MMI Enterprises
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Posts posted by MMI Enterprises
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Had a similar problem myself.... I lost 1300 PSI.Read this:
yea, but I failed to see what problem was and how ya fixed it..
Sarowe,
Did this problem start all of a sudden?
When I had similar problems all of a sudden it was not unloader or nozzle clogging or sizing or the like at all...
One time I sucked in some saran wrap in my float tank. The sound pitch of the whole engine setup sorta changed due to starvation and there was hose chatter.. (don't ask..lol).
The other time was very similar to that time in symptom but I lost more pressure (about 1/3 of system pressure) and there was no hose chatter. There was a change in sound pitch almost same akin to starvation and I had full pressure when not pulling trigger. Everything seemed smooth and fine but no pressure over 2200 pressure when pulling trigger... same as yer description--
I show 4000 psi without flowing water but only 1800 when flowing. Does this sound like its not loading up when under a load? Any ideals?Turned out thissecond time I was running on one engine cylinder with a broken connecting rod cap bolts. Engine sounded fine at idle or full rev but when I put it under load there was just no horsepower. It was like yes pump could build pressure on static situation to my 3k psi but trying to actually move water was another story.... You can check such by unplugging a spark plug to see if there is a change..(there should be a change even if ever so slight)...just a thought anyways if ya got a twin engine..
You should do what Alan said in that Grizzley thread about testing head pressure without hinderances like unloader, coil , or injectors right off the pump outlet if the above doesn't apply. You have to wire your gun trigger on at all times while engine is running to prevent things from blowing up though as that is what the unloader is for!...I wire the whole wand to side of trailer while doing this so I can concentrate on adjusting things.
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Choosing the gpm of a unit has got to be akin to choosing engine size of a vehicle. Difference being that a 5 gpm machine would be min. for any decent size flat work so it be like yer min. 4 banger car engine. When a 4 banger is running good it goes up hills fine and can pass people but throw in the slightest wear, bad tuning, or more weight and ya will be struggling with it going slow and wanting more power. The 5gpm washer can do just about everything but does it slower especially when you put on more weight and have some wear..lol.....Go with a 6 or an 8 banger :) -Get at least a 6 gpm @3500 to not feel like me...When using a wand I constantly wonder how the heck these other guys can do a whole strip mall in the time it takes me to do one store front. I can actually see them getting good results with wider spray pattern farther away from surface. It's like they are just walking and flushing and I am standing and slowly brushing every sq. inch...
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Took a couple hours of fabrication but I patched two spots and a few other things that were needing attention..
Still interested if people are wrapping this outer part with regular fiberglass or do we have to use special stuff same as the inside stuff?
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Well upon closer inspection after peeling away some of that corroded metal it appears that the inner cone that directs the flame straight up is fine and would block a direct hit via blow torching to that hole. Deisel must have been squirting over rather than spraying and had fire off and on for longer time than I thought.. The coil itself is the type that is only in upper section and it turns out there is some insulation around it and some of the bottom too...
Think I'll clean or change the fuel nozzle as well.
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thanx Alan... seen it today at a shop.. Shop guy didnot know where to get the brush material but I will check with Fullerbrush like ya mentioned. Not sure how I will dual shell mine though ;(
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Well the off loading the solution is covered but for future moving of heavy items:
You mentioned you have a trailer?...
If it is low enough with drop axle and you got a ramp you might want to invest in a pallet jack like you would see in a warehouse from maybe Harbor Freight or the like..
I use mine to move anything and everything I can't with a standard hand dolly including my 800 lb machine. All you do is lay some 4x4 under the object and let jack down and wheel it on out..
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First the ceramic heat insulation (?) was removed long time ago.
Secondly a burner bolt came loose for a short time making blower fire off to to the side a tad making the small crack.
Thirdly a burner bolt broke resulting in blow torching the boiler front.
Some questions:
The white deposits are likely fuel deposits right?
Would you just weld on a patch sheet of metal since this part is regular steel?
Coil is stainless though isn't it? (shop guy that has never seen it tells me "no way it would be too expensive")
Where do I get and how much should the insulation run? (shop guy said $6 a sq ft. x about 11 ft.) I assume it is special fireproof insulation rather than fiberglass..
But is anyone wrapping between main boiler and the outer skin cover for more protection to equipment or keep more heat in?
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My recovery surface cleaners have a very stiff bristle brush custom made by Fuller brush Company. They keep the water in and allow air to enter for the vacuum. If you had rubber, it would suck to the floor and not move very easy, if at all. If I crank the vacuum to high, it will suck mine to the floor and they will not move.ahh.....Have a pic or a link by chance?.. Is it around edge only sorta like a bonnet pad driver for a carpet cleaning?...Regular scrub machine pad drivers or the nylogrit type scrub brushes cover the whole bottom of a traditional swing floor machine and but have open areas for water to get through during scrubbing so I assume that is not what yer refering to..
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..in this case surely "walking" = "repeling".. :)
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yea, I don't get it...Being this is an asphalt roof you don't want pressure anyways.. is that correct?..just strong chlorine and a tad soap right? Seems to me (roof novice) the need to get up there via walking or a lift is just for the show to make it look like ya earned yer fee.... good deal ...
By the way, do any of you have a hard time walking away from doing the gutters or whole house out of pride?...By looking at that close up pic I'd find myself real itchy to just hit the whole thing..
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A few things...
Ron, Realize some these prejects on here are not always done with pressurewash equipment so pricing varies for that reason as well as for reasons of locale and competition level. I use autoscrubbers which have a lower overhead to run and more people offering such services. But hey..trust me I love to get $80-$100 per hr for scrubbing floors but it don't always at all work out that way. On inside work I usually have to be providing actual finish removal services to get to the .20-.30 per sqft. range. (translates into just about same $ an hour figures above for me).
This mornings 4 hour job translated into $60 an hour my share but that was a special deal for my brothers janitorial company in order for him to score daily office cleaning contract. We did 20k sqft of 30k nasty warehouse space in 4 hours..
The thing about these kitchen areas for me is that I don't like the soak and wait time involved of flooding the floor either (is just about required with any method other than hot pressure) so am interested in hooking up a recovery vacuum to my sureface cleaner such as Alan runs...
....Alan, How often does the rubber have to be replaced on the surface cleaners edge. Getting such going on the homemade jobber I run may be too much a pain as you mention butit may be worth a shot..
Far as sanded grout versus urethane...contractors I see use Admix (probably urethane based) in there mortar/sanded grout mix these days so perhaps worrying about such is moot point now...least where I am at anyways. From where I stand with 20 years doing inside cleaning work of all types I got to call it shoddy workmanship from the get go that a place would have to regrout. If a regrouting is to take place the surface sure had better be degreased first and then acid etched or it will just fall out again.
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Dave,
You got any pics of such setups on the inside and outside as it would be setup?...Not exactly getting the leaf bag thing or how to apply this method with my sump..
?
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I have a little giant sump with a float.. anyone ever stick one into the bottom of a small drum and drill a few dozen holes around the bottom rim and bottom?. Seems to me the holes would act like debri filters. Place it in the v of a simple dam with a hand dolly after capping the drain and run the outline to either the sewer or onto land? Maybe sticking a tiny enclosed wetvac with wand into the top section with a manual drain **** going to sump inlet would work good for final clean up? Just thinking how to get every last drop when there hardly is any drops even.
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Only commercial here. I use autoscrubbers and swing machine with nylo grit brush. Chemical choice can vary depending on situation... Purple Power or Sodium Hydroxide for grease situations... and CLR for when the grout is filled with hard as nails deposits and black gunk.....then hydrochloric when it is really bad like new construction. Mortar is a pain and that is the only solution.....worth upwards of $3 sq./ft. easily for such a job. The regular maintenance scrubs on biweekly schedule run about $40-$60 an hour.
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What ended up being used here? Hope if it was permanent type epoxy or laquer that it was prepped with hydrochloric first then put in check with citric :)
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Been doing vinyl,ceramic, brick, saltina, etc. for many years and what I find works for home situations where you have unstained/unsealed type grout that is not filled with grime just use citric acid in a spray bottle mixed as strong as the water will take.(somewheres aroud 1/3 powder to water). Spray it on and soak for minutes to hours and then do a quik scrub. Usually be like brand new. Will get brighter over a few days as well. Nothing safer than citric acid.
On food establishments where the grime gets thick black and hard as a rock use CLR first mixed real strong and soak for 15 to 30 minutes than autoscrub it up. You can boost it with Oxalic or Citric.(that's what it has in it). The key is that ya need the all important surfactants in such situation to break through the oils and dirt which act just like a seal. The citric will just sit on it otherwise and do almost nothing. Have to be real careful if grout is stained. In fact make a disclosure that some of the stain may bleed out during the process. I have never seen a situation where it keeps bleeding during regular care though and it always looks even after I'm done.
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Russ,
In the Intake picture above, the red hose on right comes down across front of motor from an elevated float tank. It then goes into a 4way pipe fitting (inlet,bypass,out to pump, and a factory installed upstreamer). The black hose is the bypass off unloader, The red hose on left comes out of 4way up and over into pump..
A shop once told me that I need to have a restrictor inside the intake hose so the vac/flow switch would work. I understand what your saying about if there is bypass while spraying that there then would be less vacuum to work the switch. I dislike the whole idea. It is finicky and isn't conducive to parts replacement in a bind. I had replaced inlet hose and had figured I better feed that pump as much as it wanted. So how much bypass should I be seeing while spraying? I heard that a little is a good idea so that the unloader is always ready to respond at moments notice and so there is not a huge influx of pressure happening in the lines once trigger is released..
ANy truth in any of that. think I read such on the pumps 101 sections of either Delco or Hotwater Wizzard site.
So I did a real bad dock job with unit last evening and I got all my pressure and a some larger percentage of my gpm back more so than machine has ever done for me before. But I am sure it is bypassing at least a half gal if not 3/4 gpm. While not spraying it kept popping in and out of bypass every 5 seconds or so. Am I gonna crank down the unloader or let up some to cure that? (can't think straight).
I got my heat by slightly closing the ball valve I mentioned for the silly restriction. It is just out of sight in that picture top right. If I close down too much I can feel the differance and pump becomes starved..
Anybody else with some good info please jump in too..
Thanx,
~Kevin
What options do I have for a new switch and what are the pros and cons in the different types?
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Alan, I sliced just the tip of the little nipple in the guage with a razor to get to the little pin hole meant for breathing. Wonder how import that is in some situations...
Russ,
I must have spiked that guage messin with unloaders cause we haven't had any freeze since I stuck it on. I suppose I should not rely on it really at all now.
Went out last evening and pinched the bypass hose and got no changes so I popped off the hose at the bypass barb and plugged the hose with a socket wrench extention and clamp. When I fired up unit with trigger on there was about 3/4 to 1 gpm. bypassing so I cranked down the unloader a bit. A few times of hooking hose back up and testing the bypass while releasing trigger and I seem to sometimes get pressure at 3000 and other times at around 2700. Either the gauge is not reading correct sometimes or the unloader is fickle in that when returning it to same position it does not work same. Disregarding the gauge, and concentrating on the unloader instead, don't I want to acheive the 3k pressure but without a harsh popping down of the unloader piston or violence in my hose and reel? Is it correct that some unloaders keep pressure in line and some don't?. When I adjust this st280 to get my full pressure it still bypasses 3/4 gpm. There seems to be a point in tightening it down that I get the violoence in both the hose and unloader and then if I go farther I just get the unloader slapping down violently or healthely depending on how ya look at it I guess.
As I remember my cat unloader with this gauge when it was good it would spike up maybe 200 psi then fall down slow to 0 psi with no pressure in hose on release of trigger.
Will try to get some more pics up of the dumb plumb.. Thanx for the help guys..
~Kevin
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Great stuff indeed, but I am lost in the math a bit. Can someone explain what the 144 in the cell E30 stands for under the spindel section? I am stuck on why not dividing by 12 to get feet out of inches on some of these cell formulations.. I must be missing something important in the math formula or what the spreadsheet program is capable of... As example on the 4x4 post cell D25 why is the formula =B25*(C25*0.33*3.6) instead of =B25*C25*(3.6*4)/12 ?
I mean the .33 stands for the 4 sides but yet it doesn't, does it? :) Does the cell formulation not allow what I just formulated to allow for the infinate number a bit better ?
I don't see rounding up making up for the larger quantities of items..Seems there is room for either more understanding on my part or accuracy for everyone... someone please help me out here if ya can..
Also, just like Tropical Wave, I am not sure what the market will Behr in my area (Sacramento, Ca) for deck work. Anyone got first hand knowledge for here? One large commercial real estate client calling me totally balked at my idea of working $80 per hour on what I described as a 4 hour job plus chemicals. And then when I offered to measure it out at .20 sq.ft. they still acted like I was off my rocker. It was rediculous and would have to wonder if it was a legit call even if it weren't for knowing exactly where the location was and who they were. I most likely would have been doing 1k sq/ft plus some linear on the rails and they seemed to want a $100 bid. Is that just the way it goes sometimes? I would think so. In inside work on vinyl floor stripping I see customers both expecting and paying rates from .09 to .30...
I tend to go middle of road at .20 for such work. But where am I to start on the wood?
~Kevin
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Thanx Alan!.:lgangel: Life must really be like a box of chocholates. Didn't expect that when I put up that picture..Will yank that thing right of in quik order then :)
Any additional ideas or comments on this thing?
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Ok, so your refering to the unloader part pictured as being a piston then..
I don't know the history of this machine and can't really say how long it was in there nor can I really picture a low side or high side it coming from. I cracked the head of my pump off just to see what goes on in there a bit and there it was on the bottom. I've had the unit for a tad over a year and finally blew a cylinder in the opposed Briggs. That says it all on how old it is..My neighbor, who has plumbing experience, called this thing a ball check valve. Beats me where it came from though and why it has a bored out hole into it.. Would kinda defeat such a purpose in a free float situation. That is why I was asking if it goes inside the unloader. It seems to fit right on the end of that piston stem pictured except that it is tapered. Its like what else in one of these systems has a protruding tip for it to go on? I have always ran it with a hose strainer before float tank and but I have no strainer on the float tank outlet into machine. Maybe it comes from part of the float mechanism but it seems to be working fine in blocking the incoming water. Sure is puzzling me a bit so I am about to chalk it up to historical unknowns..
The machine is working sorta decent after putting on a new engine and am just tinkering with the unloader and throttle settings for pressure and generator now..
So onto next set of questions:
The machine is a 3000@5gpm. Is a old verticle burner Mi-T-M 5005 skid with a general pump labeled as theirs (model 3000)which makes it really a 4.8 or 4.9 right?
I installed one of their pressure guages and I know darn well that it had read 3000 psi working pressure while in use most of the time. Now the needle seems to be starting off wrong direction and gets me only at 2500 to 2700 depending on throttle on the new 18 hp Honda. When I release trigger the st280 unloader goes in bypass and takes the needle on up to 3000 or over depending how much I tighten it down. Why is it starting backwards and why does it not go down to zero on trigger release and why no 3000 psi working pressure? I currently am bypassing coil and no downstream injector is installed while tuning to prevent complications. The only other thing I have done to system prior to engine swap was to install a fatter 3/4" low side hose and ball valve between float tank and what I thought was a vacuum valve. This old time valve that I thought was a vacuum switch for the heater was described by a shop when they seen it as something different like a flow valve. The thing has a contact switch with spring and has given me nothing but trouble. I actually installed the ball valve so as to adjust the flow (or vac) on it so it turns burner on. Sometimes the burner doesn't come on right away due to no diesal inline (understandably) but then when this silly thing decides to not work proper then I am out of heat for the long haul of a job unless I took apart. I should be able to run any size intake hose or volume that the pump wants without a valve restriction right? Should I switch it out to another modern type to acheive this?
So in summary: Is my pressure guage broke(also sits at 500 when off-see pic) or has shop set me up with wrong nozzle size of 5.5 causing the lower pressure, and do I have to go back to a smaller intake hose unless I change type of heater valve?
Or does all three issues apply?,lol
The following three pics show the guage while machine is off, then the flow or vac switch, and then the intake hose to it. Is there something inherently wrong here with plumbing ? :lgsick: maybe I need a new machine:lgsad:
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For what its worth... I harvested a sureflow out of a carpet cleaning machine and mounted it directly on top of a 5 gal. bucket and only use about 20' of the clear hose hooked to a quik connect so I can use my main wand which has a dual tip on end of a single lance. I then use whatever length extension cord runnin off my generator or customers wall outlet.The dual tip on my single lance lets me pick how much chemical will go down. The high pressure tip helps put down less for carpet cleaning via the chemdry bonnet method inside a building but a big soap nozzle will soak concrete fast for pressure washing.
I do not want a ton of chemical in the hose before I spray it. Just doesn't work for me with some chemicals and leads to waste. A bucket or two per storefront or section to be cleaned if I am doing bleach, degreaser, or acid. If I am doing something bigger and it needs more dilution I just downstream it.
~Kevin
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Those rubber ones are almost a standard item on verticle engines as found in floor burnishers and I have used them plenty. I dislike them for such application as they are usually mounted with an elbow straight up and then ya got to bend and prop something to hold them down to drain. They drain slow and are not fun. They would work better in the horizontal engine application if laid straight down though. The ones on some onan engines I've used are better as they are fatter hose and you can just turn this little cylidrical drain valve thingy built into the end.
My Briggs twin that I just yanked off has my favorite heavy duty type. It used pipe and tapered npt elbow which now does not fit my new Honda..darn it..
If I make another it will be with brass fittings so as not to possibly induce casting sand into engine. Not sure if that can happen but why risk it?
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Russ,
Right..it does not come off piston and I don't see it coming anywhere else inside pump area.Pump is workin fine.
I believe the bypass outlet of this st280 is too small for it to go through and back around into system prior to vacuum switch and on through. Not even sure if inlet side of unloader is big enough for that. Maybe it came off my cat unloader that I changed out or maybe off the vac switch?
Anyone know what this thing is and whther such a thing is meant on the tip of my unloader?
A closer pic is attached..
Commercial Tile Cleaning
in Floor & Carpet Care
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They also have a few brands of seal made to prevent stickage that ya can spray on or mop down over at the local HD... Cheapo Behr is one they got for such construction protection. After grouting such stuff can be stripped off or left for a fair to good seal for the business opening..