troyt

I am thinking about doing gutter cleaning with a pressure washer. I have in the past just hand cleaned them. I don't understand how you do not make a mess of the whole house with a pressure washer. What I mean is the material in the gutter, what do you guys and gals do? What psi do you run? I was thinking around 500psi, but that is still going to throw leaves onto the side of the house and on the roof. I really enjoy your pressure wash industry banter, and way this is my first post. Nice to meet all of you.

What is the best way to put stain on the spindles of a deck, any quick tricks to this process?

What size braided hose are you using to your wand?

Also, now that I am looking at the shurflo, I have noticed some choices, do I want on demand? or just by pass. I also find one that has an on/off switch mounted on the pump itself, with an adjustible pressure switch which shuts the pump off once it reaches pressure. Help me make a decison, what would you go with, or what do you have. Thanks.

Too funny tropical.. I just figured out the t-jet name today, lol. I saw the packaging, yellow with TeeJet. Now what degree tip are you using, I see a lot of 80 and 73 degree, but the only place I am finding them are at Runnings Fleet Farm, are there other degree tips?

What is the best all around pump, looks like a lot of you are using the 1.8gpm @ 60 psi. Also, can ox acid also be pumped with the shurflo? What does small T mean with a jet tip? And one last quesiton, should I go with more braided hose or a mobile truck to haul the pump and fluids around with a shorter hose to the wand from the pump?

What shurflo should I be looking for? What are their limitations on what can be pump through them? Now you have me excited, lol. More equipment, I love it.

Is there a lot of waste in overspray, or is there a big enough time savings it doesn't make that much of a difference? Thanks.

I inheritied an electric powered Alkota pressure washer and would like to convert the pump to run on a gas engine. I once saw a conversion chart, but I can not find it anymore. Anyone seen one around?

Here is a link to the Alkota model I am talking about if that will help. http://www.alkota.com/products/showProduct.asp?CategoryID=192&ProductID=3102also rap this around your brain if you are willing to think about it. Is it possible to turn this in to a horizontal hot box,, or would it be cheaper to buy a new one instead, lol.

Thanks for the help here is the information. motor pulley diameter(3"), pump pulley diameter(10 1/4"), motor hp(8HP), and pump model(TS1511). Now is there also a way to remove the need for the K7 unloader with the use of a gas engine? And will I be able to keep the HotBox in the new design. This Alkota is a nice setup, needs some cleaning of the coils, but is almost useless for me in a mobile operation simpley for the fact that it requires a 220 connection. I have a 16hp gas engine that I can put on this systme, of course I will have to build a new frame. The reason I want to get rid of the K7 is because I don't understand it. When I received the Alkota it was missing the unloader. I ordered one, installed it, and had troubles. The K7 kept cycling over and over, non-stop. Some people on the board helped me find the fix to that problem there was a nozzle missing on the bypass outlet (easily figured out by compressing the bypass hose), I insertet the nozzle, fired up the Alkota, and quickly blew one of the o-rings between the Valve housing and the piston housing. So far I have not replaced this o-ring to figure out the problem, and from what everyone says on this board the K7 is a real treat to work with, not much motivation, lol.

I have an alkota pw that I inherited with a purchase on ebay. It was a fix me up, basically came with everything but the unloader. I ordered a K-7 unloader and installed according to the alkota specifications, and now I have a problem that I am not sure of what is causing it. Basically when the trigger is not pulled, the K-7 unloader cycles repeatedly. It is going into bypass mode, then it seems like the uloader builds pressure, and goes back into bypass mode. I don't have any leaks, nor is the gun weeping, so I do not understand where the excess pressure is going. Any thoughts as to what could be causing this problem. When the trigger is pulled, the problem of course goes away, it is only when the unloader is in bypass mode, and not all the time. It may do it for 5 trigger pulls then on the sixth after the trigger is released not have the problem. But pull the trigger again and let go, and it starts up again.

Quick question, Ok the K7 I have is the K7.1 version. Now I am trying to figure out the specific nipple size I need, because this is supposed to be the correct unloader. How can I figure my gpm if I know I have 3000 psi, and a 8hp electric motor? Is there a mathmatical tool for this?

That has seemed to take care of the problem with the K-7, thanks for all your help Rod and Celeste!

What is a barb? And which hose on the unloader did you squeeze?

In my neck of the world the pw season is comming close to an end. I need something to do in the winter months. I was thinking about a blind cleaning service. Has anyone tried this before, or know anything about equipment and pricing?

I am thinking about starting a Staging Business on the side. The building, buying and selling of homes in the area is exploding. I have a friend that is a very good decorator, and I could cross sell some other services, might just keep me busy.

That is something that is on my mind also.

fire extinguishers are well covered in my area, keep up the ideas:)

Most of the fall gets real cold, and fast. The end of october and everything pretty much freezes up till March or April. This and not much snow or ice, so gutters are not a real big thing, thanks for the ideas. I was also thinking outdoor holiday decorating, putting up xmass lights and stuff like that.

I have seen the ultrasonic dipping machines, are they necessary. I think I will ask around an see if this is needed, and limit the blinds I clean to ones that can be cleaned using low pressure or compressed air. Thanks everyone for the feed back.

Yes it is a macromedia flash file, with a javascript call to "shake the browser". Pretty easy actually, since flash lets you since mpg files to actions. Funny

I have a brick building to clean, it has efflorescence comming from the sprinkeler system, under the efflorescence is rust, comming from the same system. Should I treat them as one stain, or each individually. What I mean is should I use diluted muriatic acid then follow with oxalic for the rust, or will one take care of both?

I just received the Prosoco chemical samples. One is just strong HCL, the other HF. The packaging to the HF is enough to scare the crap out of me. The HF came in two cardboard boxes, inside of those a metal sealed container, inside of that container "which is cardboard padded" a plastic bag, with chemical absorbent cloth wraping the chemical bottle. WOW, I think I will just keep it all sealed and move on to the next project. BTW, anyone have problems with rust reforming on brick or cement after oxalic acid has been used. It seems to eat the rust, but after a couple of days is righ back, just looks smeared. I am not having much luck with this project, could be they keep watering with the dirty water, and I am back to square one again. Thanks for the information Ryan, it will come in handy in the future.

Ok, Newbe here, I know what MSD's are but TLV and TWA, what are they?