RCBill

Well, I wanted to ask you for some kind of assurance that the Osbourne Brush would be a great tool, but I didn't know how to phrase it. Is this the brush; crp0013-6r 6" round - 1-1/2" bristles ? TIA Bill

Gearing up for a new service offering can be difficult. I've had a hell of a time getting the right fittings for my SureFlo pump system. The guys at Sun Brite have been very helpful. Recently I had a problem that one of the Sub Brite guys named Jim got his teeth into. He went a couple extra miles to help me to an appropriate resolution with a third party. Good job Jim. I wish I could find an employee with your work ethic. Bill Lightner

Greetings from the Cape Fear, I just about have my SureFlo Pump System ready to earn some money. All I need now is a pump primer and battery connectors. So I ask you, will the marine gas bulb primer work? Also, I would like to use the large aligator clips for easy connection to the battery. But I can't think of a retailer that may sell them. Any suggestions. BL

Thanks for the response folks. Celeste; would you post a brand name or something for me to google. Jon; I just can't picture how a rotary cutting device leaves a finish without cross-grain marks that would be accented by the stain. I trust that you and other wood pros have this knocked. How do I cut cross-grain without leaving scratches (sp?)? Bill

Good, Pete. I've been a PITA.

Greetings, The problem with the deck I've recently cleaned was gray, dead wood. I cleaned with ESP-38 applied with a pump-up. While the results were good, I need to improve what I have before sealing. Shortcomings are; a little gray here and there, and furring. I searched the forum and read the posts. To those of you that have taken the time to share your expertise; Thank you. I do have a couple questions. I'll need to defur. I have a belt sander. I have read that a cirular sander with defurring pads seems to be the tool of choice. Will the belt sander do the job? What grit do you like? Does the circular sander leave cross-grain scratches that become more evident upon staining? Does anyone sand an entire deck? The deck is bone dry. I want to stain asap. Is the correct remedy to the residual dead wood sanding? What do you do when you return to a deck and find small areas that could use more cleaning or removal of sealant? Am I correct in presuming that my use of a pump-up may lead to inconsistent application of chems, that would in turn lead to the residual dead wood? TIA Bill

I guess I should have tried the belt sander before I made the post. The cut of the belt sander is limited by the grain. Am I correct to presume that the defurring pad gets into the grain to remove softer material? Bill

Thanks for the generosity. BL mypainter@charter.net

A great way to have an opportunity to talk to decision makers is through referral. A great way to get referrals is through a business networking group. I have participated in several. Currently I am with a BNI chapter. A relative newcomer in the group is a woman, new to town, that is building a commercial cleaning business; ie, offices. She is getting referrals. If you would like to communicate with her post that desire and an email addy. Bill Lightner

Greetings from the Cape Fear, I would like to try Wood Tux on my next deck. I have read that the Wood Tux specifies one layer, where Ready Seal specs. two. If I am correct, the Wood Tux is actually less expensive than Ready Seal. Do I have that right? Is it difficult to see the application of the Wood Tux stain on wet wood? I read that many installers are using an airless or the deckster. I have an HVLP. Do you know of anything wrong with using the HVLP? Do you spray and back brush? Do you spray all surfaces? What do you use to protect adjacent surfaces. What do you use to protect foliage? How do your correct missing an area in cleaning when you return to stain? How do you remove small spots of paint that a not-so-handyman left on the deck? I am quoting a deck with several small levels a couple steps up-and -down from each other. There is some exposed support lumber that will need to be cleaned and stained. Do you quote this using sq.ft. plus PITA, or an other way? I can get close to time and materials. I hope I am not asking too much. TIA, Bill

Thanks for the response folks. Beth, the thread that you provided a link to was informative. I'll need to acquire cotton sheeting. My only thought is something cheap at Walmart. Do you have a better source? Celeste, I will call. I'd like to try the Wood Tux on my deck and specify it for my first client. She referred about $15k in painting work to me last year. So I gotta be good. BL

This is better; http://www.rescueresponse.com/store/Tree_Aborist_Gear.html

Phillip, Where did you learn about rope? I am getting a system set up. I have a natural fiber 5/8" twisted rope that I plan to use over the house to place loop at the crest to which I planned to attach a line to my rappeling harness. I was not considering stopping 2200#. More like something to grab on to should I start to slide. Here's a link; http://www.versales.com/ns/rope_nets/new_england/kernmatle.html Bill

Hi Folks, I need to replace wood on a deck that I am cleaning and sealing with Ready Seal. What do I do about the new wood? Do I seal it with the old wood? What do you deck restorers do when wood needs to be replaced? If you remove and replace wood, how and what do you charge? I've used a nail-puller made by Cresent. It did a pretty good job. But if you do something that is faster and easier, please tell me what you are doing. TIA, Bill

Jon, That's how I get them up. Pull some nails, a little prying, a little pullin', some knocking wit da hammer, and its up. No damage to adjacent boards. I just bought a little rental that has one of the crummiest, dirtiest decks I've ever seen. Gonna clean it with Extreme Solutions and coat it with Ready Seal. I should get some real good marketing pictures. I'm kinda excited about the PW work. It's been a while since I've done anything but paint. Bill

Shane, The nail puller is fairly easy. It is made by Cresent, the adjustable wrench people, $40. It does take time though. I have been considering other methods. One thought was to use a type of bar used on truck loading docks as a lever. It would work like a super strong claw hammer with a six foot handle. I'll wait to when I get a job to make the $90 investment. Bill

Thanks, Reed. I see that you frame your services as Fence and Deck "CARE". I plan to offer Deck "RESTORATION", instead of PW. I'll be replacing wood. I would like to do extraordinary finishes also, like two-tone. I want to be very good at this. Well, I like to be very good at anything that I do. I've built a good reputation painting which allows me to get more money. I'll do the same with decks. Bill

You know Don, I thought that was what you meant. So, I have supply hose> fitting> ball-valve> fitting> input to pump. (Man I gotta tell ya, I have all kinds of technical background but I feel like a dumbass.) As I prepare to start the motor, with the supply hose/ball valve connected to the input, I close the ball I'm gonna just have to work on this with some kind of privacy. Thank you to all, Bill

Well, I started the Honda 6-8 times will supply hose connected, no wand or even hose connected to the output and there wasn't a hint of a yank on the pull-cord. So I'm gonna call it a load problem. Unless someone tells me otherwise, I will insert a tee in the output with one side going to the wand and the other going to a ball-valve. I'll open the ball-valve to start, closing it after the motor is running. Thanks again to all, Bill

Russ, I'll do it. I'll run some water through it first just to get the pump wet. If I works 8-10 times without dislocating my fingers, we go to ball valve. Otherwise it's back to the seller. Thanks all, Bill

Hello Folks, I'm just getting my feet wet with my new PW and I have a couple questions. 1. My machine generates 3500#/4gpm. Can I reduce the pressure, while maintaining gpm with another nozzle? I want to reduce pressure for wood and to limit the dispersion of the cleaner and the dirt. 2. I am struggling to clean my roof, which is pretty black. I am using 10% diluted about 20%, plus barlux, x-jetted without a proportioner. After several applications the roof needs more. Could this be expected with a very dirty roof? 3. How long of a chemical supply hose can I use on my x-jet? 4. Application of chems was pretty messy due to some wind. The roof is too steep to walk. What can I do to use an extension with low pressure. I am familar with the sureflo (at least I've read about it). But I don't recall reading of someone using an extension with the pump. At any rate, what can I do to apply chems on an unwalkable roof on a windy day? TIA Bill

Hey Russ, This is a new machine. And it doesn't always behave like this. Does this information change your opinion? Thanks, Bill

I've been pulling the trigger when starting, but I may not have been consistent. I guess the ball valve is mtd at the water input? All that I know of for a supply of parts is Delco. Not that that's bad. I'll go to their on-line catalog for the easy-start valve. I need to give that counter-rotation some thought. When the problem occurs, it is quick, it does seem that a single explosion pulls the cord out of my hands. I have not be using the choke other than for the initial startup. I don't understand how failing to use it leaves gas in the cylinder. But I have the Owner's Manual in front of me. I give it a good read. Thanks Men, Bill

I got some new 15%, but it worked about as well as the 10%. I did dilute by about 20% with water. This roof was really black. I think things are just a bit tougher here in NC. A flock of mosquitos tried to carry off the neighbor's dog a few days ago. Never heard a dog make noise like that. Bill

Pete, thanks. I found a good supplier here in Wilmington for tools, equipment, and chems. Bought the 8.0 nozzles today. The roof wouldn't be much for a guy with a few under his belt. All-in-all it isn't really that hard for me. I'm just trying to wring out as much learning out of it as I can. I like to reduce questions to a fundemental that I'll use later. CCPC, thanks for responding. I bought the chlorine from a hardware store. Could it have lost some potency? Today I found an industrial supply outfit that serves the trade. They have 15% that I will use in the future. I do plan to do roofs. And I will put together a sureflo system. In fact, I'll order the pump from Northern tonight. This roof is a little steep for me. Do you use an extension wand? I am familiar with them including the coress from Glenn. I did a little mountaineering in the army a few years ago. I will put together some rigging that will let me climb to new heights. May have to put a stop to the seconds on pasta though. pldoolittle, thank you too. I'll look for your thread. I have a acquaintence in Fayetteville named Jake. Runs a painting business. He's told me Fayetteville is a pretty small town. Do you know of him?