interaction on my part. (aka. non participating investor.. a savvy one would not over pay for speculations beyond a certain amount unlesshe is already filthy rich and wants a toy like a baseball team..)

    Pressure wahsing businesses have two major downfalls working against giving it sellable value.

    1) Cheap startup means the market can get flooded and drive down net earnings (This applies to almost every service business. Remember I am coming from a janitorial back ground which is almost the king of such flooding theory...we should not worry about that as folks like us are of high quality work, planning, and we limit our material risks..people (mom/pops) still buy franchises galore from Janiking or the like don't they?)

    2) 98% of them have very high level of owner interaction for daily operation. That's a job, not an investment. (A job doesn't entail owning assets (accounts, equipment, etc.) nor can it be passed onto others or sold...but I get your point :)

    ....

    My view point is not much different than yours if you boil it down really. Difference being that I would seriously boil the numbers down into consideration of what goes on withthe numbers monthly and work up from there on value of other assets. I would never look at a company on the surface and think it in order by looking at the people first then the money figures second. I have seen plenty of business sold for heaps and actually worth less then account/sales value due to legal burdens that follow the new owners or changing trends not accounted for. You can loose shirt if you buy a company that makes buggy whips.. But so anyways my view of the boiled down figures comes from speaking with folks that actually sell business's out here on left coast. Has to be taken with a grain of salt I suppose.

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