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GAPainter

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Posts posted by GAPainter

  2. Posted · Report reply

    The siding was painted(grey color) hardie board. The windows were actually fairly clean once done not to mention she called in a window cleaner afterwards. She said she just did that out of habit. She also added her driveway , sidewalks and exterior tile floors. The concrete is sealed and I really havent messed with flat work. Any advice for the concrete (tire marks and Pine needle stains) and the tile floor? I'll add pics this eveing.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    I washed a house for a customer last saturday. It was not very dirty so I used a weak solution of 1.5 gallons 6%, 10oz simple cherry, 4 0z F13, meguiars car wash(mistake?) and a splash of dawn mixed in a 5er. When I got to almost the last side of the house, I soaped it down. It started thundering, lightning and raining. I was rushing to get it rinsed down so I could get out of the lightning. I went back yesterday and now there is a white residue in patches on that side of the house? I would guess I didn't rinse well enough.

    What can I do to remove this? At this point, she has had her windows cleaned sincde I left. She hasn't noticed it or atleast said anything. Will rewashing that side and brushing remove it, or am I painting that side of the house?

    I should mention I applied with and M5. Thank You for the advice.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    The black tip is NOT 0040, its usually 6540 or so. A 0040 is literally a large-bore zero degree tip. I buy air chucks with male threads and insert into 1/4" male quick connects with female threads. 150' should be no problem.

    I realize that the black tip is not an 0040. I bought an 0040 from PT. My apologies if I made it sound as if I thought they were the same.

    Cajun,

    The washer was not surging and I did check the direction of the arrows. The arrows were right. I came home and searched to make sure it wasn't something stupid(which I guess it still could be) before I posted about it. I will try a different gun and probably shorten my draw hose.

    Thanks again for your input guys.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    I have a 12 gpm gun in my shopping cart, just waiting to decide if I want to order other items before I send payment. I just bought an m5 xjet and now I am already looking to order again. any recommendations on a dual lance?

    Running that much hose I would have probably went with the 2-3 gpm injector especially with a 4 gpm machine. I have a 5.5 machine and run the 2-3 injector. Have for right about a year now.

    I had searched and saw where that could be an answer to my problem. I suppose they are cheap enough to just try it out? Out of curiosity, how long should my downstream injector hose be? I think I probably had to long of a hose.

    I appreciate all of the advice and will now try them out. I certainly hope to get a handle on downstreaming over the xjet. The x jet did work very well, just not the route I want to take most of the time.

    I have a 7500 sqft house with 3 decks coming up. Last time I did this house was with ladders and a pump up. It took me 10 hours with a helper. I am so ready to not go that route anymore. I also have a 9000sqft house to price. The market that I am trying to work in is pretty much houses of this size so I really need to come up with a better system. I underpriced this house last year. I guess I will do it for about the same with a small markup and hopefully it will go alot faster. I know it will bc I will use the xjet and a lot of chemicals before I use a pumpup sprayer again if I don't have the downstreaming down by then

  9. Posted · Report reply

    I bought a high draw chem injector from pressure tek rated for 3-5gpm a month or so ago. I tried it out about 2 weeks ago with not much success. I was running 150ft of hose on a 13hp 3800 psi 4 gpm machine(direct drive). I got it to draw if i turned down the pressure all the way(which is about what you are supposed to do?). I tried using a 0040 tip, black chem tip. Even with the 0040 tip i would only shoot maybe 10-15 ft.

    I decided to buy an m5 xjet(which I did). I used it yesterday and I thought it was a real PITA. The hose kept coming out of the bucket, having to move the bucket LOTS of chem and remixing. I do realize I could mix more at a time, put on a cart, and fix it to where the hose won't come out of the bucket. It did do a good job cleaning and I much prefer it to ladders and a pumpup.

    I would like to give the downstreaming another shot and maybe even another shot after that instead of hauling buckets Do any of you have any advice as to what the problem might be or if I just need to do something different?

    Any suggestions are much appreciated.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Sorry to be critical of your method but until the wash is complete, splash-back from it will undo any neutralizing. Wash first, then neutralize.

    Leaving any active product on the surface will lead to premature failure which on Ipe is short enough without the help of any chemical left in the substrate.

    .02

    Rod!~

    I am not offended in the slightest. I am here to learn and appreciate every piece of information that I can gather. I would be interested to know what you are using on Ipe this year. I am not sure if that is not something you like to talk about?

    Thanks,

    keith

  14. Posted · Report reply

    What are you masking? Honestly, once water is applied during the wash it will be all over the place.

    Pump ups are not that bad, used em for years before switching to powered pump units. 2 gallon and 3 gallon sprayers will help get the job done.

    Apply HD-80 @ 3oz/gal and allow to dwell 15 minutes or until the wood turns uniformly black or close to it. Wash, and then neutralize as usual.

    Rod!~

    I figured I would need to do something with the bottoms of the rails where it mounts to the decking. Is it really not necessary? I plan on having 3 pump ups. Two pump ups for stripper(myself and a helper) and one for citralic to start behind me while I am washing.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Here is why we would be so quick on this deck. I'm not advocating either stripper or percarb, that choices is yours.

    Truck would roll in. Customers are told in advance to have everything off of the deck and have water on.

    - Crew leader would check the deck and make contact with customer. Helper would be rolling out supply and pressure lines.

    - Helper waters down plants and wets windows and siding.

    - Drop downstream tube into stripper tank.

    - As fast as the crew leader can move his arms with a dual lance, deck stripper is applied. I have found Penofin to come up very easily. That finish is shot so I would expect no issues. In addition there are no rails that have to be stripped.

    - Within a ten minute dwell (about as long as it would take to coat the deck and then rewet all surrounding plant life) the deck would be washed with 800 psi leaving the nozzle. 60 degree spread. 20 minutes done end to end.

    - While one guy is rinsing down all soap residue, the downstreamer is moved to a plain water bucket and run clean. Its then dropped into the acidic cleaner.

    - Dual lance is again opened and acid is applied via downstream. While this is happening, crew leader is picking up 50% project cost check from homeowner.

    - Deck and surrounding property are given a final and thorough rinse.

    Both guys reel hoses and out they go.

    I can see why it is so fast with the proper equipment and systems in place. I have never downstreamed but would love to learn how to. I bought an injector from Bob @ PT, but have not used it yet. I would have to learn about ratios and such. I did discuss with Scott about the injectable stripper( powersolve). I think I read somewhere you were dsing hd80?

    I take it you would not mask anything off on the rails or around the painted band on the outside of the porch? (maybe that is wasted time?) Is a helper just rinsing off Painted surfaces like that or is a 10 minute dwell not long enuff to hurt it.I guess with proper control you could keep most all of it from even getting on the band. It is a brick home so not to worried about that.

    I definitely need to learn to DS or get something like a decker to apply. I won't be able to make money if I am constantly refilling a pump up. Do you sand Ipe. I am planning on sanding both decks with 60 grit(a quick once over hopefully). Do you still use wood tux or woodzotic on Ipe if you aren't against saying.

    thanks,

    Keith

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Just out of curiosity how fast could some of you strip and brighten the 730 sqft of Ipe? about half of it is the back deck , 2nd story with no access. The other half starts out at ground level with two steps and the back section is 2 stories up.

    There are plants and/or grass around both decks. Thanks for any comments.

    I imagine most of you will say a couple hours if that. I will be using a pump up for stripper and citralic (if I get the job).

    thanks again!

    Keith

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Rick, you think the AC will hold up better than Ready Seal? I am looking for something new to use on Ipe. I have been using penofin and am defenitely looking for something different. I looked at about 800 sqft of Ipe the other day and she didn't know what was on it. I am looking for something to try on Ipe that will last longer than penofin. Also what type of coverage are you getting on Ipe with Ready Seal and AC ? thanks

  22. Posted · Report reply

    I went and looked at 2 Ipe decks for a lady today. She didn't know what was on it. She just said it was a Clear coat. She washed it last year with a pressure washer and did a number on it. I have done mainly new construction before besides a couple decks that I have been doing yearly with penofin and using wolman's deckbrite to clean it up. I am trying to get more into the "restoration" side and therefore looking to use more useful chemicals. I bought some hd80 and citralic but have not used it yet. My question is this. will EFC 38 be good enough get this deck ready for staining or should I use the HD80? Also I read that it may be better to use the oxalic instead of citralic on ipe?

    There is about 730 total sqft of ipe. What sealer would you recommend for the easiest maintenance on ipe? AC, Ready Seal, or other? I have always used Penofin on Ipe and it really isn't worth the container it is in. I have some AC coming shortly to try out and am very looking forward to trying it.

    Any thoughts on which would be the best chemicals to use and thoughts on sealer with ease of maintenance in mind? Ty in advance for any advice you can suggest.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    I dont have any direct expirience with F&P, but knowing the product background I would assume it would be easier than other Wolman products to remove.

    More power to you on the lead and hopefully getting the job, but I can't see anything in those pics that would make me want to remove it and reseal if it were my home.

    Just my $0.02

    The rail caps have some splitting going on especially in the radius and no protection left. IMO wolman's F&P is crap. He was looking for something with a little more protection, so I suggested Armstrong Clark. He wants to use it on the rails and see how he likes it and maybe do the whole house. It really does need a recoat. You really can't tell from the pic but the house has almost 0 shade except for what the overhangs give. It is in the middle of a field getting beat on by the weather.[ATTACH]11796[/ATTACH]

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  25. Posted · Report reply

    Yea that house would be Phat as all get out for some "after" pics for an Armstrong Clark ad. Slate decking?,,,,get out!!!! I think I would have hit that for more than 600.00..Their going to spend 6K on the new floor. With less work probably. (guessing) I call dibs on the basment!!

    I haven't submitted the bid yet actually. I am going to be higher than that. He has a well house that he wants me to do also(never had stain,freshly built). I am probably going to be up around $1200 with the rails and the well house.

    The slate is being removed.Most likely(99% he said) will be replaced with ceramic that looks like slate. There is water getting under the slate so it all has to come up. Would be nice if I didn't have to cover it at all and just mask from the band down and the cedar shake roof on both sides of the porch. 1% chance of it not being removed is enough for me to cover it up.

    It would make for an excellent portfolio pic. At this time I think it may be a little above my skill level due to the stripping. I have only dealt with stripper 2x before on a small scale, so I am a bit intimidated by the process. I would just hate to bite off more than I can chew in the beginning.

    Anybody have any thoughts on how long it would take you to do the rails from start to finish? I will be using a pump sprayer for this.

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