Everett Abrams

I love Simple Green as a product to keep on the truck. Jim, You and I agree on this one, LOL! I also wanted to take the time to Congratulate you on the award you won from the PWNA Convention. I think what you are doing is a great thing and I enjoyed reading and knowing what you are doing. I wish you could have been there in person. Great job!

Power-washing deck not a good idea. My neighbor is ready to clean this wood deck. He's also about to make a common mistake. "Time for the power washer," he says. "That'll get it good and clean." Contrary to popular opinion, cleaning with a high-pressure power washer is probably one of the worst maintenance practices for a wood deck. "A lot of people use power washers or scrub with chlorine bleach," says Tony Bonura, eastern area manager for the Western Red Cedar Lumber Association. "They don't understand that high-pressure washing and chlorine bleach can destroy the fibers in the wood." There's a better way to keep wood decks clean and make them last longer, says Bonura, who, with more than 30 years in the wood business, should know a thing or two. He's ready to share some tips - such as how to clean and what kind of finishes to use - and credits the Forest Products Laboratory in Madison, Wis. for providing him a wealth of information over the years. "It's our government dollars at work," he says. The Forest Products Laboratory does not advise against using a power washer or chlorine bleach on a wood deck, and it notes that many contractors use the technique and some type of chlorine bleach. But in both cases, wood can be harmed rather easily. The Forest Products Laboratory, the public's leading wood research institute, was established in 1910 by the U.S. Department of Agriculture Forest Service. In cooperation with many universities, industries and federal and state agencies, the Forest Products Laboratory has more than 250 scientists and support staff for research in virtually every type of wood use, from pulp to paper to preservation. It is wood preservation that interests Bonura the most, and in decks, one of the first steps is regular cleaning to remove dirt and mildew. "First, the best way to clean most wood decks is with an oxygen bleach," Bonura says. Several oxygen bleach deck cleaners are available through home centers and hardware stores. Bonura says to check the labels and look for products that contain the highest percentage of sodium percarbonate (when this powder is mixed with water, it becomes oxygen bleach). Follow manufacturer's directions, Bonura says. For oxygen bleach products, that means mixing with water and applying with a soft, spongelike applicator or a pump sprayer. "Scrubbing with nylon brushes can also damage wood fibers," Bonura says. Usually, oxygen bleach should be on for 10 minutes, then rinsed thoroughly. Bonura says oxygen bleach cleaners are best for removing dirt and mold but will not remove stains made by iron and tannin (more common in cedar and redwood decks). For these stains, black in color, use a cleaner with oxalic acid. "Iron stains can look like mold," Bonura says. "So I tell people if you clean with oxygen bleach, and it doesn't come out, it's probably an iron or tannin stain." Bonura also advises great caution when using cleaners containing oxalic acid, which can be purchased at hardware stores and auto parts stores. Oxalic acid-based cleaners are highly toxic and should not be mixed with other ingredients. Again, Bonura says to follow the directions on the label. Once the deck is clean, use a preservative that protects the wood from dirt, water and sunlight. There are four common types of deck finishes - clear, tinted, semitransparent and opaque. Bonura recommends a penetrating oil-base stain that is formulated for deck use. The stain should also repel water and protect from harmful ultraviolet rays. "Make sure it is made for the decks," Bonura says. "This way it stands up to traffic." According to research by the Forest Products Laboratory, semitransparent stains penetrate wood without forming a continuous layer. That means there won't be a buildup to chip, peel or crack. In addition, the pigment in the stain protects the wood surface from sunlight. How often should you clean and finish your wood deck? That depends on several factors, Bonura says, including traffic, exposure to sunlight and moisture and the type of wood. This article was published in the Atlanta Journal of Constitution on 08/14/2003. The author was Gary Dymski / Newsday. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Usually, we have been having the Roundtable Meetings on the second Weekend in February. This year the PWNA convention is scheduled for that weekend. I am planning to attend a Roundtable in TN the next weekend on the 21st. I would like to schedule the Roundtable for Medford, NJ on Saturday Feb. 28th. This should be early enough in the year for scheduling issues and late enough to be able to do some outdoor demos and for folks to bring rigs and equipment. Please comment here, e-mail me ( eabrams@deckrestorationplus.com ), or call 1-866-440-3325. I would like to no if this is a good date and who will be attending. there should be some great announcements and suprises for this years event. I look forward to seeing everyone there. For anyone who is thinking of hosting or attending a Roundtable meeting. Please use this thread to keep all the info in one place and make it easier for those wanting info on each Roundtable. If anyone has questions on how to host or how to have a successful meeting please feel free to call and ask. I would be glad to help in any way. These are great avenues to share information, network , and to move the industry forward

It seems that everyone is on different dates but, all with in a month or so of each other.

Cedar Shake cleaning yes. The issue here is usually by the time we get to them they are in bad shape. Also, there is a new shingle out that looks like a cedar shingle that is very easy to clean and looks great. The trend seems to be going in that direction. We do not do many roofs in Burlington County, NJ at this time. It is something I have looked at and actually am working on a new product for roof cleaning that we will offer in the next 30 days or so.

Dale, I don't know of Clemco. The two that make units that I know about are Sashco and Perm-A-Chink. Mine is the Blaster Buddy from Perm-A-Chink. http://www.permachink.com/

Sounds like more info for the Roundtable. We are going to cover cob-blasting as part of the Advanced Class at the PWNA Convention. The corn media is cheap enough now. This is a specialty service so you charge more anyway. Of course I am always looking for a way to cut costs. I am aware of Sashco.

There is a lot in the post. Thank you for posting it here as I have no intention of going there anytime soon.

I just went back and read some of the reponses. While we all support Brian in his efforts and resurrecting that BB, lets make sure that we are being respectful to The Grime Scene(Beth and Rod). Some of the posts are bordering on advertising. Beth has provided a great BB here and we should all do our best to respect that and her efforts. Now back to the thread.

Rob, I am here everyday. We offer services in wood restoration from non-pressure washing to pressure washing to cob blasting. We offer a variety of services that include sanding and defurring. There are many services, pricing guidelines, procedures, and techniques that we perform that are the same as some and some that are very different. I also believe our line of chemicals are second to none in the industry. I should feel this way about my company and products. I do not hibernate, I also have a Pest Control Business and a Farm. The businesses and interests I have keep me busy year round. This also includes my position with the PWNA. I am also on the Environmental Committee with the South Jersey Chamber of Commerce. I hope the winter is treating you well. I saw the pics of your new machine, I wish you well with it in the coming year.

Brian Keating, I hope it isn't too far gone. You will have your work cut out for you. There have been many complaints about non return of calls, e-mails, and ordering. Many have found other outlets and products. I believe a spark on the BB could be the kick you need to get the rest back up to speed. I wish you all the luck in the world. I too would be happy to help if you need anything. At one time that was THE place to go for anything wood related. Thank for stepping up to the plate!

Californians Alan has stepped up to the plate in trying to get a Roundtable Meeting together. Let's get some folks behind him to attend this meeting. Here is a list of California PWNA Members. How about if we get these folks to chime in here or contact Alan directly. John Hartley James Mitchell Bob Mueller Jean Henryck Chris DuBeau Rick Vidas Frank russo Karen Billings Ron Cloutier George Rorex David Ortiz Michael Haley James moe Tom Maheras David and Diane Sholson Martin Sabanero Keith Linville Erick Owens Gary Crabtree Chris Mehl Mark Sutherland Thomas Petynia Rick Meisenbacher James Lewis Bud Rodriguez Dan Cosgrove Jeff Murray Barry Cask Where are all these folks? __________________ Everett Abrams ABRAMS PLUS INC. / DECK RESTORATION PLUS 1-866-440-3325

I posted the names on the PWNA Site. I'll bring a list over here as well.

This will be our best one yet Skip Markowitz is going to attend the meeting. Skip is the owner of EDI Distributors and has helped us out with these meetings in the past. He will be helping the meeting and providing equipment for demonstrations as well. Skip has great knowledge about equipment. So, if anyone has any questions or wants to see something specific, this would be the place! __________________

I hope people aren't losing interest in these. We already have about 20 confirmed for Medford, NJ. Where are all the folks that have been involved before and who else is interested?

Tonight is the PWNA Wood Chat. I hope that many of you can check in. The last Business Chat was great with many folks checking in. I am sure this one will be even better. I look forward to chatting with many of you this evening. This is the link: http://www.pwnabbs.org/chat1/

As I was reading I knew what I would post. Brian, it was great to see your post. Pete should go only after Shoeless Joe Jackson goes in. Shoeless Joe was only accused and no "real" proof. Pete has confessed. I too am sorry, until Shoeless Joe goes-NO to Pete! I do think they both deserve to be there and should be.

Cabot makes a Bleaching Oil, it is linseed oil based. It is supposed to speed up the graying process. I have never used it, only know of it.

I actually do work sometimes. This was from the spring. Kind of gives you a before and after!

After months of working out...(I even do the Rocks eyebrow)

An airless sprayer will atomize the sealer more than a pump-up. Fine droplets vs Medium Droplets. It would stand to reason that the finer droplets will dry faster therefore penetrating less.

Too Much Information I have got to say this look like it is starting to turn into a competition! Zaniest Mugshot or Avatar.

If I remember from an earlier post I think he said he had just eaten one of his kids!

This link is from the Western Red Cedar Lumber Association. Go down to application. http://www.wrcla.org/finishingcedar/finishingconcepts/guidetoextfinishing.asp Check this out from the USDA, got to methods for finishing at the end of the document. http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf1993/willi93a.pdf There are actually many articles on this. The issue is how much quality do you swap for labor savings. To me that is more of the debate.

I wanted to chime in here on the first thing that jumps out at me. If you are doing a fence and it is the first one, you could do a TON of damage to that with that washer and 3500psi. With the right chemicals(see Beth) you should be able to do this project with less than 1000psi. You really need to be careful if this is your first fence. I commend you for doing it on your own first. Get as much info as you can first and practice on some pallets or waste wood first. In regards to sprayers, when the product atomizes it actually turns into very fine droplets that float on air and can drift. These drops actually dry faster on the surfaces than other methods. This in turn allows for less penetration into the wood pores. The best method is still one that works the product into the surfaces(brush,mitts,pads,etc.) With that said I am sure there aren't very many people who don't spray a fence. We actually use an airless sprayer and backbrush the fence with a wide chinese bristle brush.