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It looks to me like for the most part, sodium hypochlorite should get rid of that problem. Being it's so heavy on there you may want to go to 4%-6% product hitting the building, because it's gonna want to run off fast, even with some added cling added to the mix.. At least I would. I personally use a little hydroxide mixed in with the the bleach and water for a good basic house wash mix., you may want to try a little of that if the bleach and water doesn't do the trick on it's own. But don't use alot, it can cause the paint to possibly bubble. So be careful and go with small amounts.Very easy to dissolve also, unlike TSP.Could possibly need painted anyhow, because that heavy of growth can lift the paint on it's own. Good luck!! Jeff

Man, I really like the General Rotomax. Seems fast compared to the Suttner I used. Will also shoot a zero degree if needed. Never used feature myself though. Also, make sure you get the filter with it, not even sure why they would sell them without a filter. They have a ceramic orifice and one little particle can ruin your nozzle . Jeff

Add some Sodium Hydroxide to the gutter mix if you have trouble. Jeff

I'm glad we live in a vanity filled world where everything has to be nice. Because my phone has been RINGING!! Always wonder how the cost of living is gonna effect my phone, but it still seems to be working just fine!!

Thats a good thought Chris, and it is very effective on mildew. And I have tried it, and it does work, but it will leave a whitish haze on anything it dries on. Not just the siding but anything. And I have used it in the past for roofs, it did work for me up here. I didn't like mixing it because it doesn't completely mix up. I wish you could buy that stuff without the filler, but even Univar only has 65%, which seems weird to me. But the price of SH is $3.77. And 1 lb. of CH will make five gallons compared to the 2 gallons I'm getting from SH. And over volume that will be considerable. I;m still MESSing with it. I could also buy and store more at a time. It actually works pretty well up here Chris, just messy. I would be more inclined to actually switch if I could mix up a bunch at a time and not worry about degrading product. You know, get the mess out of the way. Jeff

I have been using percarbonate for deck cleaning, don't like mixing it. I was wondering if anyone has ever bought 30% liquid peroxide? I understand it to be volatile. But just would like to hear others' opinions on it. Probably not as cost effective but, like I said don't like the mixing. Jeff

Ok, I use 1 cup sodium percarbonate per gallon of water. Is the an average or is it too much or to little. It seems to work fast, maybe too fast. Maybe I can cut it back some and make the mixing easier. About what percent is my mix? If anyone can tell me. Thanks!! Jeff

Thanks for the reply, I kinda knew that was coming, but figured I'd ask. Again thanks. Jeff

Go buy some Dickies uniform pants and Dickies button-up work shirts. They don't spot up from bleach. I wear the blue pants and brown button-up shirts. The brown shirts do spot up slightly, but it is not very noticeable. But the blue pants are very resilient to the effects of bleach. About $20 a pair for the pants and I think around $15 for the shirts at Wal-Mart. Well worth it though. Jeff

It's probably oxidized and the darker wand marks are where the oxidation was removed and the original color is coming through. Probably needs re-done thoroughly to remove the rest of the oxidation. Jeff

I had a customer call me last night and said he applied straight Clorox to his deck and it dried with a white haze after rinsing with a garden hose. I know what he's talking about, but what is the simplest way to get rid of the white hazing? Told them I'd come by today and look at it but didn't promise anything. Thanks!! Jeff

Thanks for the quick response. Never dealt with that white haze before. Jeff

Any suggestions on cleaning the brick inside a home? Not real bad but near a fireplace, barely blackened. I'm not doing it, I told the customer,...to much risk of the bad. I only know how to clean outside brick. He wanted me to plastic it all off,...it's a brand new room, floor, walls and ceiling. It was an afterthought he said. But I'm not interested at all. But was wondering how anyone else would tackle this. Thank you. Jeff

Yes, that is what it is. Not as bad as the picture you have up though. Thanks for the suggestion. I actually have a prosoco dealer within 40 miles. Still not interested in doing it but I told the customer I'd research a possible solution he could put to use. He's a contractor re-doing the house, so he's probably capable of doing it Jeff

Has anyone ever ordered from Diedrich Technologies? Just wondering about their service. The closest I can get the 101 masonry restoration cleaner is about 50 miles from me. I just need enough to do a test spot and was wondering about ordering from them and if they have minimum orders. I could just ask them but I like to hear from real experiences. Also any other suggestions on masonry restoration products I may want to consider would be welcome. Thanks!! Jeff

Thanks for the info!! Jeff

This is when it's nice to have a friend in the painting business. This stuff happens here and there. I did a job last year where I was cleaning the fascia, and where two pieces came together, one held up great and the other, directly next to it went to silver aluminum. Never figured that out, as it has actually happened a handful times in 11 years. I guess it's where the roll of aluminum was changed, I don't know. But it is easier to just get it painted and move on. The only thing you can really do to prevent having to re-do paint is evaluate the work the best you can before hand and alert the customer as to what the possible outcome could be. Then it's acknowledged that paint may come off and you're not liable anymore. BUT there is always gonna be that situation here and there, just like I experienced with the example I put up. There's no shame in having to re-paint something, the shame would be to argue with the customer that it wasn't your fault. Jeff

My number is (814)644-1396. Jeff

I use ladders and go up the ladder with a regular 15" wand, the cleaner tank is stationary in my van and the cleaner is applied with a roller pump. I take a mr. Longarm brush up the ladder with me and scrub the siding and gutters. Then I come down and rinse from the ground, the extension I use on my wand is a 6 ft. heavy walled aluminum, (easy to handle after 11 years of using it). Then I move on to he next spot. This makes the best job and it is alot faster than you would think. It also set the bar high enough that no one else can stay in business very long in my area, simply because I'm doing ALOT more detailed work than anyone else is willing to do. The use of ladders is not asinine, as I think alot of people think,..they're made for work and made to make work easier, which they do when used properly. I also don't DS or x-jet anything, not detailed enough for me. I like to apply with a separate sprayer. Jeff

Sounds like you already know what you're doing. Although I don't see how 16' of 1/4" aluminum tubing has enough backbone to to do anything with any accuracy at all. Maybe I am picturing it wrong. But if that works for you then just do that. I use ladders myself, more manageable and makes for more overall ease. Jeff

It will be to flimsy if you try and make it very long. Jeff

I know you're not looking for the ladder answer, but when seated properly and with the use of a stabilizer, ladders are plenty safe. It's hard to reach two stories in a manageable way without the use of a ladder. Almost any application method from the ground is not gonna be efficient. Not what you wanted to hear I'm sure. Jeff

There isn't always a correction method, especially with this type of thing. Best to avoid the problem if possible. A lot of times the more you go after it the worse it can get. First and foremost is the customer being aware of the possible outcome. Never sugarcoat any predictions when discussing these jobs with with the customer. And if they don't seem to comprehend then move on. And obviously always look at the more oxidized side when making a determination. By the way, we haven't any idea what this job is like so don't look at it as though were trying to make it difficult. The pitfalls here is what we're trying to help you avoid. Smooth aluminum seems to oxidize worse than the type with texture or "woodgrain" look. That has always been my experience anyhow. Jeff Jeff

Oxidation is the main concern, It is usually worse on one or two sides. Having experience and learning how to evaluate the condition and whats going to happen,... is the best way you can deal with oxidized aluminum. You just need to be able to tell the customer what to expect. It's hard to tell anyone what to do with aluminum sided houses as they can all be different without seeing the job in person Jeff

As long as the pressure side is "smooth" it should be fine. If it's starting and stopping or vibrating in your hands, then your probably starving it for water. I don't think it will hurt it, as long it's not completely out of water for very long,.. but I don't really know. You won't want to use it that way anyhow. You need to by-pass though. Jeff