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RCBill

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Posts posted by RCBill

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Tim,

    I am now just finishing up my fence. I tried everything you listed and more. I made several significant mistakes that required a lot of work to recover from. Almost wore out an Osbourne. Great learning experience. While it is/was a PITA to fix my mistakes, I feel most comfortable when I know the limits of a tool or technique, and how to avoid and recover from problems.

    If you approach this as you plan to do jobs, your shortcomings will become evident. If you try the different chems you will learn how they work. I would suggest trying different pressures to see what happens. If you tear something up, fix it.

    Consider how you will deliver you service. Start early and put in a full day. Record labor and material usage rates. This will be gold for you.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    I wanted to get the downstreaming equipment that was written of in the 'First Solo Housewash' thread. I have to admit that I'm still pretty unknowledgable about PW equipment and I have to get or try exactly what I read of here. I'm looking for the injector and tip that M. Williamson referred to.

    I don't need poor customer service. If you could point me in another direction I'd be grateful.

    Bill

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Pete,

    I used my 1.8 Shurflo to apply stain. The pump supplied more than the tip/hose could dispense leading to cycling. And the tip dispensed a bit more than I would like for a deck. It was OK for the fence where I could move.

    In the old days I had access to components I could plug in and try, not anymore.

    Bill

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Russ,Thanks, hadn't even looked at that. But I think lowering the off set-point will increase cycling, which is another condition that I'd like to eliminate. Not much PW experience here. I've used the soap tip for my 4gpm pump to spray stain. If I lowered the pressure set-point and increased the orfice of the tip, would I get more volumm, a smaller 'cone' of material, and less cycling? Doesn't sound right but I'll leave it out here for comment.BTW, the link to your equipment website redirects to a website marketing outfit.Bill

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Pete,

    I want to slow the flow, change the on/off set-point, and maybe add an accumulator. I see that Shurflo sells an accumulator. Well, maybe a Shurflo distributor that I surfed accross does.

    The motor is dc. Reducing the voltage will slow it down. I can do that with a power resistor, rheostat, or dc drive. The current sensing on/off switch is something to deal with.

    Somebody is doing this for some application. The carpet cleaners are using these pumpmotors also.

    I would rather not invest my time in money in something that somebody else is already doing and would share with me. I do however enjoy building a solution to a problem.

    Bill

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Rich,

    I understand the first paragraph. Just curious, what language was that for the second?

    I sense that having a firm grasp of the interaction of the chems and stains that we're using is gonna be pretty important (oops, comedy doesn't transmit well in this medium), so I need to ask a few things.

    What would a finish that is failing due to poor or omitted nuetralizing look like?

    How fast might a stain begin to fail?

    Do I understand you correctly in that the caustic cleaning agent will go after the stain? What does it do to it?

    I think of three, maybe four, different wood cleaning agents, bleach, Percarb, a Percarb with other agents like EFC-38 (I guess each of those added chems is an agent), and Sodium Hydroxide. Is each caustic enough to require nuetralizing?

    Shane, do you nuetralize da bleach?

    Am I spelling nuetralize correctly?

    Bill

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Rick,

    The wood is PTP.

    I cleaned with EFC-38, then bleach.

    As I recall, I applied Oxalic after the 38.

    I don't think that I would be able to state with any kind of accuracy how much material I put on. I believe I put the first layer on about as heavy as the wood would allow and most likely did the same with the second. I did not allow puddles.

    The deck gets a lot of sun.

    I have a moisture meter and while I do not recall measuring the wood, I do not think that applying stain to wet wood would be a mistake that I would make. Lot of wood in that last sentence.

    About parafinic oils;

    Do parafinic oils contain parafin? Isn't this wax? Isn't wax difficult to coat with good adhesion?

    Do most 'Woodies' use parafinic oils exclusively?

    I see that Wood Defender offers a semi-transparent fence stain, but not a semi-transparent deck stain. What could the limitations be?

    Thanks,

    Bill

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  20. Posted · Report reply

    Last summer I attempted to restore my deck. I write attempted because the results are unacceptable. The color is uneven.

    In the begining.... the deck was in terrible shape, UV damage, dry, and cracked. I replaced a lot of wood. I got it washed pretty well, removing dead wood, and learning to use the Osbourne brush. So far, pretty good. I'm ready for the Ready Seal Lt. Brown. I apply two layers as instructed to less then spectacular results; some of the wood is near black, some is brown as expected, and the new wood is another brown. I understand why the new and old wood would absorb different amounts of stain. And I understand that being a painter and all, that I would have challenges with exterior wood.

    None-the-less, I need to learn a few things from this.

    1. Is very UV damaged wood a poor application for a transparent stain?

    2. When I need to replace wood, should I look for something other than a transparent stain.

    3. Can anything be done with the existing stain to even the color?

    TIA,

    And Happy Easter,

    Bill

  23. Posted · Report reply

    I need a little help.

    When I expect an image or a video I get this little box with a red x in it, in the upper left hand of the space in which I expect the picture or video. I've been shutting down security, but nothing is changing. A little direction would sure be appreciated.

    TIA,

    Bill

  25. Posted · Report reply

    I tried a number of different solutions. The surfaces with the least fuzz were treated with either simple Percarb or EFS-38. I used a 25 tip and was pretty aggressive, knocking the dead stuff off. I got in trouble with the HD-80, CPR, and some pretty hot bleach.

    A second problem is that the fence is a shadow box. Had I been working on a simpler design, I could have buffed the Percarb and -38 treated surfaces and used RS. My test spot with RS looked pretty good, looking past the fuzz.

    In summary, I think that my problem was solutions that were too hot for my application, not too much pressure.

    A process that I did not try that someone, maybe Jarrod, posted was prewetting the wood before application of the cleaners. Could someone elaborate on this?

    I appreciate all the input from everyone on this. Even a phone call with Shane. Real professional group here.

    Never felt this good about having a problem with a job.

    Bill

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