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PLD

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Posts posted by PLD


  1. This thread started in Resi-PW but I wanted to explore it further so I moved it here:

    My sister (a pro acctountant) does my taxes each year but I've been doing a horrible job of bookeeping myself. She and I both dread tax time each year. I have three seperate businesses and need to get someone else to handle it. BUT, I'm so small that I cannot afford to hire an in house record manager/bookeeper. How much/month is typical if I want someone else to handle all the paperwork/ records management but writing checks/making deposits?

    Perhaps an answer requires a little more explanation.

    For my PW business

    I want to give them hand written estimates, notices of completion, deposits and check registers. In return, I want a monthly financial reports, est'd taxes due, and a customer DB for mailing purposes. I 1099 my employee, so that's not a big issue.

    For my online business

    I get 10-15 transactions/day. They get posted to the processor who either funds them (visa/mc) or sends them to another processor (Disc and amex). For every batch submitted (~3x/week), three deposits (less xaction costs) are made to my account. Each batch needs to be audited to make sure that all funds are accounted for.

    For my rental property

    there are no more than a 1/2 dozen transactions per year. I just want financial reports and tax work.

    It gets more fun: I have three seperate bank accounts, but none of the three businesses are substantial enough at this time to fully support me (PW and online are both seasonal). So, it is not uncommon to see irregular draws and/or xfers from the accounts to balance things out. For example, nov-feb the online biz pays for the truck, office, and cell phone. Mar-Oct, PW does. Salary to me varies by week and may come from any and/or all of the businesses.

    Now that I have spilled my guts, if anyone can give me a decent idea of what to expect to pay I would appreciate it. I would say that it takes 4-6 hours per week, but that's what it takes me. I suspect that an organized person who does this alot may get it done in just an hour or two. I say that for two reasons. One, because I do it monthly and there are stacks and stacks to organize, file, then deal with. And two, I tend to save everything because I don't know what not to keep.

    Why not hire my sister? She's already buried with job and kids. If I wasn't her brother, she'd probably tell me to find someone else to do the taxes.


  2. Hey Jesse, You say for $15.20 you can have a man? Does the $15.20 cover the $10 for him or is that over and above that yet? Thats per hr. right? How do you get hooked up with them?

    I assume that it includes it. Here in the southeast, temp agencies get a fee equal to 50% of the hourly wage. So, $10/hr man = ~$15/hr to the agency. And it's become PC here to call it "staff leasing"


  3. I'm glad I'm not the only nut in the fruitcake! I've got an air compressor and could rig something up. Also, I have watched it alot at ski resorts and they just use a ring of 1/4megs around the circumference of a bid fan. Perhaps I could build something up like that.


  4. Philip on the 13 hp honda they don't have fuel pumps and are gravity fed on the larger motors they have diaphram fuel pumps.Unless you mount it above motor it won't work.I have a 23 hp Vanguard and the motor alone burns 3gl/hr at 3600 rpm under full load.I have an sdc burner which has I think 3.0 or a 3.25 gl/hr fuel nozzle.I hope this helps.

    It does, thank you. I am a little confused as to why it burns so much fuel. You are a little under 2x the power output but draw almost 6x the fuel.

    As for the tank, there must be a simple solution. My push mower has it's tank under the carb and employs a little primer bulb. My chainsaw and weedeater both have under belly tanks and they draw upwards as well.


  5. Anyone ever use their machine to make snow in the winter? I guess making more snow would seem insane for many of you guys, but for those of us down here where 1/2" closes the schools and empties the grocery it seems like fun.

    I've threated to do it for several years, but when it's below freezing outside the idea of hauling out the rig and firing it up for a "test" seems like a little too much work. On the other hand, if it does work I'll gladly tie the extension wand to a tree and let it run all night! Imagine the surprise when everyone makes up and the Doolittle residence has a giant pile of snow waiting to be pounced in and rolled into snowballs


  6. I have a 4gal cold machine with a 1.5 gal fuel tank mounted atop. It was mobile, but is now pretty much permanently mounted. Anyway, lifting the gas can and refilling every few hours ia a pain. I'd like to mount a 10gal can on the deck (about 16in below) and plumb it to the carb. Anyone know any gotcha's or must do's for this one?

    Also, I have been looking at hot skids and I'm noticing fuel consumption rates around 4gal/hr. I'm presently using only 1.5gal every 3.5hrs on my 13hp 4 gal machine. 4gpm sounds awfully high for an 16-20hp engine. Does 4gpm include burner fuel as well?


  7. Engines are based upon algorythms, and different ones will have different algorythms.

    The most common element, is that they will all look for how many times a word appears in a document (hit density). Some may look for the proximity of the word to other words in your search as well. (proximity searching)

    And don't forget that keyword density is just that, a measure of the number of times a keyword appears relative to the other words on the page. To high of a ratio, and you get penalized. Too low of a ratio, and you get outranked by others that are higher than you, but lower than the threshold for "keyword spamming".

    As for optimizing for various engines, I recommend against putting that much effort into it. Google has over 80% of the search volume now. MANY of the 3rd part engines just buy their SERP's from google directly. And, anything optimized for google also will rank well with the others. Sure, you may not bet the best optimized page at Kandoodle but if you were you wouldn't be best with Google (remember, 80%....)

    Here's a site that usually has good articles on getting to the top of the engines. http://searchenginewatch.com/

    FWIW, my online store (www.OdorDestroyer.com) gets around 35,000 unique visitors each month and around 153,000 page views/month.

    :lgbounces


  8. Hydrochloric acid is the proper term for muriatic. The only time we'll use plain ole muriatic acid is to etch concrete prior to staining it. My personal philosophy is that the chemical mixtures that actual chemists mix have a wonderful purpose - they all have the right amount of all of the ingredients to make a product funtion as it should PLUS they come with instructions, which is a monumental help if you were to ever have a problem or failure.

    Can you recommend a better product than xjetted 33% muriatic to remove ground in red clay stains from new construction concrete drives? All I've had success with is a light spritz through the xjet followed by a surface cleaning. muratic is expensive and difficult to handle. Suitable alternatives are welcome.

    P.S. Our Northern friends need not reply. Your reddish dirt is not red clay by a _large_ margin. Unless you have lived down here and experienced red clay stains in all their orange glory, you can't possibly understand. :) Seriously though, I'd rather deal with red kool-aid on white carpet than red clay stains...


  9. Can you help me with a problem I recently had? I got an x jet, and used it for the first time on vinyl siding. On one side of the house (the side I started on), swirl-type streaks showed up after it dried. Does anyone know what caused this? How do I get rid of them? I did apply soap from the bottom up. I did get a little loose applying it, mostly cause I just wanted to try out the x jet, and see what this baby could do.

    Is the side chalky? If so, you may just have dislodged some of the oxidized vinyl. Re-rinse with a fan tip and see if it creates a wide stripe. If so, re-do the whole wall.

    Also, If you've never rinsed with an x-jet before it could be plain old dirt. I have had stubborn dirt/grime that would tracer with an xjet and required a fan tip and 100% coverage rinsing. I could have gotten it clean with an x-jet but it would have taken awhile longer. Keep in mind that even though you can use an xjet to soap up a whole side in a few wide passes, you cannot rinse that way. You still need to side-to-side and top-to-bottom the whole wall or you can leave trails in the dirt.

    I hope that's all you are facing.


  10. I also run an online business, and can help you with this if you need. Check out my site at http://www.OdorDestroyer.com We are pretty well ranked.

    The google algorithym has gotten extrememely complex lately. But the #1 weighted item is text links to you containing the keywords you want to rank for. #2 is the keywords prevelence on your page (H1 trumps H5 or <B>). Add as many as you can but don't make the page unreadable by a human. The engines detect excessive keyword use and penalize for it.

    Meta tags are used by some engines, but not google. The description tag is used, but only if it contains the exact phrase searched for. Otherwise, Google takes a snipped from your page containing the phrase and uses it.

    Anyway, there are people who make careers of tracking the methods of the SE's. The best thing you can do is write lots of articles 700-1000 words long and using the keywords you want to rank for.


  11. Remember that you are getting the same GPM through the tip regardless of the orafice

    Are you certain about that? I understand that the pumps are positive displacement which supports your info. My schooling concurs as well.

    BUT, HydroTek prints right on their machine's control panel that a 8.0 tip uses 8gpm, a 6.0 used 25% less water, and a 4.0 uses half the water. They even label the 4.0 as a "water saving" nozzle.

    If you are correct, forget what I said about volume and kick. If the volume remains the same, reward force varies with exit velocity (i.e. nozzle pressure)


  12. A downstream injector is a venturi. A pressure drop greater on the outlet side than the inlet side is what causes chemical draw. Thats why a X-Jet draws under pressure because the pressure on the outlet side is less than the orifice pressure. That is also why two injectors in a row will not work, because you will only get a pressure drop on the outlet side of the last injector.

    I'm not sure that's 100% accurate. It may be the design of the injector and the xjet, but venturi's work the same regardless of drop across the interface.

    Also from what I hear in this forum, two injectors work fine.

    IIRC, if you disassemble the xjet you will see that the chem feed is prior to the reducing orifice. Hence, the pressure at the intake port is quite significant compared to what exits the nozzle. I would venture that it is at or very near line pressure.


  13. I just found a reliable source for 12.5% so I'm working now to adjust my mix. But, prior to this I was using regular 4.5% to 5% I bought at BJ's, Sam's or Walmart. The large 1.45 Gal size, use two (3 gal) of those to 5 gal. Now I believe I should be able to get the same results with 1.5 gal of 12.5%. No the tide doesn't kill the mold it's mainly for foaming for extra hang time. I'll look into Dollars brand of soap thanks.

    I'm using it for a foamer and an emulsifier also and have found NO difference from $9/gallon down to $1.50/gallon. Get as cheap as you can. One note about foam. Laundry soap is specifically designed not to foam. If that's your primary goal, dish soap would serve you better.


  14. My tank has 5 gallon markers going up the side of the drum. I eyeball my amounts using these increments.

    Ah. Not mine, I am using a pair of 15-20 gal blue tanks like seen above.

    Scott made a good point about venting the tank when using the xjet. I had another setup I used when doing roofs using the xjet and I left the lid secured on my 5 gallon bucket of chems after using it for a few minutes I turned around and the bucket was sucked in like a tin can.

    I am venting, but not for that reason. I assumed that when it pulled a vacuum the x-jet would stop drawing. I find it interesting that the XJ will flatten a bucket but not prime itself with a wand longer than 6ft.


  15. would we recommend someone that is not a member???? Who really cares.

    I may. If the PWNA is merely a PW trade association then, you are right. Non-members can offer comments, but should have no expectation that that will be followed or even given an audience. However, If the goals of the PWNA include establishing itself as the industry representative for legitimate power washing, then the PWNA has chosen to represent me. If one of the goals of the PWNA is to affect/lobby industry legislation (i.e. recovery, licensing, etc.), then the PWNA has chosen to represent me. And if the PWNA is actively representing me, then I have every right to expect that my opinions will be heard or that they will cease representing me.

    If the concern is that you will not be recommended by the PWNA then just join. IF not then stop worrying about whether the PWNA will recommend you or not.

    I agree. But what concerns me (and I believe others) is that non-members will be portrayed as illegitimate. And while insurance and licensing are generally indicators of a legitimate business, I'm not aware that sending a check to the PWNA offers any type of protection for prospective customers.

    Perhaps I'm a little bit skittish, but I am a member of two national orgs that have become so large and entrenched that they are now codified into law as the official arbiters of who may legally sell product and who may not. And for the past ten years there has been constant warfare about who got a brother-in-law approval and who got put out of business (de-licensed) because they PO'd a board member over a difference of opinion. Some of it is true, some false but all and all, it has been very destructive to everyone (members and non-members alike). It is so bad now that the national orgs are facing the potential of being stripped of their authority and the entire group (members and non) being regulated by the govt.

    Bottom line, if the goals of the PWNA include establishing itself as the industry representative for legitimate power washing, then I care a great deal.


  16. 1. How do you determine chem ratios with a pressurized x-jet?

    I did some very crude tests letting the shurflo empty a 5 gallon bucket (while running through the X-Jet). Three different times it emptied in about a minute and 45 seconds. That flow is about half of what my machine flows so i am assuming my ratio still stays at about 1:2 for the chems

    Thats what I was going to try as well. What GPM was the shurflow? Mine is 3.6 and calls for a 1/2" line. I'd have to reduce it to 3/8 for the xjet. But, since we are now charging that line instead of siphoning, could we not use 1/4" line? Much lighter, cheaper, and takes up even less space. IIRC the xjet originally shipped with 1/4 but had some issues with lift/priming.

    2. Hose tangle does not improve and may becomes worse.

    The poly braided hose likes to coil but I only pull off what I need. It's so lightweight it's never an issue.

    I was thinking of intertwining like a candy cane as the operator moves about. Not a problem during work (actually a benefit), but a PITA when it comes to rollup.

    3. Must carry 250ft handheld hose reel for x-jet hose.

    The hose reel stays at the truck, only the hose gets pulled around. Again, lugging a lightweight hose versus lugging a cart, chem tank and 50 ft of hose. I choose just the hose.

    Handheld was someone elses solution. I'm with you on the bucket. That's my #1 complaint with the XJ and the reason I'm inquiring about this setup and possible alternatives.

    Can I get a pic of your reel? Are you running chems through it? Perhaps this is an application where a cheap plastic garden hose reel is superior to an industrial hose reel. I like the idea of two hoses paying out simultaneously through a common hose guide.

    4. Chems pour our nozzle if you forget to close the chem valve.

    The chemicals will pour out of any hose unless you close off the valve, including an unpressurized X-Jet. I think most of us have found that out the hard way.

    True. But that is a habit I broke in about 2 weeks (and 5 wasted buckets).

    You'll know your flow is still on when you shut-off your gun because the chemicals shoot 4-6 feet from the wand.

    Excellent point.

    Ok, one more devils advocate question. Suppose I have the chem hose tie wrapped to the gun. I change lances from 3ft, to 6ft, to 12ft frequently. How do you set that up so it does not become a huge PITA. One of my pet peeves already is a valve 36" from the XJ on the end of a 12ft lance....


  17. IF there is no PWNA member in an area you wouldn't EDUCATE that person(someone seeking pressure washing) on the best way to find a legit company.

    I don't have a dog in this fight, but I will offer that I agree with this statement. If there is no member in a given area, it is much better for us all to send the customer back to the yellow pages armed with some pertinent decision making criteria so they don't get taken by a fly-by-nighter. When customers get screwed we all look bad. And a national org representing XYZ trade should prevent that above all.

    IMHO, the decision tree should fall as follows.

    1. Help a customer, benefit a member.

    2. Help a customer, benefit a non-member.

    3. Help a customer, no benefit to anyone.

    4. Help a customer, negative benefit to member.

    5. Help a customer, negative benefit to non-member.

    6. Offer no help.

    And by negative benefit, I mean something like this "Here's the info you need to select a contractor. We are aware of A, B, & C contractors who are reported to be reputable, but do not meet our stringent criteria of X, Y, or Z" There are some who would argue that you should never recommend a contractor who does not meet all criteria, but a contractor who has been around in the same town 10 years and and is known for good work is a far better recommendation than letting the prospective customer throw darts at the yellow pages.

    What I am hearing as the preferred MO is this:

    1. Help a customer, benefit a member.

    2. Offer no help.

    That's not a policy that will ever get PWNA recognized by the consumer as an authoritative body, much less ever allow it to be recognized as the "UL seal of approval" for pressure washing. With that policy, the PWNA will never be seen as anything by an obscure trade organization.

    Philip

    P.S. Before someone starts publishing volumes about the PWNA's liability from making recommendations, I'd suggest that you spend a few days away from the lawyers, let the paranoia subside, and do some research. Yes, it is *possible* that a liability *can* result from a referral. But it's not probable. There are thousands of organizations that make contractor referrals every day without fear of culpablity. Most notably is Home Depot and Lowes. Second to mind is nearly every paint store, ace hardware, etc. in America. Third is every university in the country who refers service requests out to it's alumni.


  18. Henry,

    We did the hose reel on the cart.It's not worth the trouble to be very honest.Like Lance(CCPC) said it's just as easy to wrap the hose around the cart.

    Don't forget you'll need a vent hole to keep the Xjet from sucking the sides of your tank in.

    http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1973&highlight=xjet+cart

    I also tried the reel mounted over the tank.We just didn't like it...something else in the way when you were done with a job.

    Just like mine, but I noticed that you used a QC on the xjet line. I haven't had much success with QC's on suction lines. Did you do anything special?

    Also, what's the max tube length for an X-jet draw line.

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