JFife

Craig, Interested how you set up this network, or how it was created in the first place.

Okay, I'm already holiday-bored. Here is the game: Give me your analysis of this deck. How you feel it looks. What has been done to it recently/in the past. Was it done correctly?? How old do you think the finish is?? By the appearance, would you be happy with your decks looking like this after 'X' years?? Just start giving thoughts. Maybe it looks like a fresh restoration?? Whatever. After a few posts I'll give the history.

Ken, I just truly wonder if hot water WOULD make things easier or not. I've never even owned a hot machine, never needed to. But i do wonder on those decks that i've had to strip twice/three times, if hot water would have made a difference. I have determined this year that straight caustic soda is more "feltuous" (a term I'll coin) then professionally-mixed chems. I have also determined that bleach can be used very successfully in the right apps. And while

Great ideas Jeff. Antiime you read Jeff's posts, they come off very intense. Like he is excited when he is writing it. I am sure he takes that with him on the sales trail and a skill like that is priceless. People probably think he is excited, and happy, doing what he does and that is contagious. I've also been targeting more commercial work in the last few months than I ever have. While i mainly work on log homes, it is all the same. I go in, and the first person you hit is the Gatekeeper, usually the person you need to talk to's secretary. My quest starts like this: Me: Hi! gatekeeper (G): May I help you?? (wait for them to ask this) Me: hmmmm, I dunno, you see, (while handing a few cards) I am in the business of restoring log homes and doing structural and log repair, and I thought you guys would be a good place to send a brochure to. Who would be the person in charge of this sort of thing?? (knowing it is them) G: That would be Mr. Smith. Me: Ah, I see. Is this his office? Could I have his biz card? (always get cards) G: Sure. (hopefully by this time a conv. has started about what you do) Me: (if no conversation, ask what they've done in the past) This works for me, and I always get in to talk to the person I want. I actually never even end up sending a brochure, because I normally get in right away to discuss my services. I think Jeff is also correct in that these people just want someone reliable that will do a good job and not cause them trouble. Always, always, always remember, there is way more work out there than there are good people to do it. Like Jeff, always on the lookout for the next client. Get guerrilla, I've found decisionmakers before and followed them into places hoping they'll see my shirt and ask ME a question. Above all else, NETWORK. I'd think for doing things like Jeff does, there'd be some great civic orgs to join, maybe some type of condo manager association, etc. Make sure everyone knows what you do. People call me and have the wrong number and I say, "no, you've reached X, and this is the service we provide for log homes." Ya never know.

Jarrod, I think you may be correct in that we are all probably having a battle of semantics here, but it is educational for those like me that enjoy learning nonetheless. First, I'd question you time of restoring a deck (700sf) in an hour or so. I can see this for a re-coat strip for TWP or something, but I cannot buy it for stripping Behr, CWF, or other tough products. Another thing to consider when reading my points---I've not done a deck that I didn't think could improve by buffing. Maybe I'm not as skilled of a restorer as others, or perhaps my homemade solutions are improper, but I almost always get felting. I don't always correct it, but I see it. Regarding Ken Fenner's (PressurePro) point about his acquired knowledge of hot water use, I respectfully disagree with that as well. He points out that he KNOWS it damages wood, because he has seen what his competitors results are. I'd say different people get different results. Ken has gotten terrrible performance out of Readyseal. Beth/Rod don't like it. But check out Reedster's results with it and tell me it is a bad product. I put CWF on a deck one time and it did really well. I think the key was I did it PROPERLY, by the directions. Now Ken, if you go out and restore a deck YOUR way (the right way) and use warm/hot water and still see extreme destruction, then I'd say your point has validity. I personally think warm/hot water would be a great help for wood refinishing. Even if just used like Celeste said, to warm up the wood so the chems have a chance to work. Deck chems work best at 72deg, so I think that would be really helpful this time of year to extend some of you guys' seasons by a couple weeks on each side.

what if you built up to it Jim?? Do you ever use hot water?

Jarrod, I felt the same way when the guy told me he roto-blasted wood, but then I saw his final results and they looked like mine if I chemmed, blasted, or sanded. I just don't go for the whole damaged-deck/doomsday scenario others portray when talking about someone using bleach, hot water, rotoblaster, etc. It is always good to be thinking about different methods IMO. I actually have made a conscious effort in the last six months to try and re-learn/re-think all of the things I do on subconscious level (practically) to figure out if there are better/more efficient/more practical ways of achieving results. BTW, don't worry, nobody thinks you are bashing me/my methods. This board just happens to be hyper-sensitive to anything that can stir things up, since I suppose there are a lot of homeowners that peruse this site. So the mod's try and keep the reigns tight before things get away. I am also guilty of having a handful of edited posts:)

Jarrod, Painted/solid stain/sikkens/waterbase acrylic would most likely blast. Many reasons, mainly applying to logistics and the overall good of the job.

Celeste, It seems in theory that would be the case, but it is not, at least not with corn cob. I am experiementing though and may find a better way,

Congradulations to Ken Fenner for the best post of 2005, LOL :) Jarrod, depends. The appearance is pitted, but allows for rediculous pentration and absorbtion. Buffs smooth easily though. I stain most of my decks with TWP, and it looks great on blasted wood. Thing is, this isn't an efficient method for most. I only do it if the home is attached to a cabin and blasting would be easier than chem stripping. This is not a cost-effective solution (not that I've figured out), and the noise/dust creation would not be allowed near a subdivision full of decks. I'll try and find a couple good pics later.

Celeste, Usually corn or walnut......yep, terrible mess. Goes away in time, but is good for the grass, etc, and provides a good bed for plants. We try and blow it away as much as possible, but still gets everywhere. People complain about water coming in their house......at least water evaporates.

....while I calm myself after seeing that sexy, topless photo of RogerG in his avatar:) (LOL)....... I guess I missed all that got edited, as usual. I too wish the 'edit' buttons would break, but it is not my yard. Jarrod, regarding your assumed-correct way of restoring wood, I simply submit that you've learned that info from someone that has something to sell you. Your way works for you, great, but there are multiple ways to skin a rabbit. Now, if you could PROVE your way is best, then it would be something to listen to. But neither you nor I have enough money to properly test a theory and compare it against others. I sandblast a lot of decks, and I can assure you the result is better than what you achieve with chems. I've done both ways....so you'll have to trust me on that one. Is it a better "method"?? No, probably not, but since the 'result' is better would it mean that a chemical restoration is sub-par??? My point: Be open to knew ideas and methods, and question your perceived-truths. Do you REALLY think hot water damages wood, or are you regurjitating (sp) something someone else has told/sold you? Do you REALLY think it is better for wood to be bathed in Naoh than 100deg. water??

.....another difference between the eastern guys and the western guys. It astounds me how different the methods are from one side of the country to the other. I talk to many contractors in the west frequently, and nearly ALL of them use hot water for stripping (most are involved in home restoration). Get this.....I know guys that ONLY use rotary nozzles for restoring wood. No chems at all. Sounds crazy, but........if chems "damage" the wood, then why not just damage it with pressure, and avoid stripping paint, killing plants, etching glass, etc?? Besides, to look decent you have to buff/polish/sand the wood anyways......... IMO, it is always good to consider other methods and analyze them without bias (not referring to PP's pic, I couldn't open it). I think those in the east use methods that have essentially been taught/created by those making products for the particular application. To "water blast" a deck would not be profitable for them. So you create chems to do the job, "spin" info to propegate the idea that water/hot water damages wood, but chems do not, and you enhance the market for your products. Not trying to be a conspiracy theorist, but there are people that get some mighty fine results doing things differently than a PWNA wood course would suggest. Just some thoughts.

hey Ford guys...... don't get too attached to your 6.0L motors, they're history here in a couple months. From what I've heard, they've been a nightmare. They are changing the Superduty body style for the 07's (this summer) and this spring some of the new trucks will have the new diesel motor. It is a 6.4 International, a motor that has been around for a while and is not a "shrunk down" motor. Don't know any specs on it though, been scouring the chat rooms, etc. but haven't found out anything. BTW, love my 7.3L diesel, once you got diesel, it is tough to go back.

In my opinion, not very good, unless it is temporary. My take--I've seen pics you've posted of your equipment/operation, and it looks classy, professional. You are in an upscale market. You perform a high-end service, especially considering the concrete staining. For where it appears to me you are positioning yourself in your market and your service, you've swung and missed. Reasons: 1) You desparately need a logo, you have a great biz name, I'll already picturing all kinds of stuff. Remember Jon the Deaf guy/Oasis Pressure Washing?? Look to his logo to brainstorm. 2) No borders/shading/font usage/. 3) Needs some interesting reading/quips/tips. 4) Give a personal touch, moreso than a face shot of you. A pic with your guys all dirty standing next to a beautifully stained driveway, with big, proud smiles on their faces?? Photos of your nice, clean equipment?? 5) One good thing: I like the way the perimeter stays no matter what you click on, i.e. your photo, contact info on one side, the menu of clicks on the other. I think you should fork out a few bucks on a good site and logo to define yourself. If you don't wanna drop the cash right now, go ahead and get lined up with a designer, and pay them a smaller fee just for a logo and a teaser page with the contact info. I hope you take all I've said as constructive, the way it was meant. Also remember, it is just my opinion, and if 100 others respond and say it is the best site they've ever seen, I'd ignore my post. Good luck with things,

IMO, if you are going to go to Hawaii go to Maui and skip The main isle (w/ Honolulu) unless you are a surfer. I believe this is peak surf season at Waikiki, but may be wrong. I've been to Maui a couple times, specifically Kaanapali beach. Beautiful, smaller crowds, and more intimate. Nice golf courses if you have the desire/money. Truly, Maui makes Honolulu look like Florida.

Russ, have you tried the WTW yet in this weather?? I understand it is quite thick, would you apply more water now to aid in penetration, or what changes would you make?

I try and work all year. Have to be cautious with your products, and know how they all react to weather changes. For instance, I know i can put TWP on wood with moisture in the higher teens. I also know I can apply it down to near-freezing, as long as I warm the product (leave it indoors). Still penetrates and dries reasonably fast. Just put it on a cabin deck last week in Northern MO in the evening when it was around 45-50deg. By the time we had finished spraying, most of the deck was already dry. RS can be used down near freezing as well, but the problem with it is the need to get 12% moisture.

....I think the guy said 15K for a "trailer set-up", which is reasonable. Obviuosly, you can get a machine for less, but for reels, traler, etc., 15K is reasonable. As a newbie, buy local for support.

Ryan H, ...similar problem here. Luckily my cousin has an hvac biz, and solved it. He says the MAJORITY of homes have very inefficient ductwork, etc. He says the key is BALANCE, having the right sized duct for the house/units, multiple returns in correct places, sheet metal duct rather than flex, etc. He commonly goes into homes where the system is literally strangling itself, he's taken peoples energy bills from $600 a month down to $150 just by tweaking things, i.e. add a return, larger duct,. Point is, I'd say your "hot room" situation could be easily fixed by an expert hvac guy that is a good troubleshooter and understands how to properly calculate the numbers that determine the system layout.

....Anyone got a cool car?? I am in the market for a 66' Chevelle, convertible if I can find it. Fixer up'er. So what do you guys have/looking for??

hmmm, I've always wondered how you housewash guys deal with this one. What I'd think is worse are the decks that are unfinished. I assume you are pre-wetting, and not just rinsing?? That would help. Besides that, I'd just make sure to disclaim it. Some people like Beth and Rod do both of these services and may offer a better answer, but that's the best I've got.

i agree with Jeff and Craig, anyone running a professional business has no business putting flyers on mailboxes. It looks shoddy and fly-by-night. There are LEGIT ways of doing freebies, it just takes more work. Most places (check ordinances) it is legal to do doorhangers. Sometimes you can knock on doors (which is the best IMO). Just suck it up and send postcards, you'll reap big rewards and not waste a days worth of gas and time doing something illegal.

Larry, I also like the grill, as well as the little "triangle" on the side of the headlights. Those details, and the different taillights are the only differences I believe.

Hey Larry, ...Post some pics of the Chevelle if you get a chance. 67' is my second fav, but I'm gonna hold out for a 66'. Ever think about just stepping up to a 502 rather than a 427?? Everyone knows the cheapest HP comes from c.i. :) Definitely something cool about saying you've got a 427 though:) PressurePro, I know what you mean about the lopping at idle. My first car was a 69' chevelle, had to sell when i went to college for something more economical. Cool to idle across gravel and everytime the cam turns over the tires "slip" just a little:) I want to paint my 66' baby blue with a little flake to it (so it doesn't look girly) and do the interior out in all pearl. 17's in the front, 18's in the back. Just a decent crate 350ci will do, Muncie 4 speed, and a killer system. Ah, the dream.