Tonyg

Cande, I've only used the Sequoia AC semi-solid. It was everything I could do to try and talk the HO out of it but it turned out better than I thought it would. You could still see the grain andit didn't look like paint like I thought it would. I was pleasantly surprised. e

I explain to my customers that that stain offers different levels of protection based on opacity. On a scale from 1-10, with 1 being the worst, then a clear such as Thompsons is the worst and, although it would come out like a barn red, a solid would be the best. That said the logical choice is a semi-transparent that gives some UV protection but also allows the natural appearance of the grain and beauty of the wood to show through.

Terry, How does the Flood compare with the SW Deckscapes for solid acrylics?

Unfortunately I have one more small deck then its back to painting for a month or so until I can get caught up. It won't be anything good enough for here but I will post it in another thread when I do it. It will be a 50/50 mix of Sequoia/Natural.

It was too wide to get a decent upclose picture so this is what I send the customer. Beethoven Deck Restoration 2.pdf Beethoven Deck Restoration 3.pdf Beethoven Deck Restoration 4.pdf

I'm in. AC Redwood Tone

Kinda sounds like it is the best of both worlds? A transparent with the protection of a semi-trans? How is it in relation to the semi-trans and semi-solid?

With my conversation with Jake - it is not and does not have the same amount of pigments as a semi-solid. The pigments may be as expensive as a semi-solid and deserve the same price but it is not comparable as far as opacity. Jake may want to clear up the confusion. I made the mistake of telling the HO I did today that it had the same protection as a semi-solid. Good thing it stays in the shade most of the day.

I have a multi-level large deck on the beach that I need a little help working up an estimate for. There is a deck on each floor of the three story with stairs, decorative railings, and a section of beach access. I actually looked at this the summer before last but never got the opportunity to work up the numbers or a face to face with the home owner. I did get a request from the HO now and met with them today. The deck was supposedly "sealed a few years ago" and they used Thompson's. Because of this comment I really don't get the feeling I will be on the same page as to what he may have in mind for cost but the numbers so far are hitting 11k. I felt almost that if he used and was satisfied with the hack who did it before then he probably will not want too spend more. Most of the wealthier customers I have had this year are crying the blues about how little money they have to spend because of the markets. I think I have worked up a fair and competitive price for restoration but too much more add ons would be a deal killer for sure if I can sell him on the price tag now. I have the total "stainable sf" but the floor is 2780sf. 213sf of which is a small Ipe deck at the front entrance door. This There is a sealer of some kind on the deck, in the shade mostly, and will need to be stripped. Mostly PTP, sand dunes, close neighbors, wind off the bay, etc. I have been loving the Deckster but would probably go with the Powersolve and DS. Stain would be AC. Questions I would appreciate a little input on: 1. The undersides are not getting restored but they will obviously be cleaned and discolored from doing the fascia, headers, and support poles. Should I plan to clean/bleach the undersides anyway? He already said he doesn't want to pay for them to be restored. I am just afraid of the overspray leaving bleached marks. 2. The decorative railing - I haven't done any to this extent. How much more difficult are these going to be and should I adjust my normal railing price? 3. The supports for the beach access - I did add these in. He said the neighbor had their deck done "recently" and to do whatever they had done which looked like they were stained. I wasn't impressed with the neighbors deck or the quality of work on it. Another reason why I think he will have sticker shock. What is the norm for supports for a dock or walkway of this sort? 4. I priced the Ipe with the same price I used for the PTP. Never done Ipe and rarely if ever see it around here? I even have played with the idea of adding a little more to the overall ticket and offer to restore the Ipe for free as a sample. I would love to do a hardwood and I know that the contrast could be what makes the sale. The risk is he takes the free Ipe and rejects the bid. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. I wanted to finish a few decks in the next week or so, IF it stays dry enough, and will probably not give him a proposal until next weekend or the following week.

I've been lucky enough to get a few jobs on the oceanfront this year. Just finished up a solid deck and a couple of painting customers on the beach last week. It's nice to decompress during a lunch break on the beach. When I was in my 20's I used to hit the water or volleyball games at the end of the day. It's not unusual to see other contractors break out the wet suits and boards at the end of the day.

Thanks for all of the feedback. I think I will still plan on the powersolve for speed and the deckster and NaOH close to the house, poles, headers, etc. Rick, I like the idea of doing a rail on the side of the Ipe. Living in the land of PTP doing an Ipe deck is a privilege but I don't want to give it away. There is a small PT decking and wall on the back side for the trash cans and ac units so I will offer to do those for free as a sample. Also, I will have to add costs for the metal "copper" rails. I remember Gary at Gar&T had mentioned a product for restoring copper that I will look into Copper Awning Cleaner I will play with the numbers after some thought this week but I will adjust the rails a bit higher and lower the horizontals a bit and see what it comes out to be. I am doing a small deck for someone he knows and I would rather think it through since I don't have to rush into producing an estimate overnight. Ken, total stainable sf came out to around 5900 if I remember. That includes 340lf of railing, maybe 50lf of partial railing on a knee wall, poles, headers, supports, steps, and solid walls. I did not include the slat wall between the property lines - there is a small pergola, paver steps and walkway framed by 6x6's, and more solid walls lining the driveway and front walkway - all of which could be added if I am able to get and complete the job. When I first looked at it a couple of years ago I remember coming up with a rough number of 10k-12k and was scared by the price so dropped it to around 8k. I was just starting to do wood seriously and and the rough estimate that I worked up would be more of a guess. I would not have been able to handle it then so it was just as well I didn't get the opportunity. I would like to get it, and don't want to completely sink my battleship in one turn, but have got better and more realistic about what I am willing to give up to get a project. I may be over-thinking it and it may be easier than initial view so I will look at applying lower sf rates. Beth, Its just me and I may enlist a helper or painter friend to help. As it stands I was anticipating 8-10 days by myself and would probably end up doing more than I agreed to. Right now I look at each job as a stepping stone to a bigger and better project/client and have a tendency to put extra time in to make everything as perfect as I can get it. I usually always try to find something more to do so I figured two weeks of the schedule - If won I would try to schedule for fall. Rod, This is not a rental. This is Chics Beach (Chesapeake Beach) more of a locals beach on the bay. It would be a nice place to be but no waves or undertow. Beth, If I get it I will hire you for "consulting" and you can supervise from the Dune. Sort of a Labor for Learning in reverse :)

Also the Ipe had metal poles that I thought might be brass? Should I restore these? If I don't will the chems discolor or harm them more? Also added a pic of a shady spot of the sealer on the PT.

I have looked into the eco paint products fairly extensively and found these on some of the web sites I had bookmarked: - Wood Stains- Interior/exterior by Bioshield Natural Paints AFM Safecoat Earth Safe Finishes Generation Green Stain Sealer ECO-HOUSE INC - Oil Finishes I have not had the opportunity to try it the Bioshield or AFM paints but they are suppossed to have pretty good paint. I would probably check into those first. I doubt any of these would offer serious protection against foot traffic though but it would serve its purpose for all natural. PS: The AC is 68% recycled product and I am sure Jake could fill you in on any of the ingredients that your customer may find offensive.

Playing with colors trying to find some better alternatives. I thought this was going to come out much much lighter from the samples that I made but the color matched the paint job. I'm not a fan of the RB, and this is a bit too dark for a fence, but I think this would be a nice color for a deck. 50/50 RB/CS

How does Eacochem's Cleansol compare with Restora?

I buy your Sequoia you've had for a year (and an orange bucket) and I can't use the only deck I've done this year? I have 3 boring decks to do (one with Sikkens solid) and miss out on the two-tone deck I did a few weeks ago because I posted it here? Can I enter it at PTState?

Got one, just need to make a few modifications. Next. The hose clamps can't be tight enough. Is there another connector that will work better than a hose clamp on the clear braided hose? The stain hose has been fine but the chem hose has been leaking acid and caustic when the pressure is up.

just curious - the battery leads make it so the battery cover doesn't close when they are hooked up. I was going to make modifications as I don't like spilling chems/stain on the battery or in the case.

Bought one this year and really like it. I told my wife it was my new glorified hand cart. I know DSing and an airless can be quick but I really wanted more control of both the chems and stain. Probably could of made one much cheaper but I like the idea of having turn-key equip. to work with.

The last one I tried to strip down from a blue/green solid to a WT semi-trans it turned into a huge disappointment. I had the HO, and myself, excited about how it was going to look but ended up with a tremendous amount of work only to have to go with a green semi-solid. After two very strong strips there was a blue tint left between the boards and on spots here and there that just would not come out. Blue tint under WT WHG would have been terrible so I ended up having to sand it back out from such heavy strippers just to cover it back up with a green.

Honestly, with painting I just don't have that much time do do as many as I want to or to sell decks exclesively. I enjoy doing the wood so maybe sometime in the future . I enjoy craftsmanship and restoring a deck completely so when I get somebody who only wants something half way I figure they would probably be better off with someone else.

I will not do just a cleaning without staining unless it is for a home going on the market or property mgt. For example for clean & stain - my prices work out to be about be about 50% cleaning/restoring and 50% for staining. For Strip and stain - I add 50% to the clean & stain price.

Try and mix the semi-solid with the natural at 50/50. You will get the same color with a bit more transparancy and it still has twice the pigment as a semi-trans. I have a fence and hopefully a deck to do in early May with Rustic Brown (2) natural (1) and the Woodland Brown (1) which gives a very nice reddish/brown heavy semi-trans. I also plan on doing my own fence and shed in it as well .

Let me guess - FOAM I was cleaning a fence today and had everything set up on a piece of plywood in the middle of the yard. I ran out of the EFC-38 and decided to finish the last bit with a weak batch of HD-80 & SH. I figured there was only about an inch or so of the percarb in the bucket and just poured in the new batch. I was able to contain most of the foam spill but it was like I poured dawn into the dish washer.

Just a moment of stupidity - laziness in not running water through before using a different chem - one of those things at the end of the day. Ken, that was close. Next I think I will save time and mix my caustic and acid together the night before and just shoot one application. :eek: