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HI- I am troubleshooting a new machine I got today, its another 761ss.I now have 2. This machine will be a frame off restoration, as it has been totally basterdized by the former owner. Right now, out of the Subaru Robin 6hp engine there is 28V AC out of the engine into the voltage regulator, there is no voltage to the battery with the engine running. My other machine is about 14v to the battery with the engine running. I swapped the voltage regulator with the other machine, but there was no change. What should the output of the two yellow wires be out of the engine? The "isolation relay" should be opened and closed by the "rectifier" but if I have no voltage or the incorrect voltage out of the engine I am not getting anywhere. The other thing I dont understand is that if the engine puts out AC current shouldn't the battery charge off of the rectifier? I have never charged a DC battery with AC current! but the way it is wired, unless the regulator has a few diodes I dont see how this works. The schematic is the PDF down below: sc013ab26c.pdf

Yeah, I guess thats what I call it! ;) I think this poor guy was just in a little over his head and was REALLY trying hard to repair this machine. I should have taken some pictures of some of his hacked up handy work for entertainment.

Ok all is well, This thing wasn't making sense, because the previous owner had worked a little bit of " Hill Billy" wiring magic in an attempt to troubleshoot this machine. Thanks to all who read!

Alright- After some reading, I am revisiting this issue, the same issue I seemed to have with my last machine. This is a gas powered hot water machine, 2000 PSI at 2.5 GPM. I turn the water on at the spicket, walk over to the machine, and pull the recoil. The engine ALWAYS starts first pull and runs out great. The machine is at 2000 PSI according to my gauge. After about 20 seconds, I pull the trigger on the wand, and the engine dies. I restart the engine, and the engine dies after pulling the trigger again. After two to three more times, I restart it again and it seems to work ok, the pressure is at 2200 with the trigger gun closed and at 2000 with it open. (about 10% which the idea right?) Sometimes when the machine is running for the first time that day, the engine will bog down, with the trigger open and the pressure will go to almost ZERO. then slowly build back up, after 2-3 seconds. The machine will always work perfect after a few minutes of messing around. Sounds like I need an unloader right? Well, I am not so sure...... If the unloader holds the pressure with the trigger open at 2000 PSI, and unloads at 2200 PSI what could be wrong with it? After almost 3 years of having a pressure washer you would think I would understand these valves a little bit better. But I guess I don't.

Just to double check according to my reading of the nozzle chart, I should be using a size 3.5 nozzle. So if I want a 15 degree fan, I would use a 15035. Correct? Or should I be using a 4?

Hello all- my new 781SS is here, 6hp, 2000@2.5gpm. I had a small burner relight issue that seemed to be solved entirely by charging the battery. I want to understand a 12v burner a little bit better..... Does the igniter arc the ENTIRE time the burner is on? Or does it stop once it is lit? Can the engine recharge the battery on its own? Or must I plug the battery in every night after say, an hours use? Do all engines have an alternator to charge batteries built in? Is it run off of the magneto? I have seen some pressure washers with an automotive style alternator being belt driven. If only some engines have an alternator, if I want to change this engine out, how can I tell which replacement engines have an alternator? Thanks Guys! Kyle

Hey thanks for the info! Its nice to understand how this stuff actually works. So many people own equipment, and haven't the foggiest idea how it works. Kyle

Hi- Another Texan, well I think Childress Texas is north of Killeen. Otherwise I would offer a hand. Seems to me on an old Hotsy that I had, I had a Band adjustment as well as an igniter alignment issue. If you have an email I can send pics of what they should look like on a 120v burner, when aligned and cleaned.

I picked up this machine here locally, and got what I think is a pretty good deal on it. This is a gas powered Hotsy, the model is a 781ss it is 3.0 GPM at 2000 and uses a Hawk pump. The question I have, is that the fuel tank for the burner has a small crack on the top and it needs to be replaced. The tank is held in place with 2 strips of metal banding. I don't have any of the banding and dont know where to get it. Is there a way to remove the bands and re-use them? I also need to clean out the unloader, as I think it sometimes goes into bypass while I am using the machine. But this unloader is different from the style that I am used to. It is all brass and is built onto the pump. Is there anything special I need to do with it? Thanks for the help guys! Kyle

Russ- Hey man, the pictures are up above in that link for download. I was able to get the unloader apart and clean it just like you had taught me a few years back. When I first started looking at this Hotsy unloader it looked as if it was a single piece, and it also had no external spring, so that was a bit confusing to me. But I was able to get it apart, and pull out that small bullet and clean it. Now it works fine. The adjustment spring is actually inside, and is very small. Kyle

Heres the photos: MobileMe - iDisk Ill check into the epoxy for fuel tanks.

The Mi-T-M stuff has always seemed interesting to me.

Hi guys! Say, I have noticed that many low PSI (1200and below) electric machines from Mi-T-m and Landa have an option for a "steam combination valve". I installed a gate type valve on my 2700psi 3 gpm to get my self down to around 700PSI and I could raise the temperature to just below 200F which made a HUGE cleaning difference on some of my machinery (ATVs etc). I want to know if because I have a higher output machine as compared to some of these others that come with this valve from the factory am I putting to much pressure on my coil and pump by restricting it with a valve? in other words is taking 2700 PSI down to 700 hard on the machine, but taking 1000psi on a 110v machine down to 500 like on the Mi-T-M no big deal. I am using just a gate valve from Ace, and I blew the seal out of it, due to pressure. Does anyone know what these manufactures are using as a "steam combination valve"? This strikes me as a bit risky, so I want to continue with caution and some education.

Hey Russ from Southside Equipment- I just hung up with you. Can you hook me up with a valve like the GP above to add to my order? I might need some support, but is 888-243-6506 still good? I think I may need a hose with a compression fitting to make this work. Will Call on the 16th.

Hello all- I have a Landa Machine with a propane burner. I have noticed that when the burner is on, I get some flames peaking through the hole for the input line on the side of the coil. The flame come outside of the machine for a few seconds at a time. The small flame is about an inch or two long. I also notice that the coil skin is too hot to touch around that area, but the rest of the coil skin is cool. I had my coil skin replaced by a local professional do I need to take this back apart and re-do the insulation in the coil. or re align the burner? Kyle

Acegoat- your exactly right! Kyle

Hi guys! Ok back in town and ripped into my machine last night. It appears as if the burner uses NO insulation at all, only on the chimney and a small donut on the water input and output of the coil to seal against the coil skin. The lower one looks like to was not reinstalled by Hotsy, DOH! Can I insulate the whole burner? I will have to call Southside Equipment and order some insulation, and get a new coil skin. Russ seems to be the only guy thats gives me straight answers and good advice. I almost feel like anything this Hotsy place tells me I need to run it by Russ at Southside to be sure. BTW- Jerry, this is an electric machine, and to be honest is not much of a danger at this time.

OK guys- I have been through 3 hot water units in the last 3 years, all have needed some sort of work or improvement. Every time I get a new machine, it has been an upgrade, so its not as if ive been ruining the machines or wearing them out. I have had one Landa and two Hotsy's. I have never had an Mi-T-M, but I have a lead on one that needs some repair and I would like to make the repairs and present it to my step dad for Christmas. It is a gas powered machine. I have become intrigued by these machines as the burners are so compact that they are almost tiny, and they do not require a 12 volt source for the burners. And the burners burn down instead of up. They also just seem so much different than other machines. Are these machines as innovative as I think they are? Being built in Iowa I assume that parts are available and the quality is high. Or are they just kinda junky? Thanks for the opinions Kyle

I dont know what a FAIP pump is but the magneto and flywheel look like a briggs units. to me that is innovative, no one else is doing it...........

I would have to agree, but these Mi-T-M machines dont use standard parts like beckett burners etc. They do use the same AR or general pumps, but besides the engine everything else is proprietary. Kyle

Do you mean to say that every time you wanted the burner to burn you have to manually ignite it rather that the machine do it through a pressure switch? sounds like a pain

Hello all! I would like to convert my Landa 700 VHP Propane washer to 220V for more gallons per minute, now that I have some bigger jobs at my new house for it to do. The propane burner on this unit should make this easy, as I have no blower motor, However it does use some sort of solenoid, and the machine does have a pressure switch to turn on the burner. I already have a 5hp 220V 56 frame motor, and have done the math for the pulley size on my belt driven General Pump. What else do I need to contend with? Can I turn up the pressure on the Burner for more heat? Or do I need a new orifice? Has any one else done this? I think this may be kinda fun, but I want it to be a pro conversion, not something that looks slapped together. Any ideas?

You had also advised me to keep it below 200, so I will monitor the temp if I choose to turn it up in the future. Thanks Again Russ! I will most likely call tomorrow, as I need a few things! Kyle

Heres the pics download them for greater detail! iDisk Public Folder (Graphite) If anyone has any questions about a voltage conversion project and its feasibility or approx. cost, please drop me a line and I can let you know what this project cost me and how long it took.

We did talk about adding more heat, and although this machine still gets MORE than hot enough, for future reference I assume that the center black plastic nut on the regulator gets turned in order to increase propane pressure. Can this be done with out "sooting" up the burner? And if so which direction do I turn the large nut? CW or CCW when looking at it? I know propane is threaded in reverse but does this apply to the regulator? Kyle