PLD

Very odd, every day thousands of pool stores nationwide sell tens of thousands of gallons of CaHClO and NaCLO as an algecide. Acually, I quote "you can use chlorine bleach to treat a swimming pool or to treat drinking water. A gallon of bleach provides 1 part per million (PPM) of chlorine to 60,000 gallons (about 250,000 liters) of water. Typically, a pool is treated at a rate of 3 PPM, and drinking water is treated at anywhere from 0.2 PPM to 3 PPM depending on the level of contamination and the contact time. [snip] Chlorine is used in pools and drinking water because it is a great disinfectant. It is able to kill bacteria and algae, among other things. [snip] If you are worried about the chlorine in your water, all you have to do is let the water stand for a day or two in a loosely covered container in your refrigerator and the chlorine is eliminated." So, 1 gallon 6% NaHClO and 40k gallons of ground water = water less chlorinated than an pool and well within the acceptable limits for municipal drinking water. And that assumes that 90% of the bleach is not decomposed as it oxidizes ANY organic matter it encounters (like dirt or algae). Chemist1, you are either ignorant or you are a troll. In the case of the former, I would suggest that you could find a better way to educate yourself than to run into a room and insult a few hundred people with a few THOUSAND years combined experience. If the latter (which I strongly suspect) I can only ask that my fellow posters not feed the troll.

What makes me laugh are the ones from "Wells Frago"...

If you're thinking you have deja vu, don't fear. I pulled this from elsewhere so an not to hijack the thread. That said, I am running around town doing 99% resi's with a skid, a tandem axle trailer, and a 275 tote tank. Except for occasions when water volume is abysmal, I fill and dump the tank at each job. Wasted time, wasted water. I never thought twice about a float tank with my 4gpm (or actually until I found TGS). Since then, I have feared running dry and am very aware when tank water levels are neutral-> negative and it's more often that I would have anticipated. I know this is a hard one to answer from afar, but do you guys think I would be happy dropping the 275 and just going with a 30 gal float tank? Also, this idea is not just to ditch the bigger tank. I'm considering a trailer change, and no big tank plays into some of them. If a small tank is a no-go, so are some of the options. Here's what I am considering. Any thoughts you may have are welcomed. Option 1: Stay on my 6x14 open tandem, keep 275gal. Pro: No cost. Con: Would like enclosed trailer/ trailer out of my garage. Other: Need to move equip/tank to eliminate neg hitch weight when full Option 2: Stay on my 6x14 open tandem, drop 275gal for 30 gal. Pro: No cost. More room for "stuff" Con: Would like enclosed trailer/ trailer out of my garage. Trailer looks less professional with alot of "white space" Other: Need to move equip/tank to eliminate neg hitch weight when full Option 3: Drop the 275, use my 30 gal tank as a float, and put the whole thing in a 5x8 enclosed single axle. Pro: Advertising space, hide mess from customers. Cheap. Small trailer works better in tight cluster/planned neighborhoods. Trailer moves out of garage, and 6x14 is available for 2nd trailer which may be needed this summer if plans work out. Con: Lower max load, no ability to haul water in a pinch. Trailer requires mods for burner Other: Space planning is difficult as my skid controls and fuel inlets are on opposing sides of a 42"x42" skid Option 3: Keep the 275 and put the whole thing in a 6x10 enclosed tandem axle. Pro: Advertising space, hide mess from customers. 6x14 is available for 2nd trailer which may be needed this summer if plans work out. Con: Expensive. Loses 24sq.ft. of floor space. Trailer requires mods for burner Other: Space planning is difficult as my skid controls and fuel inlets are on opposing sides of a 42"x42" skid Option 4: Drop the trailer entirely and mount the skid and the 30 gal float in the bed of my work truck. Pro: Very low cost, very manuverable in tight spaces, no lost time hitching/unhitching. Can tow 525 gal on a trailer if needed. Functionally, I like this option best. Con: Work truck (white fleet) is not ugly, but does show some age. Truck really needs paint, rhino liner, and lettering to go standalone. Looks fine with trailer as profesional trailer detracts from minor flaws on work truck, but I will not run quotes in it. $ for professional look rehab >= $ trailer. Con 2: Dead truck = downtime. Equipment is not protected (back in the garage) Other: Concerned that I may be confused with a fly-by-nighter or a roll around in the back of a pickup..

I haven't every really struggled, but I do a number of senior/cluster planned communities and my truck/trailer often blocks three driveways (incl the customers)

Matt, Like you I am 98% residential, and carry water about 1% of the time. I like what you have done, it is very similar to what I was thinking. Can you send me some more pics of your truck? Also, is it difficult to drop a bed and add a work body? Its the bed that looks bad, the cab looks good and the drivetrain is solid. Philip

I got mine at Northern. No one has any thoughts on the no-trailer pickup washing machine?

Ditto. I paid $825 drive out for my 6x10 open trailer, and $1290 for my 5x8 enclosed w/ side door. Tote tanks can be found all over town for $75'ish.

I have typically bid high, but your restraunt example is a good one. I'll think more about telling the truth.

Kudo's to your wife. Anyone every take the little hose inside the toilet tank and put it under the lid right behind the sitter's back? When they flush, they get their back soaked!! Gotta be careful to position around the lid, but it's really funny done right.

All the blitz cans I have are vented. Take a close look at the cap and neck. The vent while sitting, and they vent thru the neck while pouring.

For those without expereince, read up on deep cycle vs. SLI (starting, lights, ignition) batteries. The latter are meant to dump huge amounts of power for a very brief period and be completely recharged immediately. Deep cycle batteries are meant to power loads (like a trolling motor or pump), be deep discharged, and then recharged as needed. Swapping types will generally work, but the batteries lifespan will be greatly shortened. You car battery is a SLI battery, I expect that the "power packs" are as well.

Rod, tell me more about your ratios (offline if you prefer). I too have used Power House (here at PowerHouse), and wasn't particularly excited about the results. But since you and others seem to have a very different result, perhaps it's the process. 16oz with 3.66 gal h20 and how much bleach? Is that 6% cut 2:1 with an xjet (i.e. 1.5%) or cut 1:5 downstream? As an altername, I've been using a local product called DewBrite at 40:1 and 0.8% bleach. Both of those measures are TTW and are fed into the line through an xjet at 15:1 mix ratio. Pete, Please feel free to jump in here. I like everything else I get from SunBrite, but I'm just not getting what I want from PowerHouse as I use it now. I am also very interested in hearing more about the citrus cleaner. Everyone else, Anyone know how to use the 50# box of emulsifier plus I inherited? I have contacted the espec and they either send me a catalog with very vauge directions or the phone person reads that to me. Just "add 2 gallons of product to 3 Gallons of Bleach". Then what?

My only concern is your marketing $. Year one, only I spent about $300/mo in markting and it was a rough year. Last year, I spent about $1k/mo and reaped about 8:1. This next year I plan to spend $2500/mo in the "active season"

Jeff, Stay at it and force yourself into uncomfortable speaking situations. Public is definitely a learned skill. When I was elected student body prez in college, I wasn't comfortable commanding a room of 12. Less than a year later, I had to address crowds of many hundreds regularly and on one occassion about 8-10,000. It's been 20 years since then, and I'd probably have to work myself back up address a group of 10k.

I agree with Larry. That said, here's my $0.02; Most 2990# trailers are actually 3500#. They must under rate to avoid installing trailer brakes. I started with a 6x10 "2990" pounder and pulled a 300# roll around, and 300gal tank, and a gaggle of 15 gals for a year. It worked well for me, and since it was an open trailer I only paid $825 new. I also know a PW'er that pulls a 275 on a 4x4 1000# trailer.

Amen! I have two diverse ventures (3 if you count the rental house), and I can tell you that the overhead more than doubles the effort required. Two sets of books, two sets of inventory, two sets of employees, THREE tax returns... Went down this road because business #1 was significant, but insufficient to support my income, and the growth curve had reached the point where ROI (time/effort) was becoming negatively exponential.

With a proper counterbalance and rubber wheels, the device would hold itself against the wall under moderate wind conditions. Try a counterweight equal to the weight of the device coming off the topmost rail at a 45^ upward angle.

Net? If so, that's great. If you mean gross, I concur. We run 4-700 gross/day with about 500/day being the average.

My non-scientific guess-o-meter says that will take about 5hp... You could probably run 5gpm @ 2500 psi with that 13hp engine.

I disagree. Most of my fishers are over-informed. They are trying to figure out how to price per square, per lin, etc and have something in mind already. A big tipoff for me is when you ask someone how many square feet their driveway is and they confidently respond "1700". A homeowner says "Ummm About 1700 I think. Does that sound average?" or something similar. If I am suspicious, I fall back on coming to give a quote. Many won't even give a phone number. 95% of the time they do not want me at their house. And If I'm positive, I want them home to discuss it. That gets the rest.

Sweet. I'll call you tomorrow.

BTW, should you need it in a pinch Brake Parts Cleaner kills black widows (and wasps) in seconds. I like it because it's a thin solvent that's specifically designed for no residue. That makes it ideal for killing carpenter bees. Philip

Forget the money. It may or may not be a scam, but it's a terrible idea for your website. I'll say this once loud and clear: ** Avoid any company that offers to submit your site to search engines (pay or free) ** 1. You can submit your own site for free at every reputable search engine. Just go to the site and look for the link. All they want is a URL, they will figure the rest out. 2. Automated submissions set off "garbage" flags at many SE's. 3. Repeat submissions (auto or manual) will get you blackballed. 4. If you have a site, and that site appears as a link on any other cataloged site you will be found. If that site is in your tagline here, you will get found as TGS is reasonable well regarded by google. 5. One manual submission you should definitely make is to dmoz.org

Cmon guys, it's just a little red tail!

My pest control guy says that the only thing that will effectively kill spiders is a size 10 (shoe). According to him, the walk so high and on such a little "footprint" that they don't absorb enough chems to die. We get regular treatments, and spiders still plague our house.