WashRite

No - I run 200 ft of high pressure hose.

What size machine do you have - GPM and PSI? Just curious, is it hot or cold water? If you are just doing driveways, sidewalks, and patios you can probably get by with a cold water unit in most cases. Have you ever used a surface cleaner? If so, was it a floater or wheeled? One suggestion would be to rent one for your next job or see if your local supplier will let you demo one. Ensure it is "tipped" to your machine. If possible, demo one of each. Sent from my BlackBerry 9800 using Tapatalk

I just scheduled a 2000 sq ft house for gutter cleaning. Gutters are across the front, the garage side, and about half of the back of the house. Very easy to get to but somewhat clogged. May take and hour to 1.5 hours. I'm getting $100. I plan to use the ladder and bucket method. I washed the house previously and will be washing their neighbors this time. We have agreed to do it annually in the future with the house wash as part of their exterior maintenance plan. Sent from my BlackBerry 9800 using Tapatalk

One thing you could try is to charge him $115 for the roof if he will include other services. Mark-up "add on" services to make up the difference in price. Add an additonal 2-3 cents/sq ft to your normal price for a house wash. Do the same for driveway/sidewalk, deck/patio, fence, etc... Make it worth your time. Sent from my BlackBerry 9800 using Tapatalk

8 hours north just across the GA line I routinely get .17-.25 for asphalt shingle roofs. It just depends on the size, pitch, landscaping, etc... Can it be cleaned from the ground? ladder? or do you have to walk the roof? Do they have gutters? Sprinkler system? I think your home owner is either comparing apples to oranges or not telling you the truth. I would imagine you have a minimum of $50 in chemicals alone for a 3000 sq ft roof depending on how dirty it is. I agree with Doug you are definitely not too cheap!

I have never used these type of connects. I have always used quick connects and plugs for everything. With that said, I am thinking of using a combination of both depending on the situation. I will always use quick connects for my guns, hoses, lances and specialty tools, however, I have a few high pressure connections that require very little maintenance and this is where I am having the headaches. I only know of two ways to deal with these quick connects. One, be sure to disconnect ALL connections on a regualr bases. Maybe once or twice a week. This will keep them from feezing up over time - Or secondly, wait for something to go wrong and fight to get the plug disconnected from the quick connect. I have a couple of special connections that may benefit from using twist type connects. The first is where I have my two machines tied together in what I call the "Volume Manifold". The "Volume Manifold" has an output high pressure hose from pressure washer 1 connected to a chemical injector connected to a "T" connected to a ball valve conected to a "T" connected to a chemical injector connected to the output high pressure hose of pressure washer 2 all using QC's. Both "T's" have ball valves connected to the jumper hose to the hose reel. Sometimes I work by myself so I set the ball valves to the correct positions to run one gun using both machines. My machines are 5.1 GPM which double my volume to 10.2 GPM reducing my over cleaning time on bigger projects. The theory behind using QC's is when something fails like a chemical injector or ball valve I can simply disconnect and replace. Fortunately, these don't fail often but when they do the QC's and plugs are "frozen" together. They are very hard to separate. As I mentioned above, I could disconnect them on a regualr basis and probably not have a problem but that just aint gonna happen over time. Another area is where the high pressure jumper hose connects to the hose reel. My thought is to get rid of the QC's and just connect the entire "Volume Manifold" using twist type connects and threaded nipples. The twist type connects would only be used on the outside connections. This would allow for easy removal of the entire "Volume Manifold". Then I could unscrew an injector or ball valve and replace it and easily reconnect the entire apparatus to the machines in just a couple of minutes. I even thought about adding a little high heat, chemical resistant grease on the twist coupling threads to help when I have to unscrew them. Has anyone ever used these twist type connects in a similar process? What do you see as being a downfall to using twist connects in very specific circumstances like I have described?

I failed to mention that I use a "Chemical Manifold" that allows me to pull up to 4 different chemicals by turning on the specific ball valve for the desired chemical. I just added the 4th hook-up. It pulls a "line flushing" mixture to neutralize the cleaning chemicals at the end of each job. This may help keep the QC's functioning better over longer periods of time. Sent from my BlackBerry 9800 using Tapatalk

Has anyone ever used this product to flush their ag pumps (I use a 3.8 ag pump for roof cleaning) or chemical injectors? Becker Underwood Nutra-Sol Tank Cleaner Quart America's Farm & Home Store

I'm going to assume the cleaning is for mold and algae on asphalt shingles. 1. Research "apple sauce" and "roof cleaning" on this forum. Also, Google the Asphalt Roofers Manufacturers Association's Technical Bulletin on algae discoloration. 2. You could use an x-jet but I would look into a separate set-up to clean roofs. You can buy a shurflo agricultural pump and add about 200' of glass filled hose. Also, research the "phelp's wand" on this forum. You could probably buy the whole set-up for under $250. 3. Yes, the surrounding area is the biggest concern for roof cleaning. It's best to have a ground man watering plants before, during and after cleaning the roof. 4.As a general rule always do the dirtiest work first. Clean the roof first. 5. No, that does not sound right. Never use more than garden hose pressure to clean the roof. In fact, after you spray the chemical and let it dwell for 20 minutes rinse roof with garden hose. 6. Dwell time will vary and it depends on what time of day you plan to clean roof. I only clean roofs in the early morning before they get hot. Twenty minutes is plenty of time. You may have to re-chemical specific areas. 7. Done. Take the time to research your question to better prepare yourself for the job. NEVER use high pressure to clean asphalt shingles. The strength of your chemical will kill plants if you do not take appropriate precautions to protect them.

I know this sounds odd but I have a potential job where this application would be perfect. Has anyone ever thought about or have a need for this? Other than the spray tips, what would be other concerns?

My opinion would be to buy the 16" hover type surface cleaner. Properly tipped, it should hover and move effortlessly from side to side and front to back. The hover units are great for working around obstacles and steps and curbs. They are usually much lighter than the wheeled units. I have both types but usually only use the wheeled units for larger jobs such as concrete gas pump pads and other large flat concrete areas. I believe BE has a new 16" (maybe 18") surface cleaner that has detachable wheels. It looked like it was built well.

Yes, wash the house with your usual house wax mixture. In many cases you will not have to pre-treat residential concrete with any chemicals. Hot water will get the job done in most cases. Some driveways may require a pretreatment of a degreaser and/or sodium hypochlorite. Once you have cleaned and rinsed the driveway. Simply spray the driveway with Oxalic Acid. I usually spray it on with an X-Jet but have also used a shurflo set-up. My X-Jet mixture is 12 oz per gallon of warm water. My shurflo mixture is 32 oz per 5 gallons of warm water.

I actually bought one of the curved gutter cleaners as well and had the same thing happen to me. However, I didn't chalk it up as a waste of money. I added a 1/4" T and two over sized 15 degree screw in tips. My machines are 5.1 GPM at 3500 PSI. I added two 5.5 tips which cut my pressure in half. It works great. I actually built a shield for it as well but didn't like it so I took it off. I have done both ways, the bucket and scoop and the modified gutter attachment. I like the gutter attachment better now that I have used it for some time. It does make a bigger mess but it is fairly simple to clean up. With the water shooting out both sides there is no snap in the wand. I simply move the attachment up and down inside the gutter. It cleans very well. When I get to a downspout I just turn it to shoot down the spout. Also, when I get close to the wall of the house (end of gutter) I will clean the gutter as usual then rinse the house with the attachment. The 15 degree tip at low pressure works fine.

Does anyone use a small electric chemical pump, Shurflo or Delvan, to increase their chemical draw? If so, what percentage of draw increase are you getting? I am thinking of adding this option to my current system for specific situations. There are times when I need more than 10-20% draw and would like to have at least 25% but more would be better.

It looks like a version of the nozzle I am talking about. I am sure there are several different manufacturer's. Just be sure this nozzle also twists creating a spray fan from 0-65 degrees or something similar. Also, match it to your pump.

I usually only run two chemicals through my injectors. One is a house wash solution with about a 20-25% mix of sodium Hypochlorite and the other is a degreaser formulated primarily with caustic soda beads and a soap. Does anyone run a neutralizing solution through their chemical injectors at the end of the day? I generally run plain water through them but don't really know if it helps. I seem to get about the same usage as I did before I began running water through them.

I use a hi-lo fan nozzle for downstreaming. No need to change tips after soaping or rinsing. Simply pull the nozzle out and begin soaping up to 30-35 feet and when you are finished soaping pull the nozzle in and begin rinsing. Twist the nozzle to the fan width desired. I can't imagine using any other tip for house washing. Very simple and inexpensive.

My primary machine is a Hotsy 5000 psi @ 5 gal/min and I use 3/8" hose but I typically run at 4000 psi. Let me change the thread somewhat and ask this, Does anyone use a dual chemical injector?

I actually have a couple of the Super Suds Suckers and they are good but I don't get 25% draw with them. I typically run 150' of hose. Envirospec is about 30 minutes from my home so I visit them often. I guess no one uses a chemical injection pump to get more draw.

Back in March, a few of us chimed in on a thread titled, "nozzles for house wash" started by Duramax and the discussion soon turned into ball valves, triggerless guns, and methods to keep guns in the open position. My method used a velcro strap that works great but as I later found out there is no room for error. As I was doing some flat work, I inadvertently stumbled on the curb falling down. I let go of the wand and unfortunately it kept spraying until I was able to get up and shut down the machine. I was fortunate nothing was damaged or broken. At that point, I remembered that thread and the suggestion to use a tennis ball and if the wand was dropped for some reason the ball would pop out shutting the pressure down. I have now gone to the tennis ball method for my helpers instead of velcro. I decided to stay with a triggerless gun and ball valve that was also suggested in the same thread. Of course, this method has the same potential concerns as velcro but I'm hard headed sometimes. My helpers didn't like this method as much as the velcro because they had to keep up with the tennis ball when not in use. Our remedy was to find a way to attach the tennis ball to the gun that was easy to put in place and remove without having to keep up with the ball. I have attached a few pictures below showing our new method. Seems to work really well. Basically, I put two small slits in the tennis ball that resemble a "T". The slits were about 2/3 the size of the ball on the opposite end of the bungie. Then I just pushed the bungie ball into the tennis ball.

Just curious, why would want to change your current logo? How long have you had your current logo? Just remember, you may be getting tired of that same old logo but it is still the same one you loved when you first picked it out. Also, you may look at it every day and get tired of it but your customers don't see it or think about it until they need your services. They will not get tired of it and will continue to look for you and your logo in the future. I like your current logo.

I've used velcro strips since the 2nd day I started pressure washing. It only took one day to figure out my hands were "wimps". BTW, I do use an open gun now with a ball valve as my on/off instead of velcro or a tennis ball. I appreciate your input.

You could also try a form of proximity marketing. When you finish a house, why not place 10 or so door hangers, post cards, business cards or whatever on their neighbors doors? Maybe five on each side. I've picked up a few homes this way. Another way is to ask for referrals. Even offer "cash back" for new accounts they refer. Andy, how far south do you travel/work?

No it will not.

Big Mike, As I was working last night, I thought about your comments regarding the whip hose and ball valve. I evaluated your thoughts and even moved my ball valve to the other end of the whip hose next to the swivel. I found it to be a little awkward but probably could live with it if it were not for ball valve hitting my knees especially at 180 degrees. I switched it back. My reasoning is 90% of my work utilizes three different guns. The set-up pictured above, a gun quick connected for an 8’, 4’ and 1’ wand, and a surface cleaner. If I’m reading your post correctly, I would have three whip hoses with ball valves attached to each apparatus (not quick connected). I also assume you use swivels. To me, that sounds like a lot of trouble. Just storing the guns and surface cleaner with two foot hoses and ball valves dangling would be awkward. Not to mention that when a part did wear out I would have to shut down and use tools to replace it. I usually only keep one spare part for each set-up besides the one I’m using. Basically, I use a whip hose, swivel, and ball valve on everything and when one piece breaks or wears out, I just replace that piece. I just disconnect, then reconnect and go. No tools required.