Mike Cappa

be carful with that phone book mentality. Alot of contractors don't advertise in the phone book, for very good reasons.

never had that problem, actually the opposite problem. got a complaint that the house was too clean and the homeowner didn't want the house painted anymore.

Mat, you are correct, I uploaded the wrong picture. but... the outcome is still the same. I am not pushing the soap, try it, don't try it, makes no difference to me. I do know it works, I like it, I will keep using it. It has cut my time in half. Alan told you where to get it, all you do is pay shipping and you get a free sample, what have you got to lose. I wouldn't downstream it straight though, it will still be too strong.

the only way to correctly remove mold or mildew from the surface of wood is by sanding it.

you are incorrect, it doesn't matter how long you leave it on or if it is wet first. You WILL NOT be able to completely rinse the bleach off or out of the wood and WILL break down the lignin. I have done a lot of research on this and will not ever, ever use bleach on wood.

yep, what alan said, and, I have one for sale.

Yes, I downstream it with an Adams downstream injector. Tony, also, sorry for the delay, $ on the way.

out of curiosity James, you say you do alot of decks, and I am not challenging that. Could you please tell me what bleach does to wood.

do a search here and on other boards, www.pressurewashinginstitute.com you will get alot of the info you need. HD-80 is far superior than anything you will ever find. over the counter will not compare at all, and contractor only supplies can't hold a candle to HD-80.

if it works great, I was just offering one opinion, doesn't mean it is always true.

I am no longer concerned how the streaks got there, I am only concerned with cleaning them. Everyone uses what they like, applies it how they like. I use the same mixture to wash a house as I do to clean the gutters. I brush nothing. I x jet nothing. I apply soap to one side of the house, then the gutter, rinse the gutter as soon as soap is applied, then rinse the side of the house. I mentioned this somewhere before and no one beleived me. So, I will post a pic of a gutter done recently to show you guys that you are all wasting tons of time. But, you do it how you want. Do you beleive me now...

that's not a house, that's a hotel. lol

I don't know about asking sikkens, they say you are supposed to wash a deck with a bleach solution. We all know what bleach does to wood.

am I allowed to say what I use? I don't want to push a product that beth doesn't sell. I will wait to hear from Beth.

Two things, if you x-jet hd 80, it may work, may not, but you will have less control. In some cases you don't need the control, but in some you do. Morgan, put a ball valve on the end of your hp hose. open the valve, start your rig, water gets hot, put the stream in the bucket. No need for the soap tip, or bucket lid. Much less dangerous.

it will fade the color of the floor. I doubt you can get too much for just doing spindles and hand rails. In my opinion, it is not worth the headache you will run into. Why didn't they get composite rails also?

I charge 400% higher to do anything that has to do with sikkens. Tell me, how do you apply this sealer to all six sides if the deck is not in the air? if the deck buts up against the house? Will you remove all the boards and coat them, then re install it? Maybe sikkens tells you to do this so when it does fail, they don't have to be responsible.

sure, with clutches, belts, and one hell of a mechanic, oh yeah, and alot of money. That would be a big waste of money, and as Alan said, when the engine goes, everything goes. Get everything seperate, will cost less and be less of a headache.

Rick, I hope you have reclaim.

setup went great. skid in back with reels closer to the back, 275 tank in there also in front of the skid. I am taking that out though and putting in a 135 gal tank. It will give me more room, if I need more water, I may get a small trailer for that, we'll see. All in all, it worked well. vented the flue through the roof. I like this set up alot. especially because of the crapy weather here.

The tanks I have now are 275 a peice. I am going to use one of them, but am selling a bunch of stuff I have on the trailer, including the trailer, so I would like to have a 200 gallon tank. I don't carry it full though. Learned that lesson a long time ago. I will fill up at a hydrant close to the job site if needed.

I pay 400 a year for a one mil, 2 mil ag policy. I will dig up their number and post it soon. Actually I won't post it here. If you want info on my insurance company, send me an email and I will send you the info. I have very good reasons for not posting the info. mcappa@adelphia.net

not having a tank. I pretty much meant that for commercial jobs.

Oh yes, couldn't survive without one, well I could, just would be slower.

after break in I bet they say not to use it because if you use it your engine will last longer and they won't get as much repeat business.