itswillist

I'd concur with the bleach not being potent enough to make a big difference, but I'd like to know how the public reacted to a chem. that doesn't affect the barrier at all. Don't get me wrong, I love SH (bleach) and use it on every house, but it would be interesting to see how one could "up-sell" a chem. that didn't harm the barrier .. Although the product would prob. cost $15.00 a gallon ....

Hey fella's I've been using the normal bleach (w/ herbs and spices) in my chem. tank, I've been hearing about this "12.5% Sodium hyp." I was told it was basically pool shock. I went to the pool store and looked around and all they have is normal pool shock in the powder like 100% calcium hyp. stuff. They said they don't sell this 12.5% SH so my question is this: Can you dilute pool shock and use it ? If so what is the ratio ? and where would one purchase the 12.5% SH ?

Normally I close my eyes and click my heels together, and say "Not Now" 3 times in a row.. that normally works, if not I'm screwed ...

Ahh, I tried univar earlier today ... and after waiting on the phone for 10 min. the salesman says "sorry we can't sell it to you" so I called a company that they can sell it to and asked If I could buy it from them ... lol, it gets better .. he says "sure" then calls me back and tells me his insurance won't let him sell it to me ... Louisiana, home of the largest chemical plants in the world and no 12.5% SH for lil. ol me :( please, any more advice ????

ahh, I'll have to print this one out and tack it on my wall so my girl friend will believe that my college degree and pressure washing do go hand in hand.... :) That sounds good, but my question is still: where can I buy 12.5% SH (liquid chlorine) if not at a pool store ??? Do you know of a place that I could order it from ?? _ I know normal household bleach is around 6% I want the 12.5% stuff...

So just buy chlorine powder ?? At what proportion should I use it ? I'm used to the house hold bleach at around 30% in my chem tank.. How many cups chlorine to gallons of water ???

I just received my sweet looking respirator today ... I hope it all works well, do you guys know of a glass type that doesn't get all oxidized when chems get on it ... ??? just curious for (for eyewear reasons)

Anyone know of a good company with good rates that provides business truck insurance for pressure washing ??? My insurance said they wouldn't cover me if I was in an accident doing anything affiliated with my company. (this is normal coverage "geico") so I'm looking for some cheap coverage for my business/personal truck ....

I'll give them a call and see...

12.5 % SH ... a strong batch, and simple cherry .. Low pressure .. keep the grass wet the whole time, apply, rinse, reapply ... Use the x-jet if you have one (better reach, better aplicaiton)

called state farm, for the minimum the state requires was 2100 / year... The minimum ... with 500 deductable.

I have a clean record ....

I called them (progressive) just now, I have an 05 chevy silverado and I was trying to just get almost minimum insurance and they told me 3000 / year ... They don't like the fact that im 24 yrs old ... :(

I've been using the downstream method to apply my chems but A) I can never seem to get a strong enough batch of chem. out of it. Always seems way watered down. Can I counter this by using a very potent batch in my chem tank ? I've heard of people using the x-jet to apply chems, some swear by it and some go back to downstreaming ... All I know is my downstreamer gives me a good bit of problems with the lil. low pressure ball sticking and what not (having to pull it apart and fix it) it never seems to consistently draw the same amount of chem out of it. (some days are better than others, some days it doesn't work at all) Would any of you reccomend the x-jet with the long and short range tip on it ? Does this apply more chem. ? I know it runs in after the hose and I like that to. All I know was that the last house I washed was 3 x easier b/c the right amount of chem. was coming out my wand from downstreaming, I need this on every house, not just every now and then.

yeah, I would think more hose would be a must ..

..... Somethings gota give .....

Just making sure I wouldn't be the only guy out there wearing all this stuff. But yeah, It'd make me feel better at the end of the day (and my life) I'm going to get some protective clothing, respirator, and what not. Like I said, if it was only a few a week it would be questionable .. but doing 10 - 15 a week .. for years on in ... HMM ... Just don't want my kids to have 6 fingers .. ya know

I'm curious about it as well. I've been down streaming, and it seems as though even when I have a pretty potent batch in the chem tank it's still to weak. I'm going to change my method, b/c my last job for some reason I had the correct amount of chem. applying from down streaming and the job was 3 x easier than normal... I need that consistently (not just every now and then) That stupid lil. suction ball thing in the down streamer always gets stuck and my chems don't come out right .... :(

I'm no expert in steeple cleaning, but I've been on my share of roofs. All I can say is " sometimes you just have to have a man lift." Explain to the pastor the complications and risks involved, ask him if he know what the steeple is made out of, and tell him that it's a job in itself. If the chem isn't working you may need to get a lift to get a good "hit at it" But I agree with Ken, "The mold may be in the paint" I've delt with that before .. Straight chem, scrubbing with brush, hot high pressure and still not removing it... That's when you just have to paint it and be done with it..

I'm about to get some of that (gutter grenade) what's the best ratio to dilute it ? I read 20:1 is that correct ?

I'm starting to line up my jobs that require helpers wed - fri and the one man jobs on Mon and Tues.. This way I have my helper(s) wed - fri. and they're not sucking me dry... but it's nice having extra hands, feet, eyes, and brains. I love telling my helper to get a wet rag and wipe down all the window seals and door frames, and pick up the hoses and such... that's worth 50$ to me right there ... I hate unloading and reloading by myself.. I have like 200' of hose to deal with... "Where there are no oxen the stall stays clean, but there is much increase from the strength of an ox" - Solomon, (Book of Proverbs)

Hey Daniel, a woman called me a couple of days ago named "Diane" from watson, LA asking the same things she asked you... I'm wondering if it's worth me going to bid her house... ?? May just be a wasted trip, I'd like to shoot really low to scare her if she's trying to "play me" but it would suck if she really is an interested customer ... lol ... another day in paradise.

the hot water is not a must, but it helps with tough stains, oil, and grease .... mildew, and dirt come off easy with cold water but GPM is an important factor as well as pressure.. You need an adequate amount of pressure to make that 24" cleaner run right .. I'd stick with 3500 psi and atleast 4 GPM ... Currently for flat work I'm in the .10 sq ft.. but if the area is pretty bad and the water doesn't drain well then I begin rasing that price ...... - just my .10 Cents ... hope it helps.

Hey Hey, I'm thinking of making a second unit.. Trying to decide if I should rig out a truck (with burner unit in bed) or a trailer ... I know for some of these lil. homes with narrow driveways and ditches on both sides it would be much easier to have just a truck... Before I get started on this thing I just wanted to get some input..... ???

Hmm, these vans sound pretty nice. I just love trucks though, Yesterday I did a job that required a good bit of stomping around in the mud.. When it was over my coveralls were filthy and my rubber boots were caked with mud.. so I took it all off threw it in the bed of the truck and went on my way !