ezelder

I think out of respect I would never ask a local for help or advise. I have called a few people on here to pick their brain, but they have all been way out of our area. I think there are plenty of people in this industry that will take a couple days to let you ride a long. . .as long as you are not in a competing market. If you are not serious enough to drive a few hours a way and spend a little money for OJT, then maybe you need to reconsider everything.

My pocket system used to consist of 0020 and 2520 in left 0040 and 2540 in right. Its easy to remember which size oriface is in which pocket. And you can blindly feel the difference between a 0 degree and an angled nozzle. Now, if you hace like 1520 1540 2520 and 1520 you are hosed because they all feel the same. at the tip.... :-)

Are you using the f-13 and no brushing or lightly brushing?

I have used empty milk jugs to do this as well. ANything that will baffle the water. They just need to be able to drain all the liquid out by gravity.

I use Werner Fiberglass ladders only. I use the 300lb rated. They are over kill for me and are heavier. But last forever. Ladder Stabilizer is a must. If you use proper technique one person can easily raise a 32' ext. ladder. Put the feet of the ladder against the foundation while the ladder is perpendicular to the wall. Go to the top of the ladder, walk it up. Once the ladder is straight up, keck the bottom out. I have seen some awful techniques out there. And I have also seen some **** poor methods of a groundman holding a ladder. If anyone has any fire fighter buddies, get them to show you how to raise and hold a ladder.

well, hello over there! Its not bad. Frankfort is a pretty funny town anyway, so that presents a challenge in itself. How is Lex this year? Occasionally I will venture over there to do some things for my step mother, but not often. (she is a realtor)

Nice trailer.

UNLOADERS. . .hmmmm, I never thought about that. I guess you could certainly use two unloaders to prevent the wands from going over 4GPM. . . Thanks for the vote of confidence in me, but unfortunately, I just have thoughts and ideas on this topic. I have no practical expirience so no, I cannot better explain it. hmmmm. I guess the key on the DSers is GPM. If a 4 GPM DS has 8GPM flow through it, w hat happens? If an 8GPM DS has 4GPM flowing through it, what happens? How would you chose which DS to use? You could theorize that you could put it before the T and rate it for 8GPM. However, running 4.5 tips, you aren't going to flow the full amount. So wo uld they ever work? If you run 4.0 or 4.5 tips, will you effectively restrict your flow to 4-4.5 GPM? If so than the original thought of mine to put one each at D and C rated at 4GPM would be fine, becuase the tips are going to prevent each segment from flowing more than 4-4.5 GPM. Don't know. I am just throwing out ideas and thoughts.

Here we go again. . :) ACtually you bring up a valid point. INitially I was thinking he was taking two 4gpm pumps running them in parallel to get 8gpm. But no, he is taking an 8gpm and splitting it to what would logically be two 4gpm wands. There are all sorts of issues here. 1) If you have two wands going, they are going to fluctuate between 4 and 8gpm, depending on if both triggers are pulled or not. This can make tip sizing impossible. If you are tipped for 8gpm, you are golden, until the other wand kicks in, then you are going to drop to a lower pressure spray pattern from an oriface that is too large for the flow. You can take that and run with my thought pattern. If you are tipped for 4gpm, you will reduce your flow, but is it possible to load your pump with too much back pressure? 2) If you put 4gpm injectors on there, you are fine if both are running, but if you run by yourself, you may never be able to get the injector to draw running 8gpm on a single wand. 3) what if you are using both wands and doing more delicate work. Impossible with each wand being on and off and hosing up the flow an pressure of the other. Just some thoughts I had. I don't have expirience splitting a higher flow pump into two lower flowing wands, so I do not have any practicle application to apply to this assumption. But I would love to hear what someone who has "been there, done that" would have to say.

Mothers mag and aluminum polish. Nothing better. But it would suck butts to buy enough little jars to do that much floor. They harder part is application on diamond plate. Terry cloth is optimal, but diamond plate usually tears terry cloth to pieces.

I am mixed about this. I feel that on one side, if you help someone out, out of respect most reasonable people would not step on your toes. But I know many of you have stories on the contrary. If it really came down to it, I would feel out the situation. Some people you can help and they will remember you. Others will steal your tricks and undercut you every time. I don't mind a little competitive bidding, but when people start under cutting you 1300, that's when I draw the line. As unethical as collusion is, I think that people should agree to keep pricing in a certain range. Undercutting hacks do nothing but make themselves and us lose potential dollars. Too bad they are too stupid to see that.

The doubt you created alone is enough reason that I would change it. If you do not have 100% confidence in you rig, it will trickle down to your work.

Oh, I personally would feed the tee with 1/2. It might not make a noticable difference, but every little bit helps and even if it doesn't make any difference, it wo't cost you much more.

I am thinking one at C and one at D both. That would give you the ultimate in flexibility. If you have two on hoses, one could apply one could rinse. Both could apply and rinse. Both could rinse. One could use one chem and the other use a different chem. Thats the only thing that makes sense to me. :-)

Well, after testing and it drying. I am sad to report that on oxidized vinyl it makes no difference in sheen what-so-ever.

I mixed up a gal today and did a test on one half of the side of my house that gets beat really hard by the sun. I made 50 gal from 5. (10%) then I allplied with my DS which I think is either 1:9 or 1:10. Do you notice a significant difference between 1:20 and 1:10? Ot do you adjust according to the amount of oxidation?

Cool. Glad I could help. Ratios always gave me fits. I wish I remembered all the math for calculating double dilutions. There are some formulas that make it much easier. But heck, thats been a few years ago. (about 18)

I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough Without ever having felt sorry for itself. -- D.H. Lawrence

Not certain you really got a good answer. In the midst of my conversation with Kevin, I thought. . .wait, what is the question here. . . To make the math really easy, lets use Kevins math and assume we are making 50g of mix from the 5gal they sent you. thats a 1:9 ratio (5:45=50g total mix volume) and gives you a nice 10% chem concentration. EASY MATH. (Thanks Kevin for the KISS method) Lets say you are only wanting to mix a 5er and not fill a space in your life with 50gal of plexmaster. 5gal * 2% = .5gal. .or 2qt. So you would mix 2qt plexmaster to 4.5gal of water for your total ready to use mix. From there apply it with the x-jet using a proportioner for the application ratio you wish to use. I have some plexmaster, but not used it. So I can't tell you what the best application ratio is. That may be trial and error.

2% is pretty dead on if you DS it at 1:4 (20%) 50gals of mix DS at given ratios: 1:4 (20%) 50:200 = 250 sprayed. 5g/250g=2% Raw Chem (original raw chem volume divided by the final output) Raw Chem to final output: 1:49 1:5 (16.6%) 50:250 = 300 Sprayed 5/300= 1.6666% Raw Chem Raw Chem to final output: 1:59 1:9 (10%) 50:450 = 500 Sprayed 5/500 = 1% Raw Chem Raw Chem to Final Output: 1:99 But my BIG question is: What have most of you found to be the best performance/Value on your application rate? Say we have our 45-55g of mix ready to DS/X-Jet (I think Paul is an anti-x-jet guy) what ratio are you applying the mix at?

I THINK your math is a little off. I am not going to calculate it tonight, I am fried. But this will get you going. But this is how I calculated it: 5gal makes 55. (1:10) that is correct. Your cancentration then is 5chem/55total volume=9.1% chemical You have to calculate your percentage based on total volume, not just the amount of water you add. so at 1:10 2q:20q -22g total volume, or 5.5gal. Of reconstituted concentrate. (using your 2qt theory) that 5.5g would then be DS at 1:10 5.5g:55g = 60.5g total volume. (5.5/60.5=9.1% (again)) If you reduce the ratio of 5.5g:55g by dividing by 5 you will get 1.1g:11g divide both side by two to go from 11gal to approximately 5gal :1.1/2 : 11g/2 That gives you .55g : 5.5g (reconstitute to water) So fo direct spray (no DS) you would use 70.4oz to 5.5gal of water. 70.4 * 9.1% = 6.4oz of raw, undiluted chem per 5.5gal of water for direct spray. I may be totally wrong. I have trouble sometimes with ratios. I think I lied. . .I did calculate it out tonight . . .:-)

OK anyone know how to order Steven's Wet Wax? The information on Rowlett Pressure Cleaning Service (phone numbers that is) is not correct. I am wanting to try this stuff. I did email him at the address on his site, but he hasn't had enough time to reply yet.

OK, clear me up here. ESpec says a 5er will make 45-55gal of product to DS. I take this to mean a typical 7:1 or 10:1 DS unit. Are you saying 1/2 - 1 qt of the UNDILUTED product to 5er then DS? Or apply it to the house at 1/2 to 1 qt (undiluted as shipped to my door concentrate) per 5? I know these are probablly dumb questions, but I have never used this product and just ordered it and awaiting its arrival.

I want to use it as a sealer/wax/protectant for vinyl. What do you recomend based on that? I am currently using a wet wax and get good results. I am hoping that plex master can provide results even better than a wet wax.

Taken out of context, you are correct. You cannot run a site on $10 a month. My reference was to setting up the site itself. The time contribution was to be understood from previous points. While you can put a price per hour on your time, your real cash outlay is zero, which was my point. So the admin side has no cost, except in cases like yours where you pay a third party to admin for you. Then yes, there is a REAL dollar value on that service. You can calculate a price for your time investment based on what you feel your time is worth. Which I am sure, all of us, myself included, would price that at a much higher rate than industry standards. In startup mode (read: pre-sponsorship) you can start a site for the hosting costs alone. Now of course if management of the site is pulling you away from 50-100 and hour (which in your case I am certain it would) then simple economics tells you its much cheaper to pay an admin 20-25 bucks and hour. There are lots of variables to consider. For every single one we solve, another one will trump it.