B.A.

Appreciate all the feedback ya'll....the customer is not happy with the single coat, going back to apply a second. Will provide information both ways acrylics vs. oil and let him make the decision. Good info all around.

I tried a search on this topic, couldn't find what I was looking for, so here goes... Client loves the look of a newly stained deck with A/C cedar-two coats, however the following year mold and mildew appear on his heavily shaded deck. When we clean it; we fade it and have to recoat. Currently we're stripping and resealing it every two years. The Question: Which products have higher organic inhibitors that may be ideal for this project moving forward?

Craig: It was OneRestore. (Eachochem)

Craig: what about brick that is surfaced colored. Talking about the bricks that are treated or colored after they're fired or baked. Not exactly sure of the process but acids WILL remove that coating. I had to pay $500 for a company that specializes in matching existing brick to come fix our (technicin's boo boo, I would have tested first) boo boo. Any experience with this?

Hey everybody- another problem has occurred for the A-Team. [ATTACH]20280[/ATTACH] This project was a rescue [iN APRIL] for a homeowner that moved in and found the deck in a bad way (coatings wise). there were a few different types of stain that were on it, one of them definitely being an acrylic (possibly even sikkens dek). We stripped it twice and got down to 5%-8% residual stain (mostly on the rails and verticals) Sanded. Our stain selection was A/C redwood semi. Looked good, customer happy. Customer called a couple of days ago and sent me the pic you see above. I know we neutralized and rinsed the hell outta this deck so ....what gives? Also sidenote: Best way to remove stain drops from pavers after a week or two?

Thanks everybody, got rained out during tail end of this redo yesterday...going back for a SECOND strip :sorrow: today. thanks Beth on the brush tips, there are some areas underneath some built in benches that your technique will come in handy. I will continue to document.

Going to redo this project. Did not try the solvents, customer wants redo. _H_T Happens. Part of the job-Always learning. Thanks Everybody.

hopefully the pictures above transferred correctly. stained this deck last Thursday with Sikkens cedar semi, hot day was sucking it right in, so applied a wet coat. the history with this deck is that it was built a yer ago with PTP and the builders stained it with 3 coats of something (an oil base not Behr). It looked pretty bad; continuity was definitely an issue. So we come in....strip, wash, neutralize, and sand, and at the customers request use the Sikkens. No problem, I've used Sikkens- expensive, prefer AC, but whatever, it's a semi trans oil, so I'm happy-.........until the streaks or as we're calling it "The Sheen" My guess here: 1. PTP that was never allowed to weather contributing to inconsistent absorption rates? 2. Gonna try to knock off sheen with a sanding sponge? 3. Doubt customer will be satisfied with until it is uniform and continuous, but if we strip again, should we advise to allow PTP to weather? Thanks

It's not redwood, just PTP. She wants nothing red, or dark even....maybe the amber would work....but I dunno. I'll try the amber with her....we've been giving her samples to try out, she's said no to cedar and redwood semi's. even a natural from TWP, she doesn't like any of it......

Natural Toner?

Hey All: I have a client looking to keep the look of her deck in the state of where we have it now. We have stripped, Washed, and neutralized. She says she has previous experience with putting on a non pigmented oil and stated it still darkened the wood (however it looked like we stripped a brown stain off the deck). Any ideas....she's looking at a product from home Depot called Wood Rx (its acrylic) so I'm like "NOOOOOO". Any thoughts?

Hey guys, Was wondering if anyone has run into this: Brick substrate (vertical), with residual "liquid nails" and rubber epoxy from previous signage. This is a commercial property and you can see from the picture they put up new letters (signage) over the old glue and adhesive and NOW they want to remove what's kinda in between the new letters. Signage appears to be a stainless steel. I have tried goof off (not strong enough) and Eacochem's Acrylicstrip (worked ok on the clear glue or caulk, turned it semi-gelatinous and I was able to scrap off) however liquid nails or colored glue remains. I'm thinking of some sort of paste, i dunno, thoughts? **pay no attention to thumbnail pix (I can't seem to delete it?!)**

I am on the Ac bandwagon.

Yeah, slowdown is still a concern for us. 4 yr old company 1 full time 1 part time employee (not including me). The plan this year was to put aside the pre-calculated revenues for the upcoming winter, however a slow spring is hurting this plan of action, in addition some unforseen expenses and a strong desire to continue to grow is eating the capital as fast as it comes in... I dunno a second stream of income sounds really good. Floor finishing may be the way to go. Now we start the process all over of perfecting the "art of interior floor finishing" and providing the necessary capital for marketing this service to your service area...on and on.........

I will be starting with Sikkens this year and then switching to Readyseal.