svp07

These are pics of a deck I has asked to restore. Today I went to do a test patch because there was a sealer still present on the verticals; even though the owner insisted there was nothing ever on the deck. The sealer came off with the EFC-38 and then I neutralized. However on most of the horizontal surfaces the green mildew is very thick. There are pics of a step I cleaned and the green is still present; another pic of an untouched step and also one of the rails. How do you get this green crap off so you can seal over it? I also tried some bleach and water that did not work to my liking.

I cleaned this blue stone walk a couple days ago. This black stuff will not come out and is only present where there is a higher amount of sun. I put down a bleach wash be for I cleaned with my surface cleaner and then went back with the wand at about 2000 psi. Anyone got some info?

Thanks Rod, I'll try some SH when I do the deck.

Paul B., What is your experience with sil-o-wet, if you have any? I have just started using it. It says it lasts 24-36 months and retards the growth of mildew and the bonding of dirt to the surface. Any luck with this and making artiliery mold come off houses any easier (not leaving that residual spot after the top is taken off)? I was also wondering if anyone ever applied it to an asphalt roof....maybe in conjunction with some pool algeacide? Any thoughts?

CCA...please explain? Moisture is a problem in and around his house. They go to Maine for the whole summer and they say that when they return their is always mold on their basement ceiling. I asphalt drive is also a pretty shade of green. The verdict is Strip it!

I thought about the spray bottle approach; is the oxalic metal friendly? I did not think it was, but to neutralize the caustic on the metal it will be alright...

Thanks Everett, Yes the deck has not been maintain, funny because these people live in Upper Saddle River...the houses are ridiculous in this town(!) and they are well-off. The while lot is covered with trees so there is a high moisture content in the air. I will strip and get some experience with that. I am just worried about the sliding door threshold, I quess just keep it rinsed. Should I try a test section? There are no inconspicuous areas that have the bad mildew.

Is cedar siding usually priced by the sq/ft like decks...and with the same price range as decks? I did a few searches and could not find anything.

Pic of deck so you can see the green.

First pic - reflection of the flash in the water droplets, pic was taken at a distance of 8 inches, +/-. I thought it might be stain also but the stuff comes off with the EFC-38. All that is left is the mildew. I am thinking that after a certain point mildew will start to grow something of a "root system" into the wood. I cleaned their flagstone walk and there is a type of green growth that still left a mark when 2000 psi was applied, bleach did nothing to this either. Anymore pressure and I would have been removing sections of stone. I will have to get pics of the other stain or growth on their walkway and upload it in another post...maybe someone can identify it.

Dwell time was about 20, also reapplied again, then sprinkled some on direct and used a brush. Should I use the HD-80, I bought a bucket but have not gotten in to it yet? Should I let it dwell for about 40...seems like I will have to reapply chem a lot to keep it wet?

Cleaned using EFC-38 then neutralized.

I cleaned a red wood deck that has full sun for about 7 hours with the chems sold here. I used the m5 x-jet which gives me 500 psi at the tip (the nozzle was also set to the fan pattern)...no furring.

The information we all need to know is how much pressure did you clean with? Are you reducing your PSI at the tip?

Paul, Thanks for that last post.

Insects usually fly....just a thought. Happy Cleaning.

Just curious as to what a deck like that brings in. Did you strip or just clean? What was the price/sq. ft.? Also what stain did you use, it looks nice?

In the surounding towns here in northern jersey there are people all the time draining their pools right into the gutter which then goes into the sewer system. How are they allowed to do this and should I be concerned with my own run off? Aren't the chems about the same if not worse in the pool water.

I did a search but could not find much as far as if Sikkens or Cabots is a better solid color stain; oil based. Does anyone have some information on this? I am thinking of going with the Sikkens.

Goes right where the rain goes.

Anything about performance in the field or durability?

I am going to clean a previously solid color stained deck with EFC and then apply another solid stain to the deck. It will be Cabot's acrylic redwood so I called Cabot to see if I would need to apply the citralic...they said no. Does anyone have a different opinion?

Thanks Rod, I guess it's play it by ear depending upon the wood, the amount of stain applied, and how it looks after the first coat.

Can I use EFC-38 and Citralic on Redwood? If so any special precautions? Thanks.

I think I am going to give them that est., we do a lot of work for these people so I am not bidding against anyone. I made it a range due to the stripping, there is stain on it from the previous owners; don't know what it is. It does not seem very thick but has turned the decking dark brown/blackish almost. I wanted to leave some room for a restrip if needed. Don't want the final bill to be shockingly high so I put a range, hoping it will be low....I have the HD-80 so i think it should come off, if it does not then I guess there is a change of plans.70' of rail w/ 3 2x2x40" per foot, 2 2x6" that make up the cap, 2x10" skirt, 6 4' steps, the rest decking, est. 1150 total sq. ft.