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Tonyg

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Posts posted by Tonyg

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Although I have done a handful of the AC Sequoia, this is the first time I really used the semi-solids and I really like it. The customer wanted something that would last longer so we went with the Mountain Cedar Semi-Solid. I did this one the first time a few years back and couldn't talk them out of the Redwood Toner - which barely made it the year in full sun. I think I'm definitely going to start pushing the semi-solids over the semi-transparents.

    For those of you that have used a lot of the semi-solids, what kind of life expectancy do you get compared to the semi-transparents?

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  5. Posted · Report reply

    The % isn't out of line in my opinion as a sum of the invoice. Our % fluctuates a decent amount with a low of 10% to a high of 25% depending on the project. Fencing for instance generally has a lower cost per sq ft for labor yet eats up a whole lot more material than a deck. As long as your profitable on the retail end of the stain (another good reason to bid it out separately) that's all that matters. From there just make sure your making what you need to make on the labor end. We have a decent mark up on our stain products to the customer as well but I know when we use AC there's not much there to be made due to the expense.

    Now that I've got a few years under me I want to hone in my numbers better. I know with the coverage varies widely, and I've only seen one ipe deck and one redwood fence, so yes PT is all that I see. I went back over the last 2 years and compared my averages.

    Again, I appreciate the direction

  7. Posted · Report reply

    I have been considering re-evaluating my pricing structure to better account for my stain costs. I use the AC stains and have maintained a stock of anywhere between 10 to 30 gallons at times. Some of that was intentional, stocking the typical Cedar semi or other more popular colors that I use, and and the rest being overage from jobs. For example a deck that may take 6 gallons and I need to order 10, or in the case of the current deck, I expect to need 14 to 15 gallons so I ordered 20.

    Looking back over the last two years my stain costs have been running at 17%, which seems very high in my opinion, and my sf rates are not low (just my profitability). I am considering lowering my square footage rate by say 15%, and then separating actual stain costs, and ordering (and charging) per job. Now, because of cost, this may make my job bids considerably higher.

    So, if you're doing hundreds of decks a year I'm sure maintaining stock is much more appropriate. The 'cost' of maintains stock is still an expense though. I may do a dozen or so decks a year and I am wondering if keeping stock and overage and using the averages, at a total sf rate, is really working out best for smaller volume.

    Does anyone price their stain separately and how does the numbers come out?

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Acupuncture really helped my arm cause it would get pretty weak on me bad and my right hand getting numb while spraying. My forearm used to kill me till I got poked with them needles really helped!

    15 yrs of spraying a trigger has taken it's toll on me!

    Good to hear you have wood lined up for the Spring. I'm starting to get 2-3 week back log picking up 1-2 jobs every day.

    never tried acupuncture but I'm not opposed to it. been planning on going to the Ortho for a shot. Had them in my knee, shoulder, and back and they usually work great so I thought I might try my elbow this time.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    You're looking for a palm nailer.

    Stanley Bostitch PN50 Mini Impact Nailer - Amazon.com

    Somebody (Milwaukee?) makes a cordless/lithium powered one now.

    You can even do it left handed.

    It works on screws too. I had an old head tell me once that threads were for takin' 'em out.

    Perfect! I've never seen them before. I may try the Milwaukee M12 Cordless Milwaukee M12 Cordless Palm Nailer Kit, 2458-21, red lithium battery - Amazon.com

  11. Posted · Edited by Tonyg · Report reply

    One thing that I always do for my decks is to countersink all nails/screws. I will literally crawl across the deck and countersink the nails with a pin and 5lb maul and if it's screws I use an impact driver. Doesn't take that long but I usually end up with one Popeye arm. It's looking like I've been able to group my decks this spring earlier in the season so March & April are looking busy for deck resto's.

    Problem is I have a bad tendon in my right elbow (I think it's Tennis/Golfer's elbow) and doubt I would make it through the first deck. Already concerned about pulling hoses and regular painting projects. I am looking at possibly looking for a power hammer, or even a 'hammer drill', that I can start using to quickly move through a deck. I have a paslode framing hammer that I was thinking of trying but I hate to ruin that if there is something else available.

    Any suggestions?

  13. Posted · Report reply

    In larger construction estimating knowing cost is essential. Once direct costs of any individual process is determined then that is used for the estimating. The software, spreadsheet, database, etc. can give a base rate and then its the experience that adjusts the rates to real world variables. I agree with Adam in that a system can be used to bring a more accurate base rate. But, it's the experience that will bring success and profit.

  14. Posted · Edited by Tonyg · Report reply

    Thanks for the great feedback. I really don't care what your pricing is although it is interesting. Starting business you need to know what the market is but staying in business means you need to know what your costs are. The reason I am honing my numbers is because the painting side has been timed and broken down in detail but I need much more accuracy in my labor costs for wood restoration. I kinda stoked that my times were in the ball park as working alone it is hard to have decent benchmarks.

    [quote name=

    Nail counter sinking with empty nail gun helps tremendously

    Rod!~[/quote]

    Rod that's ingenious! I use a 5lb maul and a drift pin/hole punch (3/8"x8"x3/4" GEARWRENCH BlackOxide Alloy Steel Starter Punch | Fastenal) and I've wondered how I was going to expect an employee to crawl across a large deck swinging the maul without the image of the chain gang (

    ). What kind of nail gun do you use? I have Paslodes but I believe they have a flat shank.
    Do it man! We need more full time woodies, forget the painting ;)

    Sorry Charlie, I make too much and stay too busy with the painting. I would love to be able to set up and train a couple of employees to run full time as a separate company exclusive to wood similar to what you, James, and Rick does. Shooting for a seasonal biz now with the painting biz continuing with the house washing and commercial pw. I would love to be doing more wood resto but I just don't get the time.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks Charlie,

    Is that 5 man hours or 10 man hours?

    I did have some extenuating circumstances with sustained wind at 15-20mph which is fine as I would rather use these times rather than basing my pricing on an ideal day.

    I'm using the 5.6gpm trailer mounted and plan on setting up an additional mounted pump for chems like you mentioned. right now the trailer is enclosed multipurpose as painting is still my primary revenue. I had hopes to spinning off seasonal deck resto biz next year and am looking to you guys to bring production numbers and processes to where it is profitable. Thus why I am crunching the numbers a little more now.

    This deck priced in at $801.31 for me.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks. After sanding - use brightener again to open up wood for accepting stain?? or just another light pressure wash to clean off dust etc. Many thanks on the responses.

    Depending on how much it is sanded. Ideally I would like to wet down the down after sanding but most of the time, unless circumstances make it necessary, the cost to sand and come back on a separate day after drying to stain would be prohibitive. If this is your deck, and you have the time, by all means wet it down after sanding but otherwise the majority of the time I don't believe it is that critical.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    My Deckster is down so I ended up using the Xjet for chem application and an airless for stain application. I check and counter sink every nail, use a square buff to sand floor and 5 1/4 in orbital for the rest. Used AC Cedar Semi for finish. I'm curious how I compare to what you would have on this deck.

    Here is what it took me:

    1 - Strip: 3hr 10min

    - 30min set up

    - 45min Caustics application & Dwell

    - 75min Strip/PW

    - 20min Acid

    - 20min Pack up

    2 Prep 2hr

    - 15min set nails, tighten boards, etc.

    - 1hr 45min sand

    3 Stain 2hrs 30min

    - 30min cover, tape and protect

    - 2hr 10min Stain

    Total Production Time 7hrs 40min

  18. Posted · Edited by Tonyg · Report reply

    I have been re-evaluating my fee schedule and wanted it to reflect my actual/average production times and costs. I want my pricing to better reflect actual labor and be able to distinguish material costs and depreciation better. I don’t mind sharing my pricing or what this deck priced out at but I am more interested in comparing how my labor compares to others.

    This deck is a very nondescript, very average deck with an unknown stain, unknown age, and unknown history. The house is 12 years old and I am not sure when the deck was added. I was there to do an interior painting estimate and gave them an estimate on exterior painting and deck restoration while there hoping for the upsell. Finished the interior and deck last week and have the exterior scheduled for October.

    I used this deck as a sample because it would be a good sample to test my production times. If you want to play along could you give how many direct MH (excluding transportation) you would have in these areas:

    1 - Strip

    2 – Prep

    3 - Stain

    Sample Deck

    12x16 Pressure Treated Pine

    Standard 4 steps 3’ wide

    36’ Total Rails

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    Sample After.pdf

    Sample After Prep.pdf

    Sample Before.pdf

    Sample before - After.pdf

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Here is a photo Scott Paul posted on his own deck of TWP 1515 at the 20 month mark, it may be 5 months less of weathering - but to my eyes looks worlds better.

    Well, my first question would have to be is that really what it looks like or is that just the way the picture makes it look? The picture looks great but you've probably taken more pictures than I so you can tell when they look different in person. I have never used the timber oils before but I was under the impression it was similar to a toner. Is the TWP 1515 the same as the timber oil and how does your 3yr timber oil deck look compared to this TWP?

    I offered the TWP to a large deck last year and would have been happy to use it but the customer chose an AC semi-solid. I was going to try the 500 (?) series but I believe that is the one that was changed/discontinued. I also think it is smart to use more than one stain line as I don't believe there is a one-fits-all product. Scott carries multiple products because there is a market to sell to for multiple products and as contractors I think having options in addition to our primary products is smart as well.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    I know from taking a lot of pictures - that deck probably looks better in a photo than it does in real life. Woodtux looked like that after 4 years. Heck, even timberoil looks better than that after 3 years. At least you don't have to strip it - that stain could probably be maintained

    You're kidding right? Even with your anti-Armstrong Clark crusade, and a penchant for the obscure, this is a lame brain statement. Because this deck looks good at this point in time it must be smoke and mirrors, camera angle, or the way light interacts with the digital processors. Then you say that timber oil looks better after 3yrs? Please show me pictures (assuming the pics are not distorted by the digital camera) So now you're promoting ESI instead of knocking their products so you can tear down another product?

    The point of my original post was to show what a 2nd year deck can look like compared to those great looking pics we all have of a newly restored deck. Your zeal against the AC stains has gone beyond product research and into this obsession that's seems very similar to past years where mud was slinging at ESI. Personally I like the way Rick handles the stain issue - I use Ready Seal because it has worked great for me - rather than trashing every other product on the market.

    I use Benjamin Moore paints, drive a Ford van, and use Armstrong Clark stains. These are preferences that work for me in my business. I will try not to say that Sherwin Williams, Chevy, and Ready Seal are trash and anyone who chooses them are using inferior products that will ruin your customers and your business. Enough already - try a more balanced approach.

  24. Posted · Edited by Tonyg · Report reply

    Just thought I would post these so others can have an idea what it can look like after a couple of years. I just happen to be across the street at another customer so I walked over to see how it was holding up. To me it is always helpful to know what to expect so I can manage expectations. This was a small deck and fence I did 25months ago which was stripped/sanded/stained with Armstrong Clark Cedar Semi.

    Willis Deck 4.pdf

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  25. Posted · Report reply

    I have been modifying my mix ratios and was listing different ratios for Ox, Citric, and a blend. It appears Oxalic may be about 30-35% stronger than Citric in measuring acid strengths. I usually use a blend but wanted separate ratios for individually as well. If the Ox is stronger, do you have different amounts for the Ox over the Citric? Say 3 oz of Ox compared to 4oz of Citric, etc.,?

    Like I said, I usually use a blend but there are times when a safer mix of Citric is a better sell than Ox. Also, I think Ox will get stains out better so there are times I will use straight Ox rather than the blend.

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