Tonyg

Thanks for the help John but I didn't see anything up close. Would you say the cedar in my pic is about what I should have expected?

Pat, I also made a sample piece with the Deckscapes as well and it makes it easy to get a idea of what the two-tone will look like with the different colors.

Beth, that MC actually looks pretty good. I wasn't a fan of the samples I made and couldn't find any other combination that the MC worked well with but I might have to take another look at it. I see lots of grain there without the barn red feel. Looks good! Pat, That deck was one I did a few months back. I like the fact that the AC semi-solids still show a lot of grain but I offer a Sequoia/Natural blend instead of the semi-solid for Sequoia if they want the red. I prefer not using a semi-solid if I don't have to. I use the SW Deckscapes for solid stain.

Thanks John! Do you have any up-close pics of the shake in that picture? Are the dark areas in my sample pic the normal tannins or should I expect that to look different? It was hard to see the shake on your job from the distance the pics were taken.

Sequoia

Here are the before pics This is for a 1933 beach house at the oceanfront. Not sure how old the siding is. I have worked for the neighbors on each side of them and have been trying to sell them on restoring the siding this winter or next spring.

Looking for lesson #132 Finished a deck today about 5 yrs old that had behr stain on it - alkyd I believe. It was going from a badly applied "reddish" color to the AC SC. I'm just not happy with the cracks, and its not the first time but going to the lighter tone of the SC, it was more noticeable to me. Is there a trick to address the runs in the crack? This pic is after stripping and sanding. Oh, and after the David Carradine stunt I prefer not to be called Grasshopper.

Lyle, You're either border line genius or neurotic one the two. I LOVE IT! I will be thinking of ways to create something similar in the future. As Rod said, I think application of several suggestions would help me. Relaying the correct expectations to HO of what to expect and give options, maybe a bit stronger/longer dwell stripping, more direct water stream, taking care to work on the angles, and then the new WSS Crack Sander! I don't think I will be selling restorations that include sanding cracks but right now I am going for perfection until I get enough under my belt. I am also really trying to do more than expected as well and I think this would put that over the top. Thanks everyone for great advice

I don't know if I agree Dan. I wasn't happy with the cracks but the surface was stripped, neutralized, floor sander, and hand sanded.

It's already been stained and although the HO is out of town I am sure he will be happy with it. He was also pretty set on using the SC since I did the neighbors "New" deck in it last summer. I guess I'm looking at next time. The runs were not as noticeable before stripping but after I was able to get "normal" stain in the cracks off I tried to get the slopped stain like here. Just wasn't sure if it would be more damage to use a stronger stripperto get the cracks at the expense of furring or if there was a special Crack Sander that was reserved for the WSS (Woody Secret Society).

I stripped my fence, shed, and neighbors fence last Saturday. My fence and shed had the black version of WT WHG. My fence came out fine and the shed, with Cyprus, originally looked pretty good last week when it dried. Ive noticed the last day or two the shed is getting some blackening on the cyprus horizontals. I still have to do some defurring but I was hoping to stain it tomorrow if I get home in time. The second item is the neighbors fence. I have attached the before/after. Although there were still some stains after cleaning it looked much better than it does now. The blackening is significant and although I just did it as a favor I do not want it to look bad when I stain it. I would have to look at it every day when I came home. Can I / Should I hit them with Ox again? Is a week to long to wait before staining cyprus or is this something else. The neighbors fence is just ultra cheap PT. PS: I did use a NaOH and strong SH solution to clean and strip and then neutralized with Ox at about 7oz per gallon.

I use this for a belt sander. Very heavy duty. Heavy enough to give pressure and easily able to run it with one hand. Porter Cable 371 Compact Belt Sander 2-1/2 x 14in. - 371 I use it it for the butt end of boards, taking the corner off the edge of the deck so it is a consistent line, and taking out bad areas where you need to eat up some wood.

Last summer/fall I did a deck that was only 2 months old. I wasnt sure if i should try to sell them on it but I think it was Jon Fife that said he did a bit of them so i made the sale. Turned out great. I am doing the neighbors 3yr deck this week and the new deck I did last September looks absolutely great (AC Super Cedar). I have been asked a couple of times in the past week about how soon PT can be stained. From what advise has been given and the one new deck that I did, I believe the worst thing to do is to let it dry out. Early staining seems to hydrate it so much that I belive the wood is actually preserved much longer. I realize that the first application may not last as long but I think it gives the wood a tremendous head start. So, what I am looking for is some documention or manufacturer (any) literature or recommendations that I can use in sales. Does anyone have, or is there any "official" written statements pertaining to the staining/sealing of new Wood? Perception is reality so if they believe it is best to wait then there is no sale. With my experiences with 1-2yr old PT I really would like to make the sale early rather the waiting. Also, I think this broadens the market considerably. I would just like to offer some type of independent reccomendation.

What is the biggest challenge to your business right now? Building a reputation to get the name out. What can you do or did you do to overcome that challenge? I have tried to ramp up the level of quality. My business and life is based on my faith and have always used a verse in the bible to maintain the level of quality that I offer. The text is in the New Testament book of Colossians (3:23) "Whatever you do, work at it with all your heart, as working for the Lord, not for men" and this year I have really tried to put legs on that. My goal now for every job and customer is to "Give more than expected and Do more than I charge for". I looked at a Job today that I did last spring and can see a significant difference my quality now over last year. Was your effort successful and why or why not? This has helped my referrals and word and I have stayed 4-6 weeks booked. So continually looking for ways to do a better job more so than ever before is key. Where is your business right now compared to where you thought it might be at the beginning of the year? On target Where do you see your business in the next 12 months based upon your specific area? Possibility of expanding or spinning off a wood restoration service for next year or in 12-24 months. Hiring and training permanent staff.

I don't know Wait, I do have 2 1/2 dogs and those things out there do look a little like tree logs. How'd you know?

I wanna play :) Just getting started and you only seem to attract the ugly ones. Kinda reminds me of my younger years :lgbugeyes Deck 6.pdf

Alright thats enough! :arg: All I get to look at is ratty old pressure treated pine that could never ever look like that. That would be great to work with! Much more and I will be looking for adaption from one of you guys. Well,...:hmmm: Jersey or California ??? Sorry Rick. :cool:

Ok, I know there isnt much I can do about knots but - is there anything I can do about knots? Ive had a couple of decks Ive gone back to and the knots seem to be a problem. Horizontals are prepped right and usually always have 2 coats. Is there any trick that can be done before, during, or after a deck is completed? This deck did not have problem knots throughout but here and there and really on these six boards.

Ken, ya know, come to think of it I think that is exactly what I have been trying to do. I have been trying to come up with that "perfect" reddish brown. It is almost like the holy grail - I keep trying color combinations but when I put them on different boards I like them one day and the next when it is cloudy I don't. I'll keep playing around with them but I will probably just rely on the Cedar Semi as the primary.

Before staining there was no indication there would be this appearance. If I used something like a lacquer thinner to wipe down knots before staining would that help? Lacquer thinner would not leave a residue like mineral spirits. Or maybe use the mineral spirits? Would it help if I go back and wipe them with a solvent and rub some stain on them?

I used the same batch of the RT/CS mix on my own fence. My fence was a much rougher cut then the one I did last weekend and absorbed more stain. I understand how stains/coatings react and look on different substrates but there is a learning curve with my expectations of how the exterior wood restorations are going to come out. Here are pics of the same stain on my own fence and I have not decided if I like it or not. The customers fence I thought looked really nice but it was a much smoother board. My fence came out very rich looking but some areas are quite orange. (Jake, this is what I was talking about.) What do you think of this color mix? I'm not sure if I want to include it as one of my standard colors yet. I guess I will need to stare at it a while longer. The first pic is the fence I did last week and the others are mine.

Ya know, I kept looking at it and thats exactly what was missing - knots. Wood is such a beautiful thing but wood without knots would be really nice. I think the Teamsters have it so nothing other that PTP will be shipped here. That's some pretty work!

The SR/CS blend look nice and gives a darker color with more of a Semi-trans body. I'm not a big fan of the RB but the RB/CS blend looks better and adding the Natural gives more of a milder brown.

Had the opportunity to take some pics of the samples I carry. Instead of 3 of each it is actually sets of 2 for 8 total. Also added a deck board picture of the RT/CS mix. 1. Sequoia/Natural 1:1 2. Siera Redwood/Cedar Semi 2:1 3. Redwood Tone 4. Redwood Tone/Cedar Semi 3:1 5. Cedar Semi 6. Super Cedar 7. Rustic Brown/Cedar Semi 1:1 8. Rustic Brown/Cedar Semi/Natural 1:1:2 (that may supposed to be 1:1:4)

Great statement!