4running

Is is the Poly tank 15 or the Steel tank 15 gallon?

Well, I stepped up to the plate and bought a Clarke CTV 15 Gallon Wet/Dry vac. Its looking like I might have bought two. I'll try to post a picture. This Clarke seems like a nice unit. I was real impressed by some of the vacs in their Summit line. And as far as I know Clarke makes good equipment. This is a used vac, so I also need to buy filters, and maybe some attachments. Any Ideas? Lowes didnt have filters for this Clarke vac, I think because they are washable. If I do get the second one I'd be willing to pass the savings along to someone here on the board. I would rather they come pick it up, but would be willing to ship. I'll you guys posted. Kyle

I also dont know wether to go stainless tank or poly. seems like most stainless tanks have a tip and pour feature. as where the poly tanks do not. Any one have any input?

55 Gallons! thats a little too much vac for me. This will be for vacuuming my car/ fireplace/drywall dust, and the occasional flooded basement. Even their 15 gallon unit is $700! $3-400 is my max to spend.

Yeah, thats too pretty to not be in an enclosed trailer. ;)

Hello- Now that I have used my newly rebuilt 110v Hotsy machine , I have noticed that the burner, burns very well, no black smoke, no white smoke just clear exhaust and it lights everytime. But........... I wish the water was hotter. For example when I power wash the wand is too hot to hold, I have to use the handle on the wand if the burner has been going for more that a minute or so, and the hose gets hot as well. But the water the comes out when it splashes and hits my feet feels just warm, and surface that I am cleaning never gets actaully hot. Can I adjust the bands to get more heat? Like wood burning stove just cut some air flow? do I need a larger volume kerosene nozzle? Does diesel burn hotter that Kerosene? The thermostat on the machine is cranked all the way up, so the burner heats anytime the trigger is pulled until you release it. Am I being silly? or can I make this thing really get hot? Thanks again for the advice! Kyle

Yeah, I'll get an infared thermometer and take the temp of coil at the discharge side. The person who stated that if the hose is hot, and the wand is too hot to hold, that its gets hot enough for this type of unit is also prolly right. I think I'll take the temp at the output side of the coil, and if it gets 200 degrees Ill just leave it or if its a little cool, I'll turn up the fuel pressure and play with that for awhile. I have more damn fun with this thing! :)

My Hotsy has a knob on the front that says "SOAP", This is basicly a regulator for water that appears to be blead off of the pump. If I open the valve and turn the knob to "SOAP" water comes from the pump and out of a small rubber hose. Why does this valve not "suck" detergent from a container and add it to the pressurized water? Instead it pushes water from the pump out the hose. Am I missing a piece or part to this "SOAP" feature? why does water coem out the "SOAP" hose, and not soap? can someone point me in the right direction? If I could degrease an engine with a degreaser added to the water, that would be AWESOME! Kyle

I think I may add a down stream injector system to my pressure washer. Russ- I actually took apart y trigger tonight and it has a cone shaped valve that fits into a seat that is supposed to seal and close the trigger. Of course it was rusty and full of debris. I cleaned it all out and now it just BARELY drips out the end of the wand when the trigger is closed. And guess what? the machine stopped "cycling" like I had complained about (just like you said!) I cant get it to seal 100% because of the wear that is on the cone shaped piece. The little cone would have to be replaced in order to seal because of a wear ring that has formed due to use and age on the sealing surface. But........ I did fint this on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=002&item=120036763416&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1 This would fit my machine PERFECT! and would make my soap feature work I assume. but I would rather have a down stream setup. Im gonna have to weigh it out and see what I want. If the downstream setup is too much $$ I may try to go this route. I wont pay that much for it though, maybe it will be relisted for a lower price.

Hello Everyone! My name is Kyle and I just got an older Hotsy machine. This is an old 880 it is 110v and makes about 1200 PSI. I am having some trouble with the way the burner is running. It smokes an aweful lot like white smoke, only it doesnt come from the top of the coil it comes throught the seams in the sheetmetal at the base and at the top of the coil. How do I adjust airbands, and what are they? I took the burner apart and spprayed out the nozzle with carb cleaner and pushed the igniters slightly closer together but to no avail. it almost seems as if I need to add more air, like is burning to rich. I am burning bulk Kersone Can someone please help me? Kyle Harris WO1 US Army

Alright! I couldn't resist! I had to get it going this evening. It seems to burn just fine the way I have it setup. No smoke, no soot, no issues. I may close it off a little more and see how it does. I owe all of you guys who helped out. Thanks so much. Dont worry, I'm not going anywhere! This was such a fun project I'm gonna stick around and continue to fix this thing up. This forum is an awesome resource! Russ- I am gonna give you a call tomorrow to price out a down stream injection setup, that I can move to a new machine if I get one. I also need to buy a few different tips, I don't think this tip is any good at all. Airbands! wait till I get my hands on the turkey who took em' off! What was he thinking? Funny, he said the burner worked when I bought it, that was a lie.

Well............... you guys are gonna kill me.............remember my first question about air bands?................well as it turns out this machine doesnt have any! they have been removed, thats why this darn things runs so lean! the burner is running WIDE OPEN........that is too much air! I have an old burner with air bands on it that will fit (they are both Wayne Burners) and ill see if I can get it to burn this weekend. Thanks to Mr. Tripp for pointing that out to me....and to think an hour ago I didnt even know what an airband was! I'll keep you all posted! Kyle

this darn thing STILL wont burn! I thought I had it! I was wrong! Now this silly thing doesnt light at all! I have 105PSI out of the pump, I have a spark yet it doesn't want to burn. New sprayer New Fuel filter Different Coil I double checked, it sprays with just the gun hooked up, it sparks when the burner is out. I can hear the transformer buzzing when the burner is all hooked up. I have moved the igniters around to several locations. What gives? I may try to use this other burner and hook it up this weekend and see if I can get it to light. any fresh ideas? I am very frustrated here.

Ok- I bought a new kerosene sprayer nozzle, a new kerosene filter,ceramic fiber insulation,and a new hose for my Hotsy machine from Southside Equipment in Louisville,KY. I just got through re-insulating the coil, barrel, and collector of the burner. I'd post pics but am not sure how. I may install the stuff for the burner and see if I can get this machine running this afternoon. But for now I have to hit the books first! Kyle

On my Hotsy, I removed the Plumbing, the top, and the burner. It just pulled right out after that! Is this a Vertical burner?

If the coolant hasn't been there long, honing won't be necessary. Glycol Based coolant (or any antifreeze for that matter) actually possesses anti corrosive properties due to additives. Also keep in mind that it takes an awful big leak into a combustion chamber for coolant not to leave out the exhaust valve as steam. I would not rush into a head gasket on a GM 4.3 or 2.8. Many of them, if they are seeping coolant into the combustion chamber, have a leak at the intake manifold gasket., which will give similar symptoms for a head gasket. This is a job that is not as complex as it seems, maybe you could dig in yourself with a couple of us from the board, if you live local.

I would use a diameter that is more appropriate, and a muffler with a smaller chamber or a muffler with more packing versus just baffles. Kyle

I used to do exhaust on vehicles, I would try to use nothing larger than a 1-7/8 " pipe, and if you have too, use a resonator or "Pre" muffler before the muffler, this will even out the "pulses" from the exhaust making it seem quieter as well. Also, the lower to the ground you put the outlet (Best to cut it to face toward the ground) the quieter it will seem. Another tip is that the shorter the exhaust system in length the louder it will be. Beware of a muffler with too large of a chamber for the flow of these small engines as a chamber that is too large makes the exhaust sound hollow and tinny and makes it seems louder as well. I bet you could make one of these REAL quiet if done properly.

Mine does the same thing! check this thread for info it may help : http://forums.thegrimescene.com/showthread.php?t=7995

If it will this wold be a great deal for someone who needs a new flow switch, there are several available: http://cgi.ebay.com/1-New-McDonnell-FS1-Flow-Switch-1-2-NPT-100-PSI_W0QQitemZ320004463149QQihZ011QQcategoryZ58169QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem 100 PSI max is ok because it is before the pump. Kyle

I have a Hotsy Pump on my Hotsy machine, but because of its age no seals, or anything for that matter are available for it. I wonder if this is standard for manufacturers to do at a certain point or if its just Hotsy, but no matter how good the pump is if you cant service it, its days are limited. Something to consider when buying!

That switch from a pressure washer place is about $200, thats why I figured I'd post it. For $25 its a bargain. This is the same switch thats on my machine. And my machine is old as the hills! Kyle

Russ- Good eye, it is VERY rotten at the bottom. I'll seek a solution to that this week. I also viewed your previous thread on alignment of the electrodes, I used those specs to align mine. do I need to sharpen those electrodes to a point like in the picture? Kyle

Im gonna call on Monday and get a new kerosene sprayer nozzle and some insulation for the coil, as well as a new element for the kerosene filter. I pulled the coil out, and it was nasty on the bottom of the barrel, lots of rust and rotten metal. I am gonna go ahead and vacuum all this out before I place the coil and the new insulation in the barrel. I hope that this new sprayer will take care of my problem. I worry about replacing this injector because I did finally figure out how to hook it up outside the burner unit and watched it spray, and it looked ok, but for the little bit of money that it costs, I'll replace it for good measure. I have done so much work to this machine that once it is finally working I think I'll pleased with the results. Once the sprayer nozzle and the insulation arrives, I'll get them installed and let everyone know how it burns. Kyle

Guys- Man, I stil can't get this thing to fire correctly or consistently. I removed the pipe after the kerosene filter, and ran it. The Kerosene come out real nice, I also took an air hose and sprayed though the tubing from the injector to the keresene line, no blockage. I was unable to figure out a way to spray the injector outside of the heater housing, so instead I took it all apart. I removed the screen,Removed the jet and the pin wheel thing, cleaned all of of it out (it was already very clean), reassembled it, and now it still doesn't burn right and it still flames out! I wonder if just for good measure I could try a new sprayer? How should the igniters be position wise in relationship to the sprayer? Should I revisit the air bands? BTW- I peaked up inside the coil, it is all clean and clear, the insulation that I could see had no signs of being soaked with fuel. Thanks for helping me through this! Kyle