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Paul-uk, I completely agree, I have not yet received the product with HF in it (Prosoco's 1261 Hard Water Deposit remover), I did think of trying a different chemical, Wal-Mart sells a product called Kaboom, and that does seem to be having an effect. It seems the stains are white scum or Hard Water deposits, and something in Kaboom is working. I looked up the MSD for Kaboom, and the only active ingreediant listed is Urea Monohydrochoride. I don't know if that is the chemical responsible for removing the white scum, but something like Kaboom but a little stronger, I feel will remove it, and keep me from having to learn how to use HF, which I really do not want to even have in my chemical collection.

RyanH, Thanks for the good advise, Prosoco is sending me some chemical samples to try, I looked up in the MSD's for them and one contains HF, so time to buy some heavy duty safty gear and learn how to work with this stuff. Here is a question, I can buy HF from a local trailer mfg, in 5 gal pails. Now, what would be the best way to pour this stuff from a 5 gal container into one that is smaller and more easily worked with. I am a good poured, but a full 5 gal container, that is a different matter. Lots harder to control.

How deadly is HF on plants, as you can see from the photo, it will be next to impossible to reclaim the water from these stains. The building has a grassy hill leading up to the brick. Is HF worse than other acids, once it is diluted and in the ground?

Thanks Paul, I tracked down the mfg of the brick, and they recomended a chemical from Prosoco called Sure Klean, I am going to try it in a little bit. Thanks for the tip about not hitting the brick head on. I know I should never do that, but sometimes I forget, lol. I get caught up in the moment from time to time.

Thanks Jason, I read on the BIA's site to mix ammonium biflouride with the oxalic to make HF, yet HF still worries me, and I can't secure it in small amounts. Does anyone know if ammonium biflouride is readily available? I think my problem may also be I am not saturating the surface well enough before applying the acids, thus I am bringing more to the surface when the rinse water is evaporating.

I went back to take a photo, but after the muriatic acid, and lots of rinsing, there is no change. The only thing I can think of is that the salts are in the brick and just keep comming out. This building has never been washer, except for rain, and years of salt could just be comming out. How can I fix this.

Ok, I tried the oxalic acid first, I like that acid, anyway it seemed to disolve the efflorescence, but when I returned, it more or less just spread it out more evenly. Maybe I didn't rinse well enough I used a pump up sprayer to apply, then used a different pump up srayer with warm water to rinse, please see the photo. Anyway, I returned and applied muriatic acid, and followed with a heavy rinse from the p/washer, will upload the photos from that one after I take them, which with the rainy weather could take a little while for the brick to dry. Any ideas or hints would be helpful and I would be most thankfull.

I have a job brightening concrete, I used oxalic acid and did an ok job, but the owner had a chemical she borrowed from her brother "dairy farmer" that she spilled a little on the concrete, and turned it white, like freshly poured concrete. I failed to ask what it was, any ideas what it could be that she spilled, and no it is not paint, lol. I think she said it was an acid.

I bought some muratic acid, and poured in on a piece of concrete at home and it turned yellow, mind you that was at full strength. I went down to see if I could find out what she had, and she brough it out in a glass marshmellow fluff container that her bother had given here. Here was the situation, the glass container was in a plastic bag, and she walks out swinging the bag from side to side. She did not know what was in it, but she poured some on some aluminum around her windows and it cleaned that real nice, but some spilled onto the concrete and whitened it up real nicely. She called her brother, and I spoke with him on the phone, he told me where he picked up at in a five gal container, but did not know the active ingredient. It was called Nu Bright. I went down to the trailer sales department, and they pulled a container, because they did not know what was in it. Sulfiric acid and Hydrofloric acid, it was supposed to be diluted 1 to 40. I called the lady back, and told her I wouldn't be swinging that around like that if I was her, and gave he the information and stories that I have read about Hydrofloric acid, bad stuff. Anything work like Hydrofloric Acid, but not so dangerous?

Is muratic hard on the life of the concrete, I have read that even short dwell times can cause the concrete to degrade faster.

Anyone have some good links to learn how to figure ratios or percentages. I see them mentioned often, and would like to learn, to save money. Thanks.

Yes, thank you Paul

What is something I can add to my mix either ordered or locally that will be a corrosion inhibitor, or help prevent oxidation? It would be great for something in my house wash, or even applied after.

For removing rust off vinyl siding, how much oxalic acid would you mix with 5 gal of water? How about steel siding? I was told on steel siding with rust that the best thing to do is sand blast to metal, and within 30 min repaint. What go you guys and gals use as a corrosion inhibitor?

My guess is that they are not so much as cleaning as they are testing for loose tiles. Like Alan said, one re-entry the shuttle goes from a lack of any pressure to high pressure, and if one falls off, not good. Blast them with high pressure water to see if they can handle the strain, then roll it onto the launch pad.

I am in the process of designing my first larger scale setup and would like ideas. Post your trailer or rig pics if you will. Thanks!

How do you stop chlorine from being active, just keep adding water, or is there something else. Do your homes smell of chlorine when you are done cleaning?

I don't think that this is mold, I could be wrong, but on brick it seems to be black, but on siding it is yellowish in color. I guess could be rust, does chlorien in the local water stain? It seems that all of this is where sprinkler systems hit the houses in the area. Attached are some examples.

Sorry I haven't gotten back on this one till now. I stopped by the other day and gave it a rub. It appears to come off almost like eraser rubber. I think it is caused by rain water splashing up off the tar/sealer then sticking to the brick. Should come off with pressure and heat I would imagine.

I was talking to the city water authority and they said the only things that can not go down the storm system were oil, sand, salt, chlorine and a few others. My question is how to deal with the chlorine run off, that neutralizes this chemical. The city official said we can use oil absorbing booms or drain filters, but I don’t see if they stop the chlorine.

Thanks, anyone using a box van, or enclosed trailer, just looking for ideas.

I will stop by this afternoon and get a better discription of the black stuff on the bricks and post.

Does anyone haul the equipment just on a flat bed, or does everyone use an enclosed trailer?

Thanks Paul, Those photos helped alot, and the chems.

I have read that not much will take off rust, or since it is on Vinyl siding will it come off, but not on brick?