RyanH

i rinsed my house down yesterday with 3% bleach (ultimate concentration after Xjet) and it only required about a 40 second dwell time to remove the mildew. I rinsed the area down with water first, threw the bleach solution on, hit the plants again with some mist, then rinsed the siding with plenty of water. No damage. I would be more worried about copious amounts of water falling onto delicate flower petals and physically removing them.

http://www.xterior.com/html/chemicals_2.html X-Crete is okay at removing cement drips and drops if it's not too thick.

The solution contains hydrofluoric and sulfuric as a matter of manufacturing processes, not because the sulfuric does anything special. HF acid is EXTREMELY dangerous and should not be used unless very careful precautions are taken. As an acid, HF is particularly weak, but its effects on the body are very hazardous. Tell that lady to quit treating it like apple sauce and treat it with the respect it deserves. A good substitution would be something that is used to get rid of salts and oxidation. Salt Away, Salt-X, and other similar products should work. Marine supply stores may carry this stuff, but you can get it online if you can't find it locally. The good thing about HF is that the fluoride ions bond so well with the cations in the oxidations (cations are things like sodium, calcium, iron, etc. ions...they are formed when the metals and their salts dissolve in water...the fluoride ion will bond with the cations and allow you to wash them away) and allow you to thoroughly clean an oxidized surface (like aluminum oxide or aluminum chloride) which explains why it worked so well on the aluminum surfaces. HF is also used to etch glass, so I wouldn't be using it around windows. Also makes me wonder how brittle that glass jar had to be. And even diluted HF can be dangerous. The amount of "raw" HF required to do a job is the same...if you dilute it you just use that much more solution to get the final results. Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid and is rather strong. Many suggest using phosphoric acid as a substitute. The grout cleaner i use contains a diluted solution of sulfuric acid and works rather well at lightening the grout in areas where normal traffic and mopping has darkened it. Since grout/concrete is porous, many stains are set in and can not be removed chemically without degrading the concrete itself...just let your customers know about this.

Sorry Steve. Something else you could consider (as part of your questionairre) is to have a little section like "have you noticed:" and then you can list some of the things which are very common on most homes, but most people seriously don't even consider to be a cleanable problem, such as: Black streaks on your gutters--we can safely make your gutters SHINE!! Black and green algae and mildew on your roof--we can SAFELY remove it!! Spider webs and grime on your windows--we can make them SPARKLE!! Green stuff taking over your patio--we can make surfaces LOOK LIKE NEW!! Worried about your flowers, plants, and grass? We take care to protect your property from damage and leave you with a fresh, clean, and sparkling home!! According to your area's demands, you can extrapolate this to include whatever is needed, like chimneys, wood, etc.

I think you misunderstand what I meant, and it may be due to what I have seen around here as opposed to how things work in your area. Around my area (Atlanta, GA), there are MANY people who drive around with signs on their trucks with signs that say something like: "Drywall*Carpentry*Painting*Pressure Washing*Decks*Plumbing" Now, I'm not disputing that a single person can be skilled at doing all of those things. In reality, someone who is handy in general is more than capable of doing a good job at many tasks which require handywork. However, a true *professional* will generally specialize in one particular area as they will be more likely to have the appropriate tools and setup to do a specialized job. Nothing irks me more than when I see one of these guys with a beatup pressure washer and some tangles hoses thrown into the bed of their truck along with a few portable saws and some ventilation ducts and signs advertising that they are capable of doing all of these things on the side of the vehicle. Doing a professional job takes time, knowledge, focus, equipment, and experience and I find it hard to believe that someone who claims to be professional at all of these tasks will invest a significant amount of the above in any one particular area...it just wouldn't be profitable as a business. Now, my focus was aimed primarily at the guys who paint and also "do" pressure washing (not a wood working professional). If you are a professional, you don't "do" something. You have a degree of integrity and professionalism about it that is lacking in those that are satisfied with "doing" something. You are a carpenter/remodeler...I can operate a saw and make stairs and put up walls, but if I advertised that type of a service along with pressure washing (or janitorial maintenance, which is my primary focus), I would be doing the "real" carpenters a disservice and possibly giving them a bad reputation if I do a sub-standard job. I have the utmost respect for anyone who is a professional by knowledge and experience, and I would never want to undermine their integrity by claiming that they are less that what they really are. And because I have gained the experience at pressure washing, I am completely ignorant of the practices of woodcare (like refinishing or replacing stuff). And I think that a professional should warn the unsuspecting public that people are out there without dedicated professionalism and will claim to be good at a number of things, when all they are capable of is "doing" it and not "doing it right." Keep on doing what you do well, and nobody can take that away.

Nick...amazing. Absolutely amazing. Wife just bought me the new Spiderman 2 PS2 game so I've been slinging all over NYC....no time for flash games.

I have put in past flyers something to the effect of: "Our intentions are to offer only the highest quality and integrity in pressure washing. We do not offer painting nor handyman services as part of our business as doing so would take away from the high level of focused quality and professionalism we are able to provide." This was a footer on my newsletters and flyers. The message is subtle, but I think it gets the point across that there no such thing as a high quality "jack of all trades." You either do one thing very well, or you do many things just so-so. Consider restaraunts. If you want a good steak, you go to a *real* steak restaraunt, not "Ryan's shrimp, spaghetti, pizza, cookie, ice cream, macaroni, chicken pot pie, lasagna, roast beef, fried fish, taco, and steak house." I would stay away from things being too lengthy in questionairres and keep it simple, but having informational points and some questions sounds like a fantastic idea. Let us know how it works out for ya! Ryan H. (not affiliated with Ryan's chain of restaraunts)

Eric, I'm one of the chumps who bought the HD special...4gpm 3600 psi. Alone, that particular machine doesn't do much. But, after learning how the chems work, investing in an Xjet and a 24' extension pole, and a few other little helpfuls (like a SHURflo and better technique), I can do just fine. The real quality comes in diligence and integrity of the person using the equipment. Granted, equipment does matter (you can't clean effectively with a garden hose), but only up to a certain point. Unless you are cutting concrete, 3600 psi is plenty of pressure (I never apply that much directly to a surface...the pressure is fanned out or used to deliver the spray from a far distance), and increasing from 4gpm to a higher will only allow you to work faster. The only thing I regret with my machine is its inability to effectively drive my 30" surface cleaner. Might need to sell that thing and buy a smaller one. Ryan H.

<http://www.thegrimescene.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/33/sort/1/size/medium/cat/1/page/> These are the only ones that come to mind of late.

DI or NI? Never heard of NI...doesn't mean it doesn't exist. DI water is water that has been "de-ionized." Deionization is the process of removing ions from the water. The ions can be sodium, calcium, fluorine, chlorine, magnesium, etc. Ions usually come in pairs, one being positively charged and the other negatively charged, and can only exist in an aqueous solution (like in water). Once the water dries up, the ions pair up (positive to negative) and form salts, like sodium chloride (table salt), calcium chloride (the filler in calcium hypochlorite), etc., and leaves the residue on a surface in the form of spots. All bottled water, tap water, well water, and other sources of water contain ions to some degree, and using de-ionized water is the only way to ensure the purity. That's why so many people here suggest using DI water when doing window washing and even car washing (especially on dark colored surfaces). Drinking only DI water is not suggested, and is DEFINITELY not a good idea while on the job for a long hot day.

My wife suggested I run for a local office next go-round, and keep plugging along for the next 10 years and try a hand at a national level. She gets tired of my bitching about how so many blunders are made by so many incompetent people and how common-sense seems to be a thing of the past (far past). Atleast I'd be the first president to not have such a goofy hairstyle. I wonder, if all politicians campaign on the issue of "fighting to lower taxes," then whom are they fighting? If everyone has the same belief that taxes should be lowered, then do it dammit and quit putting it off until the next election so you can say that you need another term to do it. I'll be keeping a close eye on my local representatives to see if they commit themselves to doing what they "promised" in their advertising campaigns. Oh, and W'04. Ryan H.

I've sneezed with my eyes open.

I'll take that bombjack and balloon bomber challenge as soon as I regain that Tetris title (still worker on it). Balloon bomber may have to wait until I have about 2 hours on my hands, though, since the time factor seems to be the limiting thing.

How is the water supply to the pump? Could there be restriction of water flow to the inlet? Usually I only get this when I pull from a stagnant source (like a tank) without enough head, but it resolves itself once the pump gets fully primed.

Might try a little elbow grease with a brush and some greased lightning. I've found that what chemicals won't do, a light scrub will. Of course, if it's too high that might present a problem. I'm coming for you on Tetris! Just wait and see.

>>>>>>> A husband and wife were out enjoying a round of golf about to tee off >>>>>>> on the third hole which was lined by beautiful homes. The wife hit >>>>>>> her shot and the ball began to slice. Her shot was headed directly >>>>>>> at a very large plate glass window. Much to their surprise, the ball >>>>>>> smashed through the window and shattered it into a million pieces. >>>>>>> They felt compelled to see what damage was done and drove off to see >>>>>>> what had happened. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> When they peeked inside the home, they could find no one there. The >>>>>>> husband called out and no one answered. Upon further investigation, >>>>>>> they saw a gentleman sitting on the couch with a turban on his head. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> The wife said, "Do you live here?" >>>>>>> >>>>>>> "No, someone just hit a ball through that window, knocked over the >>>>>>> vase you see there, and freed me from that little bottle. I am so >>>>>>> grateful", he answered. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> The wife, said, "Are you a genie?" >>>>>>> >>>>>>> "Oh why yes, I am. In fact, I am so grateful, I will grant you two >>>>>>> wishes, the third I will keep for myself," the man replied. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> The husband and wife agreed on two wishes... one was for a scratch >>>>>>> handicap for the husband, to which the wife readily agreed. The >>>>>>> other was for an income of $1,000,000 per year forever. The genie >>>>>>> nodded and said, "Done!" The genie now said, "For my wish I would >>>>>>> like to have my way with your wife. I have not been with a woman for >>>>>>> many years and afterall, I have made you a scratch golfer and >>>>>>> millionaire." The husband and wife agreed. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> After the genie and wife finished, the genie asked the wife, "How >>>>>>> long have you been married?" >>>>>>> >>>>>>> She replied, "Three years." >>>>>>> >>>>>>> The genie then asked, "How old is your husband?" >>>>>>> >>>>>>> To which she responded, "31 years old." >>>>>>> >>>>>>> The genie then asked, "How long has he believed in this genie stuff?"

Here is a rough scale for how I charge on roofs: Minimum charges: For a single-level, ranch style home under 2000 sq. ft.: $150 Two-level, simple style roof (including split level) under 200 sq. ft: $200 Wierd roof geometries (multiple angles): $225 If the roof is over 60 degree incline: $250 - $275 These prices are for "normal" coverage of algae. This means that there are streaks, but not consistent coverage, i.e., you can still see the roofs original color on about 70% of the roof. For severely nasty roofs, I add approximately $40 for each additional pass (primarily to cover the additional cost of the chemical) I did a roof recently where I had to put three coats of bleach on to completely brighten it. If you have moss growing on it, man that's rough. I've put the Clorox Outdoor bleach directly on moss before and it chewed it up after about 20 minutes. I would spray the mossy areas with this several times and rinse with low pressure. Follow this with another application of regular chlorine/bleach and let it dwell. But, these are just the prices *I* charge. I have no idea what others charge in other areas. It all comes down to what's it gonna cost for you to get up on a roof and monkey around for awhile.

Been wasting good time all week and not doing what I should have been doing. I'm supposed to do a roof tomorrow and I'm going to try and do it completely with a SHURflo setup. I called the friendly folks there and talked with the tech guys and we determined that the 60 psi, 1.8 gpm, 7 amp pump (currently $49.99 at Northerntool) will be sufficient. Got home tonight and hooked it up and it put water up over 15 feet with no problem. Got to go in the morning and find some braided poly hose about 100' and I should be good to go. 115 amp-hour batter from Walmart (approx $60) should carry me for quite awhile on a job. I'm going to order a 12.5 gal plastic upright tank from Northern ($20 online with $10 shipping) unless I can find one cheaper, but it won't be necessary for tomorrow. Just need to find a good way to attach the battery to the hand cart. I may just make a platform above the tank. Many have asked here how well a setup like this works on roofs....I should know by next week how everything worked. Roofs are getting more and more steep nowadays and blasting with huge volumes of water just isn't cutting it without a dwelling compound, and that costs money. Hopefully I can get someone to take some pictures and I can put some pics of my rapelling gear like some have asked for. It'll only be one story, but the roof is very steep. I'll also be able to give some numbers on how much bleach is required for a given area. Ryan H.

The kind of batteries used in jetskis would be adequate. They are small and pack a lot of punch. They can be charged many times, too. Expect to pay around $70 for a very good one.

Set the whole lot on fire and save the wide angle for putting the fire out when the rest of the structure is on fire. I've had moderate success (relative to your method) at blowing across the surface from the topside and a very small angle (almost parallel to the surface). Do it in short bursts so the moving vapor does the blowing, not large amounts of water. This usually helps to lift the needles out. This doesn't get 100% out, but it can reduce it substantially. Then go from the bottom and get the rest out. A leaf blower *may* work, but I've never had too much success with that.

Visit your friend during the week in Marietta and try driving....you might change your mind. Jim, Several years ago HP and TI went to battle over the calculator arena for similar pricing reasons. One claimed the other couldn't possibly be making any money off their units and were only selling them at such a reduced price to try and drive the other out of the market, and when the competition was gone prices would increase as in a monopoly. Fast forward to now (and the past ten years). Try and find an HP calculator on the shelves....and TI hasn't reduced the price of their calculators in years. Technology has become cheaper, yet the units themselves aren't increasing in ability, but are increasing in price. How in the world did this evolve from a topic about wanting to move?

If the difference in price between one that will "just work" and one that will accomodate a larger machine, go with the one to work with a larger machine in the event that you will upgrade to a larger machine in the near future. Check fuel prices in your area of convenience and get the machine that will give you a good savings over a reasonable amount of time.

Won't consider GA, eh? I don't think I'd like any other place, but that's just because I've been here for so long (relatively speaking). As for Walmart, once the one about 0.8 miles down the road from me is finished, I will have 5 of their behemoth, ginormous Super Centers within about 12 minutes of me. Target is working their way...already have 2 with another on the way...right across the street from Walmart. HD...4 within 12 minutes. 2 Lowes with another one the way....right across the street from Target (beside Walmart). Seriously, how many options for underwear, 12-penny nails, and toothpaste does any person need?

You always get the most honest answers when the rationalization process is taken out. Kind of like the old email story about the question given to kids and adults and something like 90% of the kids can answer it but none of the adults can: God made the heavens and the earth. He created everything there is. But what is the one thing that each and every one of us has that God, who can create anything He wants, can never have? Answer: parents. This may be an urban legend, don't know.

Eric, When I began, I used to take my measuring wheel and measure off the house. I would charge $0.50 per linear foot on gutters, $0.55 if the house was two floors, $0.60 if it was higher. Approximately $4 per ground floor window and $10 per upper floor window (keep in mind that windows also include brushing the sills and surrounding trim). I charged anywhere from $0.75 to $1.00 per linear foot on the house itself and added an additional $0.25 per linear foot for a second floor. Flatwork I priced at around $0.06 per square foot. I ultimately realized that measuring everything off looked a little ridiculous (my opinion) and the prices I charged were on the low end. After I did several houses and refined my setup so that I could setup/breakdown as fast as possible, I just started eyeballing the area and gave a price based on that. I like to do things in $25 increments, that's just a personal preference and it makes things easy. If I think I can get in and out in two hours (pull up to drive off time), I usually charge between $150 to $200...this is almost always a single level or split level home. Pulling out the ladder always adds some time, so that is a consideration. On roofs I have a minimum charge of $150, $200 if I have to use my climbing gear. I've scaled this down because I've found much easier and cheaper ways of doing it and most people are reluctant to have it done anyway. I can do a ranch style house in a little over an hour now, so I'm happy with that pay. So far the only thing I do with decks is a low pressure rinse with bleach if there is mold. For some reason, people are content to pay $300k for a house and have bare wood, so pushing a deck strip/clean/stain is pretty much null. And that's pretty much it. I don't push or advertise much anymore, though. Most of my stuff is on the side and from referrals, so I don't have advertising expenses to factor.