svp07

A regular QC nozzle....the fan shape it gives the water when sprayed.

Yes, the M5 has no close range extra nozzle, just turn the tip and it goes from jet to fan. As soon as I heard about it I bought it and it has been extremely versatile. Just be careful when injecting acids the 2 metal strips that squeeze the jet into a fan may not hold up under constain acid use. It is beautiful for house washing and I have also used it to do wood; drops my pressure to around 500 psi and I can vary the cleaning path.

Have fun Carlos, My aunt has a place up in Kokee State Park on Kaui, it is amazing up there at 4500 ft. At night you can see the ring of the Milkyway.

Thanks Barry, That helps a lot. I see it is an alkaline foamer...any problems with using this in a house wash brew or any problems with material damage on a house (aluminum, glass, vinyl, steel, etc.)?

I bought foamer from Hotsy last year. A little expensive at $120 for 5 gallons super concentrate. Anyone have a cheap source for foamer?

I have not used a turbo on painted wood before or pianted shake siding...I think we know the outcome. I do have a turbo though.

Carlos, I am interested in seeing you commercial contract if you don't mind. Maybe you want to post it in the Forms sections for everyone to see...if not drop me an email please: svp07@optonline.net Thanks.

Scott, If you get this how much citraclean are you using per 5 gal. I did not understand your mix. I have been using the following per 5 gal. bucket: 1 gal 10%, 1/2 citraclean, 1 cup foam, the rest water. X-jetting with no proportioner I see the mildew melt away from green to white, even on bad houses.

Ryan, I read your post on paint prep and agree that it can be a pain in the ass. I did a paint prep last year, the paint was almost falling off the shake siding. I quoted him 550 and busted my ass all day. I did not even plan for all the paint chips flying around. He said he would take care of of the clean up and I told him he got a deal on the paint prep. If I do another one of these my price is double right off the bat. You basically have to wash the house twice. First time to remove all the loose paint at 2000 psi and then a second time to kill all the mold and mildew. I have done other paint preps since then for my father, I tell him to prep first by removing all the loose paint by scrapping and sanding and then I come in and wash. It works a lot better and I am thinking about contracting with some painters to do their house washes for them...I hear some hate the water. I quote a guy $1000 for a paint prep last summer for this spring...let's see if he calls.

Carolina, What are you using the NMD80 for on new brick...what are you cleaning off? Got any before and after pics? I just ordered the Safe Restore test kit from Eacochem and can't wait to try it out; also ordered their paint remover, any experience with it?

I think i used the same brass piece you are talking about. I used 2 to convert the threading of a short lance I had. I have not had any problems at 3500 psi and 4.5 gpm. I had the same thinking as you...they looked pretty sturdy and the ones online and in the catalogs looked pretty similar. I think if something did happen it would be with the threading first. Let's see if anyone else chimes in on this....

I was going to post this under the Estimate Poll, but thought it might get lost there. I took some information from Dale's estimating sheet that was uploaded in a previous post, so give him some credit also. I just rewrote and added to them from the really simple one I had last year. Thought it might help some and maybe get some feedback on it if any changes should be made. *It's a WORD document. 1a New Est. Sheet.doc

I use mine to edge lawns.

As I have stated before I started my PW company last spring part time, I teach and also coach, and no I am not a low-baller. I think about the future and possible going full time but do not know if it is worth it. I have a small trailer for all my equipment, a cold water unit 4.5/3500, and a 20" surface cleaner. I only do residential right now, but think about commercial work, however, I do not have water recovery or recycling equipment. What type of commercial work does one start with when making the move? What other work can be done with out water recovery/recycling equip.? I am also curious if anyone does apartment complexes and the price/ft. you charge (vinyl siding); what is the differnce if it is brick? Thanks for the feedback.

I will be entering into my second year of power washing as soon as the nights stop dropping below freezing. Last year I delt with coiling all my hoses by hand and hanging them in my trailer. I have a small trailer I made last year that I plan on posting pics of this season; may help some other newbies. I do not have much room left in my trailer, but I would like to squeeze a portable hose reel set up into it. I am tired of coiling hoses! I use a cold water rig and hook up to owners water. Then rapid reel portable hose reel is out of the question due to size. I will list/describe what I am thinking about doing and I would appreciate your feedback. I am looking to purchase a small PW frame from Barens: http://www.barens.com/cgi-bin/webcat?item=6345 and then attaching this hose reel: http://shop.doitrightonline.com/item.asp?pid=73 by bolting it to the frame. I need to get the demensions of the frame and reel I guess to make sure it fits. Then if there was room on the handle I was thinking about mounting a feed line hose reel like this one: http://www.rewci.com/la15ca5hacah.html. Thanks for your help. If anyone has a solution for a compact portable hose reel system I would appreciate the input.

I like the wagon idea, however the room I am dealing with is a vertical space. I am looking at using and mounting the Quick reels on the hand truck. As far as stability, I realize this is an issue....I could use two outrigger supports that fold out from the lip if I leave it standing or I can lay it down. I am just making it more convenient for myself to move and wind-up the hoses and have them in a centralized location. Once built I think it will look nice and be functional. I need to make the most out of what I have and do agree with the knowledge able and professional attitude, that will win them over.

Craig, Thanks for the reply and I do relaize the importance of recoevery. Do you see any form/builldings/etc. that would not need recovery? there is a huge apartment complex by me that is almost all brick and green with mildew. They have grass all the way around them. What is the going rate per foot for 2 story apartment complexes? I have gotten about 2.50/ft. for residential in my area including gutters. When you recover do you recycle it back to your supply tank?

I have just seen a few pics on here of the surflow set-up on a hand truck and think I will go that route. Yes my trailer is limiting me but so is my vehicle; hoping this will change in about 2 seasons. I am making the most out of what I have vehicle wise and try to go top quality with all equipment. I will post pics of my trailer later, but I need to find a hand truck with a 45" height or around there. I am planning to bolt the reels to the hand truck and have them stacked, high pressure hose on the botttom and my feed hose on top. I need to make a feed hose whip to my washer though. The pics of the surflow system look nice and gave me the idea; thanks who ever posted them.

I do remove my unit from my trailer and am trying to make a cart that has all my hoses together to pull around. I can not add any reel attachment to my machine due to how I built my trailer and I am dealing with a vertical space on my trailer that the unit would sit. I will post pics of my trailer when I dewinterize it; it is about 4wX4HX5L with a tilt up roof, ramp, and storage shelf came out pretty nice.

Go with the barn doors and build yourself a small ramp (or buy one) that you, one person, can move around. Hang it on the back of one of the doors; make it as narrow as the widest thing you plan to wheel on it and so it attaches securely to the trailer.

Ken, Did you get the job and what was your finally quote given your obstacles on the property?

Pressure Pro, Just a question on your time and price per house. Removal, cleaning, and reintallation of screens plus house wash and ext. gutters seems like a lot of work. Is it reflected in you price?

In my opinion yes, because it will make it more difficult to rinse the windows and make sure they come out streak free; I usually rinse the windows first and earlier than the rest of the siding. If you are rinsing through a screen pressure will be lost on the surface you are trying to clean and water seems to get caught up in the mesh. I just give them the option and warn them, some only care about general apperance others are more picky....and they can pay more in my opinion.

I consider "low" to be at about 500 psi, leaving the pump. That is what I get from my X-jet and just it during the whole washing process of a basic house; flow rate at about 4.5 gpm. The water is probably hitting the house at a lower pressure becasue I am really never up close to it with the nozzle. As for another tip...I apply my gutter cleaner and then apply my house wash right after. Gutter dwell time is about 2 minutes and them the application of my wash dilutes the gutter cleaner. After the house wash is applied I scrub/aggitate the gutters with a truck brush on an extention pole. By this time house wash has dwelled long enough and everything get rinsed.

I have given the home owner the option of removing the screens. I do not do it because I do not want to be liable for anything in the house. For me, I would tack on a pretty price to do the screen removal and reinstallation. I also price the cleaning of removed screens seperately, if they want them done. Removing the screens will allow the sill dirt to be washed away more easily and will allow you to clean and rinse the windows better. I have also seen houses with large removable storm picture windows on the exterior of the house, water and soap will get behind it so the option of removal is presented to the owner.