Don Phelps

Hooter's and all the influences associated was fun while it lasted but it's time for change.......Stay tuned! :lgkeyboar

Hi Jim, You're welcome to come down to Orlando for a day of training, if you're willing to trade labor for the experience.

Tony's way is probably the best for you in this situation. However, in the heat of summer in the south, your chem would probably dry before you could rinse if done that way.

I've personally never seen it damage vinyl siding. I suppose if it's cheap or old vinyl, it's possible that it might fade or streak. We always water the sides of the house and all plants/grass in the area before, during and after when using any type of cleaner on gutters.

A lot of us are men, but we all fail sooner or later. Thanks for the rhetoric though............ :lgbugeyes

Mark, Use the 'Search' function and you'll cut your learning curve way down.

Michael, Would it be possible to post some pics of the roof and surrounding areas of the property? As previously stated, I have quite a bit of experience with asphalt and tile roof cleaning. Unfortunately, there aren't many cedar shake roofs in Central FL. The approach to cleaning the roof wouldn't be any different than other steep-pitched roofs. As long as there is room to get a lift into the areas needed to reach all parts of the roof, that part will be relatively easy. However, the composition of the roof and what chems to clean it with is just as much a question for the wood "professionals" as anyone else. There is the constant debate about using sodium hypochlorite (bleach) on wood, and not being one that does wood restoration, my best guess would be to possibly strip, clean and seal the roof using sodium hydroxide, oxalic acid and either a transparent or tinted sealer. Or possibly a percarb cleaning would do the trick. Let's see if any of our wood restoration professionals will chime in here...:groovy: As far as the equipment mentioned, those won't be the right tools for the job. This sounds like a project best suited for someone with the knowledge, experience and equipment to do it right and in a timely manner. It probably won't be cheap, but there has to be someone in the area that deals in cleaning cedar shake roofs. Exhaust your resources to find the right contractor for the job.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/NTESearch?storeId=6970&N=0&Ntk=All&Ntt=shurflo&Nty=1&D=shurflo&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Dx=mode+matchallpartial

We use 200 ft on roofs all the time. There is a small difference but nothing that really slows us down.

Steve R. usually carries some of the larger ones. I like the #8010 for rinsing concrete.....Kinda makes a nice water broom.

Do you have any 'after' pics of the roof?

I'm sure that you're already aware of this, but don't forget to open the regulator all the way before firing up the machine the first time after reducing it.

Does yours have a pressure regulator? Most of the roller pump setups that are sold as a complete unit (engine included) will have one. I would think you could adjust it to open further if so, to reduce the added pressure created by the reduction in hose volume. If yours doesn't they're available at Tractor Supply or most other farm/ag stores.

A silicone spray is much less harsh on the rubber o-rings than WD-40.

It's driven off the drive shaft of a small gas-powered engine if it's a traditional roller pump. I'm not sure why it's running backwards unless it's a factory flaw or plumbed incorrectly.

Is the pump on your pw a direct drive, gear drive or is it belt driven? You might not need an in-line pump to assist flow to the machine depending on how your rig is set up. I think most use in-line filters, we do. We need more details.

The best way to control your pressure is to buy some more tips for the wand. Cranking the unloader back and forth wears out the spring and it also reduces your gpms every time you reduce the pressure.

If you got it from Lowe's or HD, they usually put their couplers, rather than the plug, on the pump. If this is the case, as previously stated, the o-ring is probably worn or gone. Therefore it won't matter how many different hoses you try, it'll still leak because the fittings are reversed.

I believe JohnW is from Fayetteville if you'd like to pm or email him. He visits this board on occasion. http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/member.php?u=418

Isn't that interesting...... Anyway, hopefully Mel (PWKid) will speak up here. He mentioned to me on the phone yesterday that he had tried this before with a considerable length of hose and it worked out well for him.

Hunter, The offer is still open if you want to tag along sometime. Another way to handle it is to stand on the grass side and use a narrow tip (green or yellow) and edge the concrete with the blowback being directed toward the concrete and not having all the pressure and force blowing into the grass, mud, mulch, etc. You will get somewhat dirty/muddy no matter what you do, as I'm sure you already know. Call me sometime if you want to hook up. I have a restaurant drive-thru to do Sunday if you care to be there.

http://www.dcs1.com/dcs1boards/messages/detail.cfm?ID=49286&Board_ID=10

There is no question in your statements. Are you wanting ideas on how to use the 12 volt pump and xjet simultaneously? Or are you looking for suggestions on what hose reel to buy? What am I missing?

That reminds of this pic I snagged of a lizard that was hanging on the side of my house the other day. It looks like any other lizard that you would see all over FL except this one has an "airplane" tail.....Go figure!

I had a g/f that lived in Marietta in the late 80's/early 90's, so I know all about the "Big Chicken."