RCBill

Doug, I built a Sureflo pump system. The 1.8 gpm model. It has been very good for applying chems, difficult to use for applying stain on fences. I wouldn't try to do a deck with it.

Tim, I am now just finishing up my fence. I tried everything you listed and more. I made several significant mistakes that required a lot of work to recover from. Almost wore out an Osbourne. Great learning experience. While it is/was a PITA to fix my mistakes, I feel most comfortable when I know the limits of a tool or technique, and how to avoid and recover from problems. If you approach this as you plan to do jobs, your shortcomings will become evident. If you try the different chems you will learn how they work. I would suggest trying different pressures to see what happens. If you tear something up, fix it. Consider how you will deliver you service. Start early and put in a full day. Record labor and material usage rates. This will be gold for you.

Thanks folks. Just what I needed. Can anyone help me with my golf game? Man, did I have a long day. Bill

I wanted to get the downstreaming equipment that was written of in the 'First Solo Housewash' thread. I have to admit that I'm still pretty unknowledgable about PW equipment and I have to get or try exactly what I read of here. I'm looking for the injector and tip that M. Williamson referred to. I don't need poor customer service. If you could point me in another direction I'd be grateful. Bill

Well, I did google espec. And I just went through most of the listings that came up with a search on espec to no link. But thanks, Bill

Howdy, I was talking to a counter guy today about TWP and Wolmans. He mentioned that contractors were having trouble with the arsenic in new wood. I don't recall anything being posted here. Does anyone have information on this subject? Ken W., no email anywhere. Look forward to meeting you. Bill

Yep, I mixed it up. We were talking about copper.

Once upon a time, I earned a living engineering and servicing motor controls. I'd like to make a couple 'improvements' to the operation of the 1.8 gpm model that I'm using. Is there anyone out there that has something to offer on this? Bill

I will be looking to sub out some washing and deck/fence work this summer. You Wilmington guys that want some work should call me at 620-6300. I'd like to get a biz relationship started before things get hot and heavy. Bill

Buy a smaller Shurflo? Pete, let's not make this too easy.

Man, you guys travel.

Last summer I attempted to restore my deck. I write attempted because the results are unacceptable. The color is uneven. In the begining.... the deck was in terrible shape, UV damage, dry, and cracked. I replaced a lot of wood. I got it washed pretty well, removing dead wood, and learning to use the Osbourne brush. So far, pretty good. I'm ready for the Ready Seal Lt. Brown. I apply two layers as instructed to less then spectacular results; some of the wood is near black, some is brown as expected, and the new wood is another brown. I understand why the new and old wood would absorb different amounts of stain. And I understand that being a painter and all, that I would have challenges with exterior wood. None-the-less, I need to learn a few things from this. 1. Is very UV damaged wood a poor application for a transparent stain? 2. When I need to replace wood, should I look for something other than a transparent stain. 3. Can anything be done with the existing stain to even the color? TIA, And Happy Easter, Bill

Pete, I used my 1.8 Shurflo to apply stain. The pump supplied more than the tip/hose could dispense leading to cycling. And the tip dispensed a bit more than I would like for a deck. It was OK for the fence where I could move. In the old days I had access to components I could plug in and try, not anymore. Bill

Russ,Thanks, hadn't even looked at that. But I think lowering the off set-point will increase cycling, which is another condition that I'd like to eliminate. Not much PW experience here. I've used the soap tip for my 4gpm pump to spray stain. If I lowered the pressure set-point and increased the orfice of the tip, would I get more volumm, a smaller 'cone' of material, and less cycling? Doesn't sound right but I'll leave it out here for comment.BTW, the link to your equipment website redirects to a website marketing outfit.Bill

Pete, I want to slow the flow, change the on/off set-point, and maybe add an accumulator. I see that Shurflo sells an accumulator. Well, maybe a Shurflo distributor that I surfed accross does. The motor is dc. Reducing the voltage will slow it down. I can do that with a power resistor, rheostat, or dc drive. The current sensing on/off switch is something to deal with. Somebody is doing this for some application. The carpet cleaners are using these pumpmotors also. I would rather not invest my time in money in something that somebody else is already doing and would share with me. I do however enjoy building a solution to a problem. Bill

Rich, I understand the first paragraph. Just curious, what language was that for the second? I sense that having a firm grasp of the interaction of the chems and stains that we're using is gonna be pretty important (oops, comedy doesn't transmit well in this medium), so I need to ask a few things. What would a finish that is failing due to poor or omitted nuetralizing look like? How fast might a stain begin to fail? Do I understand you correctly in that the caustic cleaning agent will go after the stain? What does it do to it? I think of three, maybe four, different wood cleaning agents, bleach, Percarb, a Percarb with other agents like EFC-38 (I guess each of those added chems is an agent), and Sodium Hydroxide. Is each caustic enough to require nuetralizing? Shane, do you nuetralize da bleach? Am I spelling nuetralize correctly? Bill

What happens when the wood has not been nuetralized correctly? I will check on the semi-trans deck stain. I used the semi for fences to great results.

Good post and very good advice Ken.

The picture of the deck was shortly after I stained it. Much of the color has disappated. The cracked board was typical of what I moved into. I cannot post new pictures until I purchase new software. Bill

Rick, The wood is PTP. I cleaned with EFC-38, then bleach. As I recall, I applied Oxalic after the 38. I don't think that I would be able to state with any kind of accuracy how much material I put on. I believe I put the first layer on about as heavy as the wood would allow and most likely did the same with the second. I did not allow puddles. The deck gets a lot of sun. I have a moisture meter and while I do not recall measuring the wood, I do not think that applying stain to wet wood would be a mistake that I would make. Lot of wood in that last sentence. About parafinic oils; Do parafinic oils contain parafin? Isn't this wax? Isn't wax difficult to coat with good adhesion? Do most 'Woodies' use parafinic oils exclusively? I see that Wood Defender offers a semi-transparent fence stain, but not a semi-transparent deck stain. What could the limitations be? Thanks, Bill

I know what you mean! Bill

I need a little help. When I expect an image or a video I get this little box with a red x in it, in the upper left hand of the space in which I expect the picture or video. I've been shutting down security, but nothing is changing. A little direction would sure be appreciated. TIA, Bill

Hey Rick, We lived in Metuchen 'til '02. Winter always lasted too long. Bill

You can by the magnetic back in Office Max and make your own. Cheap is good. Bill

It's a beautiful morning in the Cape Fear. My fence is lost to Ready Seal. The furring will not allow it. Thank God I learned this lesson on my fence. I need another stain/seal. A market that I would like open to me is the restoration of exterior wood in a larger scale; communities, maybe local gov. So I need something that you may not see on Better House and Garden, but it covers, it isn't fussy, and on the cheaper side. Any recommendations? Bill