RCBill

I tried a number of different solutions. The surfaces with the least fuzz were treated with either simple Percarb or EFS-38. I used a 25 tip and was pretty aggressive, knocking the dead stuff off. I got in trouble with the HD-80, CPR, and some pretty hot bleach. A second problem is that the fence is a shadow box. Had I been working on a simpler design, I could have buffed the Percarb and -38 treated surfaces and used RS. My test spot with RS looked pretty good, looking past the fuzz. In summary, I think that my problem was solutions that were too hot for my application, not too much pressure. A process that I did not try that someone, maybe Jarrod, posted was prewetting the wood before application of the cleaners. Could someone elaborate on this? I appreciate all the input from everyone on this. Even a phone call with Shane. Real professional group here. Never felt this good about having a problem with a job. Bill

Mike, I can't find that URL, and I gotta get outta here. Try a search in this wood catagory. I'll bet Reed has it handy. If you can't come up with it I'll look for your later. It's the Log Cabin Store or something like that. You need a $200 Makita to spin the thing. Bill

Thanks for the fast reply men. Mike, the RS sinks through the fuzz, coloring the solid wood while leaving the fuzz whiteish. Rich, I do have the Makita and an Osbourne. I used it on my deck and offer a super buff upgrade. A problem unbeknownst to you is the this is a shadow box PITA, can't buff it. I wouldn't if I could though. I do not think that I could get the labor back from the client. I have read about the WTW and have a fiver on back order from Sunbrite. Reed, the Wood Defender is what I had in mind. Celeste must be busy, I thought she would be the first to post on this. So, WD will sit on top of my fuzz?

I am having similar problems with a cedar fence, mine. This is a lab for me also, I've used a number of different cleaners/strippers. I have been of the opinion that I need to knock the UV damaged wood off. It seems to me that 1) it is impossible to do this without getting furring, and 2) I would think excess stain would collect in the lightened, but spongy damaged material left in place. Please post your comments. Rod has posted that for severly damaged wood he recommends a semi-transparent stain. My experience with coatings is that you just can't put everything on anything. Do any readers specify different coatings based on conditions? Or do most stay with one finish and make it work? I put my cleaners/strippers on dry wood. Is that the way you apply yours? TIA, Bill

http://www.trumpuniversity.com/

Wondering if anyone else guarantees their work. What you may guarantee. How do you communicate the guarantees. Bill

Thanks men. Rich I understand. But I do not see how to PM. Maybe I should get some sleep.

I guess that was a dumb question.

I'm going to Myrtle Beach this year. Bill

I just lost a very eloquent and interesting post that I wrote. Lightning doesn't strike twice, so I just gotta ask; When I have organics growing on wood that I want to clean, and I did not want to use bleach, is HD-80 the solution of choice? What is the mix? Do I need to neutralize Percarb, EFC-38, and HD-80? If the intent is neutral Ph, how do I know how much Oxalic to use? Bill

Thanks Ken. BTW, the sales site you posted a link to has been a real jolt, in a good way, to my marketing plan/efforts. I like sales and marketing, but operations get in the way. I read that you are an IT guy. I did some electrical engineering that included writing boolean algebra type of software back in the day the US did some manufacturing. My buddy is/was a databaser. He's washing now too. As much as I liked making machines do my bidding, I prefer the absence of politics that these services provide. Out in the fresh air, covered with dirt, man, this is living. Bill

If the HD-80 is a go, I'd like to wash this afternoon. So, if you know the answer and the mix and have unlimited weekend minutes, and would like to call me, my phone is 910-620-6300. TIA Bill

Russell, how will I purchase your tinting kit? We have a franchise in town named Wood Re-New. They are marketing a 'special' Wolman's formulation. They are about 15% lower cost than I want to be. How do I sell WTW against Wolman? If you would like to expand into a little sales seminar a few selling points in comparison to Cabots, Flood, and the SW products would be helpful also. Bill

Thanks Russell, Just what I needed. I know that I am not much of a customer to you now. But if I grow to be anywhere near my ambitions, I will be. The reason that I say this is because a lot of PITA questions and no PO can get old. I hope that you'll bear with me. Features like pigment and anti-fungal additives is something that I can technical mind around and sell. I will copy and paste your post to a sales notebook I use. In the near future I will look for this kind of post on -38 and -80. I will have a WTW features/benefit sheet in my credability book. I may put a handout together to attach to my proposals. If you've already put something together for contractor use, please forward it to me. I can't sell on good looks, don't have any. Just the facts. I look forward to making a lot of money with you. Bill

Thanks men. Russell, Mike, of the tinting thread, states that Sunbrite does not have tinting kits yet. The job I wanted the tint for was my own fence. As I want to learn the product without a homeowner looking over my shoulder I'll wait for the tint. I don't have a lot of questions about your products. I've read and reread posts. I just wanted to hear from the rep why WTW is better than other sealers/stains that can be applied to a damp surface. And that is purely for sales ammunition. Ken, I’ve been thinking about the color benefit. Don’t Wolman and Cabot’s offer enough colors to minimize this benefit? I have been getting my work through referrals for a while now. I guess people trust me. This is what I come up with on your contractor grade feature. The stripping may not be true. If it is not, please tell me. And the cleaning paragraph is from reading posts. I like to have a presentation somewhat prepared. Here are a couple scripts that I can load into my sales gun. What do you think? Is there something you would add? WTW is not rated by Consumer Reports because it is distributed through trade channels to contractors. The contractor products last longer, look better, and are actually good for exterior wood. The downside is that the contractor products require application skill that the consumer products do not. There will come a time when I will need to strip an old sealer. I am sure that I will be able to strip the WTW, but I am not confident about the other materials. This could be a significant problem. Finally, the sealer is the second step in the process that I bring to a homeowner. The first, very important step, is the cleaning and neutralizing operations. My cleaners remove dirt and dead wood without damaging the wood we want to beautify. My use of bleach is limited to killing algae. And I neutralize the Ph of the wood thereby facilitating penetration of the oils in my sealer. I wonder what the other guy is not doing. Mrs. Homeowner my price isn’t too much, his is too little.

OK then, I guess it's time to place an order! Ya better ramp up production Russell. I'm in a selling fever. Bill

I'd like to use WTW, but like Mike I need more information about tinting. Same question; can I use the universal tints. And, has anyone worked out formulas. Bill

James, What is your recommendation for an additive to a housewash to reduce or eliminate window problems? How do you clean windows? Bill

We have shake roofs all over the place here. And they are all going to hell. It's driving my entreprenurial mind crazy. :lgbonk: :lgbonk: :lgbonk: Is anyone treating these? Bill

Xtreme was wrong, Xterior.

I met a guy at Xtreme a while back that was doing shake roofs. He was putting a product on that is made my Chevron, the oil people.

Great post Jeff. You motivate me too. I was in MB Sat and would have stopped by had I known where you were working. Bill

Jon, I just lost a long, long post on creating a meaningful budget. I am just too frustrated to start again now. Bill

Jon, I'll start a thread in Business Matters.

Thanks Jon, I don't have much experience PW. As that is the topic generally, I do not have much to offer. But I've been in business for a while now. Which means I've taken a lot of lumps. But more importantly, I've been fortunate to be exposed to a number of successful contractors and business gurus. So, from time to time I can offer something. I'll post on the speadsheet and budget matters in the near future. Right now I have a Tee-time with a good friend. This guy built a chain of 350 carpet stores. Later, Bill I got the spreadsheet idea and much of the budget stuff from the guy that organized www.thenapp.com. He tracked man hours.