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MichiganPowerWashing.com

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  1. Posted · Edited by MichiganPowerWashing.com · Report reply

    You need to understand the hourly wage is not what is really killing the US auto worker. The healthcare packages, pension and labor fees are not listed in that hourly wage. These are all negotiated seprerately.

    Also the UAW has forbid automation to the extent that other car lines to artifically preserve the labor force. Areas that can be automated and done are not.

    That's exactly what I wanted to add . As far as I know just health package in US car company is close to $2000 on average per car... where other companies it's from $300 to $900 . Because of that they can't make money on small cars. they kept building expensive , fully loaded gas guzzlers while Japanese and Korean companies used their heads during fresh start couple decades ago without bad union contracts. You have to remember that all of this was started with unions in "better times" Unions idea didn't change but the whole market/economy did and here is the problem.

    I wonder if we learned our lesson from laughing at Japanese car makers few decades ago . Should we stop laughing now at Chinese car companies ?

    It looks that all union wants is to keep higher wages ....LET ME ASK YOU THIS ....IS IT POSSIBLE TO DO THAT IF THERE IS NO COMPANY IN A FEW MONTHS ?

    I have to add this ... I'm not against unions but I'm against their "CEO role" over big 3

  4. Posted · Report reply

    I have cox reels on one of my rigs which are 3000psi max.I'm using them with 4000psi machine . After 5 years of use ( just cold water in these ) they are doing fine.

    I bought a set of used cox hose reels last week and I've got two issues.

    The first is that the reel is rated for 3k and my machine puts out close to 4k.

    Secondly, they're both setup for 3/8 hose and I'd like to use one for my 3/4 supply hose.

    Anyone ever try to swap out the fluid path fittings and swivel on these to match your hose/psi demands?

    (I've never seen the internals of a hose reel and don't know if this is possible)

  7. Posted · Edited by MichiganPowerWashing.com · Report reply

    Wolman , Penofin , Thompsons , Sikkens .... certifications are a good start. But to be good in wood restoration you need more hands on experience with a good teacher and than months of hard work and many- hopefully small mistakes ... that's what you call experience.

    Good luck

    I have been studying these forums for a few months now, but i believe I need some formal training.

    What do you guys think of the PWNA wood restoration course? Or the Delco wood & deck staining dvd? ( I already am wolman cert.)

    Thanks, David

  8. Posted · Edited by MichiganPowerWashing.com · Report reply

    I found it on local Craigslist

    Deck and Concrete Sealing Business

    Reply to: sale-908699657@craigslist.org [?]

    Date: 2008-11-06, 6:07PM EST

    “America’s Premium LIFETIME Sealants”

    This could be the perfect chance for you to own a VERY PROFITABLE BUSINESS with a MINIMAL START-UP INVESTMENT!

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    We give you the training, the tools, the product, and the know-how to be successful.

    The only ingredient missing is you!

    SEALANTS DIRECT is now setting up and training certified installers ALL OVER THE USA for a ONE-OF-A-KIND WOOD, CONCRETE AND MASONRY SURFACE PENETRATING SEALANT that:

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    · Is now being made available to most USA RESIDENTIAL MARKETS (through certified installers) while still honoring the AMAZING LIFETIME WARRANTY!!

    When exposed to environmental elements, untreated WOOD DECKS, FENCES, PATIOS, CONCRETE DRIVEWAYS AND MASONRY will suffer deterioration that will greatly reduce their cosmetic appearance, their structural integrity, and their value.

    Our Sealant is a ONE-OF-A-KIND, ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY PRODUCT, which carries a LIFETIME WARRANTY OF PROTECTION!

    Learn how to correctly apply our product and:

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  9. Posted · Report reply

    Don't be cheap at business start up . Buy new machine. HD or Lowes would work perfect for residential. Expect to pay about $1000 for a 4 gpm and 4000 psi . You will need more high pressure hose .

    Right now it's a good time to look for one on sale.

    Used be pw is worth maybe $500 and you don't know in what shape the pump is ... do you really want to start your business with broken machine ?

    BTW ... comet pumps are very good quality ... but the one on BE machine is the cheapest kind which may last 100 hours or so ... big pumps can last 500 or more hours without rebuilding.

    Good luck ! Stay wet ! ;-)

    I am looking for some equipment to start doing residental cleaning. I have come across this used BE Pressure washer and wanted to now how much I should expect to pay. The seller says they only used the PW for less than 40hrs.

    Description: 13 HP GX Comet

    Engine: Honda 13HP GX390

    Pump: Comet ZWD4040G

    PSI: 4,000

    GPM: 4.0

    Weight: 175 lbs.

    Components: 16,000 Cleaning units, Chemical injector kit, 13" Pneumatic tires, 50ft Steel braided non-marking hose, "EZ" Start adjustable unloader, Thermal relief valve [145°], 4 Quick-Connect spray tips, Industrial Triplex Pump, 5,000 PSI Gun, 36" Insulated Lance, Direct Drive

    What do you guys think? Thanks.

  11. Posted · Edited by MichiganPowerWashing.com · Report reply

    I tried to tell same thing long time ago on GS. Looks like most prices in western states are much lower than in eastern states ...but delco price list /even updated one :)) / is even much much lower.

    Once again ... what is the point of selling pw equipment if they are showing you with this price list that you can't make any real money in this business ...

    It just make no sense

    I will send Robert some prices from eastern states in a few weeks

    Delco price list hurting the industry,

    I titled that specifically to get you guys to take a look. Now help us fix the problem.

    I think the price list in way to low, used by many new guys that actually follow it. So let’s help ourselves by updating our part.

    If you forward the info to Robert he has promised me he would update the site and have it reflect new numbers.

    You may post the numbers here if you like.

    Keep in mind I posted this because I felt this current list does no one any good. Its way to low.

    The link to list Mobile Power Wash Pricing Survey

    Roberts E-mail delco@dcs1.com

    Thanks

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Is why I mentioned extractive blackening on redwood...now what is this I hearin about peno formula change?. I always assumed the extreme nasty smell that lasts for weeks was from terps. On the lasting 4-5 year...is that in the sun and by use of the red can?. I've seen red version go totaly colorless in direct sun in under two year but seen blue label look like new undergoing same amount of time in the shade.

    "New" penofin lost a lot of pigments. Now it looks like oil with some dirt in it .... several years ago it was completely opposite ... lots of "dirt" and some oil :).

    I have never used red label because here in MI it was almost impossible to find it.

    Normally penofin will last about 1 year in MI . Penofin lasting at least 4 years was always on never treated before wood and on the sun most of the day.

    Moisture is way worst stain enemy than suns uv rays

  13. Posted · Edited by MichiganPowerWashing.com · Report reply

    I was using Penofin for many years and I have never seen it turning black. I did over 900 decks with penofin alone and no problems.

    The only time I saw something like that it was on 3 story wood house which was sprayed with penofin from the ground using big ass pump and the garden hose by the builder when the house was new and it was over 10 years ago.

    Penofiin says LESS IS BETTER , but they applied this motto also to the production process so this year was the first "penofin free" for me and the smell is gone too ! ;-)

    By the way .... Some of the decks I stained with penofin were looking VERY GOOD after 4-5 years .... strange

    But Beth - lots of folks here, including yourself have said remarks about products such as penofin turning black after several months. And I know you always do proper prep. My question is if it's true that a mildewcide has no bearing on mildew growing on top of the surface - then why is certain products have gotten the reputation of turning black and others haven't? Is there something some manufactueres install into their products that get exuded during the life cycle of a stain that prevents mildew growth on top of a surface? I've heard rumours of some stains that include like a copper oxide - that I imagine gets slowly released over time as the stain gets older and deteriorates, much like the olden lead oil paints of yesteryear, which basically unleashes a powerful toxin to this microcopic vegetation. Thus preventing mildew growth from their decks.

  14. Posted · Edited by MichiganPowerWashing.com · Report reply

    I found this on Craigslist .... Anyone interested ? ;-)

    Clean my clocks /w a power washer

    NEED SOMEBODY TO CLEAN BIRD SH-IT OUT OF COO COO CLOCKS A.S.A.P

    Call 313 778-2669,

    • Location: DETROIT
    • Compensation: CASH $400.00
    • This is a contract job.
    • Principals only. Recruiters, please don't contact this job poster.
    • Please, no phone calls about this job!
    • Please do not contact job poster about other services, products or commercial interests.

    PostingID: 891591638

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Great and important tips . Thanks

    You guys deserve quality answers to the most important question in this industry..

    How to make a heater safer, and more reliable.

    Basically..

    Temperature control switches... should be hermetically sealed... rated for wet conditions.

    Adjustable versions typically seen on PW's are not rated for wet conditions, so they don't last.

    Especially when they are used to turn on a H.V. igniter, on 12 volts DC.

    They should be rated for 10 degrees over the temperature you plan on using...

    IF your heater runs at 200 degr. in the summer time, use a 210.

    Pressure Relief valves... should be on the inlet side of the heater...

    If the coil's plugged with scale, the relief needs to react. Eh ?

    It should NEVER be mounted up-side-down, as it fills with scale, and won't open when it needs to.

    It should NEVER have less than a stainless steel ball, as the rubber ball version is cut, the first time pressure passes it.. You can't adjust it without destroying it !

    A regulating relief valve, like the J.E Adams versions are WAY reliable for years and years.

    Also, they are WAY more sensitive than a Pop-Off style relief.

    I just wish I could get Adams to make 4, 5, 6, and 7000 psi versions... somebody will.

    You should have a relief valve before, AND after a pressure-actuated unloader...

    to protect the heater AND the pump. Eh ?

    Flow Switches... are better than pressure switches...

    We want the heater to go on when there is FLOW, not just trapped pressure.

    But, the new TMT flow switch seen on the example Silver Eagle system is a device which is a little more difficult to troubleshoot, as a magnet doesn't affect it, and when they fail, they fail in the on position more often than off. I like the ST5 Flow switches best for up to 4000 psi, especially because they are easiest to troubleshoot, and they last for years. Another real important thing to know about pressure and flow switches... they should NEVER be used to turn on a Hi Voltage igniter...

    The inductive reactance in start-up of the HV draws BIG current, like starting a motor... WAY too many machines are "eating" HV igniters on 12vDC. They require a power relay...

    An automotive style 40 amp relay will last about 12 to 24 months.

    The 70 amp version will last 4 to 7 years. You can expect 4 to 5 years of use on a HV igniter.

    We've proved this, when we did the initial field testing for Beckett before they released them out in the industry... in the early 90's. We wrote the schematic in their Owners' manual that shows the 70 amp control relay.

    You should also have "the perfect charging system" with BEEFY, CLEAN connections,

    and a group 51 battery, or larger... NOT a garden tractor battery... they are WAY too wimpy.

    The 12 volt burners can be very reliable when the above rules are followed. ...and SAFE !

    One last thing about the example Silver Eagle system..

    Those galvanized fittings on the inlet side of the pump have to go !

    ... they are gouing to constrict the flow, and send rust flakes in to the pump valves, and through the system eventually into the trigger-gun valve, or a spray nozzle.

    Next machine you buy... Ask your local dealer for Long-Term-Low-Cost. Eh ?

    Glad to help.

    Jerry McMillen, President

    www.PressureWasher.net

    manufacturer of... Sirocco Performance Vacuums

    and... BullDogPro Water Blasters.

    call direct… 619-448-8111

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks Vince for all your help so far ... It's really frustrating when things goes wrong and there is no support from manufacture and local PW shops have no idea how to help me.

    I bought another set of parts to try to fix it today.

    I will let you know if I fixed it or if I was lucky to fit it in a dumpster

    It could be the flame sensor. I'd check to make sure you don't have any propane leaks in any of the lines or around the fittings. It could be a safety kicking in. It will do what you say it's doing if there is a leak detected somewhere.

    I'd also check to make sure the orifice isn't plugged up and make sure the gas solenoid is staying open. I have one of these machines and have encountered practically every problem that can occur with the Silver Eagles. If you need help don't hestitate to call me anytime.

    Vince Wood

    Diamond Bar, Ca

    562-331-0301

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Whatever you do just stay away from the Silver Eagle machines. The stainless steel on those machine is worth more than the machine itself.

    Vince Wood

    Diamond Bar, Ca

    562-331-0301

    Doesn't matter if it's good or bad quality or if it's working or not ... At least Silver Eagle units look good ;-)

    By the way ... Silver Eagle company - They have the best customer service , best machines and best prices . Customer support is one of the kind ... And I want to say one more thing I really believe in ... Earth is flat ! - not round like one crazy Polish guy said in 15th century ...

  22. Posted · Edited by MichiganPowerWashing.com · Report reply

    I do not have one, but they make both propane fired and diesel fired burners. You have one type and the pic is of the other type, maybe?

    I have single burner / propane / 12 V but same type like on the pic. My question is what I'm missing on mine . I have pressure hose going from pump to the coils and on the other side just quick connection to my pressure hose and gun ... that's it . I don't have any type of thermostat , pressure regulator , burst disc ... The only safety thing I have on the machine is pressure and thermal relief valve on the pump. Should I or can I install anything else ?

    Thanks

  23. Posted · Edited by MichiganPowerWashing.com · Report reply

    I found this picture here on GS . Can someone explain what's the stuff there ? I also have silver eagle .... but mine don't have most of this stuff ... made for China ? ;-) I'm talking about outlet and inlet of the coil. Do I missing some important safety features on mine ? Mine is open gun with no unloader on the pump , no regulators anywhere ... the simplest design I have ever saw ...

    Maybe someone have user manual for ANY of silver eagle machines ? I'm trying to get one from manufacturer ... It's harder than to go to the mars ...

    Thanks !

    5885d1160198418-large-hot-washers-p9280020.jpg

  24. Posted · Edited by MichiganPowerWashing.com · Report reply

    Hi

    I have sliver eagle unit - hot water / propane fired machine. 12 volts

    I have spark at the beginning and flame but after few seconds flame and sparks are gone completely or propane is burning with tiny ( pilot like ) flame next to nozzle for short time .

    I have gas in the engine

    Propane cylinder full

    New battery

    What to try / check . Any idea ?

    I just contacted silver eagle ... they told me to check flame sensor . I'm going to try that ... hope it works

    BTW it was working great but several days ago I have accident with my trailer ....

  25. Posted · Edited by MichiganPowerWashing.com · Report reply

    Its also why I won't pull a trailer w/o brakes!

    with or without brakes ... I hate to tell you but trailer with brakes after disconnecting will turn the brakes on ... THAT'S IT . It will not try to steer , watch for pedestrians , buildings , road signs and other cars on the road. It don't have traction control , stability control or ABS ...

    I'm trying to say that it's not fail safe system . As always read directions , follow any required maintenance and use common sense when connecting and driving with ANY trailer.

    "Power" of the trailer ... YouTube - SUV Flips On Highway

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