Christopher

I agree with you guy, sometimes people want help and will listen, sometimes they don't and end up listening to the wrong people. O Well. I have had good luck with the 1/2" hose I got but in the beginning I was hand-coiling it up on the concrete or asphalt, this is 165' of 1/2" hose. I eventually took another hose off a hose reel and put the 1/2" hose onto the reel. It does take up more room than the 3/8" hose and is a lot heavier. I have always used 3/8" hose until the year before last and used up to 600' of the 3/8" hose on most jobs, that Hotsy 5.6gpm 3000psi hot water machine lasted 7 years until the first set of packings needed to be replaced. Last year on an apartment complex I used 1250' of pressure hose since we could not get close to the building with the trucks and trailers and had to do what we could to get the job done for washing the buildings, stairs, and concrete hallways and breezeways. No problem with my pump running that much hose or the 8gpm machine running the same amount of pressure hose.

It really depends on the type of work you will be doing. 150' is good for commercial cleaning, 200' is better for larger areas so less moving the truck/trailer. I use 200' of hose on the hose reel (I took off the 300' hose reel because it was tearing the metal off the trailer with the bumpy roads here) but I still have it and will install it on the new, stronger trailer. 200' is enough to do most house washing but 25% of the time I have to add another 50' or 100' or both to the 200' hose as some of these houses have a big yard in front and sometimes you need 75' to 100' just to reach the house from the street (some of these driveways are too narrow or curved too sharp to get the truck and trailer into them) so I have to run the hose from out at the street then wrap around the house one way then pull the hose back and go the other way. Running the 3/8" hose will be good for a lot of cleaning jobs but for the large concrete work I will use the 1/2" hose as it has less of a pressure drop but for house washing, it is not an issue as you reduce the pressure to downstream anyway. For 100' of 3/8" hose you lose 300psi with 8gpm, for 100' of 1/2" hose and 8gpm the pressure loss is only 45psi. You need to decide what kind of work you will be doing and set up your rig for that kind of work as all the opinions in the world don't matter too much if they don't relate to the type of work you will be doing. I keep an extra 50' and 100' hose on the trailer all the time for most house washing jobs because it is easier to have it on the trailer then to move it on/off all the time. What kind of work are you doing or going to do? This will help you determine your rig setup. Are you trying to make this fit into a truck or trailer or van? I have not seen a storage tote at Home Depot that would work good for a buffer tank unless they have new larger totes. I have a 45 or 50 gallon tote for other purposes and they are not a good idea as the sun will oxidize the plastic and it will start cracking, something sliding against it can crack/break it and due to the size and design, you might cavitate the pump easily if the water level gets too low. With these storage totes, how do you know how much water is in it since the larger totes are not clear? This is not a good idea, stop listening to people out there that are not in the business, don't have a clue and don't know about tanks. Tell us more about what you are wanting to do, what kind of work you want to do and what kind of rig you want to build and you will get a lot of good help here. Don't just go out and start buying things based on what is popular or because so and so said so.

I have a hannay electric hose reel that has always been outside, in the rain and in the sun and has held up great, especially since I bought it used about 4 or 5 years ago. The hannay brand is about the best there is out there whether electric or with the handle, their quality is great and it is a great product. There are other brands out there like Cox that offer electric but I have not owned that brand. Hannay is a little bit more expensive for the manual reel and a lot more expensive for the electric when compared to other brands but I know some guys that have the manual versions for over 15 years and just the regular maintenance replacement items like swivels that need to be changed out like on all other brands but no serious issues like frame integrity over that time period. I have purchased the cheap hose reels from the discount suppliers that are made in china and within a couple months the paint is flaking off, the locking-pin holes get worn out and get large so the reel moves more and more and the locking pin gets stuck in the sleeve due to rust. The brass swivels don't last long and need to be replaced as the rebuild kits for the cheap swivels don't always match up or are hard to find or the rebuilds don't last long. The bottom line is you get what you pay for. Good luck.

Something else to think about is pressure loss. With 8gpm running through a 3/8" pressure hose you will lose about 300psi for every 100' of hose. When you go up to 1/2" pressure hose the loss is about 65psi. When using 10gpm and 3/8" pressure hose the loss is about 350psi for every 100' of hose. If you use the 1/2" pressure hose the loss is about 100psi per 100'. When I use my 8gpm machine I like to use my 1/2" hose as it does make a difference in cleaning with the surface cleaner as more pressure hits the surface instead of being lost due to internal hose resistance. For house washing I just use the 3/8" hose since I am downstreaming and softwashing, I don't need pressure and with the 1540 or 0040 nozzles it is great flow for washing and rinsing up high. Here is the Dultmeier pressure loss chart to take a look at: http://www.dultmeier.com/pdfs/tech-library/02Water8.pdf

If any experienced contractor has the regular requirements like experience, hot water, degreasing capabilities, etc.... I have a lead. Pm me or respond here and I will forward the info to you. Thanks.

It is about time to renew insurance on the business and equipment but found out that I have depreciated value on the trailer and equipment. I have insurance through Nationwide. I was told that they can only offer the depreciated value, not replacement value so I will be looking for replacement value insurance. Do any of you have replacement value insurance on the inland marine policy, if so, who do you have insurance with? Thanks.

Next time you see a great deal on a water jet Tony and you don't want it, let me know, I would like to get one to try them out.

How's it coming along Adrian? Are the people out there realizing what a great value it is? Are the contractors out there figuring out how much time and effort it will save them besides helping to control chemical usage?

Before you do anything else and possibly add more wear to your packings, go and re-read what all of us have told you to do and get it done. If you have any problems then post them. Not changing this or not changing that is only wasting time, causing aggravation and has you continuously asking more questions. Tear all that junk off the pump and plumb it like we all told you to do and be done with it. You will be glad you did. The bottom ports of the pump is the inlet, the top ports of the pump are the outlet. In at the bottom from filter from tank, out to unloader with the bypass line to the tank, not back into the pump. Use Brass or plastic fittings on the pump head, not galvanized or regular metal as they will start rusting tomorrow. Let us know how happy you are when you get this all done.

Is that the unloader bypass tying into the suction at the "T" or "cross"? If you have a tank, I would only supply from the tank, have the pump bypass going into the top of the water tank. Something to think about, when you connect a garden hose for a supply, there will always be air in the garden hose so you will be forever putting some air into the system causing a little bit of cavitation and over time it might affect your pump like it did now. Run larger diameter supply hose from the tank, like 1". It looks like you have 5/8" hose or maybe even 1/2" hose supplying the pump. Listen to Russ, that hose is no good, get a better and larger diameter hose supply line from the tank to the pump. Do you empty your tank at the end of jobs or when you get on the road to cut back on weight? If so I would put a block valve right at the tank on the line to the pump and block it before you drain the tank otherwise when you drain the tank or get it very low you are getting air into the system all the time. Block in the valve and empty the tank, when you are ready to work and filling the tank, after it is about 1/3 or 1/2 full then open the supply valve and you won't get air into the line. I do this when I travel out of town for work every other week to cut on excess weight on the trailer.

Get some spare injectors and kits, just part of the business. I have had better luck with the General Hi Draw and Allison Super Suds Sucker injectors, some cost more but will work when you want to use them.

If you don't get a reply from Jerry at Sirocco, Russ J. at Southside Equipment or Paul K. then I would give them a call, they might have a good answer for you. They read the bbs's a lot but they are out working and sometimes don't read all the posts out there. Let us know what you found out. I have similar situations, sometimes both residential and commercial locations have good, ok or very slow water supply. Sometimes while bidding you forget to check the water supply but I do make sure that they have some spigots on the house but I am getting better at actually checking the flow on them. I have had to run 2 supply hoses to run the 5.5gpm machine as the flow looked good initially but I guess someone was in the shower, someone was washing clothes and someone was doing dishes at the same time so the water supply basically almost stopped so I got out another supply hose and it did a little better but I still had to shut down. You cannot forsee all these happening at the same time but it does happen. I have also experienced the same thing on commercial locations also but I have also had spigots at commercial locations that would supply enough water for both the 5.5 and the 8gpm machines with one supply hose so you just never know. I keep extra supply hose on the trailer all the time just in case. These situations happen in both older neighborhoods and new neighborhoods so you just never know.

I was looking into this a year or so ago and there are many companies selling the equipment and full truck-rigs that you drive like a trash truck or build the system into a truck or on a trailer. Being realistic, you would need helpers getting the cans to be highly productive and that is if and only if many signed up for this service. The actual cleaning is quick but moving the truck/trailer as you go or having the helpers get the cans and trying to remember where they go (most do not have house numbers on them, just serial numbers) so you have some things that will slow your numbers down to a crawl. Say you only have a few houses on the list from that street. Most people around here keep the cans out of sight (back yard, fenced in area, etc....) so if the gates are locked, now you have to knock on doors and get them to open the gate if they are even home at all so now some more houses drop off the list for cleaning, etc..... The best way that I found is you would follow the trash trucks on their route on that day and clean them then so you have the best chance of getting a lot done quickly. I have asked lots of friends, family, customers, etc.... and some thought it was a good idea but most said they would not pay for the service so I did not pursue it. It seems like it does good in the larger cities that have multiple trash companies but smaller cities with one or two trash companies it would not work that good unless everyone signs up for the service. Good luck if you try it out.

Looks like a good system Adrian. Another good video.

Looks like a great product Adrian!

That sounds like a great class David. What specifically did they mention about injectors? I have them go out and it is hard to tell if it is the ball or o-ring as the ball sticks sometimes but in most cases the spring looks good.

I have not looked but it would be nice if there was a box or drum that would hold like 8 or more of the filter socks so you open the lid and pull them out to replace/wash and then close it and get back to work. This way you would have a lot more capacity for fine filtering before shutting down, this would be after the larger particle filtering. The same thing for smaller micron filters to try to help get rid of the silt in case you wanted to re-use the water, if you could get the soap out by other method than floc.

Great info and pictures John. PM or email me, I can give you some different ideas that might help you for some parts of your system. There are different types of flocculant out there that will take chemicals, soaps, etc.... out of the water and are about $5.00 per pound in US dollars but I am sure that flocculant is available all around the world, you just have to find the right one for your purpose. You can use something as simple as an IBC tote with mixer. You add the flocculant into the tank, mix it for about 10 minutes or so then you can let it settle or start pumping it through filter socks, say 100 to 20 micron then use polishing filters down to 5 micron if you want to run it back through the pressure washing pumps. There are companies out there that sell complete systems but I can see that you would have no problem making one, the hardest part would be finding the right flocculant. I know of a supplier here that has one that takes the soap out but I would see if you can find it there closer to you as the shipping will be expensive I am sure but if you cannot find it, let me know and I will give you his contact number, just email or pm me. How much did the blue cyclone separator cost? Do you have any other pictures of the system? Keep up the good work.

That sounds very interesting Nigel, good luck. It is amazing what you can find on the internet, even on youtube.

If you are serious about cleaning commercial properties, you will need hot water to clean up bubble gum and oily/greasy areas. Cold water will not remove gum. Sure you can try like all the hacks, lowballers and dumbazzes out there with the zero degree nozzles, turbo nozzles and trying all kinds of acids and end up damaging concrete but is that the image you want to portray to your customers? There are vendors out there that will sell you anything, lie to you to sell you stuff and make it sound that you can clean all types of commercial properties with only cold water when in reality they have never washed commercial properties and do not have a clue so they will lie to you to sell stuff. You don't need 8gpm, unless it is hot water. You can do fine with 5.5 gpm hot water and do a good job. There are a lot of guys out there with hot water 5.5gpm machines washing acres of concrete a month no problem. Once you get the bigger jobs or more accounts then it is time for a larger machine unless you can afford the 8gpm hot water rig right off the bat but another issue is water supply. Sometimes you will end up at a residential or commercial property that has low water flow and the 8gpm machine uses almost double the water as the 5.5gpm machine so you will have to slow down, wait or shut down for the water supply to catch up so you can start working again where the 5.5gpm machine you will have a better chance of not slowing down most of the time, it still happens but not as often. There will be a lot of opinions out there, think about what you want to do. Something also to think about is go out with someone and work with them to see the difference in machines, get prices for the machines and do what you can.

I seriously doubt it as the CWA clearly states no chemicals into the stormwater system. Until they re-write the CWA to include the "supposedly safe to empty into the storm water system" with the names and numbers, I would not believe that nonsense and lies. I would ask for it in writing where the EPA clearly states that the chemical in question can be dumped into the storm water system, that is about the point where they start back-peddling and come up with all kinds of lies and B.S. to cover their butts. I would ask where the research and studies were done that got the EPA's approval, where do they state "IN WRITING" that the EPA says you can dump this chemical into the storm water system and who you can call to verify (name of person in the EPA that approved for a chemical to be dumped into the storm water system) so you have a name on record. Sounds like more Salesman B.S. to sell you a product. Ask for proof.

I would contact a trailer manufacturer, not just the guys re-selling the trailers. Sometimes they can put the springs under the axles instead of on top and that would get you a lot of clearance but that alters the center of gravity a little bit and will affect the weight load distribution in the process. If you have a trailer built with your requirements, I am sure it can be done but I would not alter a trailer trying. I have seen some of those dumping trailers where they had really wide tires underneath and then one time I saw one with 3 axles but with small tires, I guess to help handle the load. They use those dumping trailers for hauling dirt, rock, roofing materials when torn off roofs, etc..... I am sure that they can build what you want, you just have to give them the dimensions and how much weight it will hold. I had a trailer made here in Texas for a certain weight load, length and width along with powder coating (nobody around here does the expoxy coating or bedliner stuff) so that will last a while until it is re-done or replaced and the price was not too bad. They also made it with 12" centers beams where most other companies make the trailers with 24" center beams. This will also have 5"support beams, full wrapped tongue (from the hitch all the way to the fenders),pipe top rail, brakes on 1 axle, stronger load rating tires, etc.... for just a little bit more money than a regular axle trailer. This is being built about 7.5 hours away but the local guys wanted more than $800 more so I will just spend some fuel and time driving up there on a day when work is slow and get it.

Are your machines belt drive? Direct Drive? Gear Drive? If they are belt drive or gear drive you can probably feed them by gravity from the tank but a lot of the direct drive pumps out there need a little bit of pressure to feed them like the garden hose from the house as they spin so fast it is hard to pull from a tank. You can easily add a bulkhead fitting to your tank, probably cost less than $25 to buy one if you do not have one already. If you have one, you might need another to supply the other machines. Curious why you are not gravity feeding the pumps?

That is a very nice setup, very well engineered.

Another funny one. hahahahaha