814jeffw

I would have to try the bleach myself. Maybe they just want you to use an alternative to bleach so they took it out of the picture by saying it didn't work when "they" tried it. Just a thought, as some customers tend to read to much and seem to learn only the negative sides of things like bleach. Jeff

One other thing to check is the male end. Sometimes an edge will build up on the male end due to the ball bearings in the female end squeezing from pressure. I just take a file or even a fine grinding wheel on a bench grinder and smooth it back down flush. You can do this numerous times, just be careful to only remove a little though. I have this problem also, especially with the regular steel ones. I use mostly stainless now and the problem has been really minimal. Jeff

Maybe the cascade you mentioned, or experiment with Borax a little, as I believe it helps soften water and will possibly allow for cleaner rinsing. Jeff

Inadequate rinsing and/or hard water are usually the culprits here. That mix shouldn't streak considering the afore mentioned are not an issue. Jeff

My comment was directed at Chris, as I found it ironic that he started this thread about divulging info and he has a direct line to these forums on his site. I personally do not worry about DIY'ers. There will always be DIY'ers but they only make up a small percentage of potential customers. My business is not going to be affected by a few. Most customers have no interest in doing these jobs themselves,...it's just not worth it,.....they already have a job or are retired and have no interest in doing this when they can just pay to have it done. And there's always gonna be hacks out there who do it on the side for extra cash,..but they come and go,... and always will. Jeff

Apple Roof Cleaning - Tampa Florida Roof CleaningChris, you should maybe consider removing the link to the *** forum from your website,...because as you say, a potential customer could just click on that link and get educated enough to try it for themselves. Yes people will find the info anyhow, but if your concerned about this type of info getting leaked you should not enable them by giving them easy access to a forum full of info. Jeff

Are there spacers between each of the four bolts that connect the pump to the engine? If you can gain just enough space between your pump and engine to get nuts in between each of the four holes,...you can then run a long bolt (should be about 4" I guess) into each hole through the nut and into the engine use one wrench to hold the bolt and another wrench for the nut , then you can turn the nuts to start backing the pump off the shaft. You have to alternate so you don't bind it up. This will work every time. I hope you were able to grasp what I am saying. Taking a pump off a shaft can be a bear but I figured this out a few years ago, the use of anti seize never hurts during the re-install. Also use spacers the next time so the space between the pump and engine so they are there for the next time. If you don't understand what I'm saying you can call me at (814)644-1396 and I'll try and explain it better. Jeff

That is irritating, you could probably rinse all day and it wouldn't stop. Best to let it dry and apply some oxalic acid, that should work may take more than one application. Jeff

Considering you're talking about everyday dirt and grime, it has been my experience with flagstone that if you apply 6% chlorine to the surface and let dwell for about 5 minutes and then wash away the softened dirt and mildew, you'll achieve nicer results than with just water blasting,...those black and green algae and mildew spots on flagstone are tough to clean without chemical assistance. It may take more than one application to get the desired results, especially if they've never been done properly before. Basically the same thing with concrete, except I use a little caustic soda in with the chlorine because concrete is usually more porous than flagstone and the caustic adds a little extra cleaning power to help soften the dirt and mildew. Then I sometimes apply oxalic acid to the cleaned surface to brighten the concrete up some. If you do a lot of concrete cleaning a surface cleaner is BIG advantage. Oh, by the way, before spraying any chemicals take personal precaution and soak all surrounding ground and vegetation because even a little over spray of chemical will turn leaves brown and possibly kill plants. You are going to have chemical run off the edges during rinsing so make sure you have the dirt pre-soaked before rinsing the surface. Jeff

Just wondering how sure you are it's sealer, I may not be following, was it blown on there from the power washing or was it blown on there from the sealer application? People can be boneheads,.. but I find it a little hard to believe that they would have needed to clean up a freshly sealed driveway by water blasting, maybe I'm wrong but wouldn't sealing be the last step of the process. I tend to think if it's sealer it was applied by sprayer and what you're seeing is over spray. Hard to tell from where I'm at though. A little off the subject but,.. Isn't concrete supposed to sit for a while before sealing anyhow? If you determine it is definitely sealer, ask the contractor what sealer was used (brand, and whether it's water based or oil based). Jeff

I've also seen these composite decks turn colors from one board to the next. I've seen them with purple spots, I've seen color ranges from rose to green on the same deck. In fact I commented about it at one job I was at and the lady told me " Yea, thats what the composite is supposed to do" I think she called it "coming out". I think she was just trying to justify her purchase. This stuff is expensive and it looks really "cheesy". I inform anyone who is about to make a purchase of this stuff as to what they're potentially in for. On the other side of it though I have seen it installed under roof and it seemed to be holding its color rather well, so it must be very sensitive to the Sun. But it still looks way to cheesy for my taste, and under roof wood will hold up better also,.... and look nice. I guess I've spouted about enough on this subject. Jeff

I can change my own oil and brakes etc... but I get my mechanic to do it,...for a couple of reasons: Less hassle on my part He has to eat to, I'm happy people patronize my business, so I try to do the same for other business',...after all that's what makes the World go 'round. And I believe there are a lot of people with the same outlook, so I wouldn't let this bother you at all. She just sounded like a knothead!! Jeff

There's one thing these boards do not teach. Reading how to do something is one thing,... having the EXPERIENCE to do it is another thing altogether. I've never been cornered in the way you mentioned, and probably never will be. I am steadfast on price because as soon as you start doing instant reductions you're cheapening yourself and your service. I price work on the "What is it worth for me to do it" method. I've had people tell me they had other estimates that beat mine, I say, then that's who I'd probably call because I'm not budging,......usually just a rouse to get you to bring your price down, otherwise they would just have called the other guy. Jeff

If there are nearby neighbors check their plants. Can't imagine that mix is strong enough to cause plant damage. But I'd say if his plants in the "work zone" are the only ones that show to be dying and the others in the yard are fine and the neighbors' are fine then I'd say just replace the plants and move on. Just sitting here not knowing all the details and knowing how the weather has been here in Central Pa I'd say the weather extremes was to blame, was in the low twenties last week a couple of times here. Are there a lot of plants? Personally though I'd not offer money back, I'd offer to replace the plants, for one thing you don't want to cause someone a problem and then have them have to do the work to correct the problem. And two, you could probably give some money back and they'd let the plants the way they are. Jeff

I apply my products differently than most here do so I'm not sure if my mixing information will help you much. I run everything through a roller pump so my mix is the final mix. I personally like this method because I have more control of the spray and the mix is very precise because it's pre-mixed. Personal preference is all. As far as the chlorine goes you should need no more than 3% hitting the house, but like I said you'll have to play a little to find what best suits your needs. Not to mention that all jobs are not the same as some may require tweaking your mix to suit the job. My basic mix is 7 gal. 12.5% chlorine, 2 lbs. sodium hydroxide and 28 gal. water to make 35 gal. of final product. Then I use a separate sprayer to apply the butyl based product for the black gutter streaks. Some here can probably point you in the right direction for different application methods and products. You'll find what suits you best over time. Good luck!! Jeff

I have a couple of questions about F-13(gutter grenade).I have always used butyl based products to remove the black streaking on gutters. My house wash mix contains bleach, so adding butyl to that mix is not an option. I always do the gutters with a separate sprayer, not really a big deal. But I'm always looking. From what I understand you can mix F-13 with chlorine, which would allow it to be mixed with my existing house wash. Now, is F-13 as good a cleaner for gutters as butyl based cleaner? And is it cost effective to add F-13 in an amount needed to a house wash mix for targeting gutter streaks as compared to the cost of butyl based cleaner run through a separate sprayer. I realize it's probably hard to beat the cost of using approximately a couple gallons of butyl at mixed strength (50/50),approximate cost $2-$3. But if it is close in comparison it would be worth the one less step involved. I hope my rambling here didn't confuse anyone. Jeff

You need to take some of the basics from this site and play a little. And starting weaker is better than starting stronger. All of the "recipes" you have seen probably work for whoever posted it, they're gonna vary depending on geographic location and application method. But remember chlorine will mix with only a few other chemicals so be very careful when "playing". As far as painted wood goes, I personally wash it with the same mix I use on vinyl. Good quality paint will clean up very nice. I don't run into Cedar shingles much here in Central PA, so you may want to go over to the wood care and deck forum for that info. My choice for house wash mix is chlorine and sodium hydroxide. Very basic, but also very effective, and no compromises. Although I should mention this mix will not clean the black streaks from gutters, you'll need a butyl based cleaner to remove those. Jeff

Just a quick note to maybe prevent you trouble down the road. You said you weren't sure about the fading of the shudders, this type of thing is something you want to take notice of in the future with potential customers. Anytime you go look at a job make sure you take notice and point out to the customer any type of damage, such as cracked windows, holes in siding or faded shudders. Often customers will not even realize they have a cracked window or such and not notice it until they get out and start looking at how their house turned out after you're done. If this stuff is not brought to their attention beforehand they may think you did it. In most cases I wouldn't think a customer would try and pin something on you if they were aware already, but if they wholeheartedly believe you did it then they may want you to fix the issue, like replace or repaint those faded shudders. I might add, take notice of the vegetation and point out any dead or dying plants and/or grass. Jeff

Thanks for the feedback, I think I'll try some. Jeff

Hi Doug, thanks for the ratio information. I have seen the issue of butyl and chlorine being mixed on here in the past and don't know how it turned out. But I tried it once to see for myself and I didn't like the smell that came from it, nothing violent like turning frothy or anything just didn't like the smell. In my own testing they seemed to neutralize each other to a certain degree so I just ended it there. I am still not sure about the mixing of those two in the real World, but for my World I decided to stay away from it. Also it would seem wasteful to mix enough butyl based cleaner into my mix to make it strong to do what is only minimal surface area (gutters). I mix 35 gallons at a time and wouldn't want to waste a bunch of butyl based into a whole house wash mix. Wouldn't be cost effective.Not that big a deal to use a separate sprayer, was just wondering about the effectiveness of the f-13.I have a feeling it probably won't be as cost effective putting enough F-13 into the mix neither. I may buy a batch of F-13 and play a little." Pound for pound" which is better F-13 or butyl based cleaner? Jeff

Thanks for the response, I may give it a try. As far as temperature, it's the same with butyl based. When you mix it separately at what ratio, if you don't mind me asking, would be nice to have a starting point. Thanks!! Jeff

Here is a picture of a short gun I made. Very nice for confined areas such as small porches. Makes for nice detailed rinsing in the smaller areas. Just took an old gun and cut it down. Nicer than just using the trigger for shortening up because it still has the adjustable pressure. Jeff

Has anyone ever rebuilt an unloader. I have been using Suttner ST261 unloaders and was wondering if anyone ever does rebuilds. It's just been easier to replace them. But I have a few laying around and was wondering if they're able to be refurbished. Cold here in Central Pa so just looking to get my fingers on something I guess.Not sure what makes them go bad, seals, wear on metal parts or what. Not trying to skimp, but I'll save anytime I can. Jeff

I'd say you're probably right. Maybe I'll take one apart and look for anything visibly wrong. Jeff

I started doing this a couple of years ago. I drill two 1/2" holes into the hand guard part of the handle and then wrap several layers of black tape over the holes, then I run a 3/8" bit through the black tape to create a grommet for the nozzles to stick in. Very easy fix for keeping a couple of nozzles on hand. Just thought I'd share. Jeff