Brian Keating

It got down in the mid 30's last night and that got me thinking about winterizing. I have a cold water unit that will be stored for the winter and was wondering what needs to be done to it before I store it.

We had a server crash early last week without warning. Everything has been restored. It's nice to see that people are still checking in.

It's best to back brush/pad the whole desk. It helps to push the stain into the wood. You get better penetration that way

Does anyone know what the current milage price is? I am using $0.365. Is this the current amount per mile?

Oxalic and never rinse.

I have an old Deckster in my garage that needs to have the pump rebuilt. There is a leak in the pump. The motor is very strong though. Email me if your interested. I bought it in 2003. I upgraded to a newer model this year. Here is my email address: bkeating13@ameritech.net

Reed, I talked to Tood last week and he told me the same thing. I haven't had the flashing problem but increasing the amount of oil should make it even better. Have you tried the Harvest Brown yet? Very close the Ready Seal Light Brown. Is the Bright Cedar light then Light Brown? One last question, did you use it on Cedar or PT?

Try Easy Off Oven cleaner or stripper. If you leave a shadow it will fade fairly quickly.

Just one word, BEAUTIFUL! I am planning to build a new deck in the fall and hope to put Ipe on the floor. I will probably do the rails in cedar and stain them a solid white. I love two tones.

You may find this hard to believe but I will be using the TimberPro products this year. I am also trying out the F-18 stripper. Have had good results so far.

I had a customer last year that didn't get along with their neighbor so they paid me to take down the sections of fence, stain them and put them back up. Believe it or not it probably saved me a ton of time because the neighbor had a 4 foot fence they refused to take down when the new one was put up and I would have had to work around it. I always leave it up to the customer to let neighbors know that I will be in their yard working on a fence. Haven't had a problem yet. Knock on wood!

If anyone is looking for Defelting Pads I have them instock. www.deckguide.com

Tried a cup when I was 9 or 10 years old and haven't touched it again. Give me a Coke or Mountain Dew and I'm good to go.

If it's not a huge deck try to sell them on re-decking the floor with new wood and applying a new coat of acrylic on the vertials. The time and materials would probably come really close.

Very nice looking deck, Get Job!

Beautiful job! What kind of time was put into this project. I'm sure it was a nice payday.

Robert, I hope you are getting paid by the word to promote F-18. Every post I read you are talking about it. I have tried it and yes it's a good product. But you make it sound like a god send. I have to agree with Beth and Tony when I say I would choose TimberStrip or HD-80 over F-18 when I have a tough finish to remove.

If you have to wait 2 hours between cleaning and staining wouldn't that be enough time for the surface to dry enough to defur the surface. As long as there isn't any staining water I bet you could use a brush or pad to remove the fuzzies.

Make sure to do a test patch. New stain is a lot harder to remove then stuff that has had a couple years in the sun. This maybe a harder strip job then you think.

Step 1: The first step in restoring your deck, fence or other wood structure is the evaluation process. We will provide consultation, obtain measurements and perform a test patch to determine exactly what needs to be done to restore the natural beauty of your wood. We provide samples of our finishes and before and after photographs of previous jobs. At this time you will also be presented with a list of frequently asked questions and an outline of your maintenance program. Step 2: Depending on the present condition of your wood, this step may consist of finish removal and/or a deep cleaning. If a finish has been previously applied, your wood may require multiple applications of our specially designed TimberStrip Pro™ biodegradable wood stripper. The old failed sealer/stain must be removed to insure the new sealer will perform correctly. If a finish does not exist, a deep cleaning is done with our specially designed TimberClean Pro™ wood cleaner to remove mold, mildew and dirt that has collected on the surface. New wood also needs to be deep cleaned to remove any "Mill Graze" that was left behind when the wood was milled. The graying is also removed during this step to reveal the woods natural beauty. Step 3: The final and one of the most important steps in the restoration process is the neutralization of the cleaning agents that were applied during the restoration process with our specially designed TimberBright Pro™ wood brightener/neutralizer. A neutral wood pH is necessary for optimum new finish performance. This process will also brighten and bring out the natural beauty and color of the wood. Step 4: After the restoration, brightening and neutralizing steps of your project are completed, your wood needs to dry out. After allowing proper drying time (usually 2-3 days), we use an electronic moisture meter to double-check the areas of the wood that dry the slowest. The moisture content must be under twelve percent before sealer is applied. Step 5: The final step before the sealer is applied is detailing and necessary repairs. All agreed upon repairs are made at this time and nails and screws are returned to below the woods surface. It is then thoroughly inspected for "furring". If found the "furring" is removed with a detail sander. Finally, if necessary hand railings are sanded to ensure that they are splinter free. Step 6: The most time consuming step, but at the same time most rewarding, in the process is sealing your wood. Through our application techniques, we provide exactly what your wood needs. Every wood project differs in the amount of sealer needed for proper protection. This is determined by past maintenance, species and age of the wood. No less than two coats of a commercial-grade sealer/stain like Ready Seal® in your chosen color will be applied. Proper preparation and application is the key to longevity in a wood finish. That's it!

The funny thing is if he could have run for president again he probably would have won.

Ditto Tony's post. The side door is a must.

I just got the extended 4 disk set for my birthday. Can't wait to watch all of the extras that come with the set.

Very professional looking. Nice Job!

I get the cholesterol check once a year. My family has a history of high cholesterol.