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MMI Enterprises

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Posts posted by MMI Enterprises

  1. Posted · Report reply

    can someone help out with this?

    thanks,

    michael

    First it needs to be decided how strong you want it. Like how many oz. per gal .

    Then you have to work it into what draw rate your xjet gets based on your machines gpm. Think a 4pm can get 2 gal per min. and a 5 like 1.6 gal per min. or some such.. Got to test it really.. I just flojet it on my self.

    You can use the formula info found below to try and see if xjetting brighteners will be strong enough for crete :

    ... worked on some ratio formula here:

    http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/residential-pressure-washing/10204-12-5-sh-quesiton.html

    ..or xjet specific here: House Wash with an X-Jet, with recipes for outstanding mixes!

  3. Posted · Report reply

    For sure I totally agree... would not doubt at all if I heard that the same base oil is actually in 99% of all the oil base out there and the other 2% are pure natural/organic drying and nondrying oils. The term like any other fancy play on words has come to mean in this industry that which penetrates with said ultrafine oil base but does not leave hard to remove drying oils. That a fair statement?....not sure what other oils or resins the TWP has so not adding without more research. Penofin (includes rosewood oil) might not really qualify neither in some folks mind cause it might not have the same base that others qualify the definition of paraffinic with. Although a little hokie, the blotter test they have on their site that compares all the biggies to their product shows the penetration as being supperior..bUtya know how marketing is. It's like yea just cause I got a kitchen full of ingredients don't mean I can cook..

    STAIN ON!!..carry on :)

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Yea woodies get stuck with all the problem situations created by well intentioned DIY home owners.... better do as Ken says and do the testing Bill. Write your tele number with the stripper and they are sure to take your bid..haha j/k :)

    Think I'll plan on a wood specific test kit consisting of ingredients to make percarb modified 'apple sauce' on the spot, oven cleaner, boosted hydroxide, jasco in a small metal can, lacquer thinner, oxalic acid, paint brush, 3m scrub pad, scraper, rags, gloves!, maybe some plastic sheet to cover dwell.

    A wipe with the 3m be about equal to mid pressure rinse with pressure washer?

    I'm all ears for what others carry also...

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Try to have various things available....Can be a mistake pulling it out on every job though. Only pull it out when it looks real hairy of a situation or it is obvious that customer doubts the result you speak of otherwise a few things can happen.

    1. It may not work due to mix ratios or dwell time or improper selection.

    2. It could look too easy to customer and theycould start to wonder why they got you there in first place.

    3. And it can make you look like you've never handled such conditions on a surface before hence they will loose trust in your abilities.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    I'm hoping that you can help me with trying to remove a white powder like substance on a brick retaining wall. ........and they could not remove it with just water.

    Ken is likely right on..Since it is white then it not actually concrete powder splashed up from rinsing and so there is good chance it is salt effloresence directly from brick, if it is really stuck good, or was leached up out of slab and simply oversprayed to it since it is new concrete curing out. Driving water into surfaces can cause these issues or caustic chemicals can cause it. It is not uncommon to keep water on new concrete or to seal it right away by spreading flakes/powder or spraying liquid acrylics. The process is called curing and moisture is purposely kept in the crete. It gets stronger by slow cure.

    Mild hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) should work and but sodium hydroxide/lye (which is alkaline cleaning component in things like drano, oven cleaner, etc.) could make it worse. Do a small test spot with both. If it just comes off with the hydroxide and doesn't come back after good and dry then the powder could have been just powder sealant.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    some sealers can be sited as having paraffin wax cause they may bead water temporarily...

    Penofin® Wood Finishes FAQs

    Does Penofin wood stain bead water?

    Water beading is accomplished in most wood stains by adding wax (paraffin). As soon as you get one hot day, your finish will no longer bead water because the wax melts. Penofin does not need to bead to protect.

    Welcome To Readyseal.com

    Why does product stop beading water?

    After the product has completely soaked in, the beading will stop. This does not mean that it has stopped performing. Ready Seal is made to spread water out so it will dry up as quickly as possible. It is still keeping water out even though it is not beading water.

    ..Paraffin wax is by-product of petroleum distillation of kerosene as is mineral oil and many other oils in our everyday life-

    kerosene: Definition and Much More from Answers.com

    Paraffin - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

    ..The term paraffinic oil directly translates to mean kerosene or from kerosene in basic terms but surely what is in the replenishing type stains is something in between the two synonym prone items of straight kerosene and crayola crayons.....lol... my kids unwrap them crayons and stain wood with them pretty good..haha

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Aside from one series of TWP, forget maybe the 100?, do not know of any retail paraffinic oil. Could not get that TWP here in NJ so never used it. The base oil I believe is produced by Amteco, which I believe is the same as Shane's Bakers Gray Away.

    Who had it made?. Cause apparently Ken sells it and was implying elsewhere that it was somewhat different then the various models of TWP. I also assume that as reason why some one mentioned twp not belonging as a paraffinic oil in the 'experienced on the deck' thread. Worked on that thread heaps and heaps all day and have that part straightend out about the paraffin oil vs/ paraffin wax. I read almost everything under the sun on Answer.com,wikipedia,etc. about kerosene,mineral oil, paraffinoil, praffinwax, synonyms & misuse etc.,..yadda yadda..and oh yea , alboline..great makeup remover/personal lubricant :)

    Revisit that thread if ya get the time...can't do it all on my own..

  10. Posted · Report reply

    3 to 6 mon. gross as long as they good customers of at least a half year or so and on at least a 6 mon. contract that contains proper legal verbage to bind them to you. Real Estate contracts or options sometimes include such with User/Agent lingo but I have never actually seen a good example in this type service industry. Have seen subcontracting stuff over the years from franchisers or 3rd party mangers like Jani King or Johnson Controls but that isn't quite the same as they usually are still in control or doing the accounting while the accounts are being paid for on a time basis.

    1K is small amount so I wouldn't worry about it much.

    Cleaning service type businesses don't go for much more then mentioned unless equipment, employees,materials, name, etc. is coming with them.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Yea. I sent email to him as soon as you provided it..thanx..

    Went to HD and no go on the Penofin brand stuff due to VOC compliance they got rid of it. Am not all that impressed with it on neighbors fence other than sprinkler protection. (just seen that Ace/True Value has it).. HD got Thompson's and some stuff called Preservawood that might be along the line of non drying replenishing product.

    What your thoughts on the Thompsons?

    If I had some more brand names that might be supplied out here I may find something suitable for the goal of feeding the wood rather then coating it.

    Mind you I have not checked with paint stores yet for a parafinic but someone must have readily available.

    It is dismal out here really. If you drive down streets in fancy areas you usually see either new slightly treated wood, gray wood, or darker stain. If you drive in run down areas you see gray wood, blotchy half stripped honey colored HO jobs, or a little new wood that is untreated.

    Not sure how suitable Woodrich Timber wood be for my needs as I've heard nothing on how it does on redwood.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    update 4/23/07:

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------

    Exterior Wood sealants and/or stains and what we know about them

    1. broadly termed as oil based products= RS, WTW, Baker's Gray Away, Sikkens SRD, Cabots, Deckscapes (Cuprinol), CWF, Penofin, house brands from (MAB, Sherwin Williams, Ben Moore, Wolman's F&P, TWP)
    2. natural drying oil products (i.e. tung, linseed) : Superdeck
    3. alkyd oil based (synthetic resins)= Cabot Solid 1600/7600
    4. alkyd oil based (synthetic resins) + drying oils= Cabot (7400,AUtimber oil, clear solutions,etc.)
    5. modified alkyd (emulsion/oil-waterbase)= OMax ?, WTW?
    6. acrylic latex (waterbased) = Cabot Spf,Cabot Solid 1800
    7. contains petroleum distillate oils/paraffinic oil (kerosene)rendered mineral oils or exhibits low viscosity penetration abilities (replenishing type products that usually need not be stripped prior to reapplication) = RS,TWS (may need stripped), BGray, WR Timber, penofin (brazilian rosewood oil) , Preservawood?
    8. silica densifier product (non-strippable)= Sealmax, One Time?
    9. topcoat/film forming= Cabot's,Omax, Sikkens Deck & DeckBase
    10. exhibits temporary water beeding due to wax additions such as paraffin wax (bi-product of kerosene) melting or evaporating on hot days: RS, Penofin
    11. marketed as permanent and/or lasting 7+ years= One Time? , Sealmax
    12. low sheen= RS,WTW, Sikkens SRD
    13. high sheen= RS(multi-coat), Sikkens Dek, WTW (multi-coat)
    14. clear tintable transparents= Cabots Clear, Sikkens?
    15. available mail order only= WTW, RS, BGray
    16. available from major nationwide distributors/big box/retail= SD, Superdeck, OMax, Mwar, Cabbot, Sikkens, Penofin, Wolman's F&P
    17. not available to California=
    18. under $30 per gal.= RS,WR Brand,WR Timber, Sikkens SRD, Cabots (all), Bgray(contractor pricing ?), Deckscapes (Cuprinol), MWar, OMax, house brands from (MAB, SW, Ben Moore, Wolman's F&P, TWP) , Penofin Blue
    19. under $50 per gal.= WTW, Sikkens DEK, Penofin Ultra, One Time ($80)
    20. marketed as only requiring one initial coat= Penofin,OMax
    21. usually needs stripped/or sanded before reapplication= OMax, CWF
    22. lasts more then 1 year on ipe=
    23. must be thinned to spray with non-airless type sprayers=
    24. should be sprayed with professional atomizing sprayers to prevent top coat finish flaws or adhesion problems,etc. in film forming type finishes= ??? (i.e.- high solid catalyzed polyurethanes or catalyzed lacquers)
    25. can be applied with pump up sprayer= RS
    26. no back brushing or working in required= RS
    27. can be water diluted prior to application= WTW
    28. can be applied to wet wood= WTW, Cabots SPF
    29. accepts foot traffic within 2 hours= RS,
    30. accepts foot traffic within half day= RS,
    31. accepts foot traffic within one day= RS,

    RS=Ready Seal

    TWS=Thompson's Water Seal

    WTW=Wood Tux Wet

    WR=Woodrich

    TWP= Total Wood Protectant

    SW= Sherwin Williams

    SD= Sherwin Williams Deckscapes

    OMax= Olympic Maximum

    Mwar= McCloskey Man O War

    BGray= Bakers Gray Away

    CWF= Flood's Clear Wood Finish

    Format should stick if you just quote the person before you.

    end--------------------------------------------------------------------

    How about some more additions and placement info on which are film forming and need stripped before reapplying, etc. , or things in error.. :)

  16. Posted · Report reply

    I mean like we might as well talk about something while that deck ages right Rick?

    So Paul has not posted since Oct... he is a wealth of knowledge and would like to know how his search for another wet application stain besides wood tux went.

    Also in reading that old poll thread that quote came from I see that James doesn't like to put on anything that needs to be stripped. I sure would like if either of them could share some more insight on the non film forming products that are readily available at popular national distributors. Without keeping an inventory on hand I really need more options then RS.

    Penofin was mentioned in that thread by Paul and going by it's name it sounds to be along the lines of not needing to be stripped?...sound sorta like parafin anyways..lol.. It is available to me supposedly at my big box stores (nope,not at HD no more..voc situation apparently) as my neighbor has it in brazilin rosewood on our adjoining fence. Looks awesome for over 2 years now on north facing boards. Sun side boards are pretty dry though... we get alot of sun out here.

    Who knows anything about the Penofin, McCloskey Man o war(walmart), Olympic Maximum?

    p.s. - well judging by this recent thread and the south facing boards on neighbors fence Wood tux or RS is way to go-- http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/wood-cleaning-restoration-decks-fences-etc/9837-need-some-help-w-ipe.html

    p.p.s. - ok so what's the down the road story now on the Olympic Max since it changed due to VOC compliance? http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/wood-cleaning-restoration-decks-fences-etc/5053-advice-stains-locally.html

  17. Posted · Report reply

    p.s... apparently I not the only one traversing the mountain to RS..

    One thing that is curious about Ready Seal:

    They didn't (don't) offer color charts or the fan type wood color sampler (like TWP or SuperDeck). Or has that been changed?

    I was going to make up a sampler package on photo paper from the color selector on their web site but their quality has a lot of room for improvement. (I'm aware of all the hazards of color variations but I like to have a basis or point to start from.)

    I was told I could have samples to make my own.

    I have product samples, but it's hard to carry the shadowbox fence to the customers house.

    Like I said, I'm only an average sales person - I look for all the visual aids / help I can get (I believe a piture tells a thousand words). I have color charts for all the stains I present to the customer. Is anyone willing to share good quality photos of RS in action for my customer presentation? A couple in each color would make for a good start. I will promise not to claim it as Genesis work. (I'm trying to be creative so I had to ask.)

    I wish the manufacturers and these distributors would try to help make the contractor's life a bit easier. Where are the old days when they would literally trip over you to help? When I find a good service oriented distributor I try to reward them as they are few and far between (sorry to say that). This is a general statement and is not intended to reflect on any specific distributor.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Regards,

    Paul B. (Mean Papa - Blues Meister)

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Rick,

    So far, which result is closer match to that of whatever sales related color chart samples supplied by RS for that color?

    RS has not yet responded to my request for pricing or sales materials... Am sure if I search here hard enough I could find labeled examples of each color on finished wood but I really need some professional ones in hand. Will have to do some examples up myself on some old boards but a starting point or paper ones I can attach to my own would be nice to show how they might look on other wood types or surface preperations. ... I wonder how long is their turn around on orders if they can't get back to me on the pricing or resource materials?

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Maybe check out them silicate impregnating products or better yet do some heavy research on long and short oils and how they relate to the boating industry. Although I don't know how long they last, I'de about bet that the old time methods of gloss on stain surely hasn't been beat yet. There is a very good website on wood oil definitions and uses but I've lost it recently..sorry.

    Here is my further opinions:

    Most exterior wood care rely on stain pigments (from the ground) to do the protecting of the wood from the UV which you already have under control with a stain. Now you need a flexible oil (as I elude to above) that is compatable with it. If you try and go modern hard coat with UV protections (some catalyzed urathanes or epoxies are) built in you will still likely experience too early a coating failure due to moisture escape issues within the wood in an exterior situation. Such coatings are meant for hard surfaces like cars and concrete. So shy away..

    What ever you do you need to be aware that when it fails and starts chipping off it will likely need to be stripped in total as the underlying wood will have shown some level of unsightly grey wood or even white areas from trapped moisture. This effect has been seen by most folks that bought cheap outdoor furniture done in lacquer or conversion varnish meant for interior wood. First it starts off as small grey spots where the finish chips and then it starts splintering off. After awhile you just end up with dead dry ugly wood again if the coating was thin. If the coating is heavy it will be a nightmare to look at for years and years until redone. You won't be able to just recoat it with clear again. Solid primer and paint would then be only option if you were to not strip.

    I say don't even think further on trying to speculate on anything bonding properly with the wood tux. Too dangerous of a game..

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Most everything in online forums are viewable to public via actual membership or as a guest user. Exception would be pm system and subforums passworded due to things like rated content, forum management use, sponsor use, good ol'e boy clubs, etc...Why worry about it though. If we live online as we do in real life with integrity and character then it doesn't matter if people lurk and learn if they so desire. My personal opinion is I would never promote the idea of suppresion of knowledge as I feel it would eat my soul and affect my ability to gain or keep respect.

    What this lady doesn't get is that such info to do things herself has always been available through some means or another. Trade magazines, trade schools, engineering/chemistry/mechanics classes are available. If she a DIYer then more power to her. If she wants to blow 3 times what the job would cost for ALL the equipment in order to do it right as well as throw away a weekend or more of her time in purchasing and researching things then good for her. She must have lots of time on her hand. But I would ask what kind of laziness has kept her on her butt til now or what kind of brain disfunction has infected her with the idea that people can't clean things on their own if they have skills and required equipment. Above all I would ask her where she gets off wasting your time if she wanted to do it herself in first place. Time is money....You were there to serve her as we are in a service business. If she is so nieve to think that the main purpose of business is something other then making money and showing growth oriented profit then she obviously should take some classes related to business first before attending the acredited school of penny pinching....

    Can't blaim a person for interviewing you on what you bring to the table far as quality but putting you on the spot with this forum info and rates and then trying to shame you into sacrificing your well thought out convictions of pricing your company to suit your perticular market is simply low down. That's not to say it is low down for her trying to save money or by her comparing you to other businesses you might be in competition with in your area but it is low down to relate her worth to your worth as a bargaining chip while in the process of hiring a service. She should do that before hand before wasting hard working peoples time.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    hire a landscaper. I don't even own a lawnmower. Not worth my time

    she doin the back yard and watchin the kids now.oh and her name is 'hey hun'.. as in "hey hun, can ya get me a drink?", or "hey hun can ya mow the back lawn?" .... earlier on her way home from work it was "hey hun, can ya pick me up some sardines for fishing?"

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