Everett Abrams

Absolutely take care in these areas. You certainly wouldn't want to make matters worse. You also want to be carful not to loosen or blow the pieces out. Be VERY careful around the gable vents as many of these become extremely damaged from the sun and are brittle. They will blow apart in a flash and are a pain in the ___ to replace.

Depositing a business check is a Federal Guideline. My own bank will allow me to deposit the check and if it is a check drawn from the same bank it will be available immediately. If it is not then I have to wait the appropriate time. If you are a good customer of the bank and have the funds, I have seen the exception when a local check is deposited as a "no-hold" check. Reed has the right idea by putting that on the bid sheet.

Steve, If you had a lawyer set you up you may or may not have all your paperwork. I have an excellent accountant and feel he knows more in some areas than the lawyer. Simply ask your lawyer if you have the NJSA 56:12. Registering your LLC with the State is different than the name. someone in a neighboring County can still go use your same name. If you look on the Boards or even in the different phone books you will see a lot of common names(Precision, Superior, A-1, etc.) that are used repeatedly, even in the same State. Honestly, I don't know how you opened a Bank Account without it, I have always been asked by the bank for that certificate. In regards to pricing, my company has tiered pricing that usually ranges from $1.25/sq.ft. to $3.50/sq.ft. depending on the situation. Strip and stain will start between $1.50-$1.75/sq.ft., understand though that I usually am the highest bid. I am never the lowest, unless I am the only one.

You get it from the clerk at the County Offices. This is so no one can take your name and you can't take someone else's either. The document is Certificate Of True Name-NJSA 56:12.

Steve, Any check made to a business name is to be deposited. They are also required to have additional information on the company like a SS# or Fed ID #, also a Certificate of True Name(in NJ). Many of the these guidlines are federal including depositing of a business check.

Cedar will turn darker in areas as it ages and wears. When we see cedar has gotten to this point we usually recommend an oil base semi finish. This will even out the appearance much better. The alternative is applying a sealer that will accentuate the imperfections and you may end up with a blotchy appearance.

Dale, You are correct. As matter of fact Cabot's primary recommendation for solids is to use the oil base primer with the acrylic finish coat.

Actually, these prices are extremely low. To understand better you should account for all your costs, it doesn't matter the price at this point. Figure your time on the phone, your stationary and office supplies on the estimate, the business cards, the gas to the estimate and then each time out, chems, stain/sealer, supplies, insurance, any marketing, etc. add all this up per job and at $.50/sq.ft. you will be out of business by winter. Your prices are at least half of what they should be but, you need to get a handle on your true costs. This is a very important piece that many overlook when getting started or identifying areas of opportunity.

seymore, Thank you for the reply!

seymore, Do you have a company or are you a distributor for Gray Away? I ask because I see you tout this stuff on the Deck Guide as well. Just curious if you are a contractor who really uses it and that is why you endorse it. It would certainly have more meaning if so, that is why I ask.

Jon, Have you ever seen some of the times on Ron's posts? You need to tell him am or pm as well!

Join PWNA BOD members at on June 16th at 8pm est. for a question and answer session about the PWNA or just to talk shop.

The best advice is to always carry an extra pump in your arsenal. Easy to change when you need to. If you do any volume you will change them.

For information on the ph scale use this site: http://www.epa.gov/airmarkets/acidrain/ph.html 7 is actually neutral.

Time of year would be one factor.

I didn't want to name names! Actually, it is very cool for Dale to share something like this so others can learn from it. There are many who probably think "that won't happen to me." Then...

You wouldn't have been the first pressure washer to burn a house down!

This is the link to the chat: http://www.pwnabbs.org/chat1/index.php3 I hope to see many of you there!

I will say the responses are excellent. The posts are well thought out and there are some great opinions in the responses. It is going very well!

I have found that when using the Cabot White and using the Problem Solver Primer that you always need a third coat. I figure that in my estimate, does really hold up well though. Great pics guys!

I will add that the Cabot Australian Timber Oil, Natural Tone is MUCH better than their 3000 Series Natural. More costly but well worth it in the end, as far as naturals go. I do use this on softwoods as well and have had great success with the outcome.

Generally, if you are using a stripper(and brightening) on the deck you would use it on the entire deck to keep the project as a whole consistent. With that being said there are exceptions like when you have an addition to a deck of new wood. I am sure Beth will comment about the chems you listed. In my opinion Cabot's is the best of the list you provided.

To me this is a real simple one. Couple: "Everett when and will you do the deck the way we asked?" Everett: "Never and have a good life." My reputation goes on every job, that means something to me. I will not do a job the wrong way no matter who asks. I just wouldn't do the job.

Jim, What is you address? I would like to send you a "Thank You Card" for keeping all that rain north of me. That was the way it was for us last year as well.

I do the same as Scott Stone. Grainger does have everything, I have a Grainger near me and you can also order on-line. They are also a good source for pumps, tools, moisture meters, etc.