NewYorkBoraPL

I'm going to hope for the best, it feels like a chalky substance. My main concern was that the ingredients in the raid permanently damaged the siding. Ill take an after photo if it comes off.

What I buy is actually 15% SH and it comes out to 3.09 per gallon with taxes and delivery fee. Wish I could find something cheaper but I just don't think its possible on LI.

The best price I found in Long Island is 2.75 per gallon. Next best thing is 3.50 per gallon. I am still on my journey of finding a cheaper supplier......

What do you guys think about this as a back up unit. pressure washer I know briggs is a good engine but am not familiar with annovi reverbi pumps. Anyone have any insight on these?

I bought a used MITM 3005 SUPRA HOT unit last November and the pump does need a rebuild. The unfortunate part is that there is no ID number or brand name on the pump. I am sending these photos over to MITM tech support so they can distinguish if it is in fact there original pump. They use General and Cat I beleive. Well anyone want to take a guess at what it is?

After cleaning a clients concrete she decided she would like me to seal it as well. She had huge rust stains on here concrete from a power line above her property which had a rusty metal covering. I used oxalic to rid of the rust spots and of course there is a color variation in the concrete. My questing is, can the concrete be sealed with this color variation? Should I try to even out the color with say a base before I apply clear seal? Thanks

Well I explained the options to the HO and she decided just to even out just that one section. I prepped it with oxalic to even it out and sealed it lear with a H&C clear seal. I was expecting the seal to leave a more "wet" finish look. It is in deed a good water proofer but it did not change the appearance of the flat work.

Or I could wash all the concrete with oxalic and tell my client that I will have to (A) raise her price and delay the finishing date of the project or (B) not raise her price by taking a hit but still delaying the project. I think my best bet would be to get some H&C natural concrete colored stain from SW and call it a day.

I agree...it looks horrible. Maybe I should go with a sealant that has a natural color of concrete.

I considered that, but her back yard concrete exceed 2600 ft2. There must be something else I can do.

Does anyone have a good way of removing pine sap from white concrete? Any help asap would be appreciated! Thanks!

I went to go use my machine today and when I squeezed the trigger absolutely no water came out. It’s a used mitm machine with around 1000 hours on it. When I used it last week it was fine. So I thought there was air in the system or a clog in the system. What a pain in the rear to look through all the hoses. Well I cam to a conclusion that the line going from the water reservoir to the pump was empty. I can not figure out why the pump is not sucking up the water from the water inlet reservoir. I thought the pump was broken but when I hooked up the water supply straight to the pump it was working. Does anyone have any idea what my problem could be. I am farley new to industrial sized machines. I have a 3000 psi 4.7 gmp hot water pressure washer from mitm with a 16 hp vanguard engine. Any ideas would be great.

Thanks for the check valve idea; I am definitely going to check that out. I realized thatthe water line from the pump to the float tank does not hold water in it and allows the water to back flow into the float tank. This could theoretically solve my problem. Is this line I speak of supposed to hold water in it to prime the pump or should the pump be able to draw straight from the float tank without a problem?

Thanks for all the information, I finally got around to tinkering around with the pump and it was In fact vapor locked. I am not too familiar with these types of machines (skids), but I assume the basic premise is the same as those which directly connect the H2o supply to the pump rather then a float tank. Now that the machine is actually functioning; there are a few glitches in the system. For starters the pressure does not build up until ~ 5 seconds after squeezing the trigger, then it sputters and hold pressure for a few minutes until it looses pressure. Can this be a clog in the system, air in the system, pump seals or any other components? The unloader looks a lot newer then the rest of the machine. I still have some fiddling around to do and any suggestions would be fantastic.

I need some help on how to remove black rubber markings from lawn mower handles and lawn mower wheels on a white plastic pvc fence. Here are some pics for clarification. Thanks Rafal Siemion Precise Pressure Cleaning

The rig I am looking to purchase has sparks coming out of the burner exhaust on start up, they stop after about 30 seconds and the owner says it never caused him any problems. What could be the reason for these sparks and would it be an expensive fix?

I have been researching and reading so much information on cleaning stucco that I am overwhelmed. I am between purchasing Powerhouse @ sunbrite and adding in some Sodium Hypochlorite or making a home made solution. I have read some guys are using Sodium Metasilicate, TSP, and Sodium Hypochlorite. I have looked into the chemistry store and they do not sell Sodium Hypochlorite. Is Sodium Percarbonate a good substitute for Sodium Hypochlorite? This is going to be my first Stucco cleaning and I want to get the job done right. The stucco has not been cleaned in seven years and has it’s fair share of algae, mildew, and black gutter stains. I did not see any rust, but it is possible. I would just use some oxalic acid. Someone tell me if I am on the right track to make my own solution. This is painted stucco, will these chemical fade the paint of worse destroy it? The house is also partially brick, will these solutions be feasible with brick?

First of all thank you for all the guidance that was received for deriving a stucco solution. All went well on Sunday and the solution did as it was supposed to. All the green was removed along with dirt but there were some stubborn parts where the dirt was removed and the coloring of the paint was noticeably darker. The stucco was painted white and the most bottom part of the house was covered in pure dirt in one location, this is where it was noticeably darker. The home owners were thrilled with the job although I feel I could have done better, maybe my expectations were to high. I couldn’t have done it without the SH although I X Jetted it from 5% in the mixture I could have just used a household bleach and saved the extra cash on buying the 12.5% pool shock. No vegetation has died as of yet and I assume it’s safe to say that at this point and time it will not die. BTW, the butyl degreaser was nothing special, next time I will use a tide and cascade detergent as recommended by John with some TSP and SH. Cheers Rafal

Is there a tinting catalog that wood-tux offers or is it a basic standard color? I have never used their products before and am considering introducing them to my customers next season. From the looks of this post the results are magnificent. What is the durability of these wood tuxed decks may I ask.

I recently ran into a local listing of a hot water pressure washer powered by a Vanguard 16 HP engine. This unit is about 7 years old and has 965 hours on the clock. I don’t have to much experience with these types of units, it weights around 700 lbs. The burner is diesel fired. When it started up, there were sparks (maybe ashes) coming out of the exhaust of the burner, The unit looks in good shape other then that. It comes with a 75 ft hose and an extra 50 ft hose, a wand, and nozzles. The seller used the unit for exhaust cleaning. Just wanted to know if anyone could give me a rough figure of what this rig is worth and how much more life I can expect out of it with 965 hours. He said he changed the oil frequently and kept antifreeze in the unit when it was inactive. Thanks for any advice.

Thanks for the heads up. Will pre-wet everything and make sure it does not dry. Will this solution be harmful to brick by any chance? I have read nothing about SH being used for red brick. The reason I ask is that the house is about 30% red brick. The butyl degreaser is actually made for masonary and I hope this solotion will not effect the color of the brick in a negative way especialy if I pre-wet the brick. What do you think(know)?

I mixed my detergent tonight with a butyl degreasers from a chem supply store on LI, 12.5% SH in the form of pool schock, and TSP phosphate free that I picked up at a local store. I mixed 2 gallons of 12.5% SH with two gallons of the butyl degreases and toped it off with one gallon of TSP. This leaves a 5% SH level in the mixture. I am going to be X-Jetting this solution without a proportioner which will be roughly a 1.0-1.0 ration which brings the SH % to 2.5 on the house. I will let you know what the results are. If there is anything wrong with my math on the SH% in the mixture and what will hit the house let me know please. I am doing the project on Sunday.

It's a 4.8 gpm unit with 3000 PSI. He is asking 1700 for the unit, but the problem is it's mounted in a 1980 ford E350(which is included in the sale), it's a piece of junk that needs work to move. I have the ambition for this unit, but not the truck. He does not want to part it out, I wish it was on a trailer instead. Maybe I should buy it and fix the truck, but I cant imagine this thing making more the 5 miles per gallon.

I have read about simple green not being as effective as hoped for on stucco. I am going to call some local chemical stores on monday and find out about the 12.5% chlorine. Have you used this combination with success(12.5 SH + Simple Green)? Did you brush it becouse you had to or was that just a method of applying the solution. I will be using a M5 Xjet and would perfer the chemicals to do the job instead of brushing the whole house. Ofcourse I know I will have to brush the persistent places, but the whole house? *Edit It's Stucco

Hey Thanks for the reply, I have read every thread with stucco in the tittle on here and power washing network. I love to do my own research before I ask a question. 1) Sodium Metasilicate, TSP, and Bleach is a mixture that I am positive of. There was a guy on here as well as PWN who showed before and after picturs of stucco which were amazing. I have never mixed my own chemicals and have read that purchasing a solution is in favor considering there are ingrediants which are not listed in the MSDS which are vital. I have read of people using mixtures such as powerhouse produced by sunbrite, as well as citracleen(they did not claim good results with a 12% SH mix which was xjetted at 3-5 %). Once again I have the same questions as previously, is sodium precarbonate as effective as sodium hypoclorite. Also there are no suggestions as to the rations of these chemicals one would use while cleaning stucco. I have done my research and some things are still vague right now. I will continue to read more, this time on dryvit which should be the same procedures. Thanks again Rafal