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CompletelyClean

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Posts posted by CompletelyClean

  1. Posted · Report reply

    How long should my burner keep heating my water? I have been doing a lot of flatwork inside auto repair shops. After about 3 hours of continuous cleaning with my Steel Eagle surface cleaner, my water gets cold for a looong time. I know there is an internal thermostat to cool down the burner but how long should it take before it heats up again? Would it help if I shut off the burner or the whole unit for a few minutes?

    You can REALLY notice the streaks in the concrete when the water suddenly turns cold, i.e. it isn't cleaning as well.

    Also, what are you guys using for fuel for your burners...diesel, kerosene, fuel oil? A PW'er mechanic told me that #1 fuel oil keeps the coils cleaner longer.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Well folks, the jury's back! I went to do a couple of test patches today on this nasty finish. I went armed with Remove-All's paint & varnish stripper (Methylene Chloride based) and my favorite sodium hydroxide based deck stripper. I still don't know what the finish was, but the Sod. Hyd. did just as good of a job as the Remove-All. Better, actually because it is WAAAY easier to apply. Needless to say, I now have another happy customer to add to my list. I REALLY felt good about the fact that 3 contractors had tried and failed to strip this deck before me. I KNOW I'll be getting a TON of referrals from this one!

    As Tony likes to say..."the proof is in the pudding". Thanks again for all your help, especially you, Tony. Your constant support is always appreciated Sensai!

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Well, I washed the house today but I didn't use the Housewash from Xterior. The house wasn't even that dirty (you gotta LOVE those customers!). I did use the Gutter Zap for th very first time today and let me just say....pphhbbbbttt!!!!

    Spray on, rinse off...my A$$! These gutters were NOT even that dirty. Last Nov 25th (5 months ago), I had installed the solid vinyl gutter guards with the drip edge that hangs over the gutter, minimizing the black streaks on this house. Consequently, the streaking was minimal, yet I sprayed on, let dwell for a couple of minutes, rinsed off ad saw a VERY SLIGHT difference. I mixed the GZ per the mfg. suggestions of 2 parts water to 1 part chemical. I was going to try Tony's suggestion of adding a little Sod. Hyd. and I didn't feel like mixing any more chems once I started the job, so I just grabbed the old brush and went at it. I was glad this is a 1 story ranch where the gutters are only about 12' high.

    If I've said it once, I've said it a thousand times...I do NOT believe there is a sray on, rinse off chem for white gutters with black streaks that TRULY clean the gutters. At least not in this part of the world.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Bryan,

    If you are going to use the xjet its 4lbs in a five gal bucket. MAKE sure you use your respirator. The fumes from the spray will gag you and its harmful too. Make sure people are not near you either including any employees if you have any.

    Thanks Dale.

    Also, I use the citric acid for brightening, as opposed to oxalic. I know it takes a wee bit longer to brighten but I feel it adds a few years to my lifespan over the ox. I will definitely use the safety gear, though.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks, Jack! THAT sure makes it simple, now doesn't it?!?! I'll be practicing that measuring method. 1 cup of powder to 1 gallon of water. Now why don't the manufacturers just do the same thing and put that on the label?

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Here we go with the weight vs. volume thing, again. I had a formula last year and darned if I can remember what it was or where it is now!

    I agree with Tony...E.S. should either put a scoop in the container or figure out what the volume needed is rather than the weight and tell people to use VOLUME measurements. We're not chemists and like Tony said about carrying around a scale...it's too cumbersome, not to mention ONE more expense that should not be needed.

    Does ANYBODY know what volume of EFC is needed per gallon of water? Same for HD80...

  18. Posted · Report reply

    I just read in Readers Digest that composite decks are one of the "new" products of the 21st century that are made of recycled plastics. As with ANY plastics...they WILL fade from the sun.

    Some friends of mine just asked me recetly about my opinion of composite vs. wood decking because they were about to have a deck built. I told them the truth about LESS maintenance on composite decks as opposed to wood decks, yet the cost of the composite deck built will likely be that of a wood deck with about 10 years of maintenance fees. Then I asked them a question. I asked them why they recently bought the beautiful mahogany office furniture for their home office, rather that a plastic one. They said it is classier and looks better. I said, "There's the answer to your original question!".

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Has anyone used any of the Defy products? I came across this stuff at the local PPG store and did some research online, as well. The products are made from SaverSystems in Richmond, IN. http://www.saversystems.com

    The stain (not called a sealer by this company) looks, smells, and reads like RS. They talk about it being a water-based proiduct that penetrates the wood and doesn't contain fungal-prone resins. Also, their maintenance is the same in that you can lightly wash when needed and apply a new coat over the existing coat. Their cleaners and strippers sound a lot like the ones most of us are currently using, too. One thing that turned me off at the PPG store, though, were the prices. There is an original stain and an epoxy fortified stain. The original sells for $129.95 per 5 gal. and the epoxy fortified is $149.75 per 5 gal. These are contractor rates, too! This is more expensive than Wood Tux and RS even if you have to pay shipping!

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Beth,

    I will have pics next week. Took the wife's Jeep and had my digital in MY truck (crap). Also, the homeowner doesn't know. He bought the house with the deck done like this.

    Tony,

    Thanks for that link. I'm wondering if I could rent that gadget from the local Rental-All place...problem is, the railings and spindles are messed up, too. Upon further reading on that post, I saw someone mention sandblasting. Now that's ANOTHER expense to egt into. What would it take to get outfitted with sandblasting equipment for my 5GPM, 3500 PSI, hot water unit??? Geeze!

    Maybe I'll try the Bix (or similar type) gel, like Rfitz suggests. The deck is rectangle in shape and only 2 feet off the ground. Easy access and notheing but pebbles underneath. The only concern I see is letting it dwell for a couple of HOURS and continuing to mist throughout...what a PAIN!

    By the way...the good news is that there are only patches of this crap left after a couple different PW'ers tried to do the job. I asked a lot of questions regarding these contractors and was able to gather that they A) didn't know their A$$ from a hole in the gound, and B) didn't have or weren't aware of the valuable resources like this board!

  25. Posted · Report reply

    I'm paying $1500/yr for 1 mil liability, 2 mil ag, and 20k in equip. This was the cheapest I could find 1 year ago. I was planning on doing some shopping, however maybe it's not worth it after reading the horror stories in this thread?

    I know one common denominator with some people paying really low insurance and others paying really high is the state in which they live. Mike Cappa has the best rate I've heard so far, however his company will not/cannot insure folks in MI.

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