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Tonyg

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Posts posted by Tonyg

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Hi guys,

    Have a friend that does restoration carpentry and is working on a historic home in Virginia. They are looking for someone to restore the roof on this 'home' built in 1670. The new roof was hand cut and laid about 10 years ago.

    This is about 50mi North if Richmond VA or about 75mi South of DC just off I95.

    I told him I would pass the word to see if I could find someone professional and experiences with the cedar shake.

    Tony

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  5. Posted · Report reply

    I would recommend NOT applying two coats. The deck is heavily shaded and you shouldn't need the extra coating on top.

    In my personal opinion, I believe that the problem with the heavy mold/mildew growth is coming from over-application. I now try to get as much to soak in as quick as possible BUT I do not go back and apply a second full coat. To me the time it takes to coat the floor is too much time, and then going back and spray a light coat on again causes too much product (linseed oil) to stay on top. I now will apply, brush in, apply next section and spray light coat on top of the previous, and then brush in the next. Essentially a 3' swath at a time.

    I believe the 'problems' and complaints about the excessive black mold can be avoided/minimized by not trying to load up the wood or overapplying.

  6. Posted · Edited by Tonyg · Report reply

    here's my cedar deck with the AC mahogany...a little too red for my taste, but it has since mellowed a bit.

    i plan to hit it with a maintenance coat of the semi trans rustic brown or cedar to " brown it out " a bit.

    Keep in mind the color will tone down and mellow out significantly over time to something more preferred. Not sure how it would look to apply one color over another but you would probably like the Mahogany / Rustic Brown mix. I think you may need to strip unless you let it weather for a couple of years.

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  7. Posted · Report reply

    Is there a setting change that I can make on my end that will show the picture attachments like they used to do rather than having to click on individual links? It would be so much better to scan through the posts without having to open up a new window every time I want to see a pic.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Craig: what about brick that is surfaced colored. Talking about the bricks that are treated or colored after they're fired or baked. Not exactly sure of the process but acids WILL remove that coating. I had to pay $500 for a company that specializes in matching existing brick to come fix our (technicin's boo boo, I would have tested first) boo boo.

    Any experience with this?

    Good question - This customer had a lime faced brick, meaning pressure or heavy chems may/will remove the surface. These pics were 5 years ago and I am working on the neighbors now and noticed it looks much worse. They had since replaced the steel chimney cap and I would like to go back to pick them up again. I was going to use the Saferestore / OneRestore but we decided then it was not worth taking the chance.

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  9. Posted · Report reply

    Charlie, I have to look at an Ipe deck on Saturday. Probably only the second one I've seen in this area. 10-15 yr deck that has had Penofin applied at least 3 times with the last about 3 yrs ago. I've recommended the AC Mahogany ( without looking at it) and was hoping to give her some actual pics of the Penofin/AC Mahogany for comparison. Do you have before and after pics for this deck and would you be able to email them to me?

  12. Posted · Report reply

    ok, I guess I will play the voice of opposition - to some extent. I had a customer that wanted a price for their small 12x12 deck. It was in horrible condition and had to be covered up by carpet to keep the splintering and shards in tact as they had 4 young boys under 7yrs old. My price with strip & sand was something like $1100 and I told him it would probably be a better idea to just replace the wood. They ended up applying the deck restore stuff from HD or Lowes.

    After looking at what they did, and knowing how bad the wood was, it was actually a pretty good solution. It had a tight bond, very thick non-skid texture, and filled the cracks and covered the shards and splinters. I was quite impressed with what they did. The bad part - they said it was very labor intensive as it has to be brushed on to fill and cover the damaged wood, required 2 coats, gets extremely hot (at least as hot as composite), and if I'm not mistaken it cost $200-$300 as this stuff only gets like 25sf per gallon. Might be a DIY solution but couldn't imagine it being even remotely a cost effective contractor solution.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    At what point do you guys decide to strip an old coat instead of a simple wash-down and recoat? I’m having trouble with this question and could really use some guidance. I’m not referring to solid stains, just penetrating stains. I specifically use AC

    If the first coat looks faded and worn, will a second coat over-top look inconsistent and shabby, will it fail?

    Thanks!

    24-36+ months I usually use a very light stripper and as long as it is staying the same color I don't worry if I've missed anything. Comes off easily when washing either way so I figure I replacing the surface protection

    The darker the color the more problematic on the floor and top hand rail. This issue with some products is if you have done a maintenance many times just the color is coming off and oil is still in the wood. This means not much product goes in and the spread rate goes to 400 square per gallon.

    After two years I take the color off .

    James, I'm usually doing a recoat/maintenance coat at the 18-24 month mark - is this considered a 'maintenance coat'? I usually wash with a 2% bleach & soap which removes probably 80%-90% of the color since the Armstrong Clark comes off very easily. I could tell there is oil in the wood still but I wonder about whether I'm supposed to be taking so much off.

  17. Posted · Edited by Tonyg · Report reply

    I think your only option is to strip and restain. The wood is already sealed so the best you could do would be to fog something on which would be uneven and I would imagine look terrible.

    I would just let them know that all stains are going to be brighter when on new wood and that as the wood ages the Cedar Semi will look more like natural wood. Here is a PT deck, not sure how the color would compare with WRC, but this was new and at 24 months.

    Edit: Actually I believe this is the Amber but I think it would be similar in wearing.

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  18. Posted · Report reply

    Semi Solid Mountain Cedar / Oxford Brown 3:1 mix.

    I know the deck soaked up stain but I got much worse coverage than I expected. Keeping a five of the Natural around saved the day as I realized I was going to run a few gallons short. I usually average 150-175sf with the semi-trans and I estimated 115sf because of the age of the wood. I ended up getting 85sf with this one. I assume it's because of more solids.

    For those who have used a lot of the semi-solid, do you normally get less square footage compared to the semi-trans?

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  19. Posted · Report reply

    I checked with our state DEQ (Department of Environmental Quality), or state EPA, and they told me that there was nothing they could recommend as even using city water would be considered a contaminant because it has fluoride and other additives. Using well water would still mean washing of the debris into the water.

    Adrian may be of help. I've done one and opted to use plain water under pressure with a 40** fan but I generally will not provide estimates. It's a shame too because that would be some great looking projects

  22. Posted · Edited by Tonyg · Report reply

    Bought a new toy today - a double cut saw http://www.harborfreight.com/5-double-cut-saw-68316-8065.html

    Thought I would give it a try to replace boards easier and it worked great. It has two 5 inch blades that rotate in opposite directions so I was able to plunge cut without the blade kicking and its small enough to cut individual boards rather than pulling the whole thing up.

    Pretty cool, never seen one before

  23. Posted · Edited by Tonyg · Report reply

    This was my winter deck smile.gif kinda

    Was over there yesterday to take a few pictures and remembered this thread. Customer had put the home on the market and wanted to have it done before the first open house in mid Feb. It was cleaned in January and finished Feb 11/12 when we were fortunate to have temps hit the 60's for two days.

    BM Acrylic Solid for surface and Armstrong Clark semi-solid Mountain Cedar to trim out the sides

    They had originally asked me a year or two to do it but I refused since this is on a very busy inlet. I had originally planned to use a percarb and citric but it had what I call a heavy mildew 'scale' that it would have taken strippers. I guess it's not really wood restoration since I just used pressure on a wide fan so we could move this over to the diy section icon11.png. I had checked before with the state environmental office and was told that even using city water is illegal and considered a contaminant since it has fluoride and other treatments so I was overly cautious, and nervous..

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  25. Posted · Edited by Tonyg · Report reply

    Hello Tonyg,

    Your two tone work makes our stains sing. I am pleased you like our semi-solids, but don't give up on Cedar Semi and Amber for newer pt pine. Our toners are very popular on the west coast only. These are the folks that have overlooked the airlines and automobiles as a possible cause for ozone depletion and blamed the paint and stain industries. Go figure!?!

    Many thanks Tony,

    Jake

    Thanks Jake.

    The only thing we have here is PTP amd most are not in what I would consider good shape. I do like the semi-trans but probably will promote the semi-solids more with existing decks. I do a few newer decks, but not many, and would continue using the semi-trans on those. My preferred color for new PT is the Amber but also Cedar Semi and a couple of blends. I do not like the reds on new PT. For older decks I prefer the CS, a combination of Rustic Brown/Cedar Semi, or Mahogany/Rustic Brown. On very old wood I would typically use the Cedar Semi as I don't like how the semi-trans of the Rustic Brown or Mahogany dries out and looks inconsistent on the knots or heart grain.

    All the stains look great the first 6-12 months but I usually try to choose stain based on how they wear in over time. The Cedar Semi & Amber seem to wear in more naturally looking, where the reds and browns will show obvious color differences between areas that may wear faster or where the grey lines may stand out more. Depending on age and condition for instance that color difference is amplified.

    I would love to hear how the Mountain Cedar and Woodland Brown looks after the first year or so.

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