Pat Norman

Afters here in a little better light...

Hmm, if you could figure out a way to get though the high pressure end and to the surface cleaner, I bet that expensive swivel bearing and seal wouldn't last long!

For use when high and low pressures are needed. For example, spraying cleaning agents with low pressure through an injector valve and then cleaning with high pressure. High or low pressure operation is controlled by twisting the ST-54 side handle. Si

You can also drop your pressure to around 1000 psi using the proper oversize orifice and a fan tip. Also a lot of us use a caustic based cleaner such as F18 max or similar and then oxalic.

That is actually a good idea. I've done that then put the bags in my chem bucket with lids. I was putting 50 lb bags of TSP, Caustic and Oxalic in those plastic dog food barrels with screw on lids and moisture was still getting in and clumping up and hardening my chems. I did the baggies with the caustic since it is so hygroscopic and it was an easy way to handle it and just dump a bag in the fiver when ready. I am trying out now some of the buckets with screw on tops like pool chemicals come in. Seems like they may be the way to go.

Used 'em several times and after they quit drawing I took apart and noticed the orifice was real worn looking. Seems like they they need to use something hardened better. I get better use out of the fixed ones from Bob.

NO NO NO, please in the name of our profession do not do this! Mine with its' current nozzles would destroy a deck. You want to use the proper chems to do such a good job cleaning that you can use a wide fan 40 degree nozzle with a large enough orifice that your pressure will drop to around 1000 psi and keep your nozzle about 6 or 8 inches from the wood. When you start, start at one end of a board, hold the trigger gun open the whole time and walk the whole board holding the tip at the same angle and distance. Otherwise you will create wand marks in the wood. Do your research before starting on wood. Here is one good stripper you can try, remember you'll also need to neutralize/brighten. The original F-18 Max works well to remove oil based sealers with the least amount furring and darkening of wood. Also works great on concrete! Buy 1 extra box and save $10.00 Buy 2 and save $20.00 - CHEMICALS HOUSE WASH / GUTTER / WOOD CARE / MULTI- Use F-8 to neutralize & brighten wood after the use of alkaline based strippers & cleaners. It can also be used to remove mild rust stains from concrete, vinyl siding and others surfaces caused by irrigation. F-8 is sold in 10 lb packages. - CHEMICAL

I love this nozzle, just don't use hot water with it! http://www.pressuretek.com/hilowvano.html drill out center to 7/32. Also a 2.3 injector will not draw use a 2.1 with your setup. I have good luck with this gun... Comfort technology designed “easy-pull trigger” and comfortable grip provide ease when working long hours. If you have extreme abuse applications, the ST-2305 is up for the challenge with it's handle constructed of impact resistant plastic. - TRIGGER and it is easy to rebuild.

If you are having trouble with downstreaming, here are some tips you will need for an 8 gpm pump. 1) Get a good trigger gun rated for >11 gpm. 2) If you are using over 50' hose (looks like about 200' on your reel) use the 2.1mm injector which is rated for a lower gpm. 3) Use a #40 or larger soap nozzle or use a hi /low variable like I do but drill it out to 7/32". Keep several new injectors for backup, they are real time savers and money makers. Set the X jet aside for emergencies or instances where you need really high concentrations. Also like Guy said X-jetting ain't soft washing! I like to use my X jet nozzle when I am rinsing metal buildings.

Too strong and you start risking replacing shrubs, burning grass also some surfaces can be damaged. Why use more than necessary? Why upset a customer? Are you using store bought or 12.5%?

If you are using 12.5% bleach, it is just overkill. It may be necessary with store bought bleach for brick, but add some soap!

Here it is short and simple. wet shrubs, One five gallon bucket. two gallons 12.5% sodium hypochlorite, 1-1/2 cups simple cherry, a few squirts of Dawn, fill with water and downstream using as fanned a tip as will reach what you are spraying. Wait ten minutes and start rinsing ( I usually rinse with low pressure too) rinse shrubs too again. move to next side and repeat. collect check and go on.

To some degree that is true, but off a fire hydrant is one thing. Off a pressure washer you are going to hit diminishing returns real quick because the pump is running at a fixed / governed speed and is only going to pump so much water out the 3/8 outlet from the pump.

Good looking rigs Guy! You still just washing part time and running two rigs?

Thanks Ron, that's interesting. Always learning something new from you. Thanks.

Hey Ron, I've been intrigued by your comment below. Please explain more about the use and purpose of baking soda. Are you talking about soda blasting for paint removal or using soda as a washing detergent?

If it is the "green non slip coated" surface you'll kill it with the surface cleaner. Most just use a very strong housewash mix to kill the mildew and light "fanned out" rinse.

Oxalic acid.

I did a rental home last week off my 525 gallon tank with water from the owners house. It was a pretty large one story. Used about 275 gallons. That was with my 8gpm machine.

What Beth said. If it is cooler out and I have a really heavily mildewed vinyl or painted wood house I'll run about 115 degrees and it definitely helps speed up the SH!

I've cleaned my grill numerous times. I soaked the porcelain covered grates in plastic tub with a caustic soda solution and downstreamed caustic all over and in the grill. then rinsed. Cleaned up nice and easy.

Shawn, Oxalic acid, two cups per fiver and brush it on. Iron out and F-8 are both oxalic acid products I think if you cannot find bulk oxalic. Try your local chemical suppliers.

Are you near a Univar distributor? Google it. Try downstreaming it, works for me add a soap or surfactant for best results. edit oops. Was thinking caustic.....don't add anything to oxalic!

You don't need hot water for that! GPM is your friend ! Only in cold weather and stubborn green stuff on the side do I turn my burner on to about 115* just to help the SH work a little better. With my 8 gpm setup 2 hours max, I don't see any covered porches that slows down a little bit.

First use an absorber like Oil Dri or even sand or Tide. Let it sit a few days and sweep off. Then try a caustic based cleaner like greased lighting. Sometimes dirty oil will not completely come up but over time will fade.